Looking for Hackamore Suggestions - Is it worth it?

I’ve ridden my horses in a halter and a lead rope, but was interested in trying out a hackamore. Oddly, I don’t know anyone that actually owns one. Is it worth looking into or is it basically the same as the halter and reins? If there’s a difference, what is it? Do they hook up to the headstall the same as a bit?

I’ve been doing research online, but want some firsthand feedback on experiences.

I am pretty sure they will give you little more control than the halter. Would let you try mine if you were nearby!

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I have limited experience with hackmores. What little I know is that they do come in a variety of strengths. I have been warned that you do need to be careful with how high/low on the face they are or you can do damage.
Generally a hackmore will give you more control than a halter.
Then there are sidepulls which would be more control than a halter, less than a hackmore.
Bitless bridle may be an option and there are a few varieties of them.

If you are using a regular halter than moving to a rope halter can up the responsiveness.

I have used an English hackmore with limited success.
When I worked at a rental stable the majority of the horses were Arabians. Most of them used a hackmore with medium long shanks. The curb was leather and the nosepiece was a bicycle chain with rubber tubing over it.

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I’m a jumper but saw your post and use a hackamore for my OTTB and thought I may be able to give some perspective. First of all, I love the hackamore- I cobbled my own together with a regular headstall, cob sized bit attachments and the herm springer short shank hackamore. Start with a short shank and a leather curb strap before you move to something with more leverage or a chain chin strap. You’ll be surprised how much control it offers. The best thing for me was how it forced me to use my body more correctly when communicating with my horse. Definitely more control than a halter- I highly encourage trying one

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I took a regular bridle, added a foam cover to the nose piece and attached the reins to the bridle.

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A hackmore will give you more control than a halter. And of course, different hackamore designs will be slightly different.

My favorite hackamore is a Little S Hackmore (with a rope nose). It’s very light, you can direct rein, but that rope gives a little bite if you need it. I like using it for winter riding (don’t have to deal with a cold bit) but I just switched my newest barrel-horse-in-training to a Little S Hack and he is doing great. He is so sensitive and so light, even a snaffle or a very small curb was too much for him during a barrel run. The hack obviously stays off his mouth and I barely have to lift a finger to cue him.

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Another vote for the Little S. It’s a great little hackamore.

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Hackamores (shanked bitless nosebands) come in quite the variety of options. As a general rule the longer the shanks the more “whoa” the shorter the shanks the better steering. I have been using a type of wheel hack long lining our Belgian yearling (you bet I’m not waiting to give him a “job” as he is already 16.1!). I really like the wheel hacks as they allow multiple options from a sidepull action to mild to moderate leverage. The one I am using is called a Star Wheel, but there is also the LG Zaum, Flower, Orbitless, Daisy, Alatyr, and Happy Wheel. Most come with leather straps, some with synthetic, and I have seen people use chain curb straps for a sharper action. I do recommend using a bridle with a jowl or jaw strap as there can be some twisting on a standard bridle, moreso on the sidepull setting than with leverage. I like that they have multiple options so you can adjust to the horse or situation. I’m always about versatile tack that works well!

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Thanks for all the info! I’m looking into these and will probably pick up one next week. I certainly want to try this on both horses.

You’re welcome! Good luck with it and enjoy! I’ve found my horses to be much happier in their jobs bitless (lesson horses) though they do still go in bits for competitions that require it.

@CERT - After having Skipper spook and nearly take off with me down trail, I’m going to hang the rope halter up for now and work on control with a bit. He was fine until the spook. After that, getting him to refocus and not pull through the pressure was tiring. He just wanted to go after that. He wasn’t afraid, just not listening and was trying to make decisions for me. It made for a not so enjoyable remainder of the ride.

I contacted Myler to see if there was an option for a different bit to the low port shank or the snaffle that he had been ridden in previously. We were told that a combination bit would probably work on him to bring him back after a spook. We’ll see.

We’ve used hacks on a few horses that had mouth issues. Tried the English and Western versions. All had the same virtue, in that they were more effective than a halter/leadrope or a bosal, but all had the same vice in that they were a very inefficient communication device as compared to a bit.

So we use them when the needs of the horse say we should but not for other reasons.

G.

Some people really like rope halters, but they function more like a bosal, but less clear due to the slop in the system (sliding up the nose, twisting on the face) so that may be the issue more than the fact there was no bit. Bosals/traditional hackamores are great, but they require a different hand as they don’t function properly with steady pulls of the rein, it must be give and take.

I do think it is worth playing with one of the wheel hack options (Orbitless would be my first choice since it offers the most options), even with your less-than-stellar experience with the rope halter. Finding the right bitless option isn’t quite as irritating as finding the best bit, but it can take a couple tries. I’ve been breaking our monstrous Belgian yearling to drive in a Star Wheel and it is working quite well.

The bridle I have had the best success with has been the Evolution bridle from Moss Rock Endurance http://www mossrockendurance.com between the cross-under and sidepull options. It also has a slot for a bit and you could two-rein it as you two get used to it (ride off the bitless, use the bit as necessary). Our four year-old was started in this bridle and is going nicely in it. I am getting her accustomed to the bit as well, but 99% of our work up to this point has been bitless.

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[ATTACH=JSON]{“data-align”:“none”,“data-size”:“full”,“data-attachmentid”:10291378}[/ATTACH] You will see me riding a 3 year old spotted saddle horse in my pic on a halter only. It really depends on the horse and the rider. Halters apply pressure to the nasal bone of the nose. But the horse has to be listening and not dreaming while working. You still need to guide the horse with legs and if western / neck reins. The halter will tell a horse to bend or stop, but takes a lot of time and trust. Added to a headstall then you also have some poll control. A simple “nose muff” style halter is the least control. The horse better trust you. Leather applies more pressure, rawhide even more, and there are some metal variety bands that I cannot recommend. If these are used wrongly, you will have an angry horse that will want to remove its rider.

August 2018.jpg

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The Myler Combo is, mechanically speaking, a piece of garbage. It sends conflicting signals. It is a gag bit unless you use the ring that the mouthpiece is on. Gags tell a horse to raise its head. The leverage applies poll pressure, telling the horse to lower it’s head, and the noseband squeezes. That’s a lot of conflicting cues, and while it may give you the whoa you need, it can cause other issues. You would be better off finding a decent snaffle, Myler or otherwise, and spend the time to train. If you feel you absolutely need a bit more control, try a Kimberwick or use an Argentine with two reins, one on the snaffle ring and one on the curb. Then it’s there only when you need it.

The combo bit, or any bit, is going to be a bandaid if his brain is gone after a spook. I suggest finding a trainer that can give you some techniques on how to deal with the issue. I totally understand not wanting to be left high and dry with no control, so I see why bitless may not be your best option right now, but I feel like the Myler Combo is only going to help you for so long, if it does at all.