I was merely pointing out that some people are probably not understanding that % and * are different.
I have had a ring built, yes. I worked with a guy who (had) his own road grading equipment, as that’s what he does (did) as his main living, grading roads, but he also built/graded riding rings on the side. I have a roughly 2% (1*) slope from one long side to my other long side. I knew the arenas he built, and fixed, in my immediate area, and knew they were wonderful to ride on and were in great shape years later.
No, it’s not textbook perfect. There’s a spot along one short side that has a minor (depth) but largish (width) depression forming, so apparently something went awry with packing either the sub-base or the base. But this didn’t appear for several years, so I’m ok with that. I avoid that small area when it’s wet.
I can see my slope if I squat down and look from a short side, and that’s only 2%. Not that 5% is bad, other than contributing to more footing movement during hard rains, but it would definitely be noticeable. The more varied the slope a horse works on, the better.
A 2% slope is 2’ for every 100’ of length, and that’s what I commonly see as the ideal. That’s what mine is. Maybe it’s 1.9%, maybe it’s 2.1%, I don’t know and it doesn’t matter. You CAN go 1% if you’re crowning in the middle since there’s less water to get off the ring in a given direction. 2% would get it off faster. You don’t really need much more than that to do the job, especially since the greater it is. the more footing can be carried downhill. You can get away with less, if you’re ok with water taking longer to get off surface.
You do need that top footing to perk, as you said. That gets it down to the base which should be hard as concrete but still permeable (in the ideal world of course). Water will run across, and through, that base, to the sub-base, which really should be all but impermeable, so the water moves totally out of the ring, not sitting there waiting to have depressions form over time from above. Also, ideally.
Depending on your native soil, you may get away with less than that and have a perfectly draining arena that doesn’t have the base/sub-base (which may be the same thing) sucking the footing into it over time. Do that with clay though, and your expensive footing will be eaten in pretty short order. The point is - if you’re adding footing material on top of the native ground, you’re going to pay up front for better work, or pay later to fix and replace footing.
I envy people who can kill the top soil, drag for a week, and have a wonderfully draining sand arena that never gets too deep and drains well.
None of that is meant to be challenging. I’m just adding detail to the conversation to help others see where I was coming from in making my comments above.