Reducing heat from skylights in barn?

The barn I purchased has a gambrel metal roof, with three sections in the roof with the plastic skylight panels. I appreciate the concept of extra lighting, but I have good electric and doors that let in light, and I HATE the heat from the skylights. I currently have greenhouse cloth tacked up over it, but it gets dirty and while better than nothing, it still seems warm under the skylights. In the future, I intend to add run-ins off the sides of the barn and have metal panels I can have the professionals use to replace the plastic, but not going to risk mine or DH’s neck trying to replace them ourselves. I’m thinking of painting the plastic to block the light entirely until I can do a proper job getting rid of the panels.

I read about painting skylights on RVs from the outside, but I was thinking of painting the inside to make them opaque since I don’t see how we could safely navigate to the outside of the roof ourselves. Has anyone done this? Or what other ideas for blocking the heat from the skylights?

And for those building a barn, I highly recommend against overhead skylights!!! The new storage barn we built has the translucent panels at the top under the roof line, so let’s in light but not so much the glaring heat of a hot car!

Thanks for any inputs!

Can you increase the ventilation in the uppermost part of the barn? Heat should chimney itself upwards and out.

[QUOTE=alfonsina;8743793]
Can you increase the ventilation in the uppermost part of the barn? Heat should chimney itself upwards and out.[/QUOTE]

Good point! The barn I’m at has skylights like you mention, and while granted the ceilings are ridiculously high (indoor with aisles on each side and no loft), they definitely don’t add much heat, just tons of light. In fact they’re on my “lotto barn” wish list!

I bought cane hooks for my loft windows to prop open, but not really making the biggest dent. Ceilings are high but not a huge barn, so maybe that’s part of the issue… I have considered the cupolas when I get the run-ins done, but not in the budget to bring in pros this year - a running priority list of to-dos that make farm ownership truly fun, but winning the lottery would be nice, too!

Spray paint them, that would help, either from one or the other side.
Also skylights tend to be bad about springing leaks, another reason against them.

You could also use shade cloth material over them to keep too much light and heat from coming thru.

We didn’t put any skylights or windows on the West side in our covered arena because of just that, the heat coming thru those is really bad.

We do have light panels on the North side partway down, there is only light, no heat coming thru those.

If you want to keep the light, 3M makes low-e film that will reduce the amount of solar gains. Just apply it to your skylight. You can usually get them through a window dealer. Lots of options!

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Window_Film/Solutions/Markets-Products/Residential/

I wouldn’t recommend totally blocking the light from below (at least not as a long term fix) – that will trap all that heat in a teeny tiny area, eventually damaging the skylight and causing it to leak. If you want to block the light, you’ll be better off doing it from above.

Farm-Tec sells the insulated plastic used now in greenhouse applications. It is clear looking, but double thick with an air layer for insulation. Perhaps some panels of that would reduce the heat allowed thru, especially if you darken the plastic of the skylight itself. Silver paint to reflect sunlight brightness out, might be a better option than black which absorbs heat. Silver is color used on all heat reflective surfaces like car window shades. I know my west side house windows just emanate heat when the afternoon sun is on them, even with shades down to prevent light inside. So insulated plastic panels is an idea for you. Farm-Tec stuff is some kind of polycarbonate, which you can find on their site.

http://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies/home

Silver bubble-pack insulation is another idea, buy and put up against the skylight, tape or glue it in place. It is thick and very light to handle, seen in Florida camper windows! Ha ha, must work some or folks would find another product. No idea on price for that, but probably available at Home Depot or Lowes type places.

Another option could be an exhaust fan at one end, to pull out hot air. Farmers with chickens have those big ones, birds generate a LOT of heat in the buildings. Exhaust fan would need an opening to push air out. Even one of the rolling fans, could be helpful in moving air for you, then used another place after you get the skylight problem fixed.

We had ours taken out. They leaked and let in too much heat. Honestly, the difference in light in the barn is negligible. I don’t miss them at all!

I am assuming the “sky lights” you are referring to are the plastic panel roofing types that are used with steel roofing panels? Not the type use in a house that is basically a casement window designed to be installed in the roof.

If so just use spray paint that is meant to be used on plastic. Make sure the surface is cleaned really well before spraying. The product might suggest what it the best “primer” cleaner to use so as to get really good adhesion and not peal bubble over the course of time. Or ask the paint salesmen what is the best product to use.

Just guessing but if I was going to do this I would paint the inside. The outer surface is exposed to the elements and subjected to much more “wear and tear” and become a maintenance issue.

Unless there are a lot of these installed I think you might be disappointed in the results. It’s not the “light” coming through that’s heating the “air” its the surface that the light is shining on and heating that up. This is called a heat sink which heats up and radiates.

In a passive solar cabin I lived in we would put down a white, lite colored rug in the summer to reflect the light, solar gain effect. Or just closed the blinds when away. The roof overhand around the house was designed to extend far enough out to so that the high summer sun didn’t shine directly into the interior during the hottest times of the day. The winter sun “hangs” lower in the sky. shinning directly in the windows through out the day heating up the interior nicely.

But the roof of any structure acts the same way. Its a giant heat sink and acts like a convection oven on the interior. Heated air rises but if it has no way to exit the roof peak it just keeps expanding filling the interior with hot air exiting through the open areas at the surface level.

This is especially true with low pitched roofs which most barns are built with these days. 8-12, 6-12 roofing trusses are the most common pre-made and cost effect. To get the most “sun concentration” on solar panels they have to be set at idea angles to the sun. Which is between 26 to 33 degrees. The same angle that an 6-12, 8-12 roof pitch gives. Making it the perfect “heat sink”. Especially if the broad side of the roof in exposed to the south, south west.

That being said without the benefit of seeing how the barn is constructed and going off the descriptionit doesn’t sound like it has a high peak, ridge line and loft. IMO this is the problem not the sky lights.

Installing a ridge fan, antic fan should give a pretty good bang for the buck as long as it is sized properly.

If there are a lot of sky-light panels to be replace this is not going to be inexpensive to have done. IMO based on descriptions given you will get much more satisfaction spending the money on a properly sized cupola as others have suggested. Sizing is key. The size be it for a fan or a cupola is based on the amount/volume of air that needs to be exchanged. People make the mistake of not doing the “math” and waste money installing something that is way undersized to do the job. Especially cupola’s. They end up with something that looks nice but is not really functional.

But in the end depending on location and summer climate the barn is going to get hot regardless. Ours is a giant bank barn. The top of the roof is around 50’ from the ground. The stable area stays reasonably cool for quite a while into the summer. But by mid summer we still have to use big barrel fans in the isle way when working and stall fans.

Thanks guys! I’m terrified of heights, but showing this thread to DH for him to see what he thinks is best. I do want them gone, but will do that in ~2 years when adding the lean-to areas on either side;). Next year is concrete aisle. Great barn overall, but it’s fun to prioritize projects to make it better and better…

Do you have a ridge vent on the building? If not, you building is trapping heat and it has no way out. A ridge vent will alleviate that. Good luck!

[QUOTE=allpurpose;8749994]
Do you have a ridge vent on the building? If not, you building is trapping heat and it has no way out. A ridge vent will alleviate that. Good luck![/QUOTE]

Actually these are designed, used more for the control of moisture/condensation then “hot air” exchange. Especially for roofs that are insulated.

They aren’t big enough to move/exchange a lot of air volume. They were installed when I had my old house re-roofed. The attic is not insulated and they made no discernible difference. It is still a torture chamber up there in the summer.

A much better bang for the buck installing a properly sized copula. Which allows for excellent hot air exchange during the day. In the cool evenings allows for the cool air to enter and sink driving the hot air out. Very simple principle and works really well.

  1. We use paint like this in the green houses. There are several brands. It is made to wash off in about 6 months so the greenhouse gets needed light in the winter.

www.greenhousemegastore.com/category/shade-paint

We used the Lite Stick product, but if you have electric lights, Varishade might be more helpful for you.

  1. I boarded in a gambrel roof barn for a few years. It was blazing hot until the owner installed ceiling fans in the center aisle. The difference was amazing. The fans were about $80 ea. from Home Depot, and were rated for use outdoors.

Can’t make the link work :frowning: they were similar to the Hampton Bay Gazebo II Item # YG187-Nl $69.97

One fan at every other stall so 24ish feet apart. He started with one fan at each end of the barn and filled in the interior the next year.

In this particular case I believe that 90%+ of the heat gains that the OP is experiencing are radiative – meaning, the sunlight is shining through the window and heating up whatever surface it is illuminating. That’s different from the conductive heat through the roof. An attic fan will not alleviate this because it is going to happen regardless of what the air is doing. Blocking the light (or at least the solar gains) is an easy fix though.