Pounding fence posts (fixing plum)

[johnrezz]

I am sure there are 100 ways to skin this one but I thought I would ask to see if anyone could share their experience and what worked best. I pounded in about 100 7-8" full round fence posts this weekend… i have about 10 that have to be fixed, they are either crooked or hit a rock and moved off line… any suggestions on how to fix… Do you pull them and Auger those to get straight, do you pull them up and re pound (how do you keep it from settling in the same place?

we are doing traditional post and rail 4 board horse fence… I have searched this forum and others but have not really found any information… I am sure good old work and sweat will solve it… but a quick trick would be nice…

[johnrezz]

Also, I have about 4 that have hit too big of a rock… what do you do there and still keep the 8’ on center posts even?

[gumtree]

@johnrezz

I am sure there are 100 ways to skin this one but I thought I would ask to see if anyone could share their experience and what worked best. I pounded in about 100 7-8" full round fence posts this weekend… i have about 10 that have to be fixed, they are either crooked or hit a rock and moved off line… any suggestions on how to fix… Do you pull them and Auger those to get straight, do you pull them up and re pound (how do you keep it from settling in the same place?

we are doing traditional post and rail 4 board horse fence… I have searched this forum and others but have not really found any information… I am sure good old work and sweat will solve it… but a quick trick would be nice…

I either push into plumb with the bucket on my tractor or strap a chain and pull into plumb. I like to have a bunch of smaller rocks on hand to toss in the “void” with dirt and tamp real tight. You’re using big boy posts so there should be little worry of the post breaking/cracking at the grade level/collar.

I either eye ball it or use a post plumb level. It has 2 bubble vials that check both sides.

[gumtree]

@johnrezz

Also, I have about 4 that have hit too big of a rock… what do you do there and still keep the 8’ on center posts even?

Short of taking a ton of time to get the rock out which usually leaves a very big hole. Which makes it a total PITA to fill and tamp tight. Posts that go in short I pull the post, dig the hole wider and fill with concrete. Cut the tops off after nailing the boards on.

[fordtraktor]

Gumtree has good advice for the ones you’ve done. Also we pound the post about 1/3-1/2 of the way in, then stop and check for plumb both ways again with a level, then continue. You can use a fence bar to influence one that is going awry (one of these: http://www.acehardware.com/product/i…bingpla_954561) py pounding it back into plumb with the round end, then using the wedge edge as a lever to keep it straight as you pound the post.

[cayuse]

We have done what Gumtree has suggested, push the post into position and fill with rocks them pack it down it tightly. Works great.
However, we have no straight run of fence because every other post hole hits ledge so it is hit or miss setting the stinkers. I’ll have to try the cement suggestion the next time we replace posts.

[johnrezz]

Thanks for the advice so far… It is in line with what I was thinking…

So there are basically 3 scenarios that we are dealing with.

1. post hits an unpassable rock, in this case, I agree I will have to dig it out and put concrete in the hole after boards are up…

2. We have had a couple of helpers who have clearly never used a level and do not understand the concept of straight… posts are leaning in. Here, I thought I would try to pull them up half way and drive back in straight since they are still in the correct inline position.

3. Ones that are out of line… The annoying one!!! either they were placed wrong by the holder or on the way in the post hits a rock that decides to push it off the line as it goes down (still plum, just off line)… I have several that did this and are now outside of the line by a good 3" which will look terrible if I leave it… My thought was to get the auger out and go to work… I didn’t know if there was a trick, but I guess it is just the hazards of the job… I don’t think this can be re pounded since it will just guide right back into the same hole.

After many quotes for fencing on my farm, I decided to do the work myself and I bought a Danuser hammer… I have almost 7,000 linear feet of fence to run over the next 2 years… this first project is 2100 Linear feet (this is what I am cutting my teeth on, 4 board full round posts)…

I am pretty amazed at the lack of detailed information on fence building available online… Considering I can you tube how to repair my 25-year-old mower carburetor and find a million videos on every make and model… You would think fencing is pretty common…

It’s the tricks and tips that get you through… I guess it is trial and error for me… I will do my driveways last, haha.

Next thing to learn is how to handle the corners, how to round them where I can and how to nail the boards up where I can not…

so keep any wise farmer ideas and tips coming, I can sure use them!!!

[gumtree]

I have written several lengthy posts on how I go about the process. Most of my comments are fairly lengthy, detailed, on horse things or farm things.

I like my fence lines to look pretty, straight, all my ducks in a nice row. I don’t use full rounds, half/faced rounds on occasion. Around my neck of the horse woods just about all board fencing is done using 4X6 pressure treated. A lot more surface area to nail to. So even if the post layout/spacing is a bit off there is still plenty to nail to.

I don’t own a skid loader/post pounding attachment. Wish I did!! I drill the holes using a small diameter auger. Push the posts in with the bucket on my tractor. They go in tight with minimum back filling, tamping. I just make sure the auger is plumb before drilling.

The loader/pounder I have worked with and the ones used by the fencing pros around here have a “guide sleave” that holds the post in place while driving . It also has a plumb level attached to it to check things before driving. Adjustments can be made while driving the post because the “guide” can be hydraulically adjusted. Makes very short work of things.

My fencing friends don’t pound posts during hot dry weather. Slow going and if using 4x6 they can crack, break. They wait until after a good rain storm.

As far as a “tip” start on, practice on a part of the line that is not going to be in your “face” until you have things dialed in. Out of sight out of mind, lol.

Most horse fencing contractors around here charge twice the cost of materials. They can put up a really pretty 1 mile fence in less than 2 days, 3 people, truck and trailer, slid loader (track) and pounder, nail guns.

This is a picture of a line I put in going on 15 years ago. Still runs pretty straight and true.

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[johnrezz]

I started on the back side along the creek… I knew there would be some “Schooling” involved and picked the best place to hide that process. I have about 1/4 mile of drive way that will be fenced on both sides… that will be last :)… The driver is amazing, easy to use and efficient. Like you, I want the fence to look as good as I can get it… I chose the full rounds specifically for pounding and strength… we have no issues getting them perfectly aligned and plum unless we hit something… I think overall we will have a beautiful fence… just going to be slow going until I learn the tricks… I will post pics when I get a chance

[mht]

Around here, the fellow who does post pounding augers a pilot hole first. Helps to keep the post plumb when starting.

[ladymcts]

@johnrezz

I am pretty amazed at the lack of detailed information on fence building available online… Considering I can you tube how to repair my 25-year-old mower carburetor and find a million videos on every make and model… You would think fencing is pretty common…

This is why I’m feeling the need to thank you for posting! I just moved into my new farm in June, and am finding out all kinds of things NOT to do with fencing, but am trying my best to educate myself before I actually start trying replace. For now I’m mostly fixing and improving what’s there, but eventually I’d like to tackle the bigger job that you’re going thru. Best of luck with your project!

[Palm_Beach]

Curved fence lines - boards don’t like to bend. They are the most likely to warp, twist, and pop off. Since you are (very smartly) using round posts, you can angle the cuts at the end of the boards and do a series of angled corners instead of rounded corners, like an octagon.

[HungarianHippo]

Yes for your rounded corners, mitre the front corners (i.e. the side that’s away from the post) of the board ends at an angle that matches the angle of your fenceline.

On one project we ran into an old foundation that we had no idea was there – some long-ago outbuilding that sat on big limestone blocks. No getting around those monsters. Unfortunately we had started on the other end of the fenceline, so most of it was already in the ground when we hit this foundation. It only affected two posts, so we cut them short and concreted them in. Those two only have about 30" of post below ground but we weren’t about to call out an excavator for two posts. Not ideal but, hey, it’s a farm, not some showcase. The boards do a good job of keeping them in line, too.

Good luck OP! Look forward to the pics.

PS Gumtree, you can come build fence for me anytime. Nice work.