Summer pasture management

3 horses, 8+ acres of pasture. Countless deer :face_with_symbols_over_mouth: They are out at night now (deer too :roll_eyes:), rotated between 3 pastures, generally one week on/2 weeks off. We have had neither a particulary rainy nor particularly dry summer, southeastern PA, with predominantly clay soil.

It seems like 15% of the available pasture is eaten down to nothing. I have been super busy this summer so I haven’t been able to do my usual thing of picking/throwing the manure from the “roughs” to the overgrazed areas to divert the grazing, which I know helps a bit with this, but jeeeeeeeeeez. I don’t know why my pastures are 85% untouched/15% overgrazed. What am I doing wrong?

I’m pretty close to you in south central PA, I agree, pretty typical weather wise. Have you been able to mow? That makes a big difference for me.

I don’t mean to hijack, but have similar concerns/questions. My pasture is split in half, and I rotate every two weeks. Plenty of grass left, only one favorite grazing spot is eaten down. For the past two weeks or so, my herd won’t leave they hay in their dry lot to go graze. It’s making me nuts.

When I rest a pasture, I drag, then mow, then put down a weed and feed fertilizer. I wonder if I need to aerate and seed the hell out of it this fall. I seeded last spring with a pasture blend, which is probably the first time it’s ever been seeded. I don’t know what kind of grass is predominantly in their pasture, but they won’t touch a lot of it.

ETA: Where I used to board, horses each had their own 1/2-1 acre grass paddock. They grazed year round (when dry) for 5-7 hours a day. Pasture management consisted of brush hogging twice a year. No manure management, no seeding, no fertilizing. HOW DID THEY DO IT?! I want my grass to be that nice!

Your Summers are actually pretty similar to ours here in north central NC, and we also have clay.

What’s the mowing been like this year, and what has past liming/fertilization been like?

Most likely the lack of manure removal, or spreading, is the reason. A single pile can make a relatively large are around it inedible. Plus, anywhere they pee makes it icky for a while.

Are the overgrown areas actually grass, or is there a good be of weed content mixed in?

In our grass walks, our horses will go off some grass species that is fully mature and seeded out. It gets very coarse. My vacuum cleaner mare has also refused some grass hay that is palatable to other horses. I mean won’t eat at all, even after 24 hours.

I would look at maturity level and species, see if there’s any pattern.

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Mostly keeping up with the mowing - as good if not better than most places I see :smiley: It’s lush grass in the parts they’re not eating, definitely not just weeds. I did not do any fertilizing or herbicide this spring - busy with other stuff, and honestly, I thought with a reduced group of horses maybe it would be ok to skip it this year. It’s definitely always hit or miss though with getting any of that done - not on a great consistent schedule, really just as I have time.

Interesting about the maturity level and grass species. I am by no means an expert on that kind of thing. Would this be something a county extension agent could help with?

I kinda wonder to what extent - if any - the current herd dynamics play into this as well. The “boss” is a weeny chicken of a horse who can be afraid of his own shadow and doesn’t really have the confidence to go where the barn seems too far away. Definitely not a born leader :laughing: He would MUCH prefer to stand closer to the gate with a pile of hay than go out of sight of the barn door for grass :roll_eyes: We have had easily twice the number of horses on the same farm and I don’t remember this kind of extremes between over & under grazed. I put down my oldest horse almost 2 years ago and he was truly meticulous about only pooping at the very edge of his field. So much so that I would see him canter across the field and I’d know he was running to his “bathroom” :laughing: Without him to keep order in the field - training the new horses where to go - maybe I have to be really dedicated about the manure picking?

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Your tax $$ is there so s/he will come out and help with this. It’s absolutely something worth calling about and scheduling. Get a soil test while they’re out to see what liming needs to be done, what fertilization, and the timing of it all.

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I know we’ve had more rain than in previous years, but my fields look much better and I attribute that to liming and fertilizing, and overseeding, in the fall and spring. Also, I’m having my grass cutters go through every month and that has kept the weeds under control.

Mow frequently. It’s aesthetically nice to have pastures that have tall, waving, lush grass, but as grass gets taller it forms more structure to help it stand upright. And it becomes tougher. It may not look it to you, but the horses know, and they move past the tall stuff to selectively eat the shorter, more tender, and sweeter grasses.

Of course, the type of grass matters too. My horses also selectively choose to eat patches of crabgrass, even as I am trying to get rid of it. And if they ever find white clover, it becomes the premier item on their menu until it is eaten down to dirt.

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Interesting how long folks leave horses on pasture before rotating to another field! There would not be a blade of anything left in the fields here after 2 weeks of grazing. No way could it recover with a week or two of rest. My fields are smaller, could not tolerate that heavy grazing pressure.

I DO fertilize yearly, using a soil test to provide what minerals are needed to grow good pasture. Lime is only one component to balancing what the pastures need, so nutrition provided would be a very skewed diet if I only limed them.

My pastures are usually in excellent condition, providing all the forage needed to keep 8-9 large horses in excellent shape all summer. Horses are only on pasture about 12-14 hours, stalled the rest of rhe time. Rain is always a concern, it keeps the grass growing well. Sometimes we get some drought in the heat of summer.

I rotate fields often, seldom leaving them on a particular field for more than 3 days. Fields are smaller, so they can get “too short” very easily. There are a variety of forage plants in them, which each do best in our changing weather conditions. Letting grazing get too short allows weeds to get started, bald spots to happen and grow large.

As mentioned, mowing helps grass production of plants horses will eat. We mow when grass gets over 8-10 inches tall, cut no shorter than 5 inches. Horses ignore tall, heavy growth, lush looking spots because it is tougher, not tasty. They prefer shorter grasses, which are more tender. Keep grazing those short places often, maybe creating bald spots. I don’t mow when it is droughty. The taller grass leaves that horses ignore, poop spots, will protect soil, plant roots from sunburn, rain erosion when it does finally rain again…

Please consider rotating the horses thru the pastures more often to reduce their impact on the grazing and regrowth. Mow high to encourage grass regrowth and keep weeds under control.

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Well, that all depends on the size and quality of the field, right? Two horses on 20 sparse acres can be managed much more casually than six horses on three lush acres.

I rotate and mow frequently myself, but that’s largely because I have horses with very different nutritional needs, and want to preserve both the grass and their good health. With three horses on 11 very green acres, I have to pay attention or the pony will founder and the ground’ll be toast. A person in a different climate, with less sensitive horses, doesn’t have to be such a fuss pot.

I agree about mowing, especially if you have unpalatable grass species that take over if not mowed at exactly the right time. Climate change makes a difference too. I’d definitely call your local extension service about that. They’re usually really good about exactly that kind of thing.

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I have been told that stressed grasses tend to have more sugar, so those areas that have been grazed down and are trying to grow up might be sweeter. I certainly see the same effect here in Ocala.
And agree that once the grass reaches a certain height horses avoid it.

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Going a bit off topic here but I’d be very curious to learn more about what your management is for this as my situation is similar.

Last summer I had 3 cows that I’d graze through before the horses, then I’d strip graze the horses. This meant they couldn’t be quite so picky and they didn’t get hugely fat, but I also don’t think it’s good for pasture health long term.

I sold the cows in winter so don’t have that option and I’m thinking grazing muzzles may be worth a try

Mow often at the highest height if your pasture is growing and lush …drag roughs because horses do not eat where they shit. And when things get sparse …rotate. It is SO Dependent on your rate of growth pasture size and stocking rate. Plus just because your pasture is green doesn’t mean it’s edible.it might be full of lovely green weeds

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It’s definitely a pain, especially with an old timer with Cushings.

Right now I’m introducing a new horse, which makes things extra, EXTRA complicated, but when I had two going out together plus the pony, I had it down to a science.

I keep several smallish pastures in top notch shape, mowing to 4" and regrowing to 8". These are for eating only, and the horses graze them for a few hours in the morning - the exact number of hours depending on season and body condition. I rotate as needed, but they never really get trashed because they’re used so little.

The rest of the time the big guys are in a 5 acre sacrifice pasture that’s mowed regularly, but isn’t reseeded or anything fancy like that. They actually have to work for grass on that one, and even require hay. (This seems crazy wasteful, I’m sure, but it’s been the best solution I’ve come up with since the old guy was diagnosed.)

If anybody gets really fat I also have a dry paddock with virtually no grass at all. The pony is either in there or muzzled - no exceptions, poor baby.

This works for me because I’m a teacher with a flexible schedule, and can be home to do all this moving around. If I had a real job like a normal person, I’m not sure what I’d do.

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I really did some examination when I was mowing over the weekend - I’m roughly estimating that I’m mowing to 4"+ and the area I was mowing was no higher than 8-10". These are rough guesses but generally speaking, the areas not freshly mowed are maybe to ankle height for the horses, we are not talking to their knees :laughing:

We’re supposed to get a fair amount of rain this week so I’m hoping that helps everything bounce back.

@goodhors - I’m curious how big your pastures are and how many horses are on them that you are rotating so frequently? With 3 pastures, if I rotated every 3 days, it would only give 6 days off to any one of them and I don’t know if that’s enough time for regrowth in my climate/soil.

Pastures, paddocks are small. 2 larger ones of about 3 acres, 2 smaller ones of about an acre and 3/4, two of about half an acre, plus 2 “barnyards” of a quarter acre each. Barnyards are pretty bare most of the year, with horses in them daily as access to the other pasture areas.

I am in Michigan where we usually have decent rain to keep things growing, though it has been droughty since winter ended.

The 9 horses we presently have are ususually divided 4 and 5 in the pasture. Or 3 and 5 if one goes out for training. I do put 2 on the acre paddocks now and again. This keeps them trimmed down. We get 2 days grazing there, then grass is gone. After mowing to cut weeds it rests until grass is back up about 6 inches. Reduces pressure on the other fields a bit.

Grass and other plants grow daily, though maybe just a small amount. Rotating so often gives each field that bit of growth time to “apparently” recover enough that things stay productive, keep their roots busy growing leaves. Just saying the horses here are well rounded on just grass.

They are easy keepers, though not small. Everyone is 16 to 17H, big bodied, good big bone. They get minimal grain, a literal handful if not in work. Add in some wet beet pulp with vitamins and Selenium once a day while stalled. Any more and they could easily be obese!

I took a Master Gardener class a while ago. One of their classes was on growing grass, mostly lawns. However by asking specific questions, staying late to talk to the speaker, I got more pasture information and tips. He was part of MSU’s team studying rotational grazing for dairy cattle, so was very informative about keeping pastures productive. The Dairy system was experimenting with a new grazing paddock opened daily. Cows took it right down on their turnout time, got a new paddock the next day. They were measuring grass regrowth, to see if they did better with 15 paddocks or 30, to keep the cows fed. He was the one who said “Mow high, mow often”, which has been very beneficial for us. He explained about the plants not getting “shocked” with lots of leaf removal at one time. Losing so much leaf prevents roots getting fed. Takes time for plant to recover, swing back into growth and production. So plants in shock are more vulnerable to being overgrazed, dying more easily. We want good roots under the plants to help grow leaves, survive drought times, resist erosion in heavy rain times.

Adding organic matter helps the fields. Horse manure is not the greatest fertilizer, especially compared to cattle and sheep manure. I spread our stall cleanings on the pastures daily. Sawdust bedding acts as a mulch. Covers dirt between plants, protects dirt from hot sun to prevent drying, holds in moisture, slows rain runoff that can cause erosion. The micro organisms in soil pull the sawdust down into the soil, making it “lighter” soil that absorbs water more easily. Soil uses nitrogen to break down the sawdust, so I am always adding nitrogen in my fertilizer applications, with appropriate lime to aid plants to use the nitrogen. Nitrogen never actually “leaves” the soil as some folks believe, but some is busy breaking down the sawdust, not available to the plants.

The sawdust bedding is dragged after spreading, manure piles get broken, spread thinly over the fields. I use a chain harrow for that.

This system works here. Of course I wish I had a bit more acreage, but we have to work with what we have. Pastures have improved a great deal with these methods. No bald spots, though grass is often short on their favorite spots. No one here has health issues, so sugar in grass is not a concern. They are out at nights, when things are cooler, less bugs, so less sugar.

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Thanks for the detailed response!

Interesting - am I understanding correctly that you spread manure from cleaning stalls year round? I’m always worried about burning out the grass doing that but what you’re describing seemsto have the opposite effect. Maybe I should experiment with that a bit. We spread from early November until about May - typically very limited bedding in the spreader. In the summer I just pick and toss from the roughs. Although the way my shoulder is feeling today I think I need to rig the ATV to a drag instead.

Yes, bedding gets spread daily, year around. Exposed to sun breaks poop down faster, sawdust dries almost instantly when spread thinly. No burning effect I have ever seen. Dragging spreads bedding even thinner, not covering the plants to kill them.

I do not want to give any space to a manure pile, attract insects with it. Our soil is clay, so it needs volumes of organic matter to be good “dirt”. These days soil is softer with the organic matter mixed in, more open to absorb rainfall, not the rock hard of clay only. Plant roots can easily spread, go deep into the ground. And like any sort of mulch, sawdust breaks down over time. This means the land needs constant additions of more organic matter to keep up the good effects. I don’t get the entire pasturage covered in a year, so it is not a problem. I have not found straw bedding to be as beneficial as the sawdust. The stalks dry up, blow away, not adding anything to the soil. The cut grass falling down onto the dirt is a bonus, both adding to the mulch effect and returning nutrients in it, to the soil. Like free fertilizer! I don’t compost because I need the volume I get with just the bedding. Better on the land than letting it burn itself up to nothing in a compost pile for my soil.

Be nice to yourself, buy a drag! Save your shoulders for riding!!

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This year I have also started spreading what I pick directly to avoid a manure pile. I think it’s working well, but time will tell. I think I’ll have to pile it over the winter (we get lots of snow), but I can spread that pile the following summer. I have 4 horses and a mini on 6 acres. I have a perimeter track that leads to three separate grazing areas that they rotate through. For the last 10 years the pasture has been cut only once a year so it is weedy and sparse. However I just bought an ATV with a mower so I’m looking forward to rehabilitating the pasture to get more grass. For the first few years, I regularly picked the pastures but a few years ago I switched to dragging weekly and that works really well and is way less work.