We are in the process of building a barn in FL. Does anyone have any suggestions for stall front hardware?
I boarded at a barn that had these & covet them to this day:
http://www.lucasequine.com/lucas-equine/pinlockassemblylatchzinc-plated.htm
Easy to operate with a horse in one hand & pretty snag-proof < once saw a horse rip open a shoulder on a latch*, just walking into the stall.
*this type (which I have on my stalls now):
I will second Lucas Equine. I have stall doors that I got from them more than ten years ago and they have held up very well.
http://www.freybrothersinc.com/frey-brothers-inc/#/stalls/
Another quality manufacturer. Our stall fronts are similar to photo 4 and are going strong after 20+ years.
I’m definitely interested in your directions. We’re looking to redo ours! Thanks in advance!
From the picture, you can see clearly (I think) that we used 2x8 spaced 2" apart for the basic front and side walls. This was to add ventilation through the barn --solid walls block air flow --HOWEVER if you have ponies or foals in the stalls, I would not do this as their little hooves can become caught in that small of a space. Our side walls were 2x8s to the ceiling, also spaced. The use of 2x8s to the ceiling was cheaper than using a rebar grill as we did on the front. The horses could see each other, but not touch each other. We used screws to hold the 2x8s into the 8x8 square supports. We put a 2x4 vertical against the 8x8, made a “lip” by putting the 2x4 slightly inside so the 2x8s (horizontal) would rest flush against the support allowing the sliding doors to open.
Now the grids --rebar comes in lengths -were I to do this over, I’d pick a 36 inch length of rebar instead of a 24. At the time the savings justified the shorter length. Girls and I used a power drill with a 1" bit. I believe we used #7 rebar --oh, tried conduit first --it bent --so went to rebar. We marked the holes 4" center --again --if you have smaller critters, this may be too wide. the grids were made in 2x4 frames. We made a small pilot hole followed by a 1 inch (approximately) deep hole in the bottom 2x4 --NOW THIS IS THE COOL PART! We drilled complete though the top 2x4. COMPLETELY through --we added the end 2x4 pieces (everything flat on the floor), then could slide the rebar through the top hole (little help from a hammer) into the half drilled hole on the bottom 2x4. TA DA done --but --should a horse hang up in the rebar --hoof through --all you have to do is LIFT THE REBAR UP and it will go into the top 2x4 enough that you can then take it completely out of the bottom – FYI I’ve never had a horse hang up --but good to know what to do if I did.
Doors were done similarly --but we did cheat a bit (it’s a stable, not a church) by actually making the doors out of 1 inch exterior grade plywood sheets (cut hole for grid), then “framing” them with 2x6 (rebar done the same on the doors). We didn’t have a metier box or the math skills to make the criss- crosses on the doors perfect, but in all these years, not one horse has complained. Biggest cost for us was the sliding track for the doors. But, we used a lot of seconds and scrap --if you go to a real lumber store, they generally have a pile of seconds or scrap --wood with knot holes, or slightly bent or bowed. The girls and I were able to salvage much of our lumber --horses don’t care if there’s a knot hole.
My neighbor said she thought it was a waste of time/money to do the grids --but --I like to know that when I put a horse in a stall it will be there --no jumping out, climbing out or hanging its head out. While we were making the stalls, we did use them without the grids, and one horse bit one of the girls as she led another horse past. I want those heads in!
One other thing. One of the men I ride with made his stalls in a similar manner --but he sanded and varnished all his wood before assembly. That would have been easy to do and maybe taken only a day --the result is much more professional looking --but on the other hand --it doesn’t work any better than my rough lumber. If you plan to paint --or stain --do it before you assemble --real time saver.
Again, we only needed a drill, Skil saw, measuring tape, and hammer --we had saw horses --probably could have used a metier box or level or angle iron --but we didn’t have those.
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