Many Questions about Trailers - Buy used? Bumper pull/gooseneck? slant/straight load?

[Hafdressage]

I have all of these questions and more. I’m slowly starting to debate my first horse trailer. I’ve always had trainers haul me before now, so I haven’t given much thought to purchasing my own. I do know that “goosenecks” are what I’m more accustomed to, but clearly bumper pulls are less expensive and probably more common in the 2-horse range.

What are current thoughts on the following questions:

How does everyone feel about purchasing used trailers? (Meaning a few years old - not 20)
What Brands are considered the best for used trailers?
What about pull type? Bumper/Goodneck?
Load type? Slant or straight?

Also, do you guys think it’s best to purchase a truck and then find a trailer or the other way around?

All opinions are welcome and thanks in advance!

[cgray0983]

I am sure this will all come down to personal preference and what you need the trailer for, but to answer your questions:

I have purchased both new and used. I had a used two horse that I purchased purely as a day driver and only held onto it for a couple years until it was clear that I needed a larger straight-load two horse. I purchased that trailer new and it is beautiful and still very practical. My other trailer is a 4-horse LQ gooseneck that we use to haul long distances and stay in at horse shows. It was 6 years old when we bought it and in excellent condition. I prefer the newer floors (which can be found in many made after 2000) that have urine wicking flooring to help with traction and prevent rotting. If you decide to go used absolutely make sure the floor is in good shape!

I am not really sure what brands are the best, as I have my favorite brand in Logan Coach. I decided to go with them 1) I prefer aluminum over steel framing as opposed to aluminum over aluminum and 2) because I had a friend who had one from the late 1980s and she never took care of it besides brakes and bearings and that thing was tough for all the multiple horses that had been in it! Other brands I would consider used include: Hart, Jamco, EBY and Bloomer. I would do your own research and perhaps take a look at several and compare. I am sure more people will have opinions and advice, but I am always more on the side of steel framing.

I prefer gooseneck, but as you stated, bumper pull can be easier/less expensive and can be pulled with a wider variety of vehicles. I prefer the way that a gooseneck handles and backs-up. My only advice here is that if you decide on a bumper pull, make sure you are okay with the length, with large tack-rooms or large stalls sometimes long bumper pulls can be a bit of a hassle. Make sure you are 100% comfortable backing and turning.

Again, with the loading style it is personal preference or horse-related. I have warmbloods that are all between the the 16.2hh-17.3hh range and they need larger spaces. My two-horse is a 7’6"w x 8’h straight load with a ramp and my large travel trailer is an 8’ x 8’ slant load with a ramp. Because it is wide the wheel wells encroach in a couple stalls so my “shorter” length horses go in those two. Many larger horses are not as comfortable in the standard size two horse slant loads, so it’s one more thing to consider.

Overall, I found that finding a reputable dealer/service center really helped me research and find what was best for me. I have bought one trailer off craigslist and it worked out okay, but I had to track down records and for my own peace of mind I made sure to have everything checked on it before I used it.

Happy shopping!

[cgray0983]

I saw you added a truck question. If you know you are for sure getting a 2-horse you can probably go ahead and buy a towing vehicle. But if you think you want to upgrade at all, you may want to wait, as larger trailers require a larger weight-class. Most dealers will have you sign waivers stating that they are not responsible for making sure that your vehicle is appropriate for the trailer you purchase. I knew I needed a one-ton so as soon as I found what I was looking for I snatched it up. Oh! And you won’t want a short bed for a gooseneck

[stb]

Two years ago I bought my first trailer. I had been out of horses for a while and listened to my friends’ advice about what I should buy. I bought a 2H BP all aluminum slant load step up. I pretty much hated that trailer. I just traded it on a 2H BP straight load with ramp, aluminum over steel frame (Hawk) trailer. I LOVE the Hawk and so do my horses. It pulls better, it’s cooler and more comfortable for the horses, and I feel the ramp is safer for loading/unloading.

It’s hard to make an informed decision if you haven’t actually had experience with the did different types of trailers. There is nothing like experience as a teacher. My friends love their slant load step-ups, but it sure didn’t suit me. I had to learn the hard way.

I don’t know where you are but if you are near the Southeast you should talk to Risa at Happy Trails Trailers. I found her super helpful and I got a great deal on my new Hawk.

[sascha]

Just went through this and am very happy with my purchases.

I got my truck first because I had already decided what I wanted for a trailer and just had to find what I wanted in my price range.

I bought both from dealers used. For the truck, I bought from Sketchy McSketcherton (actually not, turned out to be a top rated used dealer with all kinds of kudos and popular choice awards in his area) and had my trusted mechanic do a PPE :lol: and then used the repairs necessary as a bargaining point to lower the price of the truck. I then had my trusted shop do all the repairs and install the hitch. If you are buying used from a dealer and the dealer won’t let your mechanic look at it, run away. This guy had no problem with me taking the truck on a full day trial including driving it over an hour one way to get the PPE done.

If that’s what you’re going to do, then make sure your mechanic knows about towing and knows you want an absolutely safe and sound tow vehicle that will pull X pounds and take X pounds of tongue weight, etc. If your mechanic doesn’t get all that, then ask your friends who they would recommend.

From my research, top trailers are Jamco, EBY, and 4-Star. They are not cheap, not even used, however, used they are more affordable and might have upgrades that you wouldn’t add onto a new build if you’re on a tighter budget. I ended up x-border shopping for mine so I was lucky to find a trustworthy dealer who not only had the trailer I wanted but had its maintenance contracts for the past couple of years. That meant a LOT to me especially since its very first trip with me was a 6 hour cross border trip.

I prefer straight load to slant. Bigger horses don’t fit all that nicely in slants. Shopping used and top models, finding a straight load within a reasonable budget will take some patience. Slant loads abound. The other point of buying a top rated straight load is that they can usually be SAFELY converted to box stall if you ever want to haul in a box.

I went with goose neck for the extra storage/overnight camping possibilities and the stability. They’re also easier to back up

One more note on trucks. If you’re buying new, don’t let the salesperson tell you what you need for towing. Know ahead of time and tell them what you want. They don’t all know and you might end up with an unsuitable or marginally useful vehicle. There have been some recent threads that discuss how to figure out what you need. If in doubt, go bigger and tougher than you think you’ll need. More truck might be a bit more expensive to run/maintain, but the peace of mind is well worth it, imo.

And, lastly, if shopping used for either truck or trailer, if it looks too good to be true, it is. I think I reported a number of scams in my search for used truck and trailer. Ads were pulled within 15 minutes of reporting them to the website, but still, frustrating. Be careful, ask lots of questions, and don’t give your banking information away!

[imaginique]

I have a lot of truck so I can pull anything I want. I just downsized from a 4-horse gooseneck to a 3-horse bumper pull. I bought a new trailer and in looking at ads I’ve noticed that a lot of used trailers are more expensive than my new one. My suggestion is to go to a dealership or two and look at trailers and get a feel for the cost of what you want, then shop some ads for used trailers before you decide.

[ryansgirl]

I have a bumper pull, 2-horse straight load with ramp. It’s a Kingston I bought new in 2004 and it still looks new (they hold their value and are so well-built that it’s hard to find a used one - people tend to hold on to them!). I will never buy a slant trailer, a trailer with a step-up, or a trailer with mangers. If I had a 3/4-ton I’d get a gooseneck but in reality I have no need for a gooseneck since my mare is a pasture pet so we don’t trailer anywhere.

All personal preference in my case.

[Guilherme]

With the exception of Sundowner, where there are some years in some models with very clear structural issues due to manufacturing decisions, this comes down to an individual choice.

Some people swear by slants, some swear at them. Ditto for bumper pull vs. gooseneck; open box vs. divided box; hauling tied vs. free; etc. Then we get to have real fun debating Silverado vs. Super Duty vs. RAM vs. Tundra vs. SUV vs. crossover vs. Jeep. Etc.

The first job of a buyer is to define their needs. Then decide on wants. Then set a budget. Then start looking.

The best place to start is by spending some time with two or three of the large on-line sites to get a feel for what’s out there and general price levels. Then, if necessary, modify the buyer’s priorities.

In any older trailer have it checked out by a shop. That will cost a couple of hours of shop time but can save huge dollars later on. In most instances they should also plan on replacing the tires. Most trailers are for sale for a reason and lack of use is likely the most common. That means not generally maintained and that usually means old tires. Put tires in the budget!!!

Good luck in your search.

G.

[HSS]

[QUOTE=ryansgirl;8643820]
I have a bumper pull, 2-horse straight load with ramp. It’s a Kingston I bought new in 2004 and it still looks new (they hold their value and are so well-built that it’s hard to find a used one - people tend to hold on to them!). I will never buy a slant trailer, a trailer with a step-up, or a trailer with mangers. [/QUOTE]

Gosh you can say that again!

I bought my Kingston 2 horse custom warm blood sized trailer in 1987. that’s right, 1987!! It’s aluminum over steel frame. I’ve driven it literally thousands of miles, across country, everywhere. It drives like a dream, every horse comes out of it dry and comfortable, and in an emergency I can get them out the front doors (and I have).

Have always maintained it- just had the shop check it all over, cause I see some rust and stuff, and they gave it a flying clean bill of health.

It was an expensive purchase at the time, but worth it. It’s still very attractive. I don’t know if it holds it’s value, because I’ll probably never sell it, but I can’t recommend Kingston highly enough.

[2DogsFarm]

My 1st trailer was a 4-Star 2H BP straightload w/ramp, bought new from a dealer. Towed with a Chevy Blazer, then Ford Explorer.
Hauling ate brakes on the Blazer - 2 sets in 6yrs, no noticeable effect on the Ford in the next 10.
Lasted me 16yrs and in that time I decided I never wanted a ramp again for 2 reasons:
1-even with hydraulic lift the damn ramp weighed a metric ton
2-horses will lower their heads 100% of the time stepping up, less chance of heads being bonked loading from a ramp

Next & current trailer is a '97 4-Star GN 2H slant step-up w/DR.
Tow vehicle was part of a package deal from private party (friend of a friend) - F250 V10 - truck gets so-so gas mileage, but that does not change with a loaded trailer behind it.
Only thing I don’t like about the trailer is the non-collapsible tack at the rear - my 17h+ WB was squished in the rear (larger) slot when I had to haul 2.
If I could collapse the tackroom it would have given him more room.
For just 1 horse, I tie back the divider so they get a large compartment to themselves.
13h Pony hauls in the 1st slot fine.

In the 6yrs I’ve had it I do not find the GN any easier to maneuver or back than the BP.

In fact, crawling in & out of the truck bed to hitch is getting hard on aging Me.
So much that I am actively looking to trade the truck for an SUV & go back to BP.
Right now looking at a Ford Expedition & another '97 4-Star BP at a dealer about 1h from home.

Annual checkup for the trailer - no matter how often you haul - should include bearings, lube, check brakes & tires.
IIWM, I’d get your tow vehicle 1st, then tailor the trailer to that.

[MysticOakRanch]

Funny ryansgirl, because I have about the opposite feelings. I will never get another ramp, seen too many injuries on ramps, and every horse I’ve had has hauled better in a slant. I’ve had a few broodmares who absolutely refuse to load in straight loads.

There is a lot of research out there on what horses prefer - and most prefer to ride BACKWARDS, or backwards at an angle. So - unless you have the $$$ to get a custom backwards trailer (yes, they can be ordered that way), then you have to consider next option. Research shows more horses prefer slant then straightload, BUT - there is strong preferences with different horses, so you need to ask your horse :lol:

As for used - not an issue at all. Have the floor checked, have the wiring checked, look at the tires. Do a careful check inside and out - any rusted spots, any sharp edges to be worried about? Trailers hold their value well - it isn’t like buying a used car - you may find that a 10 or 15 year old trailer is only 25% less then a new trailer. But that 25% might make the difference between affording the trailer you want.

Personally, I won’t ever own a trailer with an aluminum floor. IF it needs repairs, it is a lot of money, and they never retain the same strength. AND - I’m in a hot climate, and aluminum conducts heat - my horses don’t need to stand on a hot floor - rubber mats can help, but it is still a hot surface. There is a reason they use aluminum for so many cooking pans.

As for aluminum vs steel shell - there are arguments for both. I started out longing for aluminum, but after doing some research and consulting my budget, I decided to go with steel. It is a bit cooler, and it is a lot less expensive. For a 2 horse trailer, weight wasn’t a huge issue (I have a Ford F250, no problem pulling).

I didn’t want gooseneck - it eats up the truck bed - for a 2 horse it didn’t make sense. If you are going to camp w/ your horse, or stay at shows a lot, then it might make sense - but to be honest, the extra cost of the gooseneck pays for a heck of a lot of hotel bills! So I went bumper pull. Easier to hook up and unhook, and leaves me a truck bed to fill with hay, muck carts, etc when I’m going for a while.

I went and looked at a lot of new trailers in my price range (which was limiting the quality of the trailers I could look at), and finally looked at used trailers. My requirements:

2 horse slant
2nd stall had to be big enough for a good sized horse (some slants have skimpy 2nd stalls)
7 feet tall (or taller)
Dividers needed bars so horse wasn’t feeling to confined
No ramp
Wood floors
Well lined with rubber inside (safety and helps protect trailer against pawers)
Wide open entrance - no tack room at the entry, and no “dropped” edge at the top of the entry (some trailers are 7 feet tall, and the entry into the trailer is 6.5 - WHY?).
Open on the butt side (like a stock trailer - I’m in a hot climate and want that airflow).
Drop down windows with bars on the head side
Sealed tack room
Since steel - double lined body

I kissed a lot of toads, and inspected a lot of floors. BTW - floor repair is not a huge expense for wood, so don’t panic over a bad board - just use it as a bargaining tool. Ultimately, I found a used trailer (about 11 years old) at a dealer - brand new tires, they replaced 2 floor boards for me, added a bit more interior matting and clip so I could tie back the divider and use it as a box stall, and they put a new plug on my truck since my old trailer used a different plug.

You need to consider your tow vehicle and your budget. Go look at some trailers - look at things that you like and don’t like. Ask the trainers who have trailered your horse - does he have any trailering issues and/or preferences?

[Hafdressage]

Thank you everyone for the responses!!! Very helpful so far!

[petit_cheval_brun]

Good book

When I was looking to buy a trailer, I purchased (online, used) and read “The Complete Guide to Buying, Maintaining, and Servicing a Horse Trailer” by Neva Kittrell Scheve. It really helped me decide what type of trailer I needed for my particular horse.

[ArabDiva]

I’ll share that the ONE feature that I love on my 2-horse trailer is the ability to open it ALL the way up into a box stall. This has been super helpful for a variety of things: loading practice and desensitization with a young, temperamental horse, comfortable 12-hr journey when I purchased a new horse, not to mention hauling yard waste and helping friends move.

I’m personally not a fan of ramps. Heavy, lots of moving parts to maintain/get broken, and to me they feel less safe (I could easily see my bad loader throwing a fit and slipping off the side.) Most bumper pull trailers are low enough to the ground that a step is no big deal, and most of the modern ones have thick rubber bumpers on them.

[TrotTrotPumpkn]

This is all personal opinion, and I’m trying to limit myself to basic options you see:

Ramps: I don’t like ramps with curtains (meaning the ramp is the door). I like 2 full doors (so I also don’t like one huge door) and could take or leave a ramp. When things go badly, I have seen it worse with a ramp than without. One caveat would be a side unload ramp. Big fan of those. Also, add a rubber bumper under the rear door(s) if you do a step-up and it doesn’t come with it. you can do that after-market.

I’m indifferent on slants, but they tend to squish big horses, unless you are getting a very, very wide trailer. So basically I don’t like 90% of them for my size of horse. I would want an escape door in the first stall. IDK what your budget for a truck and trailer is.

I would prefer a gooseneck, but this requires a bigger truck.

I do not like mangers.

If you are going to tie your horse to the side of the trailer at events, look carefully at the potential trailer for potential injuries that a pawing horse could do to himself.

I like a sealed, walk-in tack room for dust, theft & slobber reasons.

Steel rusts. I currently have a steel trailer, btw.

If you are on a budget (I have no idea) a simple 7’ tall stock trailer is a good trailer to have. Wider than 6’ ideally. Most horses will load.

I loathe, LOATHE, the mini escape doors on older two-horse trailers. I have gotten injured several times, despite being careful. Hate them.

I agree that it’s great if your trailer can do double duty as a mower hauler, 4 wheeler hauler, etc. so a removable divider/center is great.

Watch how hard or easy an older trailer hitch ball coupler is to use. Your fingers will thank you. I actually replaced the one on my old trailer with a better one. That is one nice thing about steel–easier to modify.

Older tires with tread still need to be replaced. Your biggest enemy is rot, moisture, sitting and sun. Something to budget for. And absolutely have a trailer shop go over any used trailers.