Long Term temp electric fence

We are buying a home with 8 acres. Dream coming true finally! I had the aerial of the property printed to scale and laminated. I’ve been drawing and redrawing layouts that make sense longterm, the goal is to add all the fencing over the years to come. My plan is to quick electric fence in about 1 acre in June with a run in so my horse can come home. I don’t want to do anything too permanent, as whatever I do quickly most likely be the long term layout, but I need it to be strong enough to stay until next summer most likely.

I;ve been looking at the Timeless fence posts, wondering if they are easy enough to remove/ move around if I wanted to change the shape of the pasture at some point for grazing? I am not sure step in posts are a good solution for the long term, although I may do that for expanded grazing during the day.

Eventually I will most likely do the Ramm flex fence, but until i am sure of my long term layout, I hesitate to do anything too permanent.

I don’t think they’re here, but Summerhill Farm in Texas has installed the Timeless posts if you want to ask how it’s going.

Horseguard tape. For $510 you can run 820 linear feet of 2 strands. You do still need a solid post at corners. There’s also a 1640’ “paddock kit” using the bipolar tape

I have the 320’ 2-strand Temporary Fence Kit and have used it several times with the fiberglass posts, from separating a weanling from his mom, to sectioning off rehab pasture area a few times.
Ready to Install Kits (horseguardfence.com)

It looks like with the Timeless posts you need electric wire, and I’m just not a fan of any high tensile wire with horses.

What kind of T-posts do you like with the Horseguard? I really like what I’m reading about it.

None LOL I hate T-posts. If you must use them, get the full sleeve and cap. It’s going to end up being about the same $ as a wood post (last I knew) but it’s still moveable.

I use their fiberglass posts for temp fencing. That’s not without risks, if a horse comes down on top of it. But to me it’s less of a risk

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These are great. They are super tall, and I have been using mine for cross fencing, and various medium size paddocks for many years. Being tall has its advantages, you can prevent horses playing over the top of the fence, which is often what leads to altercations. You can also make a 6 foot aisle between paddocks, and that all but eliminates horse/fence interactions.

My feeling is that these are actually safer than T posts. They do (bend). While it is possible for Horse to smack one in half and hurt themselves, that’s never happened to me…generally what happens is they just get pushed or pulled over if a horse gets a leg through the tape…In the four years that I’ve been using them I’ve had about three tape entanglements, resulting in zero injuries. And the posts either stayed put, got ripped out, or pushed over.

I won’t use the fiberglass temporary posts. When they get roughed up they break in half and splinter. Especially if they’ve been out in the weather for a few years. Plus they’re much more likely to impale horse because they’re short, and very small diameter. I got rid of all of mine
A key to success is to have an extremely strong and consistent electric current at all times.

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Ok, I am torn. I am looking into the wood fence posts, they are $10 at menards right now for the 3/4" 7’ posts. I’ve read some comments where people have trouble with the wood rotting out after a few years. I’m also looking at the tpost sleeves that Horse Guard has, and I like the look of those as well, definately pricier than the wood. Almost double by the time you add the tpost and sleeve cost up. How hard are wood posts to pull vs the tposts if want to change the layout next summer, or even this fall? I need a strong setup for a year until I figure out a final configuration, but I also want to be able to tweak the enclosure as I go.

Does anyone here have personal experience with the Horse Guard tpost sleeves?

And for corners, I plan to do 6" or 8" wood posts for those. Ideally I know they should be set in concrete, but if properly braced, does the bracing replace the need to set in concrete?

Back when we put in our Horse Guard cross-fencing, we purchased those. Didn’t like them as much as we thought we would – they were fiddly to deal with, IMO, and didn’t seem worth the money, so we returned them. Went with T-posts with toppers bought at TSC, which have worked perfectly for over 20 years.

Everything else from HG, we’ve been very happy with. Our fencing has held up great, although we now have to replace the occasional insulator due to age. Easy to maintain, still looks good, especially as compared to a friend’s fencing which was done with a competitor tape that hasn’t worn nearly as well.

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That likely depends on where you live - the soil, and the amount of moisture.

Our posts were pounded into red clay, and have been standing for 19 years.

don’t forget the cost or time to put in wood posts.

If you put wood posts in properly, they will be a beech to pull out

HG tape is hand-tensioned, so no bracing needed. Bracing would be needed if you’re going to hang a gate.

Concrete is only required if the soil warrants it. As mentioned above, our posts are pounded in, including the 6" corner posts, and the 8" gate (hinge side) posts. The hinge-side posts ARE braced.

No concrete here, but again, they were pounded into red clay. If you drill, or have softer soil, that’s different.

the soil is pretty standard midwestern clay. If we went with the wood posts, I’d look at renting a gas powered post driver, which I know will add to the cost, and being completely inexperienced with one, I’m sure there will be a learning curve and much swearing. For this first paddock, I’m really leaning towards the tposts with sleeves.

what are the favorite sleeves?

I wouldn’t want to be moving pounded-into-clay posts more than once, and you’ll need equipment to do it (like a tractor with a bucket or other lift, and wrap a chain around the post.

I have the HG t-post sleeves and have used them for my cross fencing for about 15 years. I didn’t find them particularly “fiddly” to deal with, but I have no experience with other brands to compare to. They have held up well with only a couple I’ve had to replace due to a wayward mower (me) and a dumbass warmblood that got caught up in the HG tape and pulled a whole line of fencing down, including breaking one cover. Even then, just had to replace the broken segments since they are 12" pieces that interlock.

Because my HG is cross fencing within the “good” Centaur perimeter fencing, my ends are on concreted wood posts. You do have to tension the HG and I’m not sure unbraced, unconcreted posts will hold up to that. Where we needed end posts that weren’t part of the Centaur perimeter, we still set the wood post in concrete. But I’m also in a wet part of the world where just pounding posts wasn’t really considered an option.

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None of my corner posts are braced or in concrete, and they are in the same place they were pounded in 19 years ago :slight_smile: They ARE 6" posts, so not tiny line posts, which makes a difference

The soil and weather conditions are the biggest player in whether corners need to be concreted or braced, and whether gate posts need to be concreted or just braced.


I have not had good luck with these posts and I really was hopeful for them - so hopeful that I bought them a 2nd time when half broke within a few months the first try. And then half of those broke too. :laughing: Fool me once, shame on you, fool me twice: I put in a new line of split rail.

We are not in a particularly windy area compared to some parts of the country but that’s when many broke for me (windy days). If you are in a windy area, I would think throwing your $ out the window would be a better story than buying these posts.

Weird! I’ve had mine for four years, in a super windy place. No, I did not get them from this company. This is the style of the post I have. Sounds like they are not the same make!

I agree. We don’t have our electric fence corner or gate posts concreted or braced here, either. It’s hard driving a corner or gate post in our soil, and they stay in.

Having said that, none of our electric cross-fencing is completely free-standing - an end or two terminates at permanent fence or structure, to cut down on the number of non-concreted/braced corner/gate posts. We put gates adjacent to permanent fence or structures where possible.

Same. I planned for eventually cross-fencing my pasture, so where I figured I would, I have corner posts put in along the lines. I haven’t used some of the cross fencing, and none of what I considered was ever permanent, but I’ve used some of it temporarily, with electric tape gate handles.

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I love my HG tape. I’ve taken it down and reused the many times. It still works perfectly and looks good (I have the brown). Some of this tape must be going on 20 years old.

The T-post covers I don’t love for a couple of reasons.

  1. If your T-post shifts out of position for any reason you must remove the cover, or most of it to pull and re-pound the post.
  2. I couldn’t get the covers off easily without damaging them and making it very hard to use them again. Most I couldn’t use again. I still have a few damaged covers lying around.

T-post are not terribly uniform, I believe the HG t-post cover components adjust to fit the first post and won’t work on a different post.

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When I bought my place 10 years ago I put in cedar fence posts and electric rope to make a 2 acre paddock. Ever since then the remaining 4 acres has been fenced using 5 foot tall step-in posts and electric tape. I love that it has allowed me to easily move the fencing as my needs change based on season, number of horses, etc. and it is so low maintenance. I have learned to use zip ties to secure the tape to the step in posts because strong winds tend to pull the tape out of the keepers. Corner and end posts are wooden stakes in buckets of concrete (which is ugly but keeps the fence tight). There’s one horse who occasionally looses his mind and blasts through internal fencing when there’s a new set up. Now I’m sure to make fencing changes early in the morning and walk him around it so he has all day to figure it out. I’ve never had a problem with the horses challenging the perimeter fencing.

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