Size for rear cinch and billets

I have bought a used children’s saddle which came with no rear billets, cinch or front latigo for that matter. I bought an nylon web latigo for the front but no billets are currently available in town so will have to order online.
I don’t mind doing that but I don’t know how to measure for size.
The saddle is a 12’ seat, pony is 11h. Front cinch is 26"
thank you.

Do you really need a rear cinch? I never use one, never had a rear cinch on the kid’s saddles either. The main reason is because the rear cinch falls exactly where your heels will be touching the horse for signals. Same for the kids heels. So when you applied pressure, kicked, horse never felt the touch to move on.

I have a collection of about 5 billets and rear cinche sets to go back on saddles when I sell them.

Unless horse is used for roping, I find the back cinch more of a burden than being useful. Roping, the rear cinch holds the rear of saddle down for more even pressure on the horse’s back.

I know a lot of people don’t use the rear cinch with no apparent issues but I do think they serve several purposes. One of which is the front cinch does not need to be as tight for pleasure riding if there is a rear cinch. Many people leave the rear cinch floppy loose but they should be snug.
I can probably get away without for a time as the intended riders are still leadline.

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We use a Y breastcollar on all the western saddles, so if the front cinch works loose, not checked often, the saddle will only turn so far. Can’t go under the horse, even with rider hanging halfway off.

I don’t cut the horse in half with the cinch, check tightness at 15 minutes, again at an hour. I don’t see how the rear cinch will help keep saddle from turning in place, especially if not REALLY tight. Then it is almost a bucking strap, even with connector to front cinch! No withers, just wide back, round stomach back there. I do see way too many loose, floppy, hanging down rear girth, never looked at after being girthed up. An accident waiting to happen.

If the saddle comes with a rear cinch it’s made to be used. You don’t have to cut the horse in two with it but it should be snug. If you have the rear cinch hobble in place there’s no way it will act like a bucking strap. I check my hobble periodically to make sure it’s not going to come loose or is worn. A bucking strap goes right in front of the stifles.


If to use a back cinch depend on how the saddle rigging is made.
If a full oe 7/8 rigging, you should use a flank cinch to keep the back of the saddle down and steady when doing more than walking around.
If less, down to a 3/4 rigging, old saddles and ones on A frames, like Wade saddles, tend to be 3/4, then you can do without, even roping.

Some saddles have two slots for the cinch, like the Monte Foreman ones and you can use them as a full, 7/8 or 3/4 and combinations of those.

Here is some about this:

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If the saddle has a spot for the rear girth it is designed to be used with one. Just because many people adjust incorrectly is not a good reason not to use one.
Think about a backpack, one strap fairly tight or two not quite as tight.

I do know many people don’t use one with no problem. I want to use one for the youth saddle, any help for the pony to keep the saddle from bouncing while teaching a youngster to ride is good.

Still wondering how to measure…

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Very interesting how positions have changed. My old saddle is full double rigging. Some of the new options, being able to change the girth position is pretty cool.

I have determined the width of the billets, will figure out the length of cinch and go from there.

As others have said, if the saddle is rigged for a rear cinch, then one should be used. It’s imperative that the rear cinch is snug - not “tight” like the front cinch, but not loose - for safety and effectiveness. It drives me batty to see loose/floppy rear cinches. For one thing, they serve no functional purpose like that. For another, it’s extremely dangerous!

On the safety note, I highly recommend replacing your nylon latigo strap with a leather one. Leather is much less likely to slip or rip at an inopportune moment than nylon.