Quick fix for mud in large paddock/small dry lot?

[LadyJ526]

So I know there have been previous threads discussing mud and how to fix it, but most are for a more long term solution/pretty labor intensive, and I need something quicker. Here’s the scenario:

My horse & 1 other live in a large paddock/small dry lot (approx.150 x 100ft), and the recent SoCal weather of rain for 3-4 days, stop for 3-4 days for a month straight has turned the area near the water/feed/gate into a mucky, muddy mess. To make matters worse, most of this area is shaded by a shelter and a large tree so it takes forever to dry. The area on the bottom of the lot isn’t nearly as muddy because it’s more of a sand base, but that’s not where the horses spend most of their time, so every time I’ve gone out my mare is ankle deep in mud. My main concern is from a safety standpoint. I saw her ripping around in there the other day and all I could do was hold my breath and hope she didn’t slip and break a leg! :eek: I’m currently looking for another facility to move her to, so we’ll only be there another 6 weeks or so, but more rain is rolling in Wednesday/Thursday. So my question is this…what can I use as a quick fix that won’t just turn to mush? I already plan on digging out as much mud/manure as I can on Sunday and would like to add something to the footing if possible.
I’ve read about hog fuel, Stall Dry, pelleted bedding, etc but don’t know which way to go.

[csaper58]

OP, I live in the land of mud. There is no fast, easy, cheap solution that is safe for horses.

The mud is caused when organic matter mixes with the soil, then water is applied in an amount that surpasses the absorption ability of the soil and the excess water is unable to run off or drain into deeper layers of the terrain.

Be careful removing the mud. If you damage the roots of the tree it may die. If you add any material on top of the tree’s root system that could kill the tree too.

If you change the way the rain from the roof drains, the foundation of the shed may be negatively impacted.

If you do not own this property do not make any alterations to it without the owner’s written permission.

[DHCarrotfeeder]

Do not use an absorbent. Scrape up the mud, lay down landscape cloth, and cover with gravel.

[saultgirl]

As a temporary measure, we laid old carpet at the gate and dumped gravel on top. It’s been holding up just fine since then (I believe we did it in the fall of 2014).

[Weluvhaha]

From San diego

I live in San Diego county. Same problem. I shove the mud to one place (or haul it out to a field) put down DG or dry stall. A mat on top of that with more dry stall for traction. Dig a channel under the mat for drainage.

Don’t mat where their isn’t firm ground -they can make a hole in the mat and plunge a foot through a mat hole.

[Mukluk]

I’ve had nothing but mud since December. On the other hand lots of snow in the mountains which is great for skiing!

[digihorse]

2 things… Cedar Rest… expensive… but works. Mallard Creek also has a product called Muck Buster which is cedar chips… big chips… They also work. A combination would get you the best bang for your buck. You also need to go out there when it is raining, and see where the water is going. Trench it away from your gate. What every you do, do NOT use the pelleted bedding! It turns into a black nasty mess of goo. It wasn’t made for wet muddy conditions. Dry stall is also a bad idea, as it is more or less just a clay. The Cedar Rest resembles pencil shavings. The stuff is amazing. And it will hold up for a good period of time…

[LadyJ526]

csaper58 - To clarify about the tree, it’s actually planted/rooted outside the fence line but hangs over into the lot. The side with the tree isn’t causing the main issue, I was just trying to provide more info as to why some of the high-traffic areas take longer to dry out. The mud I plan to scrape out will be away from the tree as well as the shelter foundation.

Thank you everyone for your suggestions! I’ll see what I can find locally, and plan on going out today to get started. More rain is in the forecast for this week, and this is the first time I’ve ever had my horse living out 24/7, so this is all new for me!

[candyappy]

Gravel or sand after you dig out the mud. I would use some treated poles to keep it contained or it will just eventually be moved as time goes by.

[csaper58]

[QUOTE=LadyJ526;9010483]
csaper58 - To clarify about the tree, it’s actually planted/rooted outside the fence line but hangs over into the lot. The side with the tree isn’t causing the main issue, I was just trying to provide more info as to why some of the high-traffic areas take longer to dry out. The mud I plan to scrape out will be away from the tree as well as the shelter foundation.

Thank you everyone for your suggestions! I’ll see what I can find locally, and plan on going out today to get started. More rain is in the forecast for this week, and this is the first time I’ve ever had my horse living out 24/7, so this is all new for me![/QUOTE]

Be sure you have permission. Not all barn owners appreciate boarders taking matters into their own hands.

If you are still looking for another place to board, I would make sure any changes can be put back to ‘original condition’ when you leave.

[digihorse]

The problem with digging out mud, is… where is the water going to go? To the lowest place, you have now created by digging out the mud. You need to get that area higher… not lower… or stand out there in the rain and figure out where to trench the water so it doesn’t accumulate at the gate/location. Because the horses tromp around there more… it will always keep more water. Your goal is to give the water some place else to go.

[costco_muffins]

I have friends who very successfully took rubber mats (think conveyor belt style) and created a walkway across the mud. Not attractive, but cheap, easy, and portable.

[Hermein]

I’m north of SD County, but believe that I feel your pain. The ONLY place on my 5 acres where the horses can get out of the muck is in my round pen which is home to cubic yards of sand. I’m shifting the horses around to spread the damage.

It’s supposed to start raining again tomorrow. :grief::dead::grief:

[susanne]

What was supposed to be just a temporary solution for our ponies actually ended up working for a couple of years.

We had runoff from our hillside that ran along the front of one corral, creating a swamp. We first created a French drain to redirect the water from the hill. Then we placed a 12-foot strip of landscape barrier cloth along the front fence where the mud was at its worst. We then topped this with about 6 inches of 1/4 minus gravel, covering the edges of the cloth.

The only downside was that my horses thought it was the world’s best back scratcher and rolled until they were coated in grey dust.

[susanne]

What was supposed to be just a temporary solution for our ponies actually ended up working for a couple of years.

We had runoff from our hillside that ran along the front of one corral, creating a swamp. We first created a French drain to redirect the water from the hill. Then we placed a 12-foot strip of landscape barrier cloth along the front fence where the mud was at its worst. We then topped this with about 6 inches of 1/4 minus gravel, covering the edges of the cloth.

The only downside was that my horses thought it was the world’s best back scratcher and rolled until they were coated in grey dust.

[littlebaypony]

I agree with Susanne; 1/4 minus AKA quarter down or crusher run, is a quick, relatively inexpensive, long term solution for muddy, mucky gateways. My driveway from the road to my house and then to the barn is crusher run and while it does need replenishing every 10 years or so; it has functioned very well in providing a stable, mud free surface we can drive on and doesn’t hurt our barefoot horses. Do let anybody talk you into “pug mix” because it has gravel up to an inch in diameter mixed in with crusher run that gradually rises to the top and is painful to the horses even with shoes.

[dog_amp_horsemom]

we also put an old carpet under the gate and it is still there - with dirt and gravel over it.

[LauraB]

I live the PNW so we have lots of rain. Last year I made a paddock 25x50 of layers large rock on the bottom then commercial grade landscape fabric, then 1" rock and sand on top. Well now a year later, smaller rock is coming up in the sand and the sand erodes to pasture area.
We are revising by removing the sand 4 inches, and replace with 1/4 minus and put in barriers on the sides. (fingers crossed) We put in a french drain across the smalller pasture hoping this will moving the rain this winter.

[Guilherme]

@digihorse

The problem with digging out mud, is… where is the water going to go? To the lowest place, you have now created by digging out the mud. You need to get that area higher… not lower… or stand out there in the rain and figure out where to trench the water so it doesn’t accumulate at the gate/location. Because the horses tromp around there more… it will always keep more water. Your goal is to give the water some place else to go.

Outstanding observations!!!

First, figure out where the water is coming from. If it’s just from the sky then there’s not much to be done. But more often than not it’s run off from someplace else. If you don’t deal with the run off, most likely by using a swale or tile, you are just wasting time digging out mud and putting down gravel (even with a geocloth).

Second, where do you direct the water? That will require thinking about the source (which you now know) and options for where to direct it.

Third, once the water has been moved “out of the way” then you can think about building a water resistant base with geocloth, gravel, and whatever other material is appropriate. There would be nothing wrong in raising the level of ground at the gate/approach an inch or two and directing runoff from your rise into the appropriate location.

We get 50" of rain a year and this is what works here. And we are constantly having to redo stuff because water is one of the most powerful forces in nature.

Good luck to the OP in their project.

G.