Runaway needs emergency brake!

[12hooves]

[QUOTE=TBlitz;3162830]
We had our closing hunt this weekend and when other horses in the field got out of control on a gallop alongside a road, my horse grabbed his bit (rubber mullen mouth pelham) and ran with them. He’s never done anything this bad before!

I couldn’t do a one-rein stop because we would have met our end on either the asphalt or in the ditch/barbed wire fence. I was trying to stop him with every single bit of my strength (which isn’t a joke in the least since I used to powerlift) and he didn’t respond at all. I tried pulling straight back, heavy half halts, sawing on his mouth, but no help there. I literally felt like I was trying to stop a moving freight train. Finally we came to a field and I was able to do a one-rein stop. I’ve been riding for quite a few years and have only felt this kind of lack of control once before in my life (thanks to stupid teenage ideas ).

What should I do if this instance happens again? Should I find a heavier bit that has an emergency brake on it? He’s got quite the messed up mind and super heavy mouth from endeavors prior to my ownership of him, and has issues with submission and any type of restraint. Should I send him out to pasture and wait 3 years to ride my little guy? Beat him over the head until he can read my mind?[/QUOTE]

From what you described, I don’t think you could have done anything but hang on and ride it out. Been there a few times. No bit is going to stop a horse that is in a group that is out of control. I’ve also been in situations where I had to bail off. It happens.

[Delphia]

TBlitz, I think you have your answer with longer shanks. I am the proud owner of a soft rubber pelham having short shanks that I bought for a sensitive OTTB. The sensitive OTTB is no more and I dare not use it on anything currently in my meadow.

You could try the 3-ring with one set of reins, but it works best with 2. I am currently trying a “Happy Mouth type” 3-ring with double joint mouth using 2 reins for trail riding after hunting last season with a double joint mouth 5" shank pelham which followed a single joint pelham which followed a Myler D snaffle which followed a full cheek single joint snaffle (aint eBay great!). On my big boned 16.2 TBxPaint gelding (5 1/2" mouth; size 3 shoe; lots of withers, deep chest, wants to go), I can not tell much difference between the 3-ring and the 5 inch shank pelham; both have similar length cheeks. I would like to try longer, say 6 inch. I would try my walking horse bit, but it has a 5 inch mouth. Maturity of an “english riding” horse owner is measured by the number of bits hanging idle in the tack room.

Catch the train before it leaves the station.

[sketcher]

[QUOTE=Showjumper28;3165027]
Um this may sound mean to some but I have been run off with and have found one thing that worked for me. I pulled up and back with hard jerks on both reins. Head comes up horse rocks back on their haunches and ends up stopping. It does seem mean, but when you feel you and your horses life is on the line, it works.[/QUOTE]

Anyone who has had a horse that has truly run away (I-don’t-care-if-I-get-hit-by-a car or-otherwise-maimed-or-killed type runaway) wold not have any problem with your method
Frankly, the few times I have been on a dangerous runaway I didn’t care what it took to stop them - even if it hurt a little.

[WW_Queen]

The only thing that I know of is a full bridge, starting near the top/midway down his neck, and quickly slide down towards his withers. The self-inflicted force can literally cause a horse to touch his chin to it’s chest.

Obviously if your horse runs away all the time, a bigger bit or maybe some more hilltopping would work?

A “run or die trying” horse could leave himself/you in a tragic situation. No need to mess with that if possible.

[poneegirl]

I know you can’t use these in the hunt field, but since I get to ride horses at a gallop in a crowd all the time in polo-I recommend you try draw reins on the top ring of a pelham or gag. I grew up with a horse that ran away with me. I tried all kinds of bits over the years. This horse just wouldn’t stop, he would jump anything in his path too, including 5ft gates. I started playing polo with him because it was my last ditch effort to find something he could do with his athleticism and after watching us streak down the field- the other players told me about draw reins. After 10 years of no stop, it was instantaneous response. He couldn’t get his head out and all his strength was gone due to the action of the draw. Try galloping your horse with draw reins on and he will lose the excitement and you should have control. When the excitement of the run lessens. then you can go back to your other bit for hunting.

[xeroxchick]

[QUOTE=Foxtrot’s;3167247]
I’ve only been run away with twice that I can remember. Once when I was about four and my Dad’s polo pony took be back home and the other time a couple of years ago when my mare thought a bear was coming at her after she smelled bear scat (rustle rustle in the trees).
I don’t know what I did - nothing probably - because she wasn’t listening anyway. I managed to steer clear of a spinny by yarding on one rein with all my feeble strength, but by then I think her brain had come back. It was like being on a runaway train - but we survived.[/QUOTE]

Really curious - what’s a “spinny?”

[TBPNW]

Sorry, I’ve never hunted, just lurking. I have OTTB’s and unraced and the OTTB’s are easiest to bring down. Given the cue, release of reins, relaxing, saying “that’s enough, you’re done now” with every ounce of confidence, can tell them they’ve had their run. Like what’s been said, they need a clearly conditioned cue. The OTTB’s just happen to already have one. I’ve nearly been launched out of the seat with how quickly they’ve come down. As much as they love running, they can also be lazy enough to love taking breaks. Horses at the track aren’t exercised for that long, are asked to come down even if many other horses are still whizzing by, are usually fitter, and they still can do it. Even though it might seem like they’ve lost their minds when they’re running off, I give OTTB’s a lot of credit for knowing better. A little different was one that was a runaway by increments. Little stronger, taking the bit a little more. He was in a Dr. Bristol when he came and stayed in it. He had a freight train feel but was “safe”, so I pretended (with everything I had) that I wanted him to keep getting faster and never held him back for the longest time. His attitude changed and was able to come down with no pulling. My husband and I test our brakes by playing out in the field, running past each other unexpectedly. It’s great fun to try to kill your spouse that way-so he must think. Also helps when the rest of the herd is going berserck doing large laps around you.

[jherold]

Probably not possible on a TB with a long neck, but on a smallish Quarter Horse, I once reached out and twisted an ear. I was desparate, had no control and a busy road was at the end of the field. Not necessarily an aproved method, but it worked!

[Foxtrot_s]

A spinny - little clump of trees.

[grabmaneandgo]

A friend of mine whose ridden my guy a bunch of times suggested that I use the pulley rein (one rein pulled directly back while other rests on the neck) anytime he ignores my half halts of just seat/leg rather than just half halting and pulling directly back harder. Don’t do it so hard to actually stop him but to get him to listen when he starts to get strong or quick…\ Usually he gets the message with the first light pulley rein.

I’ve been calling this a “check rein.” Not sure if that’s the right terminology, but when whichever horse I’m hunting decides to “lock and go,” I use a light pulley rein, with the active rein lifting slightly upward. It’s just enough to disengage their brains, which then seems to get them listening to me again. 'Course it then it becomes a challenge for me to ride the downward transition from warp speed to walk. LOL!

I’ve tried it on three horses so far, and it works great on all of them. After a one or two times with this method, they come out of the “lock and go” with very little bit action.

[LookinSouth]

@grabmaneandgo;3209876

I’ve been calling this a “check rein.” Not sure if that’s the right terminology, but when whichever horse I’m hunting decides to “lock and go,” I use a light pulley rein, with the active rein lifting slightly upward.

yeah I dunno about terminology either but a “check rein” is a good description. It is not really a true pulley rein but it quickly gets his attention. It’s an aid that he can’t just pull or lean against not to mention ignore.

[Equibrit]

@Foxtrot's;3177846

A spinny - little clump of trees.

Spinney!