Snaffle to Shank Bit?

[AshleyandAnnabel]

Hi everyone!

I am switching over from showjumping and eventing to endurance riding and I’m really excited! My first race is in November. I have a 14 y/o Thoroughbred mare. Because of our previous history, I’ve shown her in dressage in a snaffle, and did XC and SJ in a pelham because she is very strong. I still do dressage work as part of her conditioning in a snaffle but when I get her out on the trail with other horses she can get pretty strong in her early stages of training. I’ve also taken a few reining lessons where the horses are ridden in shank bits and are taught to carry their head by pressure and release of the shank. I believe my mare might respond incredibly well to this as it was part of her dressage training (and she went around on a longer frame anyway to keep her relaxed). I normally think of shank bits for western riders, but has anyone ever used one on an english horse?

[hank]

That is the beauty of endurance riding…you get to use whatever works! Good luck and have fun!

[Huntin_Pony]

Pelhams and full bridles both give the option to “use” the shank. Yes, we English folks tend to keep contact on the snaffle rein also, but once the curb is engaged, the horse is operating off the poll and chin pressure to varying degrees. You still have the snaffle for direct rein aids.

If your horse wants to be direct-reined even some of the time, you’d want a broken-mouth (a.k.a. jointed) shank bit, to preserve the independent action on each side. I have heard that many western trainers prefer an “Argentine snaffle” for the transition from snaffle to curb. To me, it looks a lot like a short-shank jointed pelham. It has an option for a snaffle rein as well as the curb rein.

So, if your pelham is not enough on the trail, you might want a longer shank or a combination bit. It’s obviously up to you whether you can forego the snaffle rein or not.

[saratoga]

I would definitely try different bits or hackamores and see what works…but try it before the endurance ride of course! In my experience, different bits work differently for different horses so you don’t really know for sure til you try.

[poltroon]

I would try a pelham or a three ring gag, with two reins.

YMMV, but actually I really dislike having only the curb rein on a horse that wants to get strong with me. It is much harder to do the suppling and use some of the tricks in my toolbox like shoulder-fore and bending without that snaffle rein. A curb only can end up with the horse evading you by overflexing and then you have fewer options for getting the horse paying attention and minding you.

[RPM]

I have ridden hunt seat in a rubber pelham and double reins.

If your horse goes well XC and SJ in a pelham, why not try endurance in that same bit? What kind of pelham is yours? Rubber mouth, ported, jointed, mullen? Do you ride with double reins in it? To me a pelham with a single rein is sort of an oxymoron but I see people doing it quite often.

[AshleyandAnnabel]

I just feel the extra rein would be a pain in the rear for such a long ride. I really didn’t like the extra rein on cross country. I have a two ring “bubble” bit that I can try to use. A lot of people use only the bottom ring, even though your supposed to use two reins and a snaffle. I’m just trying to train my mare to have a more longer stretched out connection (like in western or hunters) so she will relax more on our ride and not waste energy compared to the type of shorter connection we had in dressage. With using just a curb I’m hoping to teach her that pressure means “woah” (half halt or halt) and release means to carry herself. Maybe I’ll use my pelham for flatwork and try the curb for the trail.

[RPM]

I hear ya about the double reins on a long ride.

Yet people used to hunt all day in double bridles so it can be done.

Hopefully western experts will chime in here but I think one reason western horses tend to go long and low in a curb is because they work without contact (as I think you mentioned wanting earlier). The rider only takes up on the reins to give a cue, and only a light touch then? I wouldn’t switch to a western curb just to keep my horse from getting strong.

But endurance is so different from cross country jumping that I have no idea how a horse gets strong on an endurance course.

[Christa_P]

I trail ride in a pelham with 2 reins. If you pick the right reins for your hands it really is no big deal. When trail riding I mostly ride with the reins loosely held in 1 hand, but I have gotten good at quickly picking them up correctly so I have full use of the bit.

My previous TB went in a half-moon, double joint pelham, my current OTTB goes in a short shank mullen mouth pelham.

[Halcyon_Days]

I really like the myler short shank western curb bits, and I compete in endurance rides–they still have the independent side action, and I can easily go back and forth from one hand to two, horses seem to understand it very well, plenty of finesse and brakes as needed, and lateral suppleness as well–I train trail and endurance horses, so more than a one rat study

[ehwaz]

I personally like the myler kimberwicks for my forward mare. I typically start the ride on the lower hook (curb) and then move up to the snaffle loop later in the ride. I like having the flexibility of switching quickly depending on conditions.

[RPM]

ehwaz, is your kimberwick an Uxeter?

[prudence]

We start off in western Tom Thumb bits and often switch to “S” hackamores at a vet check. The start of a ride can be exciting for a horse and the shank bit does get their attention. We use them carefully and rely more on our seats for control, so mostly it’s insurance against getting run away with. Later things have mellowed out and I’ve even gone to just a halter. A hackamore or halter allows the horse to drink and eat more readily on the trail and you want them to do both to keep up hydration and gut sounds.

We are also from the English world and I started one boy on trails in a double bridle - amazed I could readily hold the 4 reins especially when they got sweaty. But it’s easier to use something simpler. Have fun!

[chicamux]

Well I really despise a single jointed mouthpiece with shanks. Yuck! But I do believe that a leverage bit often works well for many horses. A nice single rein bit is a Myler Kimberwick with the comfort snaffle mouthpiece. The double swiveling joints will prevent a nutcracker effect of the jaw. The mouthpiece will not jab the horse in the roof of the mouth. You will have a moderate leverage wffect with the mini shanks of the kimberwick but can still direct rein.

[starrunner]

Have you tried some of the hackamores? Lots of braking power and a lot of horses are more comfortable to eat and drink on the trail with them.

[Guilherme]

[QUOTE=AshleyandAnnabel;8343893]
Hi everyone!

I am switching over from showjumping and eventing to endurance riding and I’m really excited! My first race is in November. I have a 14 y/o Thoroughbred mare. Because of our previous history, I’ve shown her in dressage in a snaffle, and did XC and SJ in a pelham because she is very strong. I still do dressage work as part of her conditioning in a snaffle but when I get her out on the trail with other horses she can get pretty strong in her early stages of training. I’ve also taken a few reining lessons where the horses are ridden in shank bits and are taught to carry their head by pressure and release of the shank. I believe my mare might respond incredibly well to this as it was part of her dressage training (and she went around on a longer frame anyway to keep her relaxed). I normally think of shank bits for western riders, but has anyone ever used one on an english horse?[/QUOTE]

Curbs can be used on any type of horse as long as the rules of the discipline being followed permit.

The English based disciplines use a variety of bit types. If you want a couple of good references to the various types of bits and their uses then I suggest you Google “William Langdon bits” and you’ll his work. I’ve got his Bits and Bitting Manual. and Training With Bits. As with all authors you have to decide what, if any, of his suggestions you want to use. His explanations and examples of function are excellent, however.

The Army (and many European militaries) used a double bridle (bit and bradoon) routinely.

The Pelham with four reins is a good choice for the horse that gets “strong” in the field. I’ve got a mare like that and it adds a “loudhailer” so you can “communicate” with her when the “static” of being in the open prevents her from hearing what you are “saying” with your hand.

If you have to use the bit as a “brake” then you’ve got a training issue. Address that before you go any farther.

As mouthpiece type, I’ve gotten the best response from her using a Myler Comfort with a roller. I’ve used Pelhams with the traditional broken mouthpiece, French link, and others that I don’t remember. Since the Myler works good that’s what I stay with.

G.

[tabula_rashah]

Both of my girls go very well in the Myler Combo bits. I really like that they distribute the pressure over the nose and the poll as well as the mouth piece. They also have multiple rein attachments so you can adjust as per how much bit you need.

[SonnysMom]

I foxhunt in my Myler combo bit-2 reins. I have also used the “bubble bit” with 2 reins. The galloping in the big group with the hounds really amps things up. While riding in 2 reins isn’t fun using only one on these types of bits IMO is not fair to your horse. You could do what other suggest and start your ride with a bit that requires 2 reins and switch to one you only need 1 rein.

Generally I go on bigger trail rides and pace events with a eggbutt waterford. Decent brakes and steering but only 1 rein. Choose your waterfod carefully there are different shapes to the little baubles, some are a little harsher than others due to the shape.

I saw somebody suggested a hackamore. If you don’t know how to properly fit a mechanical hackamore you can do some real damage. Find somebody that really knows how to fit one to help you select the right one and to fit it properly. I know enough to know I am not comfortable doing this and since I only really know English riders none know how to fit a mechanical hackamore. Therefore I won’t try one as I am too afraid of doing more harm than good.

I used to ride at a hack barn full of Arabian horses. 95% of them went in a mechanical hackamore. They were much happier with no bits in the mouth and heavy handed beginners. They were obedient in the hacks. The owner was a long time Western horseman and he knew how to properly fit them. Regretfully I didn’t learn from him and he has since died.