Redoing two stall fronts and partition. The fronts will be 2x6 t&g southern pine attached to face of posts. Is it better to nail or screw these to the posts? What size type of nail or screw?
Thank you
Are they being placed on the inside of the stall or the outside?
outside
Screws.
Hold better and easier to remove if/when needed.
Then I would use these. An Impact Driver will make it a lot easier and short work of it. These have very good shear strength and a nice finished look.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-10-3-in-Star-Flat-Head-Wood-Screws-1-lb-Pack-116004/205142653
Or something of the like
These are construction screws. Not Deck screws. There is a difference
Do not use deck screws as some people do and or suggest. They have poor shear strength IME.
If the boards were on the inside of the post I would most likely just nail them using spiral ring nails. Much quicker. No worries of them coming loose when a horse leans on them.
Edit, linked to the wrong screw, sorry OP hope you didn’t run out and buy them. Link has been changed.
Thank you both
Screws.
Another Screw-y vote. IME, even nails put on with a pneumatic device eventually work their way out.
Screws…and the right type of screws, such as coated deck screws. Do NOT us “drywall screws”.
We always use the star bit screws. Much easier to work with and they don’t strip out.
I’m a square drive/Robertson drive fan myself for the same reason, tobruk. I don’t go near Phillips head screws unless there’s no other choice…or if it’s for drywall work where the screws are supposed to strip out. 
[QUOTE=SuckerForHorses;8759395]
Screws.
Hold better and easier to remove if/when needed.[/QUOTE]
Agree.
[QUOTE=Jim_in_PA;8761132]
Screws…and the right type of screws, such as coated deck screws. Do NOT us “drywall screws”.[/QUOTE]
As I said above do not use Deck Screws they are not designed for this purpose. I assume you know what I meant by lacking in “shear strength”. They are designed “engineered” to hold a board on a flat surface that is not subjected to much if any “torque”, movement.
The screw I linked to are the ones that should be used
I know what I am talking about. Got that T-shirt. They break easily when used to hold fence boards etc. They are definitely better than drywall screws but don’t compare in holding strength to the ones I linked to.
[QUOTE=tobruk;8761145]
We always use the star bit screws. Much easier to work with and they don’t strip out.[/QUOTE]
100% agree. I linked to the wrong screw. But some types of screws I like to use still only come with Philip’s head. But rarely have problems sinking them home with an Impact driver, even long ones in oak.
Impact Driver are worth every dollar they cost. Even the inexpensive ones that can be had from Harbor Freight.
[QUOTE=Hermein;8760901]
Another Screw-y vote. IME, even nails put on with a pneumatic device eventually work their way out.[/QUOTE]
While I don’t disagree in general. But boards attached to the inside of the stall post are being “held” in place by the post. The post will have to be moved by a horse “leaning” on and or scratching its butt before the boards comes loose.
Unless the boards are extremely long and can be “flexed”. In this case the middle of the boards should be “strapped” together. Better to use 2X8 T&G stall boards if they can be had.
If being nailed which is quicker I would only as I said use rink shanked nails. Not 16 common framing nails. I have rarely found rink shank nails to pop, come loose. They can be pretty difficult to pull out when needed.
I also only use aluminum for exterior. But these will bend very easily when being driving by a hammer not striking the nail just right each time. Even for those of us who are pretty experienced.
I would not recommend using a light weight hammer. Most people have/use a 16 oz. I prefer at least a 20 oz more like a 24+oz for the bigger nails.
The OP did ask “What size type of nail or screw?”
So even though people have taken the time to comment the question was not answered by just saying “screws”.
I gave reasons why not to use Deck Screws based on my experience. Though in all fairness in this particular application they would work well enough if nothing else was available. But there are better to be had easy enough.
Using 2X6 material I would only use 2 screws/nails in each board. Not to close to the edge nor to close to each other. Try not to over-drive either. Pine splits pretty easily on the butt edges.
Size IMO and experience the screws should be #10 wood, 3" long, though 2 1/2 might long enough. They should be made/rated for exterior “construction”. Star drive preferred.
Nails for this type of application/framing would suite also IMO and experience. They should be ring/spiral shank 3 1/2" 16 exterior. If the OP does not have an Impact driver or a drill driver that has a “screw” setting I would suggest nailing.
I am open to suggestion. Always like to see/read what other brands/types have been used and stood the test of time.
I’ve used lag screws for the same sort of thing. They work quite well and I haven’t had one break or rust out yet. Impact driver makes installing them a lot easier.
Vote for lag screw too. Easy to install, we always pre drilled the holes and they went right in.
We went between the posts so the tongue and groove boards were flush with the post front. We used angle iron on the inside and used lag bolts (screws) on the inside so there were no fasteners showing on the outside. It was a PITA to drill all the holes in the angle, but the lags were easy to install with an impact driver. Lags are stronger than nails or common screws.
1/4" or 3/8 lags will certainly hold things in place. But if the posts are well secured a bit of overkill IMO and experience. Especially when using 2X6.
The #10 construction screws I referenced are plenty strong enough for the application/job. Less work/labor also.
Not that the boards will be seen by many being inside the stall. But I would see them and I really don’t like the “industrial look” of the bolt heads. I like a more finished look. Unless the heads are recessed there is a chance, small chance of a horse scraping/cutting itself on the exposed heads. Murphy’s law kicks in at times.
