So I have and LOVE my hay hoops in my stalls. I will have this product always! but…when I first set up my barn, the salt block holders suggested positioning over hay source location. Ok, I did. but the sweat/heat/licking has really oxidized the hay hoop below, and now? I fear I can’t get the old ones removed for the new ones. (hay hoops have rusted a lot and need replacing) the screws are a total non back out, now. waaaay too gone. I may bolt cutter the ‘frame’ off, and wait for summer to try and dremmel the wall attachments off…I dunno. But! at any rate, when I can put up my new ones, would the upgrade to no rusting screws/quality allow me to remove them later to remove the rusted product? or will they (screws) rust anyway. 
rather than just hanging the new hayloop as was purchased you may want to sand it then primer with red oxide primer, let that dry and repaint
Red oxide primer is an anti-corrosion coating designed to stop rust formation. It can be applied directly over a rusty surface and is most ideal for exterior use. Red oxide primer can be covered with most conventional topcoats once it fully dries.
Our barn frame is steel which was coated in red oxide …we have the chip the red oxide away to obtain a ground for any wielding we do to the structure.
If you can get the backside of the mounting area you can use plastic or nylon nuts/bolts that are completely noncorrosive
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If the problem here is that the positioning of the salt has rusted the hay hoop hardware…why not move the salt? It can be anywhere in the stall.
I do not use stainless steel screws on fences or barn because they are not attracted to a magnet. I prefer something that can be picked up with a magnet so it is easier to find in the grass or bedding if I should drop one (or even a whole box).
Yes, there are types of stainless steels that are attracted to magnets, but I haven’t found them yet in stainless steel decking screws.
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well that is a misconception as there are various classes of stainless steel, and only one is non- magnetic .
most fasteners made with 304 and 316 stainless steel grades are austenitic, which means that they are non- magnetic . Even those there can be versions that are magnetic, depending upon iron content and how the product was manufactured
Simkie: I added the positioning of that was MY fault. of course I have learned and won’t do that again! but when I put new ones in, I wanted to know if a good quality marine stainless steel screw will not corrode so I can remove them when need be. If they corrode anyway due to the rust/natural item ‘around’ them, I don’t know if they’ll solve the next install. One salt block HAS made the difference. another stall it has not. the product does rust. Thats ok, as long as I can back screws out once it does.
that makes sense, of course. but these are ‘four’ screws that hold the bracket . the bracket does rust, but this time I’d like to know if the better screws will allow me to back them out, even if product does rust over time, so I can replace with new. I cannot budge these screws ‘now’…just asking for installation of new ones.
I expected you to appear to nitpick, just not this quickly. That is why I said that there are magnetic stainless steels. Did you read past my first sentence?
The stainless steel screws I have purchased appear to be non-magnetic, or at least minimally magnetic. Certainly not as attracted to my horseshoe nail magnet as “regular” deck screws.
I think the point about making sure you use magnetic screws is that when you accidentally drop one during installation or removal, you can find it with your magnet. BTDT several times.
Which reminds me I should add this to the gadget thread - a roofing magnet on wheels is a godsend for not only “revnovations” but for cleaning up shoeing areas.
to all in re: ‘magnetic’ screws. I totally agree with major projects / needing ability to collect up any dropped screws. I’d prefer? that discussion not to overtake my interest. I’m speaking of mounting two brackets. each taking 4 screws. I’m not building a barn or building a fence line. Magnetic is not an issue in this question. NON RUSTING is. thanks!!!
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Glad to know you’re so much less clumsy than those of us that can drop 3 fasteners while installing or removing 1! We have been duly chastened for our tangent.
Stainless is your best bet. Nothing is perfect. Deck screws are probably your next best choice. 3rd choice would be “hot-dipped.” All steel. Brass plated screws won’t rust but they will break.
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sigh. sascha…I have a very tiny two stall barn. I will sweep my mats, I will put down tarps I will be sure to pick up on my hands and knees any of the 4 screws I drop. I never meant to chastize anyone. thread was going astray…they often do. I tried to re establish what I was asking about and why. and, believe it or not? I am GLAD to learn of any big project why one might consider they are/are not magnetic. that’s a good thing! its just not pertinent here.
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Last time I checked there wasn’t really a way to prevent side tracks, highjacks, tangents and other things that don’t answer the original post. If you don’t want any tangents, send PMs.
Anyway, came back to say, I used deck screws to put up a pile of mirrors in an uninsulated, attached to the barn arena (read LOTS of condensation on that particular wall every spring) and they all came out like brand new when I removed them about 6 years later. That is probably what I’d use. I’m thinking back to other screws I’ve used that “came with” whatever it was I was installing and decided to give up on that when I needed to move a couple of things. Deck screws ever since, tyvm.
GREAT suggestion! Sure wish you would have indeed PMed me this last one instead!
Stainless steel screws are incredibly expensive. I still have a collection from my yachting days, when I worked at a marine store. You can find them at your hardware store in their fastener department. Hot dip galvanizing has a thicker rough coating with a dull appearance. Electro galvanizing is cheaper but the galvanizing looks thinner.
If I ruin the head of a screw and can’t get it out with the drill or screwdriver I use Vice-Grips.
The tool to use, when you have a stripped screw head, is a screw extractor. you can get it at any hardware store. Cheap and it’s worked every time for me. So OP, if you haven’t tried that yet, definitely try the extractor before you damage the metal frame that you’re trying to remove.
For fasteners, life’s too short for cheap hardware. My go-to fastener are star-head coated construction screws. Yes they are pricey but they are incredibly strong, your drill bit won’t slip, and I have not had any rust issues despite multiple years of harsh outdoor exposure
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walktrot and HH1, thanks! I appreciate it. in re: removing existing ‘screws’ I really should get better about taking photos!!! (THIS Christmas was the time I finally relented and let my family buy me a smart phone. I’m STILL not understanding all the uses) anyway. imagine such a heavy corrosion there is no ‘star’ or otherwise to even attempt. almost gives a ‘grew together’ puddle of rust over head of screw and onto and around the bracket plate. not sure Vice Grips can grab ‘just the head’ anymore. But I’ll read up on both the extractor and the vice grips to see. If anyone IS familiar with hay hoops…one thing I’m really considering is bolt cutting the ‘hay hoop’ part in a way I could slide it off frame/bracket and simply cutting a new hay hoop in a similar way to slip back on. just don’t want it to slip off everytime I go to load, or be a hazard …
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The extractors basically grind right down into the screw head, creating enough tension that it will start to rotate out. Give it a shot, they’re a super cheap tool and even if this one’s too far gone, it’s something you should have on hand anyway.
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