Stall Overhang Roof Supported by Posts

[Lucy_in_the_Sky]

We are just about to start building a new 4-stall barn which has a 60 feet long back wall. All of the back stall doors will open directly into fenced turnouts. This time I have decided to have an 8 feet wide overhang above the stall doors so this is being achieved by a main gable roof that changes to a gently sloping roof for the lower back overhang section. I have 6 posts supporting the bottom edge of the overhang, one every 12 feet.

My builder has just asked whether I would prefer the overhang part of the roof to be cantilevered instead of being supported by posts. Has anybody tried the cantilevered approach and can you please advise whether this will work safely in a horse turnout area. I know that there can also be issues with having posts in turnouts but they seem very popular for holding up an overhang.

I have seen so many beautiful shedrow barns with posts supporting the overhang. Also many breezeway barns with overhangs at either side that are supported by posts. All look good and my eye is drawn towards that style. What I really don’t see are wider overhangs, cantilevered, but no posts and I am wondering why. Whichever way we go, the roof trusses will be engineered to take the load.

Thanks for any advice you have to offer.

[danacat]

@Lucy in the Sky

What I really don’t see are wider overhangs, cantilevered, but no posts and I am wondering why. Whichever way we go, the roof trusses will be engineered to take the load.

Thanks for any advice you have to offer.

An unsupported 8 ft. overhang would demand very expensive, super engineered trusses which is why you don’t see this type of construction. Really not feasable because an unsupported 60 x 8 ft. overhang is basically a sail that could blow off or get damaged in a wind storm (unless steel is used) + snow load is also a factor.

Posts obviously create an anchor for the overhang and beefy headers will support snow load. An engineer can tell you how far apart your posts need to be, according to the wind rating and snow load in your area.

[clanter]

if the concern is room for the spacing of the support posts you could go to laminated beams between the posts to reduce the number of posts

[Simkie]

The reason you don’t see cantilevered overhangs is they would cost a FORTUNE!! :eek: I think it would ROCK to have no posts to chew, or rub butts on, but you’d have to be made of money for something like that.

[trubandloki]

Did the builder mention a price difference for the no post design? If not I would ask them how they planned to accomplish the no post design.

[Lucy_in_the_Sky]

Thank you all for responding and you make a good point about the expected high price of cantilevered trusses. I will ask about the difference in pricing for post support versus cantilevered - for interest sake at least.

[gumtree]

I don’t think this would add that much to the costs. But everybody has a different idea of “added costs”. The “basic rule of thumb” is the over hang can only be a 1/4 of the width, span of the structure. The type of beams needed will be dictated by the “loads” put on it. The weight of the overhanging portion of the roof and more importantly because you are in Canada, snow loading. I would think the pitch of the roof would need to be steep enough that the majority of snow will slide off. Wind loading, “up lift” will come into play but I don’t see this being “expensive” to design for.

These are all pretty simple calculations because the needed “data” has already been figured out for any given area, location. These “numbers” can be easily had and plugged into a math formula that can be found on any number of internet sites. The “results” will dictate the size and type of beams that will be needed. Any company that custom manufactures laminated beams will do the math for free. IMO worth checking into.

If you do get a quote let us know the pricing.

[julesp313]

The barn at our recently purchased hobby farm has the exact set up you describe, posts and all. I like that the stalls lead to three individual dry lots, but the support posts have been chewed on and rubbed on and will likely need some rehab in the coming years. However, I think it does provide a sturdier roof and here in MN with winds and snow, I’m all about sturdy! Curious to see how a cantilevered design stands up to the rigors of nature - I wonder if anyone has such a thing?

[Simkie]

This is the only thing I could find online about cantilevering a pole barn:

http://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2015/03/cantilever-roof-overhang/

(The site’s slow to come up, but will eventually.)

[Scarlet_Gilia]

Are metal posts an option for you? This place came with an existing shedrow barn; it has round metal posts holding up the overhang. When we added a tack room and hay storage area, it was no problem to get additional matching posts made at a local iron fabricator. No damage from chewing or butt rubbing, and they are easily painted with spray paint if needed.

Another possibility is wrapping wood posts in metal. We recently added metal siding over the old plywood on the shedrow. I was amazed at the variety and colors of metal trims that are available (including a post trim), plus they will make a custom trim. My stall door frames are now wrapped in trim with color coordinated screws and no sharp edges.

[Plumcreek]

If your roof slope changes at the overhang, and you are in snow country, the snow will pile up a little or a lot where the slope changes. I only do very slight slope changes to a post supported overhang unless it is on a direct south side with fast snow melt. Here in Colorado, I have seen 6’ overhangs without posts - enough to keep snow from blocking doors. However, unless the dividing turnout fences are lines up with each post, 8’ between post and barn wall is pretty small for a horse to spin around in. .

[red_mares]

@Simkie

This is the only thing I could find online about cantilevering a pole barn:

http://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2015/03/cantilever-roof-overhang/

(The site’s slow to come up, but will eventually.)

I see set ups like this every time I go to Amish country (NE Indiana/NW Ohio). It’s pretty common to see an 8’ unsupported overhang on a barn - their hitching post is below it. It allows them to keep a horse tied out of the weather, and not have to dodge a support post with a buggy when they leave. They do it like the article describes - the truss is just wider than the width of the barn.

I suspect most of their barns are considerably larger than yours, so I’m not sure it would work on a shedrow.