Looking for exercises to teaching a horse to go long and low

I’m sure many have seen my previous posts about my OTTB that I recently (5 months ago) purchased. We’ve been battling various things…snake bite, sore back, stepped on clip, etc. But we are 100% and going well now. He’s really using himself well through his back but thats where it seems to stop. I can get him to stretch down, where his nose is touching the ground at all gaits. Not consistently but he willingly does it.

So we are working on the low and he is understanding it. The part that I would love to hear about exercises would be the long part. We want to get him to move through his back and poke his nose out a bit going low, where he usually curls a bit with his head creating that “fake” on the bit.

What do you do to help with this? He is a quick study, gets frustrated easily, but wants to do right. Last night we were able to get him to do it a bit, by having a bit looser rein and pushing him into it, but any other tips of the trade?

I would post this in the Dressage section. I am positive you can find some great exercises there for getting a horse to stretch. :slight_smile:

Are you doing any work on the lunge line? I’ve got an OTTB too, off the track since July. When teaching long and low, I always find it works best to start on the lunge, with a surcingle and side reins (preferably the donut ones, as they last longer and create a steadier contact than the elastic).

I start with them fairly loose just so the horse gets used to having them there, and over the course of a few days/weeks (depends on the horse), shorten them. You never want to go too short so their constantly pulling. You just want a light contact. Side reins will be steadier than your hands. If he pulls or shakes his head or takes a misstep, he won’t catch himself in the mouth the way a rider’s hands might.

Praise and reward him when he starts to stretch out. And remember this isn’t so much about head set (which will come in time) as engagement from behind and through the back. If you’re consistent with the work on the ground, you should have an easier time encouraging the stretch under saddle. And when you do ask for long and low, it comes from the leg, not your hand.

OTTBs are often sensitive to the leg. Some can take a little time learning that pressure from the leg can mean something more than Go!. So the first thing I always work on with my TBs is leg yielding. Just at the walk. And then I start to ask for a few steps of shoulders in or haunches in. Done correctly, this will engage their hind end, teach them to think laterally, and also be kind of difficult. So when you get a few steps of that lateral action, you can straighten and often find them willing to stretch out for a step or two.

Lastly, this is all new to them, so remember not to ask too much too fast. A step or two of long and low is enough at this stage. Praise and reward him when he gets it, and don’t get frustrated if his head comes up or his back hollows out a moment later. It’s all about baby steps.

I’ve done a ton of lunging with him. We had to do it for rehab to get his back strengthened. He’s a bit burned out on the lunging so trying to stay away. I could always get him to be in more of a correct frame but he rarely went long and low. He doesn’t do well with just side reins, he knows he can move with his head up, but I have a pair of ultimate side reins that I can clip to his surcingle and then through his legs that he responds well with, but again just doesn’t reach out. He is very hard to get to track up on the lunge as well, no problem under tack.

But its been about a month since I used them, so maybe he’ll be open to them again :slight_smile:

I’m totally going to second cross posting to the dressage section. When I started taking dressage lessons as a hunter rider, I really discovered that dressage isn’t just putting the horses head ‘on the bit’.

And the reason I started dressage lessons is because I have what was the most inverted OTTB in the world - bit of an exaggeration, but you get the idea. Now we’ve begun truly moving from behind and he reaches (not leans) for the contact.

My horse just had a clinic with a huge muckety-muck from Germany (cannot spell or pronounce his name) who said to put your hands on the buckle and just trot, around the ring, across the ring and in huge circles.

DO NOT PICK UP THE REINS.

Your horse does not want to go long and low because he does not have the balance for it, nor is he used to lifting his back. Your horse will not stretch right away – it is foreign to him. Gradually, as he feels comfortable with this balance he will lower his head.

You need to post very softly so he wants to lift his back. And you must not pick up the reins for any reason; if he canters, slowly bring him back with weight, voice and circling. If you use your reins, you are right back where you started – with him tensing up and being defensive.

If you think it is counter intuitive, just think how hard it was for a DQ to let go and not pick up the reins to balance the horse! :slight_smile:

[QUOTE=Lord Helpus;8897262]
My horse just had a clinic with a huge muckety-muck from Germany (cannot spell or pronounce his name) who said to put your hands on the buckle and just trot, around the ring, across the ring and in huge circles.

DO NOT PICK UP THE REINS.

Your horse does not want to go long and low because he does not have the balance for it, nor is he used to lifting his back. Your horse will not stretch right away – it is foreign to him. Gradually, as he feels comfortable with this balance he will lower his head.

You need to post very softly so he wants to lift his back. And you must not pick up the reins for any reason; if he canters, slowly bring him back with weight, voice and circling. If you use your reins, you are right back where you started – with him tensing up and being defensive.

If you think it is counter intuitive, just think how hard it was for a DQ to let go and not pick up the reins to balance the horse! :)[/QUOTE]

This is basically what I have been taught as well by disciples of another German muckety-muck (Fritz Stecken - his book is good if you can stand it). You have to “let him” - it just may take a long long time (as in months, not minutes). Also lots and lots of long and low at the walk - like Lord Helpus says, don’t pick up the reins!

I am right there with you - also trying to rehab my horse’s back - and he does not lunge well at all, so I’m trying to do this under saddle instead. My horse does not invert, and to the naked eye hacks nicely, but it is a struggle to get him truly lifting his back.

I am not fond of the ‘long and low’ saying and prefer the FDO or forward, down and out which I feel gives it a more accurate description.

I think I would post this question in the dressage forum and maybe ask Digi for help with this. It has more to do with having the horse seeking the bit. Once he can do this and stepping through to your hand ( you should feel each hind leg stepping into the hand on the same side he will then stretch throughout while you send him forward—not fast, but with energy and allow the reins to slip an inch or two but not more than you are creating with your leg. Ask on the dressage forum.

The horse needs to be on the bit before the stretch will be there, otherwise it will be fake too. You can train a horse to lower his head (see western pleasure horses) but it doesn’t mean that the horse is actually ever on the bit.

I have lots of experience with curling TBs…having his head down is not necessarily the goal for me, having him soft and through and accepting the hand and leg is.

take a light contact and when he gives, you give. If he curls, keep the contact. he must learn he cannot hide behind the bit. keep your leg on and ride forward into the bit. You don’t want to frustrate him, but he must learn to give to pressure and stay soft in the connection with the bit. You want everything to be kind and soft still, but say 3 pounds of pressure where your “release” place is one pound of pressure.

It is imperative that if he curls, consistently put more leg on and just keep the contact you have. As soon as he accepts you, soften.

riding inside leg to outside rein can help but if it is annoying him, make it more discreet. Light, steady asks and immediate rewards when he gives. Lots of praise. A “good boy” every time he gives can also help him understand what you want.

he must learn to seek the contact, not just lower his head. That is “connection” – you are reaching out to the horse, and he is reaching out to you. so you want soft, elastic hands and arms so the connection is “home” to him and his happy place. Then, when he is correct, as you let the reins out he will purposefully stretch down into/try to maintain the same the contact and connection because HE is now looking to maintain the good thing he’s got with YOU.

At least that is how I do it, I am sure there are many ways.
If he does not stretch down as you let the reins out, whatever you were doing was still false.

Hello,

I initially work with all of my riders/students and horses I ride/train to do 1 main thing right away, which is to understand lengthening and shortening at each gait.

As in your case with your horse, it will be beneficial for you to teach your horse to have a “range” within each gait. In other words, not just a stop and a go at the exact same pace and frame every time. Your horse should be able to move forward and engage, open up and widen/lengthen itself from tail to nose at each gait, at your command. For example the walk would include a slow collected walk, a normal walk, a medium walk, a working walk, an extended walk. At the trot you would be able to ask for a slow trot, medium trot, working trot and extended trot, etc etc.

I do this by going over how a rider asks a horse to engage and move forward first, and I double check and ask this first because (especially with horses and riders I am working with for the first time), I find that often they either aren’t doing anything to ask for the lengthening/shortening, or they are not asking properly, or their horse simply does not respond to their body cues regardless). I tend to exaggerate the body communication at first for the horse to get a clear understand of the difference between asking for engagement while lengthening vs. compressing while shortening.

At the walk, I will ask for the horse to move forward with a loosened, slightly more relaxed body while encouraging my legs for the horse to move forward on a longer rein every few steps. I give more motion and pressure with my legs while remaining relaxed and loose in my body, making sure the horse is responding to my legs but not jumping into a trot. If it does, I half halt back to a walk and immediately relax and repeat, relax and repeat until the horse no longer trots. Horses that are not used to various speeds within each gait will need time to understand this.

Now, for the opposite…the shortening of the stride (the compression of the gait) it is important to make your body change clearly enough for the horse to understand the difference as I mentioned earlier. For example, to compress and shorten the stride at the walk, apply a half halt and shorten your reins to immediately compensate for the response, keep the horse moving forward only one step at a time, as if they are “crawling”. In my half halts, my body is taller, more upright in the saddle, less relaxation of my pelvis, and my weight is distributed straight down into my tail bone and directly into my heels. The horse feels this change in my body as a “hold” or “pause” of forward motion, and I work with the horse to compromise and stay consistent in a crawl forward, like applying tiny half halts every other step. When the horse understands and does well, I start to relax again and ask for the normal walk and gradually move to the extended walk as I first described above.

The technique of lengthening and shortening of the gaits is absolutely essential for example especially with jumpers when you have only seconds to ask your horse to power forward for a stride, or to hold back and compress for a stride. It’s also for example an excellent technique for doing equitation patterns when a pattern requires an upwards or downwards transition or change of speed at a marker. If you can achieve lengthening and shortening of the gait at the walk, trot and canter, you are also helping to prevent your horse from embarrassing head tossing, tail swishing, cow kicking, hesitating, etc. because your horse will be greatly in tune with your body communication and will have an instant, split second response to the point when you even “think” about the change, your horse will feel it and your cues become quiet and almost invisible… Try it : )

I took a few lessons with a western/English horsemanship rider, and she starts with the long and low before asking for the shortening to slow down… we started st the walk on a small (10 meteris) circle/rectangle and legged legged legged into my hand until they rounded down, as soon as that happened we’d release pressure and then continued. Eventually we got to a working long and low at the walk and moved up to the trot. It was like legging way more than I usually do but eventually he got it and was really stepping through with his body! It helped a bunch!

If he was running through the bridle outside rein string and softening inside rein until he got that he needed to round not rush forward with his head up

Paul Cronin’s book…talks about stabilization. They can’t go long and low until they can maintain all 3-4 gaits on their own without interference from us. Then at that point you can bring to ask for long and low, collection etc. it’s the same concepts we learned at Sweet Briar…rope halters etc! I do lots of long and low with Finn, letting him just find himself on the buckle. It’s helped him a lot.

Agree with the loopy reins/on the buckle. I’ve had my OTTB for about a year. When I first got her, any contact would cause her to curl up with her nose into her chest and suck back. All last winter, spring, and most of the summer we just worked on the buckle. Go Forward and Relax were the only things I cared about. We started incorporating some more contact at the walk and trying baby lateral movements (spiral in/out on a circle, a few steps of leg yield), but trot/canter work was all large figures and a loose rein.

I started introducing more contact on the longe line this summer - using a surcingle, longeing cavesson, and plain leather side reins. Side reins started out completely loopy so she could stretch pretty well all the way to the ground, and gradually shortened so that when she stretched forward, out, and lifted her back, they were there lightly supporting and giving her “feedback”

I would lunge like this (w/t/c) for about 15 mins and then ride - again mostly on the buckle. After a few weeks of side reins, I started picking up more contact at all three gaits, and she just happily stretched into it. Learning it on the longe helped her to understand that contact = happy, welcoming place. I focus on keeping my seat very light and easy, with a supportive leg - she has an excellent work ethic so my leg is really just “there” saying “yup. keep on trucking.” She is occasionally inconsistent with contact - will sometimes come up during transitions etc. but overall is really getting it.

Op- what are you using for a bit right now?

Properly, long and low is a balanced frame with engagement (the horse should not on the forehand. The rider must have a balanced seat, be able to influence the horse from their seat, and be able to not interfere with the horses carriage.

Long and low takes strength on the horses part, and the horse must have the strength and the coordination to carry themselves in that frame.

A horse with any kind of physiological issue that causes discomfort, tack fitting issue that causes discomfort, or a rider who causes the horse to become tense because that rider is not stable in the saddle, or coming down on the horse back, will cause the horse to become resistant to traveling in a long and low frame.

Proper lunging in side reins, working up to ground poles on the lunge, can be a good way to begin to teach a horse to self carry. Upward and downward transitions on the lunge and under saddle, can help the horse to learn to balance himself because transitions require the horse to engage their hunches.

Long and low is best thought of as a step in the training process that must be worked up to. The horse must be physically comfortable and trusting of the rider’s hands. The rider must be experienced enough to understand when they are riding the long and low properly.

There is an exercise I use in the ring with green horses where I simply get into a two point, stay off their backs, take up a moderate contact and plant my hands on the crest of the horses neck. Think of this as sort of creating side reins that are anchored to a fixed point on the horses neck using your hands. I do this at the trot at first, and the horse may fuss a little at first as they learn to carry themselves with that contact. Once the horse is comfortable at the trot, try it at a relaxed canter until the horse grows comfortable with their “hand held side reins” in WTC.

After few rides of doing this, and the horse feels stronger and more balanced. Lower your body down into a half seat while lighten your hands off the crest and simultaneously letting the reins begin to slide through your fingers. It’s very probable that your horse will stretch down as you give him the reins. The key is to keep the horse forward, balanced, and continue to “ride the horse” as he stretches. This is the beginning of a horse learning to travel in a balanced long and low frame.

But of course the above is not the only method, and will be more appropriately used with some horses and not others. If done with certain green horse of certain temperaments, taking up the reins in this way might lead to the horse rearing. So it is up to each rider to know their own abilities, and to use any training technique (including lunging in side reins) safely and with beneficial effect.

[QUOTE=Lord Helpus;8897262]
My horse just had a clinic with a huge muckety-muck from Germany (cannot spell or pronounce his name) who said to put your hands on the buckle and just trot, around the ring, across the ring and in huge circles.

DO NOT PICK UP THE REINS.

Your horse does not want to go long and low because he does not have the balance for it, nor is he used to lifting his back. Your horse will not stretch right away – it is foreign to him. Gradually, as he feels comfortable with this balance he will lower his head.

You need to post very softly so he wants to lift his back. And you must not pick up the reins for any reason; if he canters, slowly bring him back with weight, voice and circling. If you use your reins, you are right back where you started – with him tensing up and being defensive.

If you think it is counter intuitive, just think how hard it was for a DQ to let go and not pick up the reins to balance the horse! :)[/QUOTE]

Yup. He needs to learn to go at all gaits steadily on a long and ultimately a loose rein. Long comes before low by a good while. Long and low and back up and swingy is quite hard, that takes strength it’s not immediate for most horses.

Start on a big circle so you don’t end up in the next county then gradually go straight. He’s an OTTB so don’t die, start on a long rein then just keep feeding it out. Ride forward- big steps. Teach him to go, stop and turn off your leg and seat. It’ll take a long time but be SO worth it for the rest of his career.

With a hotter horse you can start just walk and trot and canter on more of a contact to avoid them getting fast and hot. But ultimately they should warm up on a loose rein at all gaits.

I really do not think that completely abandoning the contact and riding around with no reins is going to teach a horse anything. It is perfectly fine to warm up an ALREADY TRAINED horse on the buckle, but going on the buckle is a product of training, not a tool for training.

A horse that has a correct relationship with the contact will hold himself on the frame allowed by the rider. If the rider shortens the frame, he will carry himself in a shorter frame. If the rider allows more, the horse will fill up the space. The horse who addresses the bridle correctly will fill up the rein when given it.

So how to get a horse to correctly address the contact.

  1. Not by throwing the contact away completely and lettibg the reins swing around in huge arcs.

  2. The rider must establish a lateral tendency ACROSS the horse from the inside leg.
    Ride up the quarter line.
    open the inside rein without pulling back so he looks in and you can see his inner eye lash.
    use your inside leg at the girth to push him out to the wall.

If you do not have an easy “step over” response from the leg at the girth with flow and forward and it just rides light, keep at it until you do.

  1. Meet him with the outside rein.
    Come up the centerline this time.
    Leg yield out three or four steps as before.
    Then catch with outside leg and rein and proceed straight parallel to the wall a few steps.
    Then leg yield out a few steps.
    Then close outside rein and leg and go straight a few steps.

Repeat, repeat, repeat.

  1. So, now the horse accepts closure of the outside rein to stop sideways movement.
    Now he needs to learn to accept conpression of his body from the outside rein.

So when you are legyielding out on your stair steps from before, and you close the rein to ask him to go straight, now close the rein a bit more and ask him to take smaller steps.

If he fusses or braces keep both legs and reins on and wait him out, When he gives even for one step let him take bigger steps again.

Practice being able to take a few short steps with no fussing until he really ACCEPTS a little compression fron the outside rein. Just three steps here and there, he only has to do more steps if you are waiting for him to stop fussing.

  1. Now that you can compress the horse, you can let it out.
    Do your stair step leg yields, compressing a step or two at the start of each straight section before letting him out to step sideways again.
    When you get to the end of the arena so that you are about to go around the short side, compress.
    As you hit the short side leg yield out around the turn and ask for a longer step. Allow with the outside rein, add leg.

He should stretch.

If you follow these steps you will have built the following building blocks:

  1. Move laterally away from the inside leg
  2. Move to and accept the outside rein.
  3. Accept conpression from the outside rein.
  4. Come out of the compression and fill up the rein with a lengthening of frame.

The stretching is the result of all of the building blocks being in place. When the building blocks are correct, stretching results. Lack of stretch response means some of the building blocks are missing.

OR just ride around on the buckle and hope the horse trains itself, which is apparently what flatwork has come to in this country.

^^ Yes to what meupatdoes said!