Re-seeding Grass Pasture This Fall

[Pico_Banana]

I have three grassy paddocks plus one of my neighbor’s to use. Two horses.

All of the paddocks are mostly weeds and clover. I want to do everything I can this fall to re-seed two of my paddocks so that they have nice grass next summer. I have enough space so I can keep them off of them until next spring/summer when the grass is firmly established.

My question concerns really what to do to get rid of the weeds. I spoke to the grass company and they suggested using Roundup before I put down the seed. I don’t want to do that because Roundup is nasty stuff and I refuse to use it. I know people on this forum like 2,4-D, but then I need to wait 30 days between putting that down and planting grass seed, and then I’m getting close to the end of temps that are good for germinating grass.

Beyond the herbicide issue, my plan is to rototill the areas, then lime, then broadcast seed, then rake some of the soil over the seed. The paddocks are mostly clay and are pretty compacted so I think the tilling will be good for them.

With the rototilling, thoughts on whether an herbicide is really necessary? Or if yes, are there any out there that don’t require 30 days between using and seeding?

[Simkie]

I think it probably depends on what weeds you have? There are plenty that will just LOVE a good rototill, and will come back with glee, thanking you for disturbing the soil.

[Pico_Banana]

Ugh, really? That is depressing.

I have a LOT of plaintain weed. That and clover make up maybe 85% of what’s there. Also a decent amount of nutsedge. Some purslane. Buttercups. Creeping charlie.

There’s some other stuff mixed in but I am not very good at identifying them.

[Simkie]

Plantain LOVES disturbed soil. So much that the Native Americans called it “white man’s footprint” because it was the first thing to come in after white settlers destroyed native grasses.

Do you have a helpful extension office? They should be able to guide you if so.

[Warmblood1]

Pasture Pro is my go to herbicide.

[SusanO]

Just make sure you do not compost the manure after the horses can graze in that pasture. Those pass through herbicides are hell on vegetable or flower gardens. But it will kill back the broadleaf weeds. And I agree with Simke. It is kind of a wasted effort to spray Roundup and then till up the soil. You are going to bring up millions of weed seeds when you till. I think an extension office should be helpful giving you some ideas about broad leaf herbicides- both varieties and timing.

[SusanO]

I also would get a soil test done before I spent a lot of money on liming. It would be very helpful to see what the ph is and what minerals are lacking in the soil. Cheaper too to just add what is needed.

[EmilyM]

Graze-on could be an alternative weed killer. That’s all I can add. Good luck.

[StormyDay]

I’d personally reseed and then mow every other week until your grass gets tall enough to compete with the weeds. Then next spring, spray 2,4-D or something similar (not roundup) early on and keep mowing every 2 weeks or so. About two months later, if you still have weeds, spray again. Well established weeds can take a long time to get rid of. But the best things you can do is spraying and mowing.

[clanter]

Over the years the Law of Diminishing Returns has prevailed Repeatedly… the more I spend on reseeding the greater the probability of extended drought also comes into play, so we end up feeding a lot of hay over the year

[lenapesadie]

How far south are you?

If far enough south to grow annual ryegrass over winter and are wanting to plant typical summer grazing, an idea would be to mow as short as possible and or burn the existing vegetation, plant your desired grasses then plant the ryegrass over the top after your desired grasses germinate. The annual ryegrass will choke out the majority of early spring weeds. Then mow or graze down the annual ryegrass to allow the summer pastures to get growing late next spring.

[JB]

Your county extension agent needs to become your best friend
What chemicals you use - and when - depends on what weeds you have, and then what the germination preferences are for which weed seeds

I would do as little soil disturbance as you can, beyond using a no-till drill if that’s the way you decide to go. At best, a very, very light discing, just to basically scratch the surface enough that seeds can get real soil contact, is all you’d do. But a no-till drill is optimal, though not accessible to everyone.

Start with a soil test. Get any lime needed down asap, as that just takes time to work. Fertilizing should be done based on what grasses you have/want to have, and the time of year - no need to fertilize weeds.

Nutsedgs is a BEAST to get ride of. It’s too late to spray to control buttercups.

Grazon, either kind (one you can’t even get on your own) has a lonnnnng carryover, so if you ever want to use manure produced by your horses eating this new grass, it will be 3-4 years before you can even think about it.

[Simkie]

@JB

It’s too late to spray to control buttercups.

Late fall is a GREAT time to spray for buttercups