Talk to Me Like I'm 5... First Truck and Trailer

[coffeehag]

Hi horse friends! I can feel in my bones that I’m getting close to needing to buy a truck and trailer sitch or a horse van in the next year or two here and frankly have NO idea where to start.

While my pipe dream is a horse van, it’s far easier to obtain a truck and trailer. The problem is I have no idea where to start or what I’d even really be looking for. When I’m able to buy, my father will be able to help but I’d like to educate myself first.

What’s helpful for y’all to know:

• I’ll most likely only ever be hauling 1-2 horses at a time. I only own one and until I get my sister to bite the bullet that’s all I’ve got. But mine is 16.hh
• I don’t live in horse country, which means I’d like to be able to haul a couple hours at a time and not worry about the wheels falling off
• I can drive stick!
• I’d like to be able to find something that doesn’t cost a kidney, so used is good – and I can “use” my dad to replace parts provided it doesn’t require underwater basket weaving
• I don’t see myself driving a lot in the winter but definitely in the summer and winter in the midwest/east coast

Mostly my question is… when shopping for a first truck, what should I really be looking for? What in a sales listing is a green or red flag?

[Virginia_Horse_Mom]

Will you be driving on highways and going 65 or over? Will you be driving in areas that have hills?

I have a 2 horse gooseneck. I personally vastly prefer it to a tagalong. Much more stable ride, and the gooseneck is nice for storage. But… when fully loaded with two thousand pound horses, and driving on the highway and dealing with slight inclines… I have found that a diesel 2500 / diesel 250 is necessary power wise.

You don’t necessarily need as much truck if your trailer is slightly smaller, and you aren’t doing hills/mountains/high speed highway driving.

I personally vote for Chevrolet/GMC when it comes to trucks. I’ve had a Dodge diesel in the past though, and it was a great truck. Just crappy interior. But the engine was solid.

Sadly, Ford is not what it used to be, IMO. I know more than one person who has had significant problems with their Ford truck.

I too loved used vehicles. But… it’s hard to find good used diesel trucks. People hold onto them. And new does cost a kidney. Ugggh.

[Texarkana]

Horse vans are great and all, but they have some serious logistical challenges. Insurance companies often don’t know how to handle them. You usually have to go back to a “dealer” for any major services or repairs, and let me tell you how few dealers there are. If your van is large enough, it may require a CDL. They can be tricky to resell when you reach that point.

It’s a lot easier at the entry level to acquire a truck and trailer in the US. Plus, can I tell you how many umpteen million times I use my truck and trailer for non-horse chores and activities? I’ve used it to move 4 times; that alone has saved me a ton of $$$.

I know people say “don’t trust the manufacturer’s towing capacity,” but it’s a really good jumping off point. For example, something like a 2024 1/2 ton Ram can vary between 6,000 to 12,000+ lb depending on the transmission, engine, axle ratio, wheelbase, etc. So get the full specs of anything you are interested in purchasing and look up what it’s rated for; don’t trust the dealer or seller to accurately convey the info. The manufacturers put out pdfs with this info.

Also, something I embarrassingly didn’t know until I was an adult despite towing my whole life is that hitches, balls, bars, etc. all have weight ratings. Even if your truck can tow 12,000lbs, if you have a class II hitch installed on there that’s only rated for 3,500lbs, you are limited.

There’s a rule of thumb (that’s often debated) that you should only “use” about 80% of your lowest tow weight rating in your setup. So don’t push it to the max; if you see something like a light duty SUV that in theory could tow the weight of one horse in a modest trailer, it’s best not to push it. Just because you could doesn’t mean you should. I’m not one of those people who will preach “bigger is better,” but if you think you might tow 2 horses, get something that can tow the weight of 2 horses + trailer without maxing out the rating.

[Virginia_Horse_Mom]

@Texarkana

Just because you could doesn’t mean yoh should. I’m not one of those people who will preach “bigger is better,” but if you think you might tow 2 horses, get something that can tow the weight of 2 horses + trailer without maxing out the rating.

This.

[coffeehag]

@Virginia_Horse_Mom

Will you be driving on highways and going 65 or over? Will you be driving in areas that have hills?

Yes… and no. I think for my first truck/trailer situation I’d be okay with something that’s for local miles only. It’d be in the midwest where there’s hill but I wouldn’t say it’s hilly, if that makes sense. I mostly want something that can be used to haul myself to and from hunting but, for bigger events, like a competition, I’d most likely be going with my barn and a bigger group and wouldn’t need to haul myself.

I mean honestly, for a First Truck, I’d love something that’s used but in solid condition that I can pretty much drive into the ground.

[Alterwho]

@Virginia_Horse_Mom

But… it’s hard to find good used diesel trucks. People hold onto them. And new does cost a kidney. Ugggh.

We recently (6months ago) sold our 2017 F250 diesel. We bought it new, owned it for 7 years and sold it for more than we paid for it

[Texarkana]

@coffeehag

I mean honestly, for a First Truck, I’d love something that’s used but in solid condition that I can pretty much drive into the ground.

Price of trucks these days is INSANE.

But, pre-covid when I bought my Ram 1500, I got a lightly used, pretty bare bones work model that was traded in by a landscaping business that went under. It’s been my daily driver, because $$$ (which I don’t have). It has enough creature comforts that I’m not going without in terms of a daily driver. But it’s standard cab, no 4x4, nothing fancy. Sure, I’d love all the bells and whistles, but it drives and tows well, which is all that matters at the end of the day.

I could probably sell it for nearly as much as I paid for it these days.

[NancyM]

I’ll say here what I always do when this subject comes up… Go with a used, older Dodge diesel truck… 3/4 ton. Pre “DEF”. These engines can NOT be beat. They are the most dependable and easy to work on thing available. I have a one ton flat deck that I bought new in 1997 with 250,000 km on it. I love it. We just bought another oldie, to replace my husband’s Dodge 3/4 ton, which finally died (it was a 1993- the engine was still in excellent condition, but other issues made it undrivable, and unfixable). We found a 2003 with half a million km on it, some exterior rust, purrs like a kitten. TON of power, very comfortable and nice to drive. Paid $7000 (canadian funds). Put new tires, and some basic repairs onto it. Got about $10,000 invested into it now. It takes round bales up the highway, uphill, at 1500 rpm… super easy. These engines will go 1,000,000 km, if looked after moderately. TON of power. Dependable. Economical. Very comfortable. More powerful than my 97 one ton.

You will have to look HARD to find one, these older Dodge diesels have a HUGE following… it took us over 6 months to find the most recent one. It was a private sale, found it on facebook. The previous owner was an older lady, retired commercial truck driver. My DH has also been a commercial truck driver (semis). Truckers choose this truck.

As for trailers, I prefer a gooseneck. I have one now, a two horse which I wanted instead of the 6 horse I’ve had for the last decade or so. I like it because all the partition and chest bars come out, and it turns into a box stall, which I like. They may cost you more than a bumper pull will, but if you can swing it, the horses tend to ride better in a gooseneck IMO. If you can’t get one, find a decent bumper pull.

[LCDR]

Talk to other folks who have trucks and trailers. Don’t be afraid to walk up to a stranger at a horse show - particularly the horse show dad who is sitting around waiting next to an empty two horse bumper pull trailer. You will learn a lot, especially since you will be both listening and looking and having your questions answered in real time.

[luvmyhackney]

So I’m shopping for truck and trailer. This is what I’m looking for:

Truck - Diesel, must have gooseneck hitch, prefer 3500 w/ dual wheels (totally overkill in flat areas, but I live and will be driving over the mountains), I only buy the last year a model was manufactured. I won’t buy a newer Ram cause my mechanic won’t work on it. Find a good mechanic and see what they like to work on.

Trailer - gooseneck with a side ramp, but convert into two box stalls.

I’ve driven a friends truck with the dual wheels and without the dual wheels, same trailer. It’s feels stable and secure with both, but the dual wheels were much steadier and easier to stop when we had high winds on the mountain.

[endlessclimb]

They’re also WAY worse in snow and rain because they float more.

Just know the trade off.

[endlessclimb]

OP, I’d be looking for a half ton with a decent tow rating/set up. You absolutely do not need a diesel, and pre-DEF in the midwest is liable to have some serious rust issues (it’s a 20+ year old truck to be pre-DEF). Diesel costs more, and diesels cost more to maintain.

If you’re going to be hauling big horses get a straight load. 16h or less can fit in a slant.

[deweydee]

Also, with a diesel, you’re eating away at your payload significantly.

We started with an older, but well kept truck that was pre emissions diesel/manual because it fit our needs and my husband could service any issues we had bc of the era. I’d go that route again, but it depends on your budget and tolerance for mechanical work. Regular service, well maintained, what were they doing with it daily, etc go a long way for the health of older trucks.

Usually the older slants are more narrow than the modern ones. Good points from @endlessclimb.

[luvmyhackney]

Unfortunately there is a good section on 7% grade highway I have to go on to get to my trainers and it scares the ever living daylights out of me. Why I conditioned my choice.

Otherwise, I agree with everything you wrote.

[fivestrideline]

@endlessclimb

OP, I’d be looking for a half ton with a decent tow rating/set up. You absolutely do not need a diesel, and pre-DEF in the midwest is liable to have some serious rust issues (it’s a 20+ year old truck to be pre-DEF). Diesel costs more, and diesels cost more to maintain.

If you’re going to be hauling big horses get a straight load. 16h or less can fit in a slant.

This. Absolutely.

If you’re looking locally for a used truck, rust is going to be a huge issue you need to look out for. Better to buy something newer locally (and still have it inspected) or travel south to buy used if you can. BTDT.

You don’t need diesel at all and definitely don’t need a dually (they are not fun to drive in winter or spring crappy weather roads, and parking on grass is a gamble if it’s wet). Better a 4WD single rear wheel, IME. A 250 or 2500 wouldn’t be a bad idea just to keep your options open - they’re not much more expensive than their smaller counterparts unless you go all out. You CAN get a 1500/150 to do what you need, but the math doesn’t always math .

I’m team gooseneck or euro trailer. A 2+1 or rear facing because I prefer to walk horses off forward and down a ramp. Having the option to make a box stall is a bonus, though some people accomplish this with a giant slant (no rear tack or center post). From there, it’s about ventilation, safety, and ease of use. Unfortunately, you often don’t know all the little things you’d want until you’ve owned a few different trailers

[poltroon]

@coffeehag

Yes… and no. I think for my first truck/trailer situation I’d be okay with something that’s for local miles only. It’d be in the midwest where there’s hill but I wouldn’t say it’s hilly, if that makes sense. I mostly want something that can be used to haul myself to and from hunting but, for bigger events, like a competition, I’d most likely be going with my barn and a bigger group and wouldn’t need to haul myself.

I mean honestly, for a First Truck, I’d love something that’s used but in solid condition that I can pretty much drive into the ground.

Depending on exactly where you are, “local hauling” isn’t necessarily easiier on the truck. For me the most dangerous miles are pulling out of the driveway, dealing with sloped on and off ramps, and traffic lights. Serious mountain passes are also of concern (whether interstate or secondary highways) but they’re not the only times you’ll be very aware of the truck’s capabilities.

You probably don’t want to drive it into the ground per se because you don’t want to be stranded with your horse. That said, get US Rider, take care of it, make sure you’re always aware of your tires. Your trailer tires’ life will probably be measured in years rather than miles.

It’s great to be able to haul yourself and all your stuff.

Make sure that the hitch, whether gooseneck or bumper pull, is rated for the load, as well as the truck. The factory hitches usually need to be upgraded to a weight distributing hitch.

Definitely a truck and trailer is a more versatile combination than a horse van.

Trailers come in different widths, lengths, and heights. If you have a small horse, any might be fine, but if you have large horses, you will want to be paying attention.

I like a trailer where you can remove the dividers and have an open box, and where the divider can swing out of the way to make the situation more inviting. Pay attention to how all the fasteners work, and how safe it is to open and close them if you have a tense, nervous horse getting on or off.

See if you can get someone to teach you to hitch up and drive one before you shop, so you get a chance to learn the basics before it’s all you.

[2DogsFarm]

@coffeehag

that I can pretty much drive into the ground.

Why?
My goal has always been to make my tow vehicle last as long as possible. Especially if budget is an issue.
Maintaining an older truck will give you that much more life from it.
And, as others have said, newer models may be missing features/capability older ones had.
ALWAYS get the factory tow package.
This means transmission & oil coolers & integral frame & wiring for hauling.

That said, the only truck I had was an older (10yo when I got it) F250 V10. It was owned by the wife of a long haul trucker who owned his semi-tractor, so truck had been garage-kept. Which makes a difference.
Truck didn’t fit in my garage & keeping it parked on grass eventually rusted the brake lines.
Even the gravel pad I have now wouldn’t prevent that.
That was my version of “drive into the ground” & it was costly to repair.

Zipping up my flamesuit…
Aside from that truck, I’ve towed since 1996 with SUVs.
First a Chevy Blazer & aluminium 2H Straightload BP.
No tow package & I’m certain that contributed to
brakes wearing out twice.
Next a 2002 Ford Explorer (brand new) w/tow package & same trailer for 7yrs.
Hauling mostly 1 1K# horse, but, on occasion, 2.
After the Explorer came the truck & aluminum GN 2H Slant w/full 6’ short wall LQ.
Traded for aluminum GN 2H Slant w/DR & sold the truck, got a 2007 Chevy Trailblazer (in 2015).
After years crawling in & out of the truck bed to hitch, traded GN for an aluminum 16’ Stock w/center gate.
Trailblazer was traded in for a 2016 Explorer 2yrs ago.
For me a stock trailer is perfect. I drive as well as ride & carts go in front of the gate, driving mini in back. In a pinch, I can haul my 3: 16h horse, 13h pony & 34" mini.
Trailer can also haul hay - 100+ 50# squares - and bagged shavings < 90+ 60# bags.
If I ever get another trailer, it will be a Stock.
Last thing I prefer is Stepup over Ramp.
Damn ramps weigh a ton, even with hydraulics & keeping that ramp attachment clean is a PITA.

[LCDR]

OP, you refer to using your Dad in this first truck search, acquisition, and maintenance endeavor. If he’s doing maintenance for you, he must have some mechanical experience and skills. Care to share what Dad’s advice has been?

What is your budget? And remember that besides down payment, monthly vehicle payments, fuel costs, and regular maintenance, there are also insurance costs and yearly tag and property tax costs.

Is the truck to be your daily driver and only vehicle? Do you want space for several passengers? What’s your parking situation at school or at work?

[kaya842]

First and biggest thing - both trucks and trailers are hugely individual choices. Very few posters here have the same complete set of circumstances (geographic location, weather, travel similar distances, have horses of similar sizes, bring the same amount of tack, and most importantly have the same comfort level/ risk tolerance).

For me, any vehicle in the Midwest (my Midwest is MO/ IL) must have 4WD/ AWD. I don’t mess with 2WD as we get too much snow and drive in wet fields regularly. My preference was for NO diesel due to increased purchase and maintenance costs (and the likelihood that the truck would sit for periods which is especially bad for diesels). Then I looked at towing capacity. I knew I wanted over 10,000lbs, and ideally as high as possible, so that if/ when I buy a new trailer I don’t “outgrow” the truck and have to buy a new one. This led me to a 2018 F150 with a specific engine, gear ratio, and towing package.

I’ve bought 4? Trucks in my time and prior to this one bought used trucks for much, much cheaper. Each of the 3 used cheap trucks died terrible deaths after a short period of usability (typically with some repairs prior which cost $$$ and led me to doubt the trucks ability/ gave me anxiety hauling). I decided this time to spend more money and get a truck I believed to be entirely reliable and over qualified for the job (and buy the extended warranty on top so I could relax about expensive repairs). It has made a world of difference in my stress levels towing.

For a trailer, I only ever recommend straight loads. My personal experience with slants is that they are never long/ big enough for HJ horses and it puts repetitive stress on one side of their body which I don’t like. Reverse straight load is my ideal, and I’m working on getting one. You will want a tall trailer 7’6+. My first trailer I bought one that was too short (I’ve had 5 trailers). Pay attention to ventilation. You also want to have whichever trailer you buy thoroughly inspected. I bought several “fixer upper” trailers and the damage/ needed repairs far exceeded what I originally thought. One trailer ended up being condemned for scrap material entirely. Buying something newer has again reduced my stress greatly.

[coffeehag]

@2DogsFarm

My goal has always been to make my tow vehicle last as long as possible. Especially if budget is an issue

Sorry if I wasn’t clear. “Driving it into the ground” means maintaining it until it no longer can be used – prolonging the life as long as possible, ideally.