[QUOTE=StarPattern;8952213]
While shopping for acreages, I’m also learning and educating myself about proper horse keeping, etc etc. I’m no stranger to horses, but have always boarded so I don’t really have the hands on knowledge of the finer aspects of manure management?[/QUOTE]
Depending on your local laws, there could be a significant difference in your daily life if you choose to comply fully depending on how you handle manure.
In my county, spreading manure requires a nutrient management plan and data to back up your notes. This gets time consuming and expensive, plus if you have more poop than acreage you could still have manure left over.
In any case, figure out your county’s laws and also their BMPs (Best Management Practices). The county conservation districts in my area have material ready and easy to read and understand on their websites. You’d be a fool to simply remain ignorant of what is requested of you, even if you can’t afford to comply completely.
Our county conservation district folks actually visited this fall and discussed things with my wife. (I was busy). I was quite wary of this but she attended a manure management workshop put on by them and they seemed pretty reasonable. So far, after the visit it seems they are reasonable. I’m sure it helps that we availed ourselves to the information they offered in advance and were not gruff about the whole “clean water” concept. I mean this seems fair to me, considering I don’t do what I’ve seen others do: spreading manure on a snowy driveway in winter (!?!?!), creating a big pile out back right next to the bank to the creek, etc.
I get our manure hauled out by a local farmer who mixes our manure with other compost material and spreads it on his fields. In my county, I need a manure management plan which basically documents this plan and does not require any data other than notes about how much was hauled out, and when.
Will you have a bobcat or tractor with a loader? This gives you more options without the backbreaking labor. We dump manure beside the pile and push it up with the tractor. Then when the farmer brings his dump truck we use the tractor to load it too. That said, not all farmers are looking to import nutrients - I consider myself lucky to be working with one.
Some observations about manure piles, as they are a necessary evil for many of us.
- They don’t stink like poop if you turn it regularly and keep the digestion going. They have an odor but IMHO it’s nothing like sewage or other manures.
- They must be located on a local high spot, so that rain water does not drain into it and leach out the nutrients.
- An improved floor (concrete) and covering (roof or durable tarp) help keep odors and things in control.
- Running the tractor around it will tear up the ground. It helps to locate it on very durable, dry soil or improved surface that can handle the abuse.
- Don’t scrape the bucket against the ground when pushing up the pile. You will create a low area before long.
- Know your tractor’s height under the bucket so that anyone who comes to pick up stuff can measure their trailer or dump bed. My current pick-up guy has a bed with sides just a few inches shorter than my tractor can reach - any closer and it would be a no-go.
- Locate your manure storage as far from drainage ditches, gullies, streams, or ponds as practical. If there is marsh or other dense plant matter along the way it’s better because these will help absorb the nutrients.
- It may be possible to deodorize / improve your compost by adding lime or other things to it. Like I said, if you turn it frequently the odor is not bad, and if you do more it may effectively be “gone”.
Dumpsters sure are convenient but they cost more money. You might need to empty your wheelbarrows into a tractor bucket or build a ramp to dump into one.