"Thirstiest" grasses and trees

We’ve only lived on our farmette for a year, and have realized that our flat as a pancake land does.not.drain.

We have clay soil and when it rains, water just sits on the surface. It doesn’t help that we haven’t done anything to the pasture yet, so there isn’t much growing there besides clover, weeds, and some small areas of grass.

Planning for spring, I’m thinking that having healthy, thick grass growing would help the drainage issues (on top of the several catch basins we are having installed around the property), and I know there are some trees that will suck your land dry. I just don’t know what they are :wink:

Any suggestions for “thirsty” grasses, plants, or trees?

Willow trees are a good choice

Which growing zone are you in?

you would get much better result from a consultation with county Ag agent. They can evaluate you local environment and suggest native plants that will do well. Planting non-native plants adds to invasive issues and may actually require more upkeep.

Natives are planted and almost forget them.

Managing a pasture with little absorption drainage is probably going to be very challenging. It may have more to do with prepping the soils and perhaps putting down some french drain than planting the right seed.

To answer the question if not the situation, cottonwoods. :yes:

You may also wish to add as much as possible in organic matter to your clay soil, so it gets more air into the depths. My soil is also clay, but has changed greatly since I started managing it better. Changes included spreading manure daily, fertilizing with nutrient needed to grow good pasture. Fertilizer needs were determined by soil testing so only what was needed was applied.

I did not have a plow so was only able to disc as the method of opening soil for aeration and seeding with GOOD seed. I then dragged with a chain harrow to smooth any lumps, cover seed and fertilizer before the rain. I do think the light discing was really was more of scoring the fields with big lines, was better than plowing would have been, let the land soak up water better. The land recovered faster, did not turn into a giant slime pit of open dirt before foliage and seed got growing to cover and protect the dirt from rain washing across it.

You might want to consider open ditch drains to direct water towards your catch basins. They will help a lot, not real expensive like tiling the place might be. As the land improves with additional organic material applied, soil will soak up more water, grasses and grazing plants will develop roots to use that water. Improvements will take time though, probably a few years with the soil building. Ditching is more immediately effective and visible. I kind of like watching the water flow away! Our ground is rolling, more helpful in draining than flat, but still needed direction the ditching gave water to move it away.

I would second both willow and cottonwood as good trees for wet places. Talk with your local County Extension Office about local Native Trees for planting. My Natives might not work for you. The Natives can often be better able to survive in your area than more common trees at Home Depot which like cheap Red Maple are poisonous. Natives can be really lovely trees, planting them can prevent a monoculture. If some bug or disease comes along you won’t lose all the trees. We are seeing that here with the Ash trees dying locally. I never knew there were so MANY!

[QUOTE=hoopoe;8444601]
you would get much better result from a consultation with county Ag agent. They can evaluate you local environment and suggest native plants that will do well.[/QUOTE]

Absolutely. Your agent may not know him/herself which trees will best suit your circumstances, but he/she will definitely know who to call to obtain that information. He/she can also advise you on the best ways to amend your soil to improve drainage.

[QUOTE=SugarCubes;8444472]
We’ve only lived on our farmette for a year, and have realized that our flat as a pancake land does.not.drain.

We have clay soil and when it rains, water just sits on the surface. It doesn’t help that we haven’t done anything to the pasture yet, so there isn’t much growing there besides clover, weeds, and some small areas of grass.

Planning for spring, I’m thinking that having healthy, thick grass growing would help the drainage issues (on top of the several catch basins we are having installed around the property), and I know there are some trees that will suck your land dry. I just don’t know what they are :wink:

Any suggestions for “thirsty” grasses, plants, or trees?[/QUOTE]

Sounds a bit like my soil except mine is silt base instead of clay base. Anyhow, it absorbs no water, except when the water is there for a long time, in which case it dries very slowly. I find that it helps to keep things well aerated.

Overall though an ag agent or other soil expert is the way to go. Around my area, patches of intermittent standing water do little to slow the grass from growing. In other words, the water may be less of the issue than other things and their experience will help immensely.

KGB is the most thirsty grass I know of, but you’re dealing with a soil issue more than anything, so an Ag agent is definitely who you need to speak to. Without proper soil ph, you won’t be growing anything well.

Thanks for all of the wonderful tips! You guys are a wealth of knowledge, as always :slight_smile: Yes, good points about the soil…we’d actually discussed bringing in truckloads of good topsoil for the 2 acre pasture before seeding in the spring, but sounds like I have several options to improve it.

I’ll be giving the county extension a call! And thank you, COTTONWOODS were the trees I’d heard to plant but couldn’t remember!

Goodhors You mentioned spreading manure on your pastures daily…do you allow it to compost first or are you picking stalls then spreading immediately? Do you keep your horses off the pastures you’re spreading manure on for a while?

I was under the impression you need to allow your manure pile to compost before spreading it on your fields…?

[QUOTE=SugarCubes;8447252]
Goodhors You mentioned spreading manure on your pastures daily…do you allow it to compost first or are you picking stalls then spreading immediately? Do you keep your horses off the pastures you’re spreading manure on for a while?

I was under the impression you need to allow your manure pile to compost before spreading it on your fields…?[/QUOTE]

Composting is the optimum solution but not the only one.

A good spreader has a “beater bar” on the back that will break up the clumps of manure into a finer material. That exposes it quickly to sunlight which is the enemy of most parasites and their immature offspring. It’s best to allow a period of time between spreading and putting animals back onto a manured pasture.

As with all land management practices they can be compromises between “best” and “most practical” practices.

G.

Besides willow and cottonwood, river and paper birches can also be “thirsty”. Added bonus is the interesting bark.

[QUOTE=SugarCubes;8447252]
Goodhors You mentioned spreading manure on your pastures daily…do you allow it to compost first or are you picking stalls then spreading immediately? Do you keep your horses off the pastures you’re spreading manure on for a while?

I was under the impression you need to allow your manure pile to compost before spreading it on your fields…?[/QUOTE]

I do not compost because the clay soil NEEDS all that bulk of organic matter to work down into the clay for aereation. The sawdust, hay chaff, straw, helps to hold the clay particles apart, ‘loosening’ the soil with work of micro organisms, worms, pulling it down into the dirt. Anything you can get to keep the clay particles apart, will improve drainage, prevent the slippery effect of water on clay. Plant roots will more easily grow down and spread out, helping further break apart the soil particles.

The other thing is all this great organic matter you spread or get from mowing fields, is always breaking down, needs constant replacing to continue the good effects in and on the clay soil. Composting greatly reduces your volume of organic matter, so you have BETTER stuff to spread, but it doesn’t go very far, breaks down quickly. Spreading just as bedding from cleaned stalls, not composting, makes the organic matter go further, last longer with slower break down, to hold the clay particles apart longer and better over time.

As Guilherme explained, the bedding is spread widely, thin layer with the manure spreader. Not a thick heavy layer on the pastures. Particles are quite exposed to sunshine, heat or cold, to aid in reducing of parasites in that manure. I spread daily, don’t want a manure pile to attract flies, have to be handled again for spreading at a later time. We try to do ‘one and done’ with jobs here, so I put bedding in the spreader while cleaning stalls, spread the bedding on the fields, never handle it again. A second benefit also means daily spreading keeps spreader floor and chains dry, not rusting and rotting with urine sitting on them until spreader is filled, nothing to draw flies.

Not sure how much acreage you have, but I don’t have much. I plan to feed our horses on pasture during the warm months, not buying hay. So our horses get rotated among the fields often, really not able to ‘give pasture time off’ as the manure ages on the field. I try to spread on a field right after horses come off and it has been mowed. I am not going to cover the whole field before I rotate horses again, spread and mow the field they just came off. This lets field sit for a bit between visits for grazing by the horses. Usually about a week to 10 days now that we have more animals, I rotate them often to prevent over grazing.

I mow often most years, to keep growth even, not let leaves get long and lose nutrition. I never mow shorter than 5 inches, which keeps the plant healthier, productive. Shorter leaf plants develop better roots, which grow deeper, spread wider to feed the plant well, keep it growing in dry times. So yes, the horses may be grazing in fields that have ‘new’ manure on parts of them. That manure is good for covering exposed dirt, acting as mulch to the forage plants to prevent sun burning them. Microbial life increases incredibly, like having little workers that never take a day off while improving your dirt! Bedding spread out thinly also is preventing dirt from drying out faster, cracking in the heat of sunshine, helps prevent heavy rain just sluicing across a field without soaking in, causing erosion. My mulched fields cover improved clay soil that keeps my plant roots damp in drought times, so my grazing is still good for a long time after other folks grazing has disappeared with the dryness they have.

So far all the FEC testing has come up negative on our horses, even with them grazing fields recently spread with bedding materials. It would be nice to have more acreage, commit to not using a field we spread on for a year. But we don’t have that much so I work with what we have. Grazing is vastly improved with manure spreading, yearly fertilizing, regular mowing of the fields all season until Labor Day. I let the grass grow long then, covers and protects the dirt from sharp hooves tearing it up into muck. My soil now LOOKS like regular dirt, but I have the clay down under working for me. I think clay is a benefit to my pastures now, they always have plenty of water for the plants, which grow very well here. Living on sand pastures would be a challenge to me!

Great info! Goodhors, we are on a small acreage too and have a wooded treeline at the back of the property where I’ve made my manure pile, but spreading on the pastures would make life much, much easier and if it improves the soil it’s an added bonus!

I guess for your ‘system’ to work you’d need 3 separate pastures? One to spread new bedding on, one that’s sitting a week or 10 days, and one the horses are currently on?

Again, thank you for your replies, they are immensely helpful :slight_smile:

Willows also love water.

Check also to make sure if you do plant cottonwoods to check the type. Some locations you can no longer plant cottonwoods that seed. Also check to make sure that whatever you plant, you are not planting an invasive species…

I would get to the county agent and find out if your land is a determined “wetland” in an area that cares about such things before you touch it. I’ve inherited property that is mostly a wetland and if I were to modify it in any way to cause it to drain I would be subject to a whole lot of grief. I can sell it to someone that needs “wetland credits” for a project elsewhere and have a win win but that’s about it.

If you are allowed to modify it, you can do all kinds of stuff with earthmoving equipment to make your pasture more rolling so it will drain off, but you lose the pasture for quite some time as the dirt resettles and the grasses fully regrow. Bring in fill, contour, dig a catchment and move that dirt, etc.

The quickest is to add perimeter ditches to keep any water from flowing on to your property, make sure your place really is pancake flat and not a lowest point, and then the cross ditches or underground drains to a catchment, underground drains are harder but easiest on the horses and you and your tractor, and then any vegetation in the willow/alder/cottonwood/cypress/redwoods groups as long as they are native and not noxious spreaders or poisonous, again consult the county agent on that.

And as well you might have a vernal spring or something of that nature, it can be hard to tell the difference.