new question: overseeding a crabgrass filled paddock

[kcmel]

I posted a thread on re-seeding a ~2 acre paddock after killing off the crabgrass. Several suggested I overseed with a cool season grass such as ryegrass. That way I would have grass earlier in the spring and in the fall, and just go with the crabgrass in the summer.

What is the best way to go about this? I know we would cut the crabgrass as short as possible. Typically when we overseed we use a tine harrow then broadcast seed and then roll. But I don’t think we get a very high germination rate. Is there a better way?

Or does anyone have any other ideas on getting a better mixture of grasses in this paddock?

Thanks!

Here is the seed I was thinking of, a mixture of ryegrass and tall fescue.

http://www.rohrerseeds.com/HAY-DIVERSION-MIXTURE-50-LB/item/7515750

[jawa]

Your local extension agent would have some good tips/ideas for your area.

You will get the most bang for your buck if you drill the seed. Many ext offices have a planter you can rent to get your project done.

[neversaynever]

The planting depth for both annual ryegrass and fescue is about 1/4 inch. If you plant something like a small grain with the ryegrass, you would want to drill the grain and broadcast the ryegrass because of the difference in seed depth.

We’ve done both seed drill and broadcast for a mixture of ryegrass and fescue. The seed drill usually results in better germination. We broadcast smaller areas or when we don’t want to spend the extra to hire someone to drill. It takes a minimum 50 hp tractor with rear hydraulics for the drills available through our local FSA and that’s for flatter areas. More hp is required for hills. When broadcasting, we increase the rate by about 30% and also use the tine harrow before and after to try to get the best seed to soil contact. We don’t have a roller (wish we did) but the tractor wheels or dragging with the tines up help. Application of nitrogen at planting or soon after will give the plants a little extra omphf.

We usually get good germination if the weather gods cooperate. We have drilled and broadcast before what was supposed to be a nice steady rain that ended up being a gully washer. Another time, it did not rain for weeks and the birds, etc. ate a lot of the seed before it could get started.

[goodhors]

I cover my seed as explained in that other post of yours. I drag after seeding, but spread old hay, straw, floor sweepings and daily bedding as seed coverings on the fields. Not appealing to horses grazing in those fields, prevents birds eating seeds, holds moisture in the soil as seedling takes hold, but not making it mud.

I get excellent seed germination using mixed seeds of bluegrass, timothy, orchard grasses and festuoliums in my mix. These grasses and plants will each have a “best time” of grazing production during the whole span of warm weather. This is similar to what I buy, has no fescue, gives a diversity of plants for grazing all season. Does cost more than your choice.

http://www.rohrerseeds.com/HORSE-PASTURE-MIXTURE-50-LB/item/7550050

You might save on the fescue, just buying plain fescue seed. The endophyte free stuff doesn’t stay that way long in the fields. It gets cross contaminated with other fescues in your area, so no real advantage to paying extra for the endophyte free seed. Make sure what you buy is perennial, not annual seed, so the plants keep returning each year. Some friends bought “bargin priced” seed, which turned out to all be annual grass seeds, only grew one year. Have to read the labels closely!

Diversity of plants is your friend in seeding, in case one kind of grazing doesn’t work well this year. Too hot or too cold, too wet or dry, so one type is not doing as well as expected. Animals still can graze on the other types of grass or plants in the seed mix to fill up on. Mowing keeps pastures coming on all season. If grass sets seed, it will go dormant for the rest of the season. His job of reproduction is done, no need to keep growing with seeds set and dried to spread itself. He will be back NEXT year!

[kcmel]

Thanks goodhors. We have tried that pasture mix before and it hasn’t done so well. In the description it says it does better where there is less chance of stress. And endophyte free doesn’t really matter to us since we have geldings, so maybe I will look around for some cheaper fescue.

[danacat]

After an exhaustive search of ‘over seeding’ tactics, I found an article that stated you can get great results by over seeding in winter - yes winter - but late in the winter, right before the last few snowfalls. The grass seed will stay dormant, and as the snow melts it will work the seed into the soil. No need for drilling or rolling.

I wanted to try this last winter. I waited for snow but we didn’t get any! I over seeded anyway-- hoping that rain/freeze/thaw would work. And get we didn’t get much rain either! Kept horses off that particular pasture until well into the spring. Then drought! I’m going to try again this winter.

[JB]

Frost sewing - what you described - can work well IF you have enough moisture during the Spring and into the heat of Summer to sustain the growth and shallower root system.

[fourfillies]

Crabgrass here in PA is fairly palatable and resilient esp in summers like this one, hot and dry. I’ve had good luck freeze fracturing/frost sowing cool season rye in your situation. And, it’s cheap and easy.

[dog_amp_horsemom]

Just be careful grazing on rye - very high in sugar - very possible to founder on it.