My dogs and I were attacked by a pitt bull this morning (we're OK)

[QUOTE=Cascades;8906285]
It is obedience. Seriously. Tracking, obedience, protection. But it’s all obedience.

You’re coming across as slightly unhinged. Really.[/QUOTE]

What Sswor noted about Gaslighting.

A poster noted they never heard of IPO related to mauling. There was a recent case that made national news. Posters noted k9s as being safe and then not safe. That pulled up more stories.

You are noting it as quality of dog and insinuating that I am wrong for wanting to ask if a dog has had bite training.

I don’t trust bite training, and don’t have any intention of trying wrangle all of the those that do.

I will ask that question though, if a dog is presented to me with that type of training. That just tosses the power back to the owner. You can choose the answer and if you are in complete trust of your beliefs, the question is moot.

[QUOTE=khall;8906302]
I can chime in on tug, I have and still work with one pit bull type, had another former bait dog foster. These dogs love to tug. In correct training you teach the dog an off switch. So you ramp the dog up with tugging, lots of high energy and play and then stop, or dead toy. Teach the dog to release when you stop tugging. I tell them out as in spit it out and the treat when they drop the tug. The bait dog I had to initially lure into releasing, she did NOT want to let go. But once learned I played tug a lot with this dog until the out command was solid. My foster now is not quite as committed and learned quite quickly that dead toy means out. I do not even have to command her to spit the toy out anymore. Teaching the dog and appropriate command and being able to ramp the dog up and then switch them off. I also get the dogs ramped up in play and then go to sit or down. Pit bulls are fun to work with, they are so smart and usually very easy to train.[/QUOTE]

I train obedience this way, as well. Building drive, then capping it. Works amazingly well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgx6zWS1r_g

[QUOTE=khall;8906302]
I can chime in on tug, I have and still work with one pit bull type, had another former bait dog foster. These dogs love to tug. In correct training you teach the dog an off switch. So you ramp the dog up with tugging, lots of high energy and play and then stop, or dead toy. Teach the dog to release when you stop tugging. I tell them out as in spit it out and the treat when they drop the tug. The bait dog I had to initially lure into releasing, she did NOT want to let go. But once learned I played tug a lot with this dog until the out command was solid. My foster now is not quite as committed and learned quite quickly that dead toy means out. I do not even have to command her to spit the toy out anymore. Teaching the dog and appropriate command and being able to ramp the dog up and then switch them off. I also get the dogs ramped up in play and then go to sit or down. Pit bulls are fun to work with, they are so smart and usually very easy to train.[/QUOTE]

My cousin was working on this. Or maybe he had it, the main hang up was that the dog listened almost all of the time TO HIM. When/if the dog didn’t listen, it was important that he be corrected, properly, immediately. I did see how the dog acted during tug though, I thought this was all very reasonable to just say don’t do it. The puppy school we took our dogs to had a slightly different approach… Some dogs got to use tug as a reward, they LOVED it. Others didn’t even entertain the idea, if they were showing any sign of being the types who “turned off.”

Still others (ours) couldn’t figure out that they were supposed to pull. At all. The tug toys were just not even remotely interesting. “you want it, human? Go nuts. There’s kids over there who will PET me…”

rugbygirl, I actually do not believe in “correcting” the dog. Be a better trainer. If the dog only listens to one person then bring in another to help train the dog to listen to others. Kind of like with a shy dog taking them out and having strangers give them goodies (provided of course). With positive training, you have to find the goody that is more important to the dog than the tug is, or another toy if they are play driven. So regular old cookie (dry) is not incentive enough to stop tugging, then up the ante with string cheese or hot dog. My bait dog foster was not so interested in food like my foster now is, so I had to find yummies that was worth it to her. Thankfully she liked dried liver treats, that would get her off the tug. Once learned though and proofed, really fun game to play with the dog. The bait dog was only 40 lbs but boy could she tug!

Absolutely some dogs are tug oriented some are not. I only have one personal dog that was (not so much now at almost 12 and big boy at 90 + lbs) and it has been just two of my pit bull fosters, adult dogs, that liked tug. The puppies I raised were not interested and my one other adult “pit bull” not interested. It takes a “drivey” dog to enjoy tug.

https://www.facebook.com/notes/handsome-dan/goodnight-halle/1311980512169344

I am so thankful that the Victory dogs changed how fighting dogs were managed.

For those of you for BSLs:

http://www.snopes.com/2016/10/25/bsl-and-dog-bites/

[QUOTE=rugbygirl;8906250]
Do you have a resource that can explain to me what “bite work” is? Because everything I’ve ever seen has a human or human shaped dummy wearing protection, and a dog that runs up, opens their mouths and clamps down on the human. This is done by some sort of command, sometimes audible, sometimes not. The dog is not leashed for this, but when I’ve seen it, it’s been going on in an enclosure of some kind.

I’m really not sure how you can spin that into anything else. It shows a real disconnect that you don’t understand why that would make someone fearful. Most of us companion dog owners train our dogs that biting any human is NOT OK. We start when they are puppies.

And sure, the dogs biting the meter reader might not be from your IPO club, but in one memorable incident, it was a retired K9. So, there’s that. Ever try and get animal control involved with an active police officer? Yeah, that doesn’t go well. We shared yard codes with the meter readers. There was a “dog” code.[/QUOTE]

There is a fundamental difference between an IPO dog who does this for sport and a working K9.
There are two main drives that are used to train “biting dogs”, prey and defense. In SchH/IPO, which is a sport and performance test for some sheperd dog breeding programs, almost 100% of the training is done in prey drive. In IPO every dog is required to start out with a solid obedience foundation, that’s what the first test, the BH is all about. It has no bitework.
In a stable dog, especially one as willing to please their handler as sheperd types, prey drive is controllable. The drive and the the willingness for obedience match each other. You can “ramp the dog up” and take him back down.
The training director of a good club can and will exclude dogs from bite work at any time when s/he feels they are not ready, have an unsuitable temperament, or the owners are just interested in the biting without the other components. The focus lies on maintaining control and precision in high drive scenarios.

Working K9s do not work in prey drive only, but also in defense drive. Defense makes a more serious dog - think about it, defense means that the dog feels threatened (for himself or his handler), that’s not just fun anymore for the dog. The dog needs to chose “fight” over “flight” reliably, the training teaches him how to fight efficiently.
A dog that is worked purely in prey is self-rewarding, but it also means that most dogs will quit when you put enough pressure on them, i.e. when the unpleasant/stress becomes higher than the reward. In a real-life scenario, however, you CANNOT have a dog that folds under pressure, it would be really dangerous for the handler and the dog. That’s why the defense drive is needed in working K9s. In simple words - dog that chases down a person with a sleeve running away: mostly prey; dog that bites a criminal who tries to kick him head-on: defense drive.

So while it looks similar, the dogs are biting out of very different motivations in a sport/IPO and real life / working K9 setting.
I don’t actually think it’s a very smart thing for civilians/sports clubs to work with a lot of defense drive, or to adopt out retired police dogs to anything but very experienced homes that have a good understanding of these dogs and know how to recognize drives.

Unfortunately Cascade is right that police dogs are not always the most stable and best trained. That article about the cop dog is Calgary gives a few indicators for that. For one, it sounds like these dogs are sourced from a breeder in Europe, then get trained in the US, then get sold through a broker. That means that there are already three parties involved with an economic interest: the breeder, the trainer and the broker. As Cascade mentioned, pair that with the limited budget of most municipalities and chances are the police will not buy the best of the best. On top of that, it sounds like the handler is not involved with either the socialization or the basic training of the dog, which imo would be really important to understand how the dog works.
Another sentence that stood out was the experienced dog handler saying he wasn’t sure whether “they do call-offs anymore”. That means once the dog is deployed, there is no way to get him back.

In the end, it all depends on what you want. It’s not that hard to get a dog with a suitable temperament to bite HARD in defense. If you want a dog that lives in a kennel, is taken out muzzled and on a short tether, and the moment the muzzle comes off the dog goes after anything that moves, that is achievable. Seems to be the goal in some militaries.
But in a police dog that works more complex scenarios - e.g. crowd control - you need more balanced drives.

Then there are the dogs that make their own decisions on what is a threat and what isn’t, livestock guardian breeds come to mind. They are not particularly suited to working very closely with their handler and doing disciplined and precise obedience, cause they live with the herd and make their own decisions. If I had to name a group of dog breeds that makes me feel uneasy, it would be LSGs. I see the utility of these dogs, but I dread it every time I have a run in with them. Doesn’t mean I think they should be banned, they are useful to many farmers here, but they most certainly have the potential to kill any dog that comes too close to their herd (and will).

I’ve dabbled in different SchH/IPO clubs in Germany and Canada, as well as trained with hunting dog trainers and Search & Rescue teams. Not because I wanted a “biting dog”, but because I had a good, but difficult dog at the time and wanted to learn all I could to be a better handler.
I never actually had a dog suitable for bite work, so I never did any of that, but I think spending A LOT of time on the training field watching dogs and handlers has given me a better understanding of drives and motivations in dogs, and how to work with them.

My favorite was always tracking and retrieving in ‘real life’ settings. It is always different and often requires you to read your dog correctly for success.

I don’t actually believe in “ramping up” Pit Bull type dogs. I think a good Pit Bull type dog gains little from that exercise. The dog will already bring a “no quit” attitude to the table naturally, you don’t need a ton of crazy drive for a dog like that to work for you. Take tracking for example. If you do a very loooong track in difficult conditions, it is really hard to keep a dog that works off high prey drive amped up enough to finish it with motivation. If you have a dog that naturally gets motivation out of finishing what he starts, all you need is to make sure your dog understands what you are asking for and a little bit of drive to convince him it’s a good idea to start :). I think that’s why it seems to many people that are used to the traditional working breeds that Pit Bull type dogs seem to lack drive. But really, they just get motivated differently than a sheperd.
Anyways, that’s far from the original topic now. But that’s one of the many reasons why I love these dogs :).

DIMC, I am not ramping up my fosters to get them to work I am doing it to teach them that they can have an off switch even when ramped up. These dogs are not looking for a working home, though my foster now probably could be some sort of a working dog, they are looking for a pet home that would need an off switch.

Was just playing with her last night with this concept, got her playing hard, leaping and spinning and then asked for a down. Similar to the tug concept, stop the interaction and ask for the off.

I was very interested in what you wrote about working K9 vs the Schuetzen training. I can see a pit bull type really enjoying the Schuetzen training, it would all be a big game to them and some can be mouthy (my foster now is), but I can also see them not being able to apprehend a suspect as a working K9, they just tend to not have that defensive drive, just too friendly. I know there is a movement to pull pit bull types out of shelters and train for K9, I think more detection work though than apprehension work.

Update on where the Calgary dog landed: https://www.apnews.com/7998c0461cd84d63abaecd931b5ccd64
At least it was made public.

I compare brokers and European breeding with the horse trade. For sure dogs could be poor, but I think the same dog could have ended up to someone competing and poof, it would have been presented as more. It all depends on who is giving the advice.

If I’m reading this correctly, this is from the guy who created the drive system.

He doesn’t take prey drive lightly: http://www.schutzhundvillage.com/drives.html
“Author’s note: Considering the serious effects the end result of this drive would have on a prey animal, I do not subscribe to the idea that prey work is only a silly game.”

I have a neighbor with a boxer that attacks everyone and even went after a Doberman. She’s the one I blame. She’s a moron and shouldn’t have a dog. I can’t blame the dog, but it is paying for her stupidity.

Did you catch where the Canadian dog has already escaped from his new handler? Glad I’m not living around there.

I admit to being impressed they noted that. Maybe they had to. If you ever had dog with ability learn to escape and scale fences, it’s a nightmare in how clever they become. Granted, they knew this, going in.

I read the follow up article about the Calgary dog attack. Vohne Liche kennels that trained, retrained, and supplied the dog in the Calgary bite, was shown on the Nat Geo Wild Alpha Dog reality show about training working dogs-they supply some dogs for cadaver, drugs, protection, and other working purposes. They also train for the military.

They’ve certainly had to escape proof the kennel didn’t they?

[QUOTE=skyon;8907539]
Update on where the Calgary dog landed: https://www.apnews.com/7998c0461cd84d63abaecd931b5ccd64
At least it was made public.

I compare brokers and European breeding with the horse trade. For sure dogs could be poor, but I think the same dog could have ended up to someone competing and poof, it would have been presented as more. It all depends on who is giving the advice.

If I’m reading this correctly, this is from the guy who created the drive system.

He doesn’t take prey drive lightly: http://www.schutzhundvillage.com/drives.html
“Author’s note: Considering the serious effects the end result of this drive would have on a prey animal, I do not subscribe to the idea that prey work is only a silly game.”[/QUOTE]

It sounds like that police dog might be a capable dog, good at what he is meant to do, just a little difficult to contain.

I never said to take prey drive lightly. That’s why I’m not particularly keen on “ramping up” dogs. But it is a basic trait of a predator. It is present in most dog breeds in some form or another. Every time you throw a ball and your dog runs after it, that’s your dog’s prey drive at work. Even the herding of Border Collies is a modified version of prey drive. Every time you play tug with your dog and stare at him / lean over him and he growls, you are even taking it beyond prey drive. That being said, in the vast majority of cases nothing bad happens when you do that.

Now you can try to reduce any drive as much as possible by breeding it out and suppressing it in training, but imo you won’t have much ‘dog’ left at the end of that. Or you can try to work with it, find it a framework where it’s appropriate, and make it useful.

Helmut Raiser was not stupid, but in his training methods he leans very heavily on control and suppressing unwanted behaviors by negative reinforcement/ negative punishing. Similar to where Cesar Millan comes from (in attitude, not training methods).
To me, Helmut Raiser’s training methods are borderline abusive (and in some instances well past the borderline). They work to some degree, but always have the risk associated that a) the dog will work from a point of being forced and will evade when he gets a chance (which makes him unreliable) and b) that the dog builds frustration and resentment which will unload at some point. That’s why these types of handlers generally don’t get along very well with high drive dogs that can’t handle pressure well (like many modern IPO sport dogs), and go through a lot of dogs till they find one that can.

It’s a big topic with lots of discussion and little consent, even within the sport and working dog community - what is the right balance for drives and nerves?

I do appreciate that you are reading up on it and educating yourself, even if your conclusion is a different one from mine. I think that’s the only way to have a good discussion.

[QUOTE=DogIsMyCopilot;8907039]

In the end, it all depends on what you want. It’s not that hard to get a dog with a suitable temperament to bite HARD in defense. If you want a dog that lives in a kennel, is taken out muzzled and on a short tether, and the moment the muzzle comes off the dog goes after anything that moves, that is achievable. Seems to be the goal in some militaries.[/QUOTE]

Yes, we regularly patched up handlers from some of the militaries (and contractors) who didn’t deploy integral med assets to Agfhanistan. Those dogs were pure weapons, and they’d bite their handler no problem unless handled super carefully.
Dogs like that need to be retired within a secure facility, or destroyed after they’re no longer usable.

The explosives dogs OTOH were pretty pleasant.

[QUOTE=JanM;8907662]
I read the follow up article about the Calgary dog attack. Vohne Liche kennels that trained, retrained, and supplied the dog in the Calgary bite, was shown on the Nat Geo Wild Alpha Dog reality show about training working dogs-they supply some dogs for cadaver, drugs, protection, and other working purposes. They also train for the military.

They’ve certainly had to escape proof the kennel didn’t they?[/QUOTE]

Ah, Vohne Liche. Lovely.

One of their affiliates was training a dog that ate their kid:

http://host.madison.com/wsj/news/local/dog-that-killed-boy-was-being-trained-for-personal-protection/article_e3562109-7e58-56dc-83e7-eb28642d85d5.html

They were training a dog to attack people, and left it unsupervised with their child. And seemed surprised.

So many “dog people” DON’T GET IT.

[QUOTE=rugbygirl;8907795]
They were training a dog to attack people, and left it unsupervised with their child. And seemed surprised.

So many “dog people” DON’T GET IT.[/QUOTE]

Ah well. They still feature a small child alone with one of the “protection” dogs on their new site:
http://www.jessiffany.com/

Friendly family pet. 98% certain it won’t eat your kid.

I have a real problem with the concept of a “battle buddy.” The dog is a weapon, from what I can tell.

[QUOTE=rugbygirl;8907821]
I have a real problem with the concept of a “battle buddy.” The dog is a weapon, from what I can tell.[/QUOTE]

The description has it doing service-dog things.

BUT the dog that ate their own kid was also variously described as a “service dog”. I suspect they’re cross-training the thing, or putting some servicey training onto protection-trained dogs.