I had thought the brass colored weren’t rated for exterior use? You’ve not experienced any problems with that? We’re considering screws as we wait for our boards to be sawn… Have heard we may never be able to get the boards OFF if we go spiral or ring shanked 16D 3.125" nails. Which is nice until you have a repair or similar needed.
If we go screws - can an impact driver get the job done without predrilling?
I would think his is totally area specific. In areas that "board " fencing rules, oak board fencing. The only kind I would spend the money on. Rough cut oak fence boards are milled for just that, fence boards. The standard for decades if not longer is around 16-2 feet. From the mill to the fence supplier. Around $8 per board the last time I bought a bunch several years ago. 10% discount in quantity. The other type of fencing in my neck of the woods is slip board oak as I pictured above. These are 12 ft. By the linear foot they are more expensive. As they should be, more cuts have to be made by the mill.
I would do the math before going with shorter boards. More posts, more boards, more work.
First regardless of what “screw” is used. I wouldn’t use screws for putting up fence boards, period. I pointed out the additional and time and considerable cost of using screws. A perfect example of the term, “rule of diminishing returns”. I have put up a LOT of fencing. I have only used screws to replace the odd broken board from time to time. Those board IME have been in the normal wear and tear area that horses tend to hang out in. It saves the time of having to predrill and nail. Good chance the same boards may need to be replaced at some time.
If using an impact drive you do not need to pre-drill. If you really want to screw an entire fence line. As I said in an earlier comment you will need to have have several batteries and 2 chargers. If you want to keep moving along and get the job done quickly. One battery and one charger, for every 20+ minutes of screwing you will have an 1 hour of waiting for that battery to recharge. Do the math. I guess I value my free time more than others.
If properly installed why would you worry about the hassle of being able to get the boards off? I have have spent a life time off and on working with oak board fencing. It is not much of a maintenance hassle.Once a year I go around with a hammer, inspect the board for “pulled/popped”’ nails. Hammer back in. Doesn’t take much time.
I posted pictures of a fence line that is over 15 years old. I posted pictures of a fence line materials that was taken down and being reinstalled in another location. I used a Saw-Sall and cut the nails off flush with the posts.
Yes, the nails of a broken board are a PITA to pull out. But if you use a “nail bar” it doesn’t take much effort. Or just bend them back and forth to brake them off flush to the post. As I said, we’re not making, repairing furniture.
As to brass construction screws not being “rated” for exterior use. That is for the code police, engineers. We’re putting up fencing, not a house. They have MUCH better shear strength then “deck” screw as I explained. I know this from experience. I have also built houses, soup to nuts, myself.
If people want to screw fence boards fine. To each their own. IME they DO NOT warrant the considerable extra work and expense verses spiral nails using a nail gun. I own the T-shirts to state this as fact.
#24 reported
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