Restarting an sensitive OTTB Mare after hiatus

I’m bringing my mare back into work after a 1 1/2 year hiatus. Before this hiatus, she was in training with a hunter/jumper trainer that rushed her through everything, from basic ground work to coursing jumps. So she created an anxious, hot and unconfident mare undersaddle. She was sensitive mouthed, and didn’t like contact. I didn’t know better then and removed her from the situation as soon as I could. Since then, she’s had a baby and and has since weaned the foal I. I’ve continued my own training while she’s been off. We’re both in the right places to start back into work together, and I’m so excited to give her the chance to really shine. I do have a trainer, and am experienced enough myself to handle this horse, but love hearing new ideas/thoughts/ perspectives.

Starting from the ground, how would you bring this mare back into work? What would you day 1 look like? What would be your weekly goals? I want to take this extremely slow, and plan to do ground work and trail walks, then add in undersaddle starting with long trail walks, for confidence and bonding. I’d like to keep her out of the arena until she can learn to relax, and not associate it with anxiety and bad feelings.

Alsooo taking bit suggestions, I’ve got a few snaffles in mind, but would love to hear what yall choose to restart your sensitive mouthed OTTBs!

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I would do lateral work in hand. I’d also do quiet liberty work. Stand, come to a whistle, move the haunches over, etc with no leadrope or even no halter. It’s just really good for their minds to learn they can stand still, come to a cue, and even “lead” w t halt with no lead rope. You can use some clicker training for this if you want. But basically building a vocabulary of shared cues on the ground so that ground work is not about being shanked around.

As far as bits, some horses like a thicker snaffle but some horses have small mouths or shallow palates and need a thinner bit. I feel like any basic jointed snaffle is fine as a starting point, it’s how you use it that matters

Your ground work should be consistent from the moment you enter the barn.

Also praise. Mares really need to know you like and appreciate them. Praise her a lot, don’t yell at her, unless she bites you then make the sky fall in and move her feet back fast. Other than that, just keep telling her she’s such a good girl for every effort and she will end up believing you and trying to live up to it :slight_smile:

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Watch some groundwork videos of people whose finished work you like. I recommend Tristan Tucker and Warwick Schiller.

My first day would be doing Tristan’s exercise of having the horse follow me on a long lead, keeping the same distance whether I go quickly, slowly, or stop.

If she’s ring sour, I’d give the rest period in the ring. Rewards, treats, grooming if she likes it.

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So helpful! Thank you so much!

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I will look at the video tonight, thank you!

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Those are words I wish I could’ve written myself! Mares are just something else when you’re lucky enough to feel that very special ‘thing’ between the two of you.

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Agreed! I feel so lucky to get a second chance with her, and really just want to do right by her. She’s an incredible animal that I’m lucky to have!

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If she’s really ring sour, then I guess the round pen is out to start (because that’s where I would start otherwise). How about starting in her pasture? Clicker training can be a great foundation for a sour horse. A safe place to introduce it is over the fence or stall door and training the horse to lower her head to get the halter on. She may already be fine to halter, but they can always get better. You can get to the point where you can just hold it up by the crownpiece and they’ll thread their nose through, so you can do it one handed. With enough practice and a stable enough bit (like a Mullen mouth) you can even do the same thing bridling, though obviously it takes 2 hands to get the noseband and throatlatch buckled.

From there, you can try the round pen. But if that’s still a no-go, take the mounting block to the pasture and practice that. You don’t have to get on, it’s more just teaching her to line up and stand still. This is another good opportunity to use R+ training and build back her curiosity and work ethic.

You can also hand walk her if she’s not too flighty and energetic. Practice walking and stopping. The idea is to get her to mirror you and focus on you. Treats still help a lot at this stage. Starting a hand grazing habit can also be more helpful than you realize. It trains her to watch your movements and learn to negotiate her body around yours, to relax in your presence, and to allow you to reorganize the lead rope or loose it if she steps on or catches it somehow. It helps to have a 6ft lead and an area where it wouldn’t be a big deal if she had a spook and you needed to drop the line and let her have a little bolt (ie, not near a road, or where lessons are going on). You don’t want to have to restrain her if she spooks; what happens is they don’t go very far and often either come right back or stand to let you grab the rope again, and eventually they learn to “spook in place” because they realize they feel more secure being attached to you.

Once you have a good rapport and the horse is less sour, I would start in the round pen. If the horse is really energetic, you might want to start with free lunging. But there are pros and cons to it. Some horses can work themselves up into a panic and get very insecure at liberty. If you have them on a line, you can reel them back in and talk them off the fight-or-flight ledge. But a pro of free lunging is that you’re not restraining them, so you’re not fighting with them, and it gives them the choice to turn away from a blind panic (or even just a nervous trot with a counter bend) to put their focus on your direction and start using the thinking side of their brains. Either way, the first step in the line or at liberty is asking for a lot of direction changes. Doesn’t matter what gait at first, just get a lot of direction changes and gradually you will get your horse’s focus and relaxation will follow. I think Tristan Tucker’s method is similar in principle but a little harder to follow, especially with a hot bear that wants to run. But the basic principle is getting them to move their feet and shoulders in response to your body language. As they move their feet, their brains seem to settle.

Once your horse is calm and focused on you in the round pen, you can start lunging. Try to train all your transitions on voice commands. Transitions can be just as good as direction changes for getting your horse’s focus. After a month or so, when your horse is going calmly at all 3 gaits, it would be great to get a system like the pessoa, but even just lunging in a neck stretcher attached to a surcingle will help teach her about contact. Double lunging is another option—even better and more like a rider—but it requires more from you. I would start with a gadget first and then progress to double lunging.

Do that for a month or two, maybe three if you are being conservative, and I bet anything your first ride will be nothing like your last one. You’ll have a different horse!

She has actually been super agreeable the last few serious training sessions we’ve had and has been working in the arena and on the lunge line fine! I think she’s enjoying the small workload, so far it’s just been some lunging on the lung line and walks around the arena to work on relaxation. Trying to keep them short. I do lunge her in a neck stretcher, and hope to get a Pessoa or equiband system soon, though she’s never had much problem engaging the back end. I’d post pictures, but I’d prefer her previous trainer not know of her whereabouts!

These encourage horses to go behind the vertical. You want her stretching into the contact, not curling to avoid it.

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I think the ground work most are suggesting for a mare with a “ sensitive mouth” coming off a long layoff does not include lunging in circles in a training device usually used on specific horses further along for specific reasons.

More close up handling on the very basics of touch, voice and body language and lots of it is the real basic groundwork.

On the subject of the bit, do you know how wide across your horses mouth is? How high or low the bit needs to sit? High or low palate? IME many do not know how to measure or fit the bit and the horses resist or overreact to it because it does not sit comfortably in the mouth or pinches the corners of the mouth or the joint pinches the roof of the mouth. Headstall adjustment can change how and where the bit lies in the mouth…fitting the bit is an art but it answers many training issues.

Going to the tack store and buying the latest Bit du Jour with a 5” mouth then placing it with 2 wrinkles is wishful thinking. You need to get it right.

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In my experience, the absolute best way to bring sensitive horses back into work after extended hiatus and I don’t want to ride them is long lining. Lunging is too hard on joints and does little to actually create anything. Long lining allows me to do just about anything I would like to do if I was riding, including going on “hacks” around the property, lateral work at the walk, frequent changes of direction, etc. I may use loosely fastened elastic side reins so if they come way up I don’t interfere with the horse.

Personally, I use nathe loose rings on all of my TBs ever since that bit came out. I’ve never needed to use any other bit.

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I hear this so often. Years ago a trainer friend suggested I try this for my thoroughbred with a super soft mouth. Up until this point, I’d only used a plain single jointed d-ring snaffle (my collection has massively grown in the last 15+ years). We tried a super flexible rubber Mullen (you could bend it in half), a myler comfort d, and the nathe loose ring. He loved the myler and rubber mullen (I ended up switching between the 2 depending on what we needed), and hate is too kind of a word to describe his reaction to the nathe. This was a horse who never really reacted to bits (I didn’t realize how much better he went in something other than a plain single jointed snaffle until I tried because he was fine), but the nathe? Ears back, grab the bit and bolt. We tried it 3 times and same reaction.

I should probably try the bit again! But my current guy loves his bit (double jointed with lozenge) and I’ve seen no reason to mess with what’s working…

What works for you is what is best. A bit is only as good as the hands and arms attached to it. My opinion is that if what you use enables your hands and arms to function effectively and give the horse confidence then the bit is fine. I’m not advocating that bit as the answer. It has worked well for me over the years over many horses, so much so that somebody once commented my bit was almost as old as them when they saw us at a competition.

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This! I have been bringing back a TB that was turned out for a year and a half. He had no muscle and was quite underweight. I’ve been long lining him on slight hills and it’s helped him get stronger and use his body better. It’s good exercise for me, too.

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What was different between the Mullen and the Nathe? IME Nathes are the most flexible and are, of course, mullens so the only difference I can imagine is the cheek pieces.

They were both loose rings. The only thing I can think of was the shape was slightly different. The mullen was all one thickness and the nathe isn’t. Or he loved the taste of black rubber and the nathe taste highly offended him. I mean, apples highly offended him too so… it’s possible?