At our 5 acre place we are replacing 4’ field fencing left by the previous owner with 5’ no climb woven wire. We have to make a decision between regular strength wire vs high tensile. I have read extensively on these boards the multiple warnings against high tensile wire. Most of the warnings about high tensile seem to be about single strand uncoated wire. Many have posted about how much they like the Ramm/Centaur/flex type of fence, but this is actually high tensile wire that has been coated. My question: is high tensile no climb fencing also unsafe? Are there other advantages/disadvantages to high tensile no climb vs regular strength?
I would add here - we are talking about the regular no climb with 2 x 4" squares and the S knot.
How about a picture of what you’re looking at?
G.
I did not know there was such a thing as high tensile no climb. I know you need to stretch the no climb, is that what you mean? Otherwise it sags.
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See page 20-21 of the Bekaert catalog here:
Bekaert, Red Brand and Rangemaster all offer versions of no climb made of either high tensile or low carbon wire. Bekart’s marketing says both kinds are appropriate for horses but I was hoping to find an end user with direct experience who could comment on the differences. My next door neighbor who fenced her place with regular (low carbon) no climb thinks that since the weave of the wire is the same and the holes are only 2 x 4" it wouldn’t carry the same risk as single strand high tensile.
I re-fenced my farm pastures w/ the only type no climb available Red Brand- there was no choice of tensile or not.
It’s very strong, study, has not sagged in the 4 yrs. it’s been there. Maybe you can find out where it’s been used and look at it.
I would never used single strand high tensile since one of my young horses sliced up his leg on it at a boarding barn.
There still isn’t a choice it red Brand no climb fence. High Tensile is hot wire type of fencing.
I did not know that high tensile wire was available in no climb. I thought it was the single strand that was stretched between two posts. But now I understand and sorry but can’t comment on which is best.
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I have the entire perimeter of my property fenced in non-climb, and I swear by it. While I love the look of slip board, for example, I live in an area that is just suburban enough to have people who might decide to come and visit a horse, and that is a liability I don’t need. Make sure that you hold it about 4" off of the ground, so that you can weedeat underneath of it. When the grass grows up into it, it is unattractive (IMHO) and a serious PIA to deal with.
They don’t call it “high tensile.” They have three “grades” called Professional, High, or Standard strength. The pda link has their sales brochure in it.
G.
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I think the “warnings” about high tensile wire are specifically regarding high tensile “single strand” fencing. I would think that the high strength non-climb would be just a more durable non-climb fencing. And, if affordable, it’s probably worth upgrading so that it doesn’t stretch or sag over time, or if weeds grow on it, etc. Mine is just a standard strength and there are a few places that have sagged a bit. It’s not a big deal but the higher strength would probably hold up better over a longer period of time.
A wire mesh fence 4" off the gound is enough clearance for a horse’s leg to go underneath and cut the crap out of it. Go all the way down and spray the fencelines.
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Hmm, see, I just assumed that the other grades were heavier, and sold in bigger spools, to stand up to the installation process of stretching with either a tractor or a big pickup. And homeowners using a 2x4 and an old spouse and an old pickup could only handle the standard stuff. I’d be sure to ask about the roll size and installation requirements before taking the plunge – especially if you’re doing it yourself.
Common enough assumption!!! 
G.
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Guilherme is correct (no surprise there!)
That is not high tensile fence. High strength is not the same as high tensile. High tensile does come with some safety concerns for horses - the coated varieties are preferable, and IMO and IME, it needs to be hot to keep livestock off of it.
What you’ve linked to looks like excellent, safe horse fencing. Great choice. It it were me, I would still top it with a single board and run a strand of hotwire on the inside, but that’s just a personal preference.
I also agree that it is unwise not to run the fence flush with the ground. Spraying under the fenceline is much easier than weedeating in any case.
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We have the zinc coated no climb, and it looks brand new almost 8 years later. The older pasture had steel no climb and it’s rusting. Go with the zinc coated, you’ll be happier. Go all the way down and spray. It keeps critters out very well.
There [/TD]
[TD=“width: 61, align: center”]Regular[/TD]
[TD=“align: center”]None[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD=“align: center”][IMG]http://www.redbrand.com/Images/Class1Coating.png)[/TD]
[TD=“align: center”]Class 1[/TD]
[TD=“align: center”].28 oz/ft2[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD=“align: center”][IMG]http://www.redbrand.com/Images/Class3Coating.png)[/TD]
[TD=“align: center”]Class 3[/TD]
[TD=“align: center”].80 oz/ft2[/TD]
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[/TABLE]
[TABLE=“border: 0, cellpadding: 3, cellspacing: 0”]
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[TD=“align: left”]Galvanization Guide[/TD]
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[TD=“align: left”][IMG]http://www.redbrand.com/Images/RB.png) Red Brand® Traditional – Class 1 galvanized wire[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD=“align: left”][IMG]http://www.redbrand.com/Images/EL.png) Red Brand® Extended Life – Class 3 galvanized wire[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD=“align: left”][IMG]http://www.redbrand.com/Images/HT.png) Red Brand® High Tensile – Class 3 galvanized wire[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD=“align: left”][IMG]http://www.redbrand.com/Images/S.png)Sierra Agricultural Fence – Commercial galvanized wire[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD=“align: left”][IMG]http://www.redbrand.com/Images/CG.png) Red Brand® Commercial Galvanized wire[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Strength Terminology
Tensile strength refers to the force needed to pull one square inch of steel apart. It is measured in pounds per square inch (abbreviated PSI). ASTM 116 Standards classify tensile strength as follows:
[TABLE=“border: 0, cellpadding: 3, cellspacing: 0”]
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[TD=“width: 110, align: left”]Class[/TD]
[TD=“align: left”]Tensile Strength (PSI)[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD=“align: left”]Low Tensile[/TD]
[TD=“align: left”]60,000[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD=“align: left”]Medium Tensile[/TD]
[TD=“align: left”]125,000[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD=“align: left”]High Tensile[/TD]
[TD=“align: left”]175,000[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Break strength refers to the force needed to break a specific wire sample.
http://www.redbrand.com/FenceBasics/GalvanizationGuide.aspx
On page 21 of the Rangemaster catalog here:
http://www.rangemasterfence.com/RangemasterPocketBrochure.pdf
Horse (i.e. “no climb”) fence is offered in regular strength and high tensile. “Class 1,” “Class 3” and “Zinc” refer to the coating on the wire, not the tensile strength. I agree that zinc coating would be a better product but my question was about high tensile vs. regular strength, not the coating on the wire.
Thanks for the tip about keeping the bottom of the wire mesh flush with the ground; that is one I will use.
I think the confusion is because the term “high tensile” in the “fence world” generally refers to fencing that is single strand and tightened via “ratchets” along the fenceline, preferably at the ends/corners.
I have never purchased “high tensile” field fence (either 2x4 or 4x4) of the type you describe above. I have only purchased off the shelf, from whatever stock the local TSC or feed store carried. All the field fencing I have installed HAS been wicked tight, with tension on long runs accomplished with a puller gadget hooked to the tractor. On short runs of less than 75’ or so, I have used the good old 2x4 board method and the fence is just as tight as the one installed with the tractor providing tension.
I have had horses and full grown beef cattle “ping” off of my off-the-shelf field fence without damaging it. I have also had it withstand an EF1 tornado, 11 years after it was installed. The fence is now 18 years old, and is still as tight as day 1. I think the corner bracing and line bracing is more of a factor in strength than the “tensile” strength.
So, IMO, as long as you are not trying to contain buffalo or rhinos, I think the standard field fencing, installed properly, is sufficient.
