I need suggestions for a pad for a downhill built horse. The saddle fits her but by midway through a ride it has slid forward and i have to dismount and reset it. When I pull it off you can see the ruffled hair so not good. I’m using a tacky pad but it’s not helping. Is there one you can suggest that might work for her?
Thanks.
Mattes makes a western “correction” pad that comes with a set of small shims. Other companies may also make pads with shims. Well-placed shims can level out the saddle without creating pressure points, but you might need to consult a good saddle fitter.
I have a downhill QH that I ride English. When I started using a Mattes correction pad it made a huge difference in his comfort and way of going. Saddle stays put and I don’t feel like I’m sitting on a playground slide any more!
You could try a wedge or shim pad. I have this one from classic equine that I used for a while when JD went thru a butt high growth spurt.
http://www.equibrand.com/BIOFIT-SHIM-PAD-p659/
i think you’re local to me - if you’d like to borrow it to try you are very welcome to. Just drop me a PM.
I do have a shim pad that has three per side that are removable so that is a thought. I’ll try it tomorrow and just use the front shims. Thanks!
Would you be willing to post pictures of your horse, and the current saddle fit?
Could be that your horse is just THAT downhill, but if your saddle is a little too wide, that will make it slide forward too (sometimes).
I have shims from Classic Equine that I sometimes use on certain horses.
http://www.horsesaddleshop.com/classic-equine-saddle-shims.html#.Vrz4n1JBncc
Easy to use and of course, can be used with any saddle pad.
I’m NOT a fan of tacky pads, so that may be part of your problem.
(I’m a 5 Star gal.)
You might want to consider getting a good Farrier to put on some pads and shoes in front, get the horse leveled up. I have seen this solution work successfully a number of times, horse is much happier not getting that harder impact on the front feet.
You won’t need special saddle padding, won’t need to be “fixing” the saddle and pad repeatedly during your riding time either.
Thanks for the responses. I have, in addition to the shim pad, a separate wither shim as well. She is barefoot and has a slightly clubby right front so I may consider the shoes with pads. I’ll try the shim pad with my diamond wool and go from there. I switched around pads trying a cool back, a wool pad, and the tacky and it slid forward no matter what.
Her saddle was custom fit to her shape and fits great. I was using a saddle that was too wide and that slid down a ridiculous amount. She’s very comfortable with this new saddle I just wish it would stay in place!
I tried adding shims to the front and these are very thin so didn’t make a hill of beans of difference. I was only lunging and had to stop twice to set it back and finally just pulled it off and when I wanted to ride I put it back on.
I really like the Cashel reverse wedge for a downhill horse. There are no lumps or bums that shims can cause, just a gradual transition.
http://www.horse.com/item/cashel-western-reverse-wedge-cushion-pad/E008616/
[QUOTE=PNW AMTS Dealer;8528621]
I really like the Cashel reverse wedge for a downhill horse. There are no lumps or bums that shims can cause, just a gradual transition.
http://www.horse.com/item/cashel-western-reverse-wedge-cushion-pad/E008616/[/QUOTE]
Yep, this is a nice pad. Ironically I also have one of these in my tack room that you would be welcome to try/have. 
I’d love to try it! I have one similar but made for an english saddle. Also, ironically, my English stays put and doesn’t move. Go figure. Are you home today Saturday? I can come pick up anytime. I live in Lake Stevens and horse is in Arlington. Thanks!
I just saw this, sorry about that. I’ll be home tomorrow and Monday if you want to come by. Just drop me a PM. I’ll go out and find it and clean the dust off.
PM sent.
Another one to take a look at is the Ricotti pad, I believe Toklat carries it.
[QUOTE=goodhors;8526714]
You might want to consider getting a good Farrier to put on some pads and shoes in front, get the horse leveled up. I have seen this solution work successfully a number of times, horse is much happier not getting that harder impact on the front feet.
You won’t need special saddle padding, won’t need to be “fixing” the saddle and pad repeatedly during your riding time either.[/QUOTE]
Huh, I had never heard of that.
My mare is an inch shorter in the front than in the back. I use the Toklat Matrix pad for my mare. I put the front shims in and it seems to work out really well with leveling the saddle. Sliding forward may be the saddle being too wide. My english saddle slid forward and had ruffled hair until I switched to a much thicker shim. Saddle was actually too wide.
I would not really recommend the BioFit pads. They are very thick, and that gel just moves away from pressure points and bunches up in other places.
I had her shod in front with wedge pads last night and I could really see a difference when he was done. I’m going to ride tonight and see how it goes and try UrbanHennery’s pad that she loaned me. Thanks UH!
[QUOTE=Mtn trails;8534797]
I had her shod in front with wedge pads last night and I could really see a difference when he was done. I’m going to ride tonight and see how it goes and try UrbanHennery’s pad that she loaned me. Thanks UH![/QUOTE]
I hope it works!
When I said pads and shoes to level the horse withers and rump heights, I meant rim or full pads around the hoof wall. Full Leather pads seems to work best, stays firmly put between the hoof and shoe. Same added pad height for the whole hoof wall. You don’t usually need much padding on the hoof, to gain enough on the shoulders to level the horse with rump top. You want him level front and hind to fix this downhill problem. I know there is a formula, don’t remember what it is, but the good Farrier should know it. The leather pads and shoes I have seen done to level the horse, are a traditional method, still with us from the past.
I don’t think just using wedge pads will do the leveling thing. So I would keep an eye on her front hooves to make sure horse is not crushing her heels on the wedges. With wedges, you have only lifted part of the hoof, her toes are still shorter, so shoulders are not fully lifted to equal the rump top. Horse is already coming down hard on those front feet, with all that weight behind driving down onto them each stride, so crushing her hoof heels would be a concern with harder impact on heels with wedges now.
Just wanting to point out the difference in what I suggested and what you have had done to the horse. But without some experimenting, you won’t see a difference. And there is nothing like a horse to make a liar out of a “works every time method” when offering advice! What I have explained with the full pads has worked on horses I know, have seen work, win well at shows. Gives you another option over constant equipment fiddling. I just hate that constant tinkering myself. With a downhill horse it never stops until they get front and hind of equal heights, takes gravity out of the picture so saddles stay put.
Think of your own feet in high heels, weight of body jams those toes down every step, just because of gravity. Toes are lowest, everything above loads them heavily. When you walk in flats, heels and toes take an equal load, toes are not jammed into the shoe toes with your body weight each step.
I am certainly no expert, but I question how changing the horse’s natural balance will effect their muscles and bone structure.
Which part of “natural balance” of this downhill horse are you referring to affecting? She is not well conformed by being down hill now, so I don’t think she has a lot of “good” natural balance in her body. Horse has to work to lift and move that front with all the weight on it now PLUS try to perform as asked. That is pretty hard work. Perhaps you are speaking of natural balance in her legs? Those same front legs taking all the extra weight, working much harder than they should be with down hill impact every step she takes? How much time will horse have in work, with front legs doing double duty with extra weight bearing and trying to work for rider? Horse is going to end up with extra issues, maybe arthritis and others, overloading those joints, hooves every step she takes.
Getting horse front and hind level, is going to take off the extra load in the front, since she won’t be downhill anymore. I would believe horse will be better able to do things physically, starting with walking evenly, gain a bit of agility in not having to lift front end AND move the weighted front legs to stay out of the way in turns. Horse moving at some bit of speed, even collecting for pivots, halts should be a lot easier for her front end without the extra weight. She won’t be working against herself anymore when front and hind are more equal in weight bearing when level.
