Temp Controlled Room in Pole Barn

Hi everyone -

I work remotely for a bank in technology but because of my rural location, I was lucky to find a back office in a local branch from which to work the last several years. Unfortunately, that branch is being closed in June and now I either need to construct a place to work from home (I’m lucky enough to have good internet but have young kids in the house all day and I can’t work there) or make a longer commute into a nearby larger town.

I have an uninsulated pole barn for hay, tractor and horses. I’m thinking of finishing a small space in there serving dual purpose as my office and warm storage for some small things in the barn. I’m not a craftsman by trade but I’m fairly handy so I can pour a slab, build a 12x12 box, insulate it, finish it with metal on the outside/paneling on the inside and wire it up for baseboard heating and a wall AC unit.

My concern is I have no idea if that’s a recipe for condensation/humidity…the barn itself is relatively new and still tends to condensate a bit with large temp changes, though less all the time as the fill is drying out. Obviously that cannot happen in this room with computer equipment in there. Any suggestions/words of caution or is my plan sound?

Thank you!

Check mini-split heat pumps, made for small spaces.

It will be pricey, but for what you want, maybe worth it?

Also, consider those portable office buildings they sell and rent, that come already wired for heat and cooling, even some with bathrooms.

You can move one in there.

An insulated space will not form condensation. Condensation occurs when air warmed by bodies inside a building or a heater meets the cooler walls of an un insulated building. By keeping the cold walls from coming into contact with warmer air inside the building condensation will stop. You can insulate and even add a barrier of air between the outside of the building and the inside walls.

Example, double walled tumblers prevent drinks from sweating in the summer.

2 Likes

EJR, I know what you’re saying is true but if I look at my house, there is an attic with soffits and vents allowing air circulation.

So, is all of that there to simply handle the air space created by the sloped roof and I can literally get away with building an insulated cube? Or do I have to mimic that air circulation in this project? (See, not a tradesman…haha!)

thanks for the tip bluey!

If you vapor barrier and insulate the ceiling, you can have a half-gable vaulted ceiling if you want. Or, build a flat ceiling below the half-gable to create a cube.

Be sure to completely seal every crack to make the room rodent proof. Metal siding has ridges which create gaps between the siding and the wood it is mounted to. You can get foam insulation that fits some metal siding profiles, but I don’t believe it will keep out pests. Rodents can wiggle through the tiniest of spaces, and will even drop in through the ceiling. They will also eat the rubber weather strip at the bottom of a metal door and sneak in through that space.

I’ve seen portable or mobile offices for sale on craigslist. If you want an office that is less expensive and could also serve a different purpose in the future, consider getting a cargo trailer or similar trailer. They can be insulated, heated, and wired for 110. Or you might luck out and find one that’s already finished out and has 110. I recently saw one for $6500.

I would not pour concrete. I would frame a floor like a deck with pressure treated lumber,use plywood for a sub floor, then use flooring of your choice, my choice would be a sheet of linoleum.

If you decide after a couple year to remove the room it will be easier to take out than the concrete.

Have you looked at ready made sheds where you live? That might be cheaper, and quicker, could be moved and might have resale value. Something like these?

www.shedshop.com/models-prices/studio/

Ventilation does help prevent condensation due to humidity. A vent, window, or dehumidifier will help. When you build your wall a small dead space of air between the insulation and your interior walls provides another barrier.

Good advice, CoL. Hopefully the three cats do a number on the rodent population but still good info.

Cspar - funny you should mention the framed in floor instead of concrete, it was another option I was considering and for the same reason. Just as functional but less permanent in case something changes. I did look into the mobile offices/sheds like you linked but with DIY labor, I can do this for <$5k so I don’t have a taste for the $20k options.

Thanks again, EJR.

If you’re near an Amish community you can get a 10 x 12 wood building for a very reasonable cost. I asked a couple of suppliers last year and was quoted $1100 - 1200 + delivery. It could be set up outside, or inside the pole building.

Consider also, if you get one of those portable office buildings, you don’t have to put it in the barn, can choose any location that suits you best and leave that barn for storage and supplies.

A friend had a business selling trailers, her office building burned down and she moved one of those portable buildings in that worked great for her purpose at a very low cost rent.
She liked it so much, she bought it outright.

Years later she sold the place and also sold the office building, that was moved and said it brought more than she paid for it, so it held her value well.

Hers had heat and air, but no bathroom, was close to her house.

my shop is heated and AC with a Ptac unit. They are a wall unit that you see in some hotels.

Me neither! :eek:

I just wanted to post a link with pics of the type of small building I see available here for about $1500- $2000 as kits you put together yourself, or hire someone to do the labor. Sort of like an Ikea version of a shed.

A kit could save you some time and money by having all the lumber cut and all the materials assembled and ready to go. Most just have bare stud walls, but insulation, dry wall/paneling, and climate control can easily be added.

Here, a nice shed in good condition has re-sale value once the owner is done with it. That might make this a practical option.

Unless that is all the space you have to work with. 12X12 is not very big when all said and done. Assuming you frame the walls with 2X6 for good insulation space. That will reduce the interior usable area to less than 11 feet. Everyone has a different idea of what is a comfortable size working space. After a decent size desk, bookshelf, file cab, and other creature comforts is added 11X11 may feel very tight/confining.

I agree with Casper58 and frame the floor. Level cover with a plastic vapor barrier. Rim the interior with 2X12s nail 2X6 joist hangers. Which will leave a gap to lay down 3" 4X8 ridged insulation which has a decent R value. Hang 2X6 floor joists on top of the insulation sheets. 18" spacing might be too “lively” using 12’ 2X6. So 12" spacing might be better. Deck with plywood.

Insulate the ceiling well.

Figure out you power needs. I converted a 12X20 building/shed about 20 feet from our house into my office. I ran 10-2 wire from the main panel to a small sub panel. 220 main breaker and 4-120 breakers. This powers 3, 3 foot 220 electric baseboard heaters on a programmable thermostat. 3 15 amp breakers for various outlets and 1 20 amp breaker just in case needed. Small window AC. I took out the ceiling rafters to give a high, vaulted ceiling. I have nice ceiling fan with light.

I used 1X6 tongue and groove pine paneling for the walls and ceiling. Painted the ceiling, sealed the walls with Water-lox wood sealer. Which leaves a nice “honey” color to the wood. IMO finishing with wood paneling is easier than dry wall and looks a lot nicer. Does’t add that much to the budget.

I’ll check around, cspar!

Thanks for the tip, china doll!

gumtree - The barn is 48x60 and already stores my tractor, implements, mower, 200 bales of hay and two 12x12 box stalls for the horses and some smaller things. So, I’d hate to take up more space than I need to with this project. But, points well taken and good info given - thank you!