New Stock Trailer - Rivets Sticking Out?

[firecracker]

We recently purchased a small stock trailer to use for hauling goats and a small pony. Most of my trailer experience has been with actual horse trailers – my last trailer was a Brenderup. This is my first experience buying a stock trailer. It just arrived and I went to pick it up, but during the walk-through, I noticed a bunch of exposed rivets sticking out in the front of the trailer, on the interior. Perhaps this is not unusual in a stock trailer…? To me, it looks like an accident waiting to happen if small animals are hauled loose and somebody gets crowded or pushed into the front of the trailer.

So… two questions. Is this normal for a new trailer coming straight from the manufacturer? If yes, what is typically done to cap or cover these rivets, or do you just cross your fingers and toes and hope and pray that the animals steer clear of the pokey points?

The sales rep that did the walk-through with me said he’d speak with his team to see what they can do. For now, the trailer is remaining on-site and I hope to hear from them soon, but in the meantime I wanted to do some research and see if I can figure out a plan of action in case their response is that it is what it is.

[wsmoak]

What are the rivets securing on the other side? Diamond plate I assume? I agree, exposed pokey things are not acceptable on the inside.

There are solid rivets that would be smooth on the back, but it requires more labor to install. Basically would take two people, one on the inside. https://www.amazon.com/Brazier-Solid-Aluminum-Rivet-Length/dp/B0040D2PSS/ref=asc_df_B0040D2PSS/

And I might do them “backwards” so that the head of the rivet is on the inside, depending on how much you care how the outside looks.

Or they could use some kind of chicago screw / t-nut that is smooth on both sides. Or a regular bolt and acorn nut, but that will still stick out a bit.

But if this were my trailer… I believe I would “fix” this by adding a rubber mat to that curved front wall. The rivets will just help it stay in place after they get embedded in it.

[firecracker]

Yep, Diamond plate. It looks like everything in the front section is secured to the trailer’s metal body using these rivets (diamond plate, vents, etc). Here’s a shot of the outside:

Love your rubber mat idea, I may look into that if the trailer dealer doesn’t have a better solution they can offer! Thank you!

[firecracker]

The guy I spoke with mentioned that it might be possible to grind down the pokeys to get them flush with the walls, or at least very close to it, but he was worried it might compromise the strength of the rivets. I suppose we shall see what they say after he’s had a chance to discuss it further with his team!

[wsmoak]

Those are pop rivets or blind rivets. They are meant for use where there is limited or no access to the back side. (Which is not the case here!) They’re just easy because one person can operate the tool. They are not an appropriate choice for this installation.

If you just grind off the part that is sticking out the back, the front side will fall out. You’d have to squash it somehow to make it smooth and flat so it can’t pull through – and that’s a different type of rivet, the solid kind I linked to.

Here’s a video of how to choose and install them, showing how nice and smooth they are https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8sGArSHayY

Even with my custom built Exiss I had to fix some things – specifically they used cotter keys on the hinge pins and they were sharp sticking out on every door. I had to bend and twist them all out and then replace them with stainless steel split rings.

200702_7260 by Wendy, on Flickr

Lots of hardware choices for you here! And honestly unless those rivets are stainless, they’re going to rust and you’ll be replacing them at some point anyway.

[firecracker]

Thanks so much @wsmoak!! Just watched the video, it was very helpful. For a while I made custom dog collars using rivets and beta biothane material, so I’ve only had hands-on experience with the little double cap rivets I used for that. I have lots to learn about the types of rivets used in trailers!

I think I’ll call the trailer place today and see if they can replace the pokey rivets with solid rivets. Normally I’d be up for tackling a project like this myself (luckily I have a significant other I can use as a second person to help with the project), but right now we have a gazillion things going on all at once and not a lot of spare time. If the trailer dealer can’t do it… perhaps we’ll tackle replacing the rivets ourselves at some point down the line and put a strip of rubber mat up temporarily to keep critters safe 'till then.

Thanks again, this has been super helpful and I really appreciate you taking the time to point me in the right direction!

[grinanride]

Yep - that is totally normal or typical for single wall steel combo trailers - a nice daub ( if that is a word ) of silicone caulk will do the trick - then run a bead on the outside at the edge of the diamond plate to keep water from getting between the wall and gravel guard and another bead across the top front trim piece
Risa
HappyTrailsTrailers.com
BalancedRideTrailers.com

[firecracker]

Thanks Risa! I talked to the dealer yesterday about replacing the rivets and they said it would likely void the warranty on the trailer. So I gave the manufacturer a call, and they recommended the exact same thing as you - to put a daub (definitely a word ) of silicone caulk over the rivets. Won’t look quite as nice as smooth rivets would, but it’ll be a quick and easy fix, it won’t affect the warranty, and it’ll make it safe for the small livestock we’ll be hauling. Thanks for the tip to run a bead on the edge of the diamond plate and the front trim, I’ll definitely get that done while I have the caulk out!

And I’ve filed away all the information about solid rivets for potential future projects.

[clanter]

so I got to wondering about our trailer that is a 15 year old steel two horse bump pull

It has the diamond plate rock guards…there no exposed fasteners on either the outside or the inside…none. The fasteners on the exterior are flush to diamond plate, the fasteners attachment points are to the structural frame tubing locations so the fastener is contained within the frame.

As for that statement of changing the fastener would void the warranty, that just kind makes me go WHAT? as that fastener has nothing to do with structural integrity.

How about asking them for a letter of them accepting the responsibility for injuries caused by the fastener.

[trubandloki]

In a situation like this I think ‘that will void your warranty’ is their way of saying ‘yes, this sucks but we are not willing to fix it for you’.

[wsmoak]

@clanter

The fasteners on the exterior are flush to diamond plate, the fasteners attachment points are to the structural frame tubing locations so the fastener is contained within the frame.

And that is exactly when using blind rivets is necessary and appropriate, because there is no access to the back side.

A blob of silicone over the pokey bits is probably fine for goats. Well, unless they nibble it off.

Hopefully that will allow you to take delivery and start using your new trailer!

[firecracker]

@clanter

As for that statement of changing the fastener would void the warranty, that just kind makes me go WHAT? as that fastener has nothing to do with structural integrity.

How about asking them for a letter of them accepting the responsibility for injuries caused by the fastener.

Made me go “WHAT?!” too. Pretty sure it’s as @trubandloki said - they just don’t want to deal with it. The dealer said they sell hundreds of these trailers and nobody has ever complained about the rivets before, which seems absolutely crazy to me. He explained that this is what you get with a less expensive stock trailer, as opposed to a horse trailer where the interior will be finished with much more care. Again, seems crazy… just because it isn’t designed to haul horses doesn’t mean it should have rivets poking out on the interior, in my opinion. Pretty sure the rivets left as-is would injure any livestock that is pushed/crowded up into the front of trailer. But I suppose it is what it is.

This is one of those situations where I’m going to pick and choose my battles… the more I push, the more frustrating it is getting for all parties involved. I’m sure if I asked for a letter as mentioned above, it would not go over well with the dealer or the manufacturer, and this is not a hill I am willing to die on since I can fairly easily fix up the trailer myself to make it safe.

[firecracker]

For anyone that’s curious, this is a W-W All Around stock trailer. I always thought of W-W as a solid company and I didn’t think I would have issues with plainly poor craftsmanship. They aren’t fancy trailers by any means, very basic, but built well based on my previous experiences with them. Many years ago I owned a little W-W two horse straight load and never had any issues with it.

Oh well… you live and you learn. I needed this trailer like yesterday so at this point I plan to pick it up, fix it up, and move on.

[grinanride]

Just as an FYI - the diamond plate is likely very thin likely an .030 maybe less - could be installed using 3M VHD tape and maybe 2 rivets per side - BUT - the tape costs more in time and labor
Enjoy your trailer!
Risa

[Texarkana]

OP, I have a steel stock trailer of a different brand. While I don’t have rivet problems like that on the front diamond plate, there are other design flaws that weren’t made with animals in mind. For example, the bracket to hang the license plate is on the back door and has pokey bolts right at leg height I couldn’t replace easily or cut down. I added a second nut to cover the point, then did a daub of caulk and duct tape over top the same color as my trailer paint.

Some of these steel stock trailer manufacturers don’t put much thought into safety of the animals being transported in their trailers.

[js]

Can you build a manger to put in that area? Gives you a storage space too.

[firecracker]

Picked up the trailer and we’re super happy with everything aside from the rivets – it’s going to be a perfect little trailer for our needs! This has been a good learning experience for me on the differences between a steel stock trailer and a trailer made specifically for horses.

Thanks again so much for all the input and ideas, they’re very much appreciated! We’ll go the silicone caulk route for a quick and easy fix, and perhaps attempt some of the suggestions in this thread when we have the time and energy to tackle a more in-depth trailer project.