Poor ground manners

Hi everyone,

I’m embarrassed to admit my coming 5 year old has poor ground manners. When I bought him as a 2 year old, he didn’t have great manners, but some of his more concerning behavior hasn’t really improved, or comes and goes, even when in full training. Granted, the training was to start him under saddle, and he is definitely better behaved with said trainer than me.

The main issues are dancing around when tied while also pawing the air, not responding to when I want him to halt in- hand, nipping when in cross ties, being a bull when being turned back out. He will speed up and try to rush past me, and shakes his head if I make him stop and wait.

I have tried positive reinforcement of calm and respectful behavior, working on woah on-hand separately, and making him stop and back up when he charges ahead. I have used the chain over his nose, and while that helps, it’s not addressing the underlying issue.

He is a smart cookie, and knows who he can push around. When I got him, he would drag the elderly barn owner around when bringing in and turning out, and even reared once when he tried to drag him away from the area he was headed towards. That being said, that was when I first bought him and he has never done that with me or anybody else. He’s great under saddle, on the lunge line , and for the farrier. Afraid of the vet, but fine once he settles. I’ve ruled out Lyme and ulcers, just in case he is physically uncomfortable.

I know this is a weak point in our training, so I’d appreciate any advice on how to work with him. I have had young horses before, and he’s the first one that has proven difficult to the methods I usually use to enforce good ground manners. Please be kind. Thanks!

He needs to be reprimanded for nipping you.

He should never be in a position to rush past you in turnout. You turn him so he is facing you and then you take off the halter so he then spins away from you.

For inhand work you should have a rope halter not web or leather.

I’d suggest getting to a good western ground work clinic because all these questions are interested related and need a holistic ,24/7 approach to keep him calm and well behaved. We can suggest specific exercises but most likely there are things you need to fine tune in your timing and response.

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Whoever handles that horse, trains that horse… for better or for worse.

There is only so much we can tell, but I agree, see if you can get a trainer to give you pointers as they can see what is going wrong where. They can provide you the outside eyes needed to sharpen your timing, and get the horse with the program.

Ground manners are my thing, and what you’re describing is something I find quite common in boarding barns - possibly some inconsistent handling, a lack of good timing, and a young horse. It happens. Thankfully manners are relatively easy to install once you get everyone working on the same page. :yes:

First I’d go down the list and see who is handling him. For the time being, if you can, pick the worker[s] that have stronger handling skills and place him on probation - only they can bring him in and out while you guys sharpen up his manners. Then try to get everyone in on one handling session to see who is doing what, who needs better timing, what gaps are in his handling, etc – preferably with coffee and/or pizza provided to show them all you appreciate them working with you to resolve this. Approaching this from a team perspective is usually the best way to resolve the problem. :yes:

I’m with Scribbler, get a rope halter. You can leave the leather halter under the rope halter since you won’t want to turn out with it, but I find rope is way better than a chain - especially with bullish horses. There’s not much finesse with a chain, and I find the bullish horses get desensitized to it which makes training for gradually lighter cues more difficult. Rope is pressure on/off, and you can control the degree of pressure and it’s a wonderful tool to have in your toolbox.

I’m also with Scribbler, he needs to be reprimanded for the nips. Not sure what you are doing now, but when/if he nips you again, you have to make it clear to him under no uncertain terms that was not acceptable. For some horses all they need is a sharp clap near their face, or a rough jab in their mouth of whatever body part they were aiming for – for some others, you might only need your voice. Your reaction should tell him what he just did was a Total Act Of War – react appropriately. Instilling the fear of God into this horse is appropriate.

Then, regarding the wiggliness in cross-ties… that’s usually anxiety related - brushing, grooming, wanting to be back with friends, etc; I would get a trainer who is good with ground-tying and see if you can’t get him to ground-tie quietly. Once that happens he can go back to cross-ties. It may just be the wiggliness is a byproduct of him being allowed to walk all over his handlers, and once you address the other issues, it’ll fall into place.

For the dragging you in/out of turnout… You may have to turn him in and out yourself for a few days with the rope halter. I say that because, most barn workers are operating on a tight time budget and don’t have time to work on a horse’s manners to and from turn-out (and they shouldn’t have to). I personally really dislike the habit of hauling to turnout, and when they start to pull I abruptly turn around and walk back to the barn until they stop. I do this every day - the second their shoulder gets past me, it’s abruptly turn around and go back to the barn. Then, at some point you need to turn around - this is when I ask for a halt, a polite one, turn them on their forehand, and then walk back to turnout. Rinse/repeat until they’re civil. I find this, combined with making them learn to respect your space (which you would do in a ring, not during turn-in/out) teaches them they cannot rush turnout.

Make sure whoever is turning him out is excising safe and proper turn-out protocol. Absolutely no unclipping the lead until the horse is turned around, facing his handler, and the gate is shut. If you need to, reward with a cookie once you unhalter/unclip the lead-rope. That’s one of the few areas of training where I do think using a treat is more successful: they quickly learn they don’t get a treat until they’re turned around, standing quietly and unhaltered – most horses get the program ASAP.

Regarding respecting space – this is something the rope halter and an 8ft or more leadrope is good for. With a helmet on, go to your ring and ask him to walk in a circle around you. He should not come into your space, and if he does, I spin the end of the rope towards whatever part of them is closest to get them to back off. You may have to whack him, or carry a whip at first if you don’t think he will respect your space. I also teach them to leg yield/turn on forehand in hand, and working on stopping/backing up/moving away on queue are great ways to develop fundamentally safe ground manners.

In hand he should stop promptly. While you are walking him on the rail, give a cue to stop (I start with “aaand” (half-halt) “whoa” (halt command) - horses get one step before I put pressure on the noseband. If he doesn’t respond immediately, make your ‘ask’ that much sharper. If he barges into you while you are doing that, it’s time to swirl that end of the rope until he backs off. He should never pass your shoulder and should never get into your space. Once he backs out of your space, stop your spinning or motioning of the whip, tell him “walk on” and do it again. Rinse repeat some thousand times and eventually you will have a horse that learns to watch you for cues - and will stop without pressure when he sees you slow your gait.

Good luck. Clever horses can make handling hard, and they really expose the gaps in handling consistency vis-a-vis the barn staff. I’ve been there; my horse is just smart enough to give one of the women that does chores a hard time… so, I just do his blanket swaps myself so she doesn’t have to. In my horse’s defense, he runs away from her if she doesn’t halter him first for blanketing… but she won’t take the time to halter first, before blanketing… .so… compromise. :rolleyes:

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I have a clever horse - he is a master con artist but one of the hardest working and safest trail horses as soon as I get him to the trail.

I have been privileged to own several terrific horses in my lifetime. This onery fella has had more CTJ meetings and more thirty seconds of “I’m going to kill you” than all my other horses put together. He will be 26 next month and has been with me 24 years. It’s been about three years since I stopped telling him he is going down the road if he doesn’t straighten up.

My point is being nice and polite is not getting you anywhere with this horse. That doesn’t mean you beat the skin off him either.

It means you need to establish yourself as the alpha horse and start treating him like he is at the bottom of the pecking order, instead of letting him bully you.

Read up on herd dynamics, watch some herd behavior on YouTube that shows how herd interaction works. Your horse may likely always be work to handle so you need to always be on your toes.

Diet also makes a HUGE difference. It turns out my horse is also grain and soy sensitive. Getting him off them made a huge difference in his willingness to behave.

Best wishes in taking hold of the situation:)

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Thank you all! There are some really helpful ideas here. Just to clarify, he doesn’t pull away from me when I turn him out. He actually is a gentleman once in his paddock. The issues are only with the walk to the paddock. Still obnoxious!

You got a ton of GREAT advice from Beowulf, but as she said, just knowing what you need to do and doing it WELL, can be 2 very different things. You need a pro to help you through at least a few ground training sessions.

Years ago, I thought I was a pretty knowledgeable horseperson as I had helped restart several OTTBs. When I got my unstarted 3 yr old just-gelded WB with no manners, “pretty knowledgeable” didn’t amount to much! He did many of the things your youngster is doing. However, within a few weeks, I realized I needed a pro’s help. If I didn’t nip these behaviors ASAP, they’d become worse and more dangerous. He was not trying to be “bad”, but his sheer size vs mine could lead to a bad outcome. With 6 weeks of consistent, correct handling, he was a solid citizen. His first backing was text book and we had a great partnership. Best to you!

A properly applied chain shank should go from the ring under the chin, up through the side fitting, across the nose back through the other side brass fitting and the be snapped up by the headpiece ring. That way you are also applying poll pressure,
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The chain should have a small bit of slack in it, so it can be used as a yank, pause yank, not a continuous pull. As in anything else horse, there are fine point techniques, that must become habit. He may not lead you, and needs sharp reminders of “do not try that”.

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I would never discipline around the head or face. John Lyons has a great method to discourage biting and it works.

In a nutshell when the horse nips or attempts to bite you make him think he is going to die for 3 SECONDS. Then you go on like nothing happened.

How do you do that?

  1. The horse should not be tied, holding the lead in your hand , when the horse attempts to nip, bite or act aggressively with his mouth, you can act like a raving lunatic yelling and waving your arms and drive the horse back for 3 SECONDS then go on as if nothing happened.

  2. You can use the end of the lead and go after the horse on his chest or front legs to drive him back yelling " NO" repeatedly. Do it for 3 seconds and then go on immediately with what you were doing.

I have used this on several horses and it works beautifully. My newest youngster has a mouthy issue and I will be employing it soon with him.

For his patience issue when tied , I would tie him and let him stand while you do other things nearby. Keep an eye on him but ignore his antics.

Sadly the leading to and from turnout is hard to fix when he gets away with the crap from incompetent handlers.

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Speaking of John Lyons, he feels the most dangerous behavior is biting/nipping because they can pull skin off and it can’t be replaced. Supposedly there are a few people walking around with one eyebrow.

I watch people, usually the teenagers, bringing two horses in or out together. At least one of them is not under control, acting up as they walk down the aisleway. The handlers will stand in front of the stall and attempt to remove the halter. Sometimes it works but the horse usually forces himself into the stall. Someone often puts the grain out which is what motivates a lot of the bad behavior. The BO should be on their case to bring one in at a time and work on ground manners.

My horse is pasture-boarded, but I give him grain in a stall after I ride. I usually sweep the mats clean because he is a sloppy eater, spilling half the grain and then nibbling each grain off the floor. He knows that he must stand outside the stall until I ask him to come in. He does not need to be tied and responds to uh-uh if he gets too close. He is almost always in stall 1, but one day when we had to use #3 he walked away. He made a right turn for #1 which was occupied. But he stood there until I picked up the lead rope. They will learn as long as our behavior is consistent.

Thank you so much! It is definitely hard because of inconsistencies with handling, and he also recently had time off from riding because I had a baby. I tried teaching the barn owner how I handle him, but he (barn owner) got frustrated because the behavior wasn’t replicated when I handled him so I had nothing to demonstrate. We have a whole host of different characters bringing the horses in and out, so yes, that is such a major part of the issue.

I have tried really going at him hard if he tries to nip, and he will back up fast, all terrified with wide eyes, but then is right back at it. He doesn’t seem to mind being smacked either, which makes getting a reaction difficult. He’s pretty brave, so twirling ropes and such don’t faze him. I already do leave him tied, and take my time, but he gets more and more frustrated to the point where I worry he will break the cross ties. I have also left him tied in his stall and he never settles down enough that I feel like I unclip him for calm behavior. I know tying causes him anxiety, as if he is free in his stall, he is not impatient. I attempted teaching him to ground tie, but it proved quite difficult at a busy training stable.

This horse thrives on attention, and when I bought him he was spin and paw in his stall if I walked away. He always wants to be with me, so I’m wondering if this overall is all manifestations of anxiety that’s residual from how he was raised. Regardless, the behavior has gotta go! He’s a small horse, but this behavior in any horse can be a hazard.

If you can figure out what his common pattern is for nipping, try letting your elbow stick out so he hits it and you don’t go after him. This also works with some girthy horses.

It sounds to me like your horse is a bit of a bully. One thing to teach him to stand while tied is to tie him and make him stand for long periods. Tie him in place he’ll feel comfortable (meaning, if he has anxiety, don’t tie him in the barn by himself) and considering tying him in a way with “give”, like wrapping the lead and not tying it. Tie him with a buddy. Make him realize pawing gets him nowhere. Tie him to the arena fence when others are riding. Make him understand that you call the shots and ignore if he misbehaves - be patient enough to make him realize that he has to stand there, pawing or not. Pawing gets him nowhere. Let him fight against the tie if he wants. Too bad, he’s going to stand there. They can easily break crossties (ask me how I know) so tie this guy to a fixed surface (allow drift if necessary) and let him work it out. And get so bored he associates the tie with snoozing time.

His rushing and shaking his head when you turn him out is easy to fix. When you turn him out, make him stand. Back up. walk forward. Do basic ground work. If he gets so bold that he shakes his head and bullies you, bring him back to the stall. If he thinks the reward is turnout, deny that reward. Turn him out in his stall or a round pen. Teach him you’ll let him turn out ONLY when he is calm and listening. Longe him in the turnout if he’s a jerk when you take him out. Let him associate being a jerk with work. Bottom line, he’s not respecting you and you’re not addressing this.

Hell no with the nippiness. Oh, no. Elbow to the gums depending on how he nips. If it’s a learned nip, tell him “no, teeth are not good for you because I don’t have teeth”. Some horses don’t get that you can’t reciprocate what they think is a pleasant nip or bite. No need to shut them down or punish them, just let them know that no, no it’s not behavior you’ll tolerate. You’re boss mare in you herd of 2.

He seems to have the positive behavioral reinforcement down, he now needs negative reinforcement. Think of being the boss mare in your herd, the boss mare would bite or kick the crap out of a gelding who nipped or tried to take over (for you, turning out, for a boss mare, your horse trying to take over the feed). She’d put him right in his place, I’ve seen it sooooo many times and the gelding fight back maybe, MAYBE once. Then they are all about compliance. I’ve recently seen a boss mustang mare (who was a boss to her owner) get taken down a peg by being turned out with a real alpha mustang mare. Her attitude changed towards her owner. They were turned out with a Fresian/Percheron gelding who pushed his owner around due to his huge size. I think for the first time, this 17hh heavy horse got the crap kicked out of him by a 14.3 and a 15.1 hh mustang mare and went from a pasture bully who bullied and bit geldings (to the point we had to remove geldings) to asking “can I eat from this hay pile, ma’am”? Try being boss mare and acting like it. Put him in his place and then get out, holding no grudge. Establish yourself as alpha. Make your rules really clear and consistent

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