I’ve often come across people who tell me their horse “can’t canter”. In truth though the vast majority can indeed canter but their rider isn’t actually asking them for a canter. Most often the rider is rocking to and fro as if on a rocking horse and with a stiff waist. This upsets the horse’s balance and makes him clumsy or else stay in or fall back to an ungainly trot. That coupled with heavy unyielding hands normally holds the horse back in trot. The hand full of others have been lame and in genuine pain and as such don’t want to.
A canter is an easy pace for a horse partly because the 3 time rythm seems better suited to the rythm of his breathing than does the rythm of the trot. In the wild the horse tends to use walk or canter much more freely and readily than the trot. Where working horses cover long distance e.g. herding cattle and sheep etc, it’s mostly done at canter. It might well be because it’s more comfortable for the rider but for sure the fact that the horse goes freely and well at canter has played a part. Likewise from choice a horse will go into canter up hills. It’s just easier for them.
I prefer to get horses started in canter on long lines and then under saddle. For a young unbalanced horse that is likely to throw in a sort of buck whilst it sorts its legs out, if you ask it as it’s going up a hill and get your weight forward you’ll help it. (Of course that is dependent on where you live - if you’re in Norfolk you have no chance! No hills!!)
If your rein handling isn’t good, light and quick enough then don’t even attempt it under long lines. Instead go to a single lunge line.
Once the horse has learned to go forward at the trot with regularity and good stride and no loss of rythm and is well settled, then you’re ready to move to canter. Only then.
A horse on the lunge will nearly always go freely into a canter but, like the walk, the pace can lose sequence easily and so should only be introduced when there’s balance and impulsion so the horse can travel freely forward in a 3 time working canter and still remain on the track of the circle. For this, it’s necessary for the quarters to be slightly lowered so that the hind legs can be brought sufficiently under the weight of the body for the forehad to be lightened and raised.
As in the trot the inside hind leg should come forward and slightly under the body and in line with the circle. This helps to transfer the horse’s weight towards the outside shoulder and gives more freedom to the leading inside leg. Again the horse will use his head and neck to balance and turn slightly away and inwards towards the leading leg, thus producing a slight muscular bend throughout the whole length which helps him to negotiate the circle despite th elack of lateral flexion in his spine. In bending his head and neck to the inside of the circle he’ll make contact with the outer side rein (if you’re using them) and accustom himself to the passive, outside rein which plays a part in ridden canter work.
I personally prefer to work without side reins to eliminate any possibility of the horse drawing back or falling into a trot.
To ask under saddle from trot: (because I didn’t understand your description at all. But after all riding is a practical skill and I don’t normally do this either. I normally say “go for some lessons”. So you’ve indulged me in something I never do
)
You need a stronger thrust to launch the weight of the horse’s body into the longer lasting unsupported phase. To prepare the horse sinks a little further onto the diagnonal that is to be the main support in the canter. At the same time he brings down the opposite foreleg earlier than he would for a trot. This makes 3 legs available for the upward throw. And he can reach forward with the other hindleg and delay putting it down till he is ready to land on it after the unsupported phase of the first canter stride.
So relaxed trot first - that makes it easier and more natural for the horse when he wants to cover the ground.
Make up your mind which lead you’re going to ask him on. Each lead calls for a different set of aids.
To remove any ambiguity when you first ask, initiate the canter on a circle whilst the horse is turning. He’ll lead naturally with the inside leg on the circle, so right foreleg when turning right and left foreleg when turning left.
So suppose you’re starting with a circle right at sitting trot. Not too large - 10 or 20 metres. Get the horse trotting forward freely and regular rythm. When you first turn into the circle, your left leg will be a little behind the girth, but when the turn is well established your leg may return to the girth. The hors’s head is turned a little to the right so you can just see the corner of his eye. Your hands are in direct rein position, the left having given a little more than the right.
Practice changing the speed over the ground, alternately driving forward with your seat for a few strides and then surreptitiously shortening the rein for a few strides whilst you increase the pressure on the bit. make sure you can produce noticeable changes in speed over the ground. Now start to build up impulsion by keeping up the reain pressure instead of at once giving with the rein when you start to drive forward with your seat. The horse needs to be “wound up” between the drive of your seat and the restraint of your hands. The aim is to reach a stage where he’ll surge forward as soon as you relax the pressure on the rein.
Only then are you ready to ask for canter. Pay attention to the horse’s shoulders so you’re clear which diagonal is being used for support. Remember it’s the outside that forms the principal support. For a canter on right lead, the outside consists of the left foreleg and the right hindleg. At point of transition from trot you want the horse to reach forward with his left hindleg. So apply your left leg behind the girth. - Your timing has to be right.
Build up alertness and impulsion, give a warning and at the moment of decision apply simutaneously the aids with seat, legs, weight change AND reins. The warning is drawing your outside leg back but with no pressure to the horse’s side. The just draws his attention to his outside hindleg. The moment of decision for a canter on right lead occurs just as the horse is about to land on the outside diagnonal. That’s why you have to make your mind up and get it right on time. Then just as you are coming down fo rthe bump on the outside diagnonal, you brace your back to thrust your seat bones forward against the saddle and squeeze with both legs at the same time and ease the pressure on the rein. Square your shoulders. Do not attempt to urge the horse forward by leaning forward.
If you can’t do that then away you go for lessons. :winkgrin: