My horse is very hard to fit… I’ve tried multiple saddles but honestly this is the closet thing I’ve found to fit him. It’s a schleese 17 adjustable wools saddle currently set to wide.
From what I can see, it looks ok. But I would make entirely sure that the panel is totally free of the scapula, it seems the saddle could be moved back a hair.
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Caveat: not a saddle fitter. But I agree with the above in that I’d slide it back a hair. Tried and true method for this is to put the saddle on ungirthed and push gently on the pommel until it stops wanting to slide back. That’s the spot the saddle should sit.
Also, that last pic shows the front panels aren’t sitting well on the shoulder, you can see the panel is a straight angle out that doesn’t conform to the curve of the shoulder. My understanding is that for a new saddle, this MIGHT be okay and need breaking in if you’re absolutely sure the tree and shape all fits but is a sign that the saddle may be too A frame or narrow at the top for the shoulder conformation.
I’m happy to be corrected by more knowledgeable people, but that’s been my cursory understanding.
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Ideally, I’d like the wither to have a little bit more room but that wouldn’t be a dealbreaker for me as long as the horse isn’t being pinched. When you are riding and posting the trot, stick your fingers over the wither and if your finger isn’t getting pinched it’s okay.
I am a little worried about the red spot I circled, but this might be corrected when you’re in the saddle because your knee goes right there. I would tighten the girth about half the amount you do to ride, then stick your fingers under the panel at the top and go down the scapula where the saddle hits. Feel for any points of high pressure where I’ve circled in green. It should all feel like the same amount of pressure from the saddle.
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It’s either a bit too narrow, or a bit too far forward, and for now I heavily lean towards too far forward.
if you put a pencil across the seat, you’ll see that it settles behind the mid-point, which means it’s a bit pommel high.
I’d slide it back a good inch and take new pics.
I agree with this and that the saddle is a tad too far forward. In the photo where you are riding, the saddle is putting you toward the cantle, which could result in soreness over the loins (and put you a bit behind the motion). This is likely caused because the saddle is pommel high right now. If it’s level, your balance will be better too.
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How do these look! I tried my best to get him square. This is wool saddle so adjustments can be made too
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I have struggled with fitting some of mine over the years but that fit looks decent to me?
How does the horse go in it? How do you feel when riding in it?
I’m not crazy about the angle over the shoulder. The panel doesn’t follow the horse’s natural shape. Certainly it sits better on his back but you may end up with some soreness under the tree points.
Yes I’m concerned it’s going to pinch him. I think I’m going to try out another saddle from a brand called Kent and masters, I’m hoping that will work out. At this point I want to jump of a bridge everything I have gotten doesn’t work and the fitters I’ve used haven’t been much help.
Me either. Looks like this is girthed as well, so double up my worry that the panels and points don’t quite match the horse.
Not a fitter - I just prefer the lines and angles of the saddle to match the horse.
Kent & Masters makes a nice saddle. There are so many variables to saddle fit, it can sometimes feel like a miracle when you find one that works.
Are you talking about the gap at the very bottom where it doesn’t touch? Is there a gap at the top by the wither? I can’t tell but always wanting to learn.
Yes, there’s that. The angle of the panels does not match the angle of your horse. But the position of the tree points is also concentrating pressure over the trapezius muscle (higher up on the withers) which can restrict the movement of the shoulder and cause atrophy. I marked up your photo a bit and put a circle around the area where the saddle will likely cause pressure. That will be exacerbated when jumping because the pressure from the stirrup bars will drive the tree points into the trapezius.
I am not a saddle fitter so please take my thoughts with a large pinch of salt. I’ve just spent a lot of time watching fitters work on my horses.
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Thank you. I can see with the lines you drew that it does not fit like it should. If we had lines like that when we put the saddle on in person it would be easier to see!
I now remember when I found a Duett for my barrel shaped mare how it just seemed to form itself around her and when I rode in it you could just feel her go " ahhhhhhhhh". It was wonderful to experience.
From my experience with saddle fit you need to look at:
- Is the saddle balanced front to back (if you put a marble on the seat would it roll to the middle?), not pommel high or cantle high.
- Is there enough withers clearance, including the area around the sides of the withers. The shape of the pommel and the position of the tree points (some are longer, some are shorter) will determine how the saddle rests on the trapezius.
- Is the shape of the tree right for the horse’s back? Some are flatter, some are more curved
- Do the panels fit the horse’s shape?
- Does the horse like the fit? I’ve had saddles that the saddle fitters all loved but the horse hated and vice versa. The horse is the ultimate judge.
Good luck!
This is one area I caution against using, as the design of the saddle can make one higher than the other, even if it is a glove fit. I really look at the pencil across the seat, and want to see it in the middle of the seat.
Very true. It’s the seat that needs to be parallel to the ground. If the saddle tips you forward or backward it will change YOUR balance and likely be uncomfortable for the horse. Many of the saddles I see are too narrow, which usually means they are pommel high and they put the rider behind the motion. Or they’re placed too far forward, which can also make them pommel high.
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This makes it so clear to see. Thank you!
