Neck rope riding.

I am sure there are many ways to ride with a neck rope to help communicate with a horse in place of something on it’s head.

I will explain one way we have been doing so for many years.

First, the idea is to see how far along a horse is in understanding our aids and how independent of the reins a rider is communicating, with truly independent seat and leg aids.

We may or not keep the halter/bosal/bit on the horse’s head, reins drapey if we do, generally caught under my thigh.

Whatever we use, it is imperative that we always have it loose, it is active as a light touch or bump and instantaneous release, not a constant contact with the loop and not in any way something to pull on.
Why?
That may give opposite signals, as in pulling high on the neck with force as some do, to get the horse to go to the right, the pull may be a bit more under the neck and so the horse would think it needs to elevate the neck even more.

Learning to use a neck rope properly also teaches the rider how it will need to handle a hackamore rein, a similar principle for both.
They are purely to signal with, not in any way to pull on the horse with either of them.
We are training the mind of the horse to listen to all of our body, the signal with the hackamore or neck rope will eventually be phased out and riding will be off our other aids only, without even a neck rope.

We first use a thick soft cotton rope to teach a horse in a way it can feel we are doing something over a larger surface than something thinner would be.
Some horses catch on so fast, you can go to a thinner string in one session, others better stick with the thicker rope for a bit longer.

Once a horse is trained to a neck rope, many like to use a stiffer pigging string or a loosely twisted double baling wire loop, also called then “riding to the wire” when exhibition with those.
The advantage of those two is that it stays in a rather round shape and loose so easily, facilitating the lightest of touch with them, a bit like if what we are touching them with was a pointer, easier to touch here and there in a more specific way.
The advantage of the loop of wire is that is very much invisible to spectators, that is why in exhibitions it is the preferred tool for neck rope riding without anything on a horse’s head.

At first, when the rider is learning, it is best to have something on the horse’s head so if the horse is at times confused, the reins may be picked up and used as a second signal.

Generally, by the time a horse or rider are working off a neck rope, the horse, even a colt with just a few rides, should be handy enough to catch on quickly to what we are trying to communicate.

Hope that helps those think about all this and experiment themselves.
Then let us know what your experiences show you.

Do it all the time with a 1/4" string. Love it because it lets the horse place his head where he needs it for balance. Also lets me see where the horse wants / needs his head for balance.

[QUOTE=airhorse;7582352]
Do it all the time with a 1/4" string. Love it because it lets the horse place his head where he needs it for balance. Also lets me see where the horse wants / needs his head for balance.[/QUOTE]

Right, also I forgot to say to not overdo it, because a horse is not getting that much and exact communication, so it is better to do it to check where we are in our training and then train with all we can use to help us and our horses communicate best while learning, especially new stuff.

Freddie Knie used to perform all kinds of true dressage, “high school” and trick movements without anything on a horse every day in their performances, but he trained with any and all, to keep the horse performing steadily.

Reining free styles are at times performed without a bridle, with or without a neck rope, but practically all training is done with it, as most horses have a tendency to lose collection, the more we ride without something on their heads, to help check and direct all that energy coming from behind.
Now, if someone is just cruising along without real work, then the horse gets bored eventually and, again, tends to fall onto the forehand.

Work intensely for a bit, then cruise along or rest for a bit.
Alternating this with a little work without a bridle helps a horse to become very “handy” in a hurry, while also teaching it to wait for the rider and chill out when indicated.

Self carriage with a rider is tiresome for a horse.
Always remember to quit while the horse is still fresh and wanting to work.

I always ride with the string around their neck, I use it occasionally.

I catch, lead, groom, and tack up with just the string on them.