In TN even if you plant non-endophyte fescue, it will creep back in. Orchard grass, unless you reseed, will thin out after 2-3 years. Timothy is the same. Around here for cool-season grasses, fescue is the one most used because it can stand up to grazing better. It goes dormant in the warmer months from June through September and again in the cold part of winter (late Dec through Feb). If you don’t keep them from grazing the cool season grasses down below 3 inches, you will have thinning and weeds creeping in. Prolonged periods of no precipitation will also mess up your pastures. Last year’s drought killed off most of my cool-season grasses. You could talk to the folks at your local extension service or at UT to find out what they think about the turfgrass varieties of fescue and pastures.
https://extension.tennessee.edu/publ…nts/PB1651.pdf
I have 4 horses and about 12 acres fenced, divided into 4 pastures… Because of the wet winters and muddy pastures at my place, I usually end up giving my horses hay for most of the late fall to early spring months and keep them off most of the pasture. Otherwise, they will tear it up. That means, the cool season grasses at my place are only really grazable for a few months unless I want to do more maintenance. I have been changing two of the pastures over to more warm-season grasses. So far, those are the ones that seem to require the least amount of babying. I love my crabgrass. I have to reseed the cool season pastures again this year. Drilling the seed results in so much better germination then broadcast, as does timing and light rain. You also have to keep the horses off the pasture for months so the grass can establish.
ETA, your local farmer’s co-op will have several different varieties of tall fescue seed, other than Ky-31, that are for forage. They can also order if they don’t have any in stock. They may be able to tell you their experiences with the different varieties also.