I’d really love to hear how you do this yourself, and if you’ve put much thought into it. Or do you simply make the switch from bitted to hack and let the fates take care of the rest?
I found this interesting article while googling this topic.
http://www.equinechronicle.com/under…the-hackamore/
I start and restart them in a rope halter, so they are already hackamore broke. If you start them right, then it’s nothing to switch.
I should change my post to be more clear… What I meant to ask was switching to hackamore (or bit-less) from a snaffle.
This is my own horse, and though I’m pretty much a jack of all trades, about basic training, I’ve never personally tried to switch one over. Currently, he rides well in a French link; have tried several others. I just think he’s been telling me and other riders for years that he doesn’t want us to touch his mouth… it’s time I listened to him.
He’ll take the bit, accept half halts, later cues, etc., but this horse really prefers you ride him off your seat and legs 90% of the time. If you do accidentally bonk him in the mouth, whether through reflex from a spook or simple accident, he’s obviously not happy…
Bluey., I appreciate the time you took for that response… and any more advice you can offer. Thanks again.
I switched from French link to bit less. I just removed the bit, wrapped foam padding around the nose band, and moved the reins to attach to the bridal. The foam was to make the nose band softer, also I think my English bridles nose band was lower than a hackamore would be, on his nose, so padding made up for that. My horse was already hard mouthed, bits didn’t mean more control. With my arrangement though, I don’t think he got as much communication as a hackamore or side pull. I used leg AIDS more than reins for turns etc.
Short answer: I let fates take the reins. But I started in the arena, a controlled area.
Better to have someone show you how to handle a hackamore, but if you don’t have anyone, remember this, they are not a side pull to guide their nose, they are a way to barely move your hand and the horse listeing then to all other cues you are giving, from the ground or riding.
You may say hackamores are a way to say, “horse, pay attention, please” and the horse then listening and trying to figure what you want.
We started that process on the ground, the slightest weight on a rein and the horse would move and give with it’s head and follow with picking it’s body up and be ready to move it’s hind feet any one way you asked.
It is not about bending the head around for flexibility by itself, is a total control of the whole body preparing to collect to move.
In general, hackamore horses used to be kind of stiff because of that, only working the whole body as one, when the later trainers started separating horse parts to work independent of each other, then putting the horse back together to do the task at hand.
Today hackamore work includes both, which makes hackamore work itself even more finely tuned by necessity.
I think if you want to try your horse without a bit, are you sure you want to use a bosal type hackamore, or some other more like a side pull?
I will use a Lindell side pull and add a bit to it using spur straps. With a rein on each you can transition your horse to working in the side pull. If you need more leverage later, you can switch to something with a shank.
As kids we pretty much just went with it-- not a hackamore specifically, but put rope reins on a halter. I don’t remember it ever being a huge issue but you could certainly start in a ring/ roundpen if you’re worried. I’ve always started young horses in a halter with reins under a snaffle bridle with no caveson so that they learn at first to steer from nose pressure and then accept a combo of nose/ bit before finally going in a bit alone. So you could always do this in reverse.
Do you mean like a side pull? I figure if a horse is broke to lead off pressure (halt and turn off rope pressure alone…not following your feet), then they already know to go in a side pull. I just put one on, and start in hand making sure they know to stop/turn, and then get on and give it a try.
You know, this is what has been in the back of my head for ever. It’s just stupid age and the acute awareness that I no longer bounce that has me second guessing and ‘what if’-ing the whole situation.
Honestly, I think this horse will be an easy switch since he already wants you to never touch his mouth. You turn him by pointing a hip, halt by sitting deeply, and increase or decrease pace by where you put your weight.
I think I’ll speak with the exercise rider and see how she feels about it.
Anyone have any more information or advice that’d be great, thanks.
Catering to the horse is not an effective training method. He has a huge gaping hole in his foundation if he is not broke in the face. He has been training people his whole life.
With certain horses I wouldn’t call it catering to. I’d call it a partnership with.
I tried it recently on my Arab I bought a year ago, he was confused and suddenly lost his whoa. Needless to say I went back to a snaffle and rethinking a better way to introduce bit-less rather then just going for it. Maybe try it on long lines first?
Indeed.
The bit, like any other piece of equestrian gear, is a tool. In this case, its the “communication device” that transmits the message of the hands to the mouth so the nose can be pointed in an appropriate fashion. The rest of the horse follows the nose. Properly used, it permits clear and concise direction. Improperly used, it can be torture device that can drive a horse into dangerously evasive behaviors. Conversely, an ineffective bit can lead to the rider having the false belief that they have communication with they really don’t; that, too, can permit dangerous equine behavior. But these last states are the fault of the rider who makes poor equipment choices.
In no way, shape, or form does “clear communication” negatively impact the “partnership” between horse and rider. Quite the contrary, it ensures that such communication is two way, as the horse can communicate BACK to the rider’s hands by how they react to message being sent. Put another way, this communication is a two way street and the clearer the messages in both directions the better will be the performance across the board.*
There is a place in the training world for the various classes of bit-less devices. At various times over the years I’ve used a bosal, hackemore, side pull, and halter with two lead ropes. Young horses, older horses needing a “restart,” horses with mouth pathology, etc. often benefit from time without a bit.
The First Principle in riding with a bit is that you understand that the true power of the bit is in the hands of the rider. I’ve used bits ranging from very mild snaffles to the M1909 Cavalry Bit in a double bridle. Had some experience early on in my Walker years with the Walker curb bit with 9" shanks. I’ve had one experience on a horse with a Shoemaker bit. My take on all this is that the bit when properly used is like having a two way conversation with your horse using a high quality, digital radio or phone. The bit-less devices all pretty much function like two tin cans connected by a string.
And I’ve also learned that when you ride with your whole body, and not just one part of it, things go better, too!!! 
Ride with what you want but understand how what you want works and what it gives and what it doesn’t give and what it might even take away.
G.
*Note that the “two way” part of all this mostly with folks who ride in contact. If you’re on a “draped” rein there’s not much the horse can do to send a message through the rein short of vigorous head shaking.
Just consider, when you are checking pasture on an old stiff, bouncy pickup, desiring to be driving the finest Ferrari with special track tires slipping and sliding and highcentering on cowchips would be wishing for the wrong tool for the task at hand.
With every horse it’s a partnership. Catering does not equal partnership.
Deleted:)
I just put it on and check the brakes and then head out on trail. If they know how to be led in halter and are well behaved under saddle, they are probably going to be fine.
I’d hardly call using something that your horse may be more comfortable in “catering” to your horse. My mare is clearly happier in an S hack and responds just as well to it as to a bit. How do I know she’s more comfortable? Well she eats and drinks better and her HR drops faster at vet checks when she’s ridden in the hack. It’s no more catering to her than making sure her saddle fits her properly so that she can best do her job. (PS yes she has regular dental and vet attention before anyone jumps off that bridge)
@tabula rashah - not exactly a “comfort” issue. Horse won’t let anyone touch his mouth. That’s a training issue, and put together with the “bonk” comment, it’s human error contributing to the lack of training.
By submitting your email, you agree to our Terms of Service and Privacy Policy. You may also receive promotional emails from The Chronicle of the Horse. You can opt out at any time.
For Customers
Company
Terms of Use
