My expertise has been mainly in the buying, selling, breeding, breaking and training of TBs for racing. In the last few years we have scaled that back somewhat. Spending more of my time and utilizing more of our farm re-schooling mostly our home breds who have retired from the track and or didn’t show me enough to warrant the expense of sending to the race track and see what happens. Along with horses that are either given and or sent to us to re-home by caring owners. I grew up in what most would call a high end show horse family at one time. My mother did a lot of show horse trading. I have a lot of friends in the sport and show side of horses. My brother in-law is a pretty high profile H/J trainer. My sister is no slouch in the saddle or ring. Other then fox hunters and or steeplechase horses I don’t know the market that well for Eventers, H/J. I rely on others advise when it comes to pricing. But I do know a good horse when I see one or ride one. Regardless of the breed or discipline. Pretty fundamental.
A lot of good advise in this thread. Especially to be prepared to have/give the full asking price. I hate haggling. If I look at a horse that is worth the money I give it. I don’t feel I have to offer say $500 less to feel I am getting a good deal, a fair deal. I know horses I have been very lucky to have made a career of it. I can size of a horse in short order.
You have to in the racing TB side. We have a matter of minutes at times to decide if we are going to give, $10,000 or $100,000 for a yearling. High stakes, high stress.
So it is really quite amusing dealing with $5,000± buyers and what the lengths and hassle they go through. Don’t get me wrong buying a horse and even taking one for free is a major commitment. But I have found a LOT of buyers are really, really unrealistic in their expectations of value for money. Especially when it comes to buying a nice TB. I am not talking about ones fresh off the track. The comment I hear most when people come and look/try our horses is, wow, if TBs were like this one I would have been looking at them a long time ago. My response is, these are not the exception. When properly raised, trained and worked with they can hold their own with any breed.
Horse trading is the second oldest profession. IMO and experience the majority are fair and honest. But we don’t hear a lot about those. We only hear about the nefarious types.
To get a “good deal” and or not missing on a horse that is well worth the money is the same as buying anything. Be well educated. If a buyer does not have a lot of experience they should pay someone who does. I describe our horses exactly as they are. Their exact size, conformation, abilities and any “holes”. IMO every horse that has a price on it is an “asking price”. If it is priced as “firm” and I don’t think the horse is worth the price I won’t make an offer. If I know the price is negotiable but we are “playing is two different ball parks” I won’t make an offer. I know how to do my own PPE and will do so before I make an offer. If I think there maybe something “under the skin” that should be looked at I make the offer pending x-rays. I pretty always make an offer and or agree to the purchase price subject to blood work. Which is taken the same day and or the next. Unless I know the seller.
My major pet peeve is when a buyer calls and asks if I will take less. Drives me crazy. They haven’t laid an eye on the horse let alone put their leg over them. For all they know it could be the deal of the century. I will do pictures and video but have found it is not always fair to the horse, seller and the buyer.
If I have a horse priced at say $15,000 and someone calls and says my budget is around $10,000 are you open to offers. I am always open to reasonable offers. Considering I have heard over and over again I under sold I think my prices are fair. So, I expect the buyer to meet me somewhere in the middle. Or at least be prepared to.
I don’t like my time being wasted and I feel the same about wasting a buyers time. I’ve been on both sides. I tell people the horse may or may not be for you. It is subjective after all but you will not be wasting you time.
Number one complaint of just about all sellers are people not showing up at the expected times, give or take. Or cancelling at the last minute and or hours after the fact. Even worse not calling at all.
I am more apt to give a “good deal” to a “known” trainer, agent in hopes of future business. I do not do side deals and or give kick backs. All of the sales documents must be signed by the principal. Full disclosure is paramount. In most cases I require a purchase and sales agreement that states the purchase price, commissions and conditions of purchase. To bind the contract a deposit is required. The deposit is only refundable if the horse fails the “conditions of purchase”.
The best time to buy a horse, mid to late winter. Especially a long cold one.
Or as Secretariat said in their last paragraph. Still has me chuckling.
Sorry for not being as concise as others. Not my nature. Don’t get off the farm much.