Calf size kinda depends on the style of boot as well: more so than just Lacers or Ropers, but maker, design, use, etc. If you get a good pair of leather cowboy boots (just plain with a walking or a riding heel…if you’re doing both, I suggest walking heel,) they will stretch out, or you can take them to a boot repair shop and have them stretched slightly. You don’t need a gusset.
I can’t stand FatBabies. They look like boots that Real Housewives of (insert county of choice here) County or “I’m gonna go runnin’ barrels in booty shorts, a tank top with my boobs hangin’ out, and big ole spurs that I don’t know how to use” teenie boppers would wear.
I’ve had the same pair of plain, “distressed” pointed/rounded toe brown leather boots for the past thirteen years, and I haven’t even had to have the soles replaced in them. They’ve been worn for cattle doctoring all the way to Summer sundresses.
My fiancé has square toe black leather boots he wears with formal pants as well as riding. He just looked better in square toe, and he never did any doctoring, etc.