Spinoff: height of shafts

[Miss_Anne_Thrope]

How critical is the height of the shafts on a 4-wheeled wagon? I guess a better question is how critical is it that the shafts run parallel to the ground?

The shafts on my wagon seem a little low for my pony, and I was thinking I had to somehow lower the tugs (they’re as low as they go right now, though), and then I saw the thread about using a riser to increase height using a riser block (but that’s on a 2-wheeled cart), which got me to thinking about how to increase the height of the shafts.

I think the tugs used to hang a bit lower, but the increased fatness of my pony has, in effect, raised the tugs a bit (but that’s a topic for another thread!).

Anyway, before I go to too much trouble to resolve this, I’m wondering if it’s really necessary. I’ve seen pictures of ponies and horses hitched to wagons with the shafts at all different angles, and I even saw one where the shafts ran parallel to the ground, but they were below the pony’s belly.

[2tempe]

See below from an article on carriage fitting. the shafts should rest in the tugs at a point roughly the middle of the horse’s barrel.

[I]In a two-wheeled cart, the wheel size determines how high the axle, seat and basket will be from the ground. In carts such as a meadowbrook or easy-entry, the shafts should be level (parallel to the ground) when they sit in the tugs of the harness so that the cart can balance properly. A very slight upward slope may be acceptable but the shafts should never point downhill. The height of the tugs can be adjusted a little to help make the shafts level.

On a jog cart, the shafts are not meant to be level due to the smaller wheels [/I]and low height that are customary on these vehicles. In a four-wheeled vehicle, the shafts will not be level since they are connected to the cart at a point that is much lower to the ground and balance is not a factor since there are four wheels supporting the cart.

[Miss_Anne_Thrope]

Thanks! That’s what I was thinking, so it’s good to have that confirmed.

[goodhors]

Height of shafts, levelness of shafts on 4-wheeler vehicle is a lot less important than on a 2-wheeler. Still should not be a BIG difference in unlevel, pointing at the sky or dirt. That will change the draft (draught) angle, making vehicle harder to pull, when harness traces are attached too low on the vehicle. Animal gets tired faster hauling his load when he must pull way uphill with his trace line.

Shafts on a 4-wheeler are a control point for the horse, so he can direct the vehicle in turns, hold it for halt or backing. Not a load-bearing point.

Shaft on a 2-wheeler are PART of the whole system of balance and control of the vehicle. Equine carries weight on his back thru the shafts. Having them riding level is REALLY important for his comfort, ride of the passengers, control of the vehicle.

Most 4-wheelers are made to sizes, pony, cob, horse, large horse, that keeps the shafts more horizontal on the equine’s sides. True in the antiques, more common buggies and wagons sold for pleasure riding in newer vehicles. Modern Marathon vehicles are another ball game, rules change there.

You have disadvantages with shafts pointing up or down, catching a rein or bridle on shaft tip is a possible problem when shafts stick up too high. Angle of tips up high can cramp the turning radius of the front end in 4-wheelers with raised shaft heels catching on the front of vehicle because they are not vertical now, but beyond vertical. Heels to curve are now behind the connection points on the front axle, too close to the carriage dash. You can’t make the turn you planned, startles the horse with restriction, so it can be unsafe to drive horse to that vehicle with shafts up so high.

You also do not want shafts down too low on his sides he can hit himself on the sides with his stifle and elbow, get a leg over the shaft or trace.

It sounds like you just need a new pair of shafts that have a higher rise from axle connection to bend at the cross piece behind the animal. Shafts are easily made to fit all sizes of animals, not really expensive to purchase a second pair. Much the easiest and safest way to have things back fitting pony correctly for safe driving.

The harness has been lowered as far as possible, maker does not put longer straps for tug loops because it would be unsafe having lower shafts. So the vehicle shafts need changing to raise their height on his sides. If you are getting them made for pony, get them sized so they ride level, at the height needed on his sides. Witmer’s Coach shop sells and ships shafts all the time. I am sure they or another carriage shop can help you get the correct sized shafts for your pony and wagon.

[Miss_Anne_Thrope]

[QUOTE=goodhors;8421743]

It sounds like you just need a new pair of shafts that have a higher rise from axle connection to bend at the cross piece behind the animal. Shafts are easily made to fit all sizes of animals, not really expensive to purchase a second pair. Much the easiest and safest way to have things back fitting pony correctly for safe driving. [/QUOTE]

That’s good to know. I think we’re actually OK for now, but if I need new shafts, I bet there’s a local Amish guy that could make them for me.

[gothedistance]

Just want to echo goodhors’ advice as being 100% correct. AND her advice to get a new pair of shafts can’t be underestimated if one wants to make their driving horse/pony as comfortable - and safe - in the job as possible. Worth not only a second read, but a sticky at the top of this forum.