Riding Basics- won't stand

[Ravenfeathers]

I’ve got a 9 year old that’s developed a bad habit, not standing for mounting. We never had this problem before and I’ve had her since she was a yearling. As a general rule, whenever I mount up, I we stand quietly for a few minutes. So I’m not sure how this escalated but we are now refusing to stand quietly with and without a mounting block.
I’m 5 foot 7 and she’s a big girl, so I prefer a block so I’m not putting any strain on her back.Some background. Penny is on pasture turnout 24/7 with a large indoor run in to get out of our northern winter elements. She’s always very eager to work. Stands perfect for saddling. I’ve watched countless videos on this issue. I’ve been implementing the following tactic, when she moves her feet I either: disengage her hips, back her up, or send her off in a small circle. Anything to move the feet and make her work so she wants that rest.Even when I lunge her first… we still go through this for 15/20 min before I can approach her and get up without her moving. It’s now to the point where she is anticipating that that is what we do. Now when I pick up the reins and get near the saddle she says okay I need to back up or okay I need to move it’s very frustrating and I’m not sure if this is the course I should continue to take or if it’s time to try something else or maybe I just need to be more patient.
“Go” is always very much on her mind. We could spend 30 min of this game pre ride and I’m not sure I’m doing her any favors.

Some advice is greatly appreciated.

[Macimage]

I have always mounted from the ground and when they start to move their feet I get down. Put foot in the stirrup, they move, I get down. Start to swing leg over, they move, I get down. Repeat as often as necessary.

[findeight]

Could be something is uncomfortable for her…could be she’s outsmarted you for the moment. Best bet would be to proceed under the assumption she needs a refresher on the “Whoa” command on a very consistent basis. Never say whoa unless you want whoa and never fail to get whoa when you say it.

We all can get sloppy and careless with the whoa command. Not insisting on it and letting lack of compliance slide. Or overusing it when we just need them to slow or settle, not grow roots. Then when you really need it, like stepping off to avoid being mounted? It’s not there and the stinkers know you are frustrated. Almost a game to them…that has to stop.

Just treat it as a disobedience of the “whoa” command and clean that up with some extra ground work on whoa and being sure you are not being inconsistent in enforcement.

I dunno about the getting off and on again if they step off on you…never worked for me as well as reviewing the meaning of “whoa”, especially with Green horses you want to get secure on ASAP.

Dont be afraid to get somebody to hold her for you as you reinstall that whoa command. Keep it simple.

[Foxglove]

Ravenfeathers, if you are sure she’s feeling well, then I would up the consequence of the lack of respect. Go into the ring prepared. Before you take the horse in to try to mount, have a halter on her (under the bridle is how I do it, but each to her own) and a lunge line beside the mounting block, along with a lunge whip if you use one (I use a long stick). Lead mare to block. Prepare to mount. When she moves one step --immediately attach the lunge line and lunge her for half an hour --keep an eye on your watch because lunging is well, a little dull, and sometimes what seems like 30 min, may be only 10. You can reverse direction, but keep her moving --trotting–for 30 solid minutes. About every ten min or so, let her stop by the mounting block --but the second she moves a foot, move her on. After 30 min, quietly lead her back to the mounting block. Pat, remove lunge rope, put down stick, and prepare to mount. If she take even one step --another 30 min of lunging. Allow her to stop ONLY by the mounting block. Seriously. Now at that point, she’s been moving for an hour, take her back to the mounting block. unclip, drop whip --and just pat. Don’t mount. Then take her back to her stall --enough for one day. NEXT DAY --same thing. I;m guessing after 3 days, she will learn that standing rock still by the mounting block is better than lunging. It only took my horse one day --he was a sneaky side stepper who would wait until you tried to put your foot into the stirrup and slide to the side. After one hour of stop-at-the-block -he caught on.

[tinah]

Mount from the ground. Keep your outside rein short, so when she tries to move off you can shove her father underneath your butt instead of away from you. Walk into the ring, pick up your trends, and get on. If you are worried about her back, loose weight so you can spring up like you’re supposed to. You’ve gotten lazy, and pony has your number.

[Bluey]

Teaching a horse to go is important, teaching one to stand is important and they are two different requests.

If other doesn’t work, try, standing on the block, teaching to move over to the block, with a long whip, gently tapping on the outside, where your leg would go and praising at first every little try, then asking for more.
Try doing that kind of teaching with a not very fresh horse, one that is ready to learn, not one in a very ambitious frame of mind, wanting action.

If a horse is taught something different, they tend to get over stumbling blocks like there anticipating you will make her move in a way you really don’t want.
Try using that willingness to do things for you by teaching something you do want her to do, to move over to the block.

Then standing there should be what is expected next.

[Foxglove]

I like your idea, Bluey!

[Training_Cupid]

If she starts stepping away, immediately back her up and make her stand where you had her before. Once you’re mounted don’t expect her to stand still for minutes; just a moment for now and then you can gradually increase the time.

I think lunging for half an hour is overkill.

[AKB]

I admit to using bribery as a quick fix. If I am off at a park, I open my trailer escape door, put a handful of treats in the feed bag, and let my horse eat the treats out of the trailer while I mount. At home, I face my horse into a fence. A few weeks ago, I was in Florida visiting a friend. There was no fence to face him into. He stood like a statue, as if the fence was there. I think he finally learned to stand very still when I mount.

[RPM]

OK, forgive the question, but you aren’t by any chance poking her in the ribs with your toe when you mount? Or thumping down into the saddle?

Just a thought …

Is she girthy? Could it be a pain/discomfort issue for her?

[meupatdoes]

I had a horse once take off when I had half a leg over.

After I picked myself out of the dirt…

…and caught his @$$ on the other side of the eff farm…

… I led him back to the arena.

We stopped by the tackroom on the way for some treats, which I put in my pocket.

I led him back to the mounting block, and fed him a treat.
I climbed on the block, and fed him a treat.
I banged around on the saddle, and fed him a treat.

Already the mounting block is looking like a nice place to hang out, no?

I put a foot in the stirrup, and fed him a treat.
I stood in one stirrup, and fed him a treat over the off side.

As long as his feet were still, he got treats.

After about 8 minutes, I swung my leg all the way over, he scooted a bit, I asked him to halt, and when he did he got his treat. (Btw, this does not reward him for scooting. It rewards him for STOPPING his scooting and offering a halt INSTEAD.)

We had our ride, and then at the END of the ride, before going home, I hopped on and off 5 or 6 times at the mounting block. With treats.

Behavior problem solved.

Note: it was not necessary to beat his heinie to “teach him a lesson” when I caught him.

It was not necessary to “increase consequences” whatsoever.

It was simply necessary to equate “standing” with “treats.”

And after a few days or so, we weaned off the treats.

So, longe it for an hour and get aggressive and confrontational if you want, but you can do it faster with kindness.

[findeight]

Think lunging for 30 min every time they step away is overkill as well but…trying to school this with a really fresh horse isn’t going to work either. Nothing wrong with lunging first so you start with a horse that WANTS to stand still and that probably is why that works-gets the horse tired . Or school this at the end of your session when any excess energy is worked out.

Not everybody can get on every horse from the ground either, that’s kind of a one size fits all assumption. We have readers of all ages and sizes from all disciplines riding all types of horses looking for advice on basic behavior problems.

[Scribbler]

I agree, doing the work and move as “punishment” for a horse that wants to move off isn’t doing the trick.

Teach whoa, away from the block, quietly and calmly. Get horse to stand at block with whoa while you lean over saddle, test stirrup, etc.

I clicker train, and in fact when my horse started tossing her head or walking off at the mounting block, I started clicking and treating for her standing still. Now of course she won’t walk off until she gets her treat. There’s always a downside!

[candyappy]

Have someone hold her .

Mount her facing into a wall or tall fence so she can’t go forward.

I shouldn’t be giving this advice since my mare is one who tries to move off as I am getting on and I have been battling this her whole life ( she is 12)

These 2 approaches do work when I use them.

[HuntinQuarters]

Normally I would recommend several of the techniques you mentioned in your OP (backing, disengaging hind quarters, circling). However, this seems to have become a game for your horse, or she is confused and thinks these are the behaviors you are looking for. I would take your groundwork completely away from mounting for at least a few days. Make sure your horse reliably walks with you at your shoulder, not in front of or behind. Make sure she backs easily off your body pressure. Ensure you can move her shoulders and haunches easily from both sides. Make sure she lunges obediently with lots of transitions between gaits and directions. Basically make sure she will do anything you ask her from the ground and that you have her undivided attention and respect when you are working. Perhaps take breaks during your work where she gets to stand quietly next to the block. Make sure there are no holes in your groundwork and that she understands the chain of command (you tell, she does, no questions). Then go back to trying to mount. Be patient and calm when you finally go back to trying to mount. If you are frustrated, you may accidentally “goose” her off, which will only compound your problem. (BTW keeping myself from getting frustrated while training is one of the biggest things I am working on myself. It can be hard!) Good luck!

[beau159]

I’ve got a 9 year old that’s developed a bad habit, not standing for mounting. We never had this problem before and I’ve had her since she was a yearling.

I’ve been implementing the following tactic, when she moves her feet I either: disengage her hips, back her up, or send her off in a small circle. Anything to move the feet and make her work so she wants that rest. Even when I lunge her first… we still go through this for 15/20 min before I can approach her and get up without her moving. It’s now to the point where she is anticipating that that is what we do.

I agree that if this whole “issue” is eating up 20 minutes each time you ride, you’re doing something wrong (and I don’t mean that in a derogatory way ).

As others have mentioned, is there any possibility of pain since you say this never used to be an issue?

Have you closely examined the underside of your saddle for any loose nails or defects?

Has she been checked by a chiropractor?

Any other behavioral issues otherwise?

If there doesn’t seem to be a problem with pain, the method I like to use is what Bluey posted. And honestly, if my horse is fresh, I really don’t care. We’ll still go through the same method anyone. Personally, (call me lazy), but I don’t lunge my horses (unless I’m putting the very first rides on a colt). I don’t see the point in it. If they are a little fresh, I put that to good use while we ride.

And whether they are fresh or not, I still expect them to listen to me. And I want them to know that.

Now let me preface this by saying you would have done basic ground work training ahead of time so you can incorporate it to the mounting block.

I would stand on the mounting block and then my feet are NEVER going to move. I’m going to stay on that mounting block until my horse cooperates and I mount. I’m not going to move my feet – the horse is going to. (Work smarter; not harder.) I will have a long lunge whip in my hand. I’ll lead the horse to their place by the mounting block, and then climb the mounting block. If the horse moves, I will use the lunge whip as an extension of my arm to move them back where I want them. So if they move their hips away, I can reach over with the whip and tap on their hip to move them back.

Simple. That’s it. They move and I move them back. I don’t get worked up about it and the horse doesn’t get worked up about it. And we do that for as long as it takes. When they stand still where I want them, I leave them alone. When they are standing nice, then I will mount. If they try to move while I’m mounting, we just start over.

Low-stress way to teach them to stand next to the mounting block. It is all about having basic control of your horse’s feet at all times (which is why I prefaced this by saying to have your ground work “completed” ahead of time!).

[dog_amp_horsemom]

I stand on the mounting block and offer them to stand so I can get on - if they don’t - I make them work back and forth a few times then offer them to stand - do that enough and they will enjoy standing ! or - you can put a foot in the stirrup and if the horse moves AT ALL - make the horse go around in circles 3 or 4 then ask it to stand as you put a foot in the stirrup - repeat until that horse figures out standing is easier than running in circles!

[CHT]

I would look into why she has starting this bad habit. Back issues or saddle fit seem the most likely, but any discomfort could cause this.

I have retrained many horses that have developed bad habits with being mounted (usually due to bad saddle fit), and I don’t use the “make them move” method due to the issue you are having: the horse thinks it should move. Instead I do approach and retreat: I go through the steps to mounting but as soon as the horse shows any tension (usually lifting the head), then I back off. Then start again.

After riding, I will again retry mounting: a tired horse tends to take longer to get anxious and/or the warm back muscles can help the horse feel more comfortable.

This won’t work until you figure out why the horse is so anxious about being mounted though.