Tow Hitch Newbie

[murphyluv]

Hauling newbie with a stupid question…
Where does one buy a drawbar and ball for a new truck?

I just purchased a 2016 Tundra, with factory installed towing package, I LOVE driving it, plan is to get a two horse bumper pull this winter or spring, and I plan on moving soon (hopefully next month) and will probably be renting a Uhaul trailer.

Every truck I’ve seen or had someone haul my horse with already had hitch, obviously. I do know that not all are created equal and it may also depend on the trailer weight. So should I wait until I find a trailer first? It also looks like Uhaul will rent you the hitch.

I’ve googled and that’s not been much help.
Thanks!

[Jim_in_PA]

Ideally, you would have wanted your new Tundra with factory towing…it’s not just about the hitch receiver and electrical…there are often suspension and cooling improvements that come with factory towing.

You don’t need to wait to buy a trailer first. In fact, you shouldn’t buy a trailer until you ascertain what the acceptable trailer load and tongue weight will be for your truck with a third party hitch receiver installed. Toyota will have to be consulted for that…it may be in your manual. The hitch receiver you buy will generally be a Class III/IV hitch receiver and is available from a number of different sources. etrailer.com is a good place to look online. And no, you do not want a “rental hitch receiver”…it needs to be permanently installed on your truck. They bolt to the frame. You’ll also need the proper wiring added/activated and a brake controller for a horse trailer.

[DHCarrotfeeder]

[QUOTE=murphyluv;8819413]
Hauling newbie with a stupid question…
Where does one buy a hitch for a new truck?

I just purchased a 2016 Tundra, I LOVE driving it, plan is to get a two horse bumper pull this winter or spring, and I plan on moving soon (hopefully next month) and will probably be renting a Uhaul trailer.

Every truck I’ve seen or had someone haul my horse with already had hitch, obviously. I do know that not all are created equal and it may also depend on the trailer weight. So should I wait until I find a trailer first? It also looks like Uhaul will rent you the hitch.

I’ve googled and that’s not been much help.
Thanks![/QUOTE]

Well, firstly there is the actual hitch that connects to the frame of the truck. As mentioned already, this often comes from the factory as a “tow kit” that can include wiring, cooling, and other additions. I would not skip those additions, personally. Get the hitch installed now.

Secondly, there are two parts to the hitch that you will buy separately: the receiver and the ball with drawbar. The receiver should be rated in excess of any trailer you tow, probably a 2" Class III. You should buy the ball with draw bar specifically to fit the trailer you buy. The ball needs to match exactly to the ball diameter of the trailer, and its draw bar should have the proper “drop” to set the trailer chassis level when fully loaded. The trailer seller should get you a fitting drawbar and ball for around $30.

Finally, there are weight distribution hitches. For your truck that’s likely a very good idea. It adds stability and safety even if your truck happens to be rated to not require it. With a weight distribution hitch, you get the drawbar and ball in the package. So the two parts of your hitch would then be the receiver attached to the truck, and the weight distribution hitch that is both attached to the trailer and fits in the receiver. I would have the party supplying the WD hitch install it for you. If you’re buying from a trailer dealer, I’d leave that for the last step in the negotiations and make sure they throw that in for free.

If you’re completely new to towing, I suggest you actually do some reading about it relative to your state and its laws. In addition, get a roadside emergency kit that meets those regulations and get to know the spare wheel and jack tools with your truck. I’m probably sounding like a nanny but if (when?) you break down you’ll be happy to know this. And the LEO who may stop to assist will be happy to know you have the right equipment.

[murphyluv]

Thanks! Ok, I think I’m not using the right terms then. I did my research before buying the truck, the 2016 5.7 L Tundra’s all come with factory installed towing packages, including brake controllers, hitch receiver, and trailer sway control. Towing capacity of 10k, I need to look up what class the receiver is rated for?

I guess I’m looking for the drawbar and ball, which I should wait until I buy the trailer. But, I can specifically buy a weight distribution hitch, which fits in the receiver that is currently on my truck and needs to fit the trailer. That’s basically what I’m asking, so you answered my question, thanks!
Good suggestion on reading the laws, I have a lot of research to do before buying the trailer but I bought the truck first. I need to figure out how to get the spare out too… Not being a nanny, all great suggestions!

There’s some more info here I just found:
http://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/toyota-tundra-towing-basics-what-to-know-before-you-tow/

[Jim_in_PA]

Thanks for the clarification. You have the things I mentioned on the truck so you’re good to go on that end. You should not buy your ball mount and ball until you’ve decided on your trailer because you need to know the “drop” required for the trailer’s actual hitch height and the correct ball size. The latter will “likely” by 2 5/16", but there are some BP horses trailers that use 2" balls. Go with a class IV ball mount and you’ll be good regardless. And buy quality, not price.

[gumtree]

I have yet to see or know of a vehicle that comes with a Factory installed tow package that doesn’t have the receiver factory installed also. Factory installed tow packages vary as to wiring, controllers, etc. Yours came with everything, soup to nuts. What was not included was the hitch and ball because this is owner/trailer specific.

There are several towing classes available as explained here;

https://www.reese-hitches.com/learning_center/general-towing-classes

Based on information given I would guess yours is a class IV. But both class IV and III receivers accept/take a 2" square hitch. There are a number of different 2" types and in this class as seen on this page of hitches offered by Tractor Supply;

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/catalog/hitch-receivers

The “type” will be dictated by the trailer design, specs, height of the tongue from the ground when the trailer is level and the height of the receiver from the ground on your Tundra.

Some rigs require a drop hitch so that the trailer will ride level and or reasonably level. How much of a drop needed will be based on the measurements as explained above taken after getting a trailer Some may only need a standard straight hitch.

The size of the ball needed will be stamped on the trailer tongue. Most BP trailers are 2".

I tow a number of different horse trailers and other types of trailers along with hay wagons and farm equipment with my Jeep GC V-8 and tow package. So I have a number of different hitches in my shop.

IMO seeing that you are going to be trailer shopping I would just get a multi-ball hitch to start with. What ever trailer you buy this will have a ball to fit. It may not ride level when you bring it home but no big deal. The object is to get it home and figure out what the hitch it needs after. Most people who have a tow vehicle end up getting other trailers of some sort. This type of hitch is handy to have around.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/reese-towpower-elite-black-nickel-tri-ball-ball-mount-1-7-8-in-2-in-and-2-5-16-in-hitch-balls

Changing balls on a hitch is pretty easy with basic hand tools. When towing wagons, farm equipment that use a pin I just take the ball off.

[murphyluv]

Thanks! Super helpful! As always, the more you learn, the more you realize you don’t know or didn’t think of… I may just get a multi-ball hitch to start with, just to have so I can tow most anything that comes along, then get something more specific with what trailer I end up with.
Thank you so much everyone for clarifying!

[DHCarrotfeeder]

[QUOTE=gumtree;8820250]

Changing balls on a hitch is pretty easy with basic hand tools. When towing wagons, farm equipment that use a pin I just take the ball off.[/QUOTE]

I removed the ball from a hitch once. It took a vise and the largest impact wrench in our shop at work. It was not a “hand tool” experience that time.

I agree it’s simple in concept, but personally I’d rather spend the extra few bucks and change the ball and drawbar together.

David

[Jim_in_PA]

[QUOTE=murphyluv;8820633]
Thanks! Super helpful! As always, the more you learn, the more you realize you don’t know or didn’t think of… I may just get a multi-ball hitch to start with, just to have so I can tow most anything that comes along, then get something more specific with what trailer I end up with.
Thank you so much everyone for clarifying![/QUOTE]

I do not recommend a multi-ball setup…they are typically on a straight ball mount and that very likely will not provide you the proper ball height for your trailer when you get it. You’ll most likely need a 4-6" drop, give or take, to have the trailer tongue at the correct height. If you want to get something to use in the mean time, pick a ball mount with a drop that gives you between 18" and 20" off the ground to the top of the ball when it’s mounted in the receiver on the back of your truck. A 2" ball is typical for most “utility trailers” you’ll buy or rent.

The only place that I’ve found a multi-ball to be helpful is in the hitch receiver attachment I have for my Kubota tractor, which I can vary in height at the push of a lever.

[cnvh]

You may be surprised at the drop you will need with your trailer… I needed an 8" drop with my first (older) BP!

TSC has a lot of basic options, but I also found www.etrailer.com to be an EXCELLENT online resource for supplies… If you need it, chances are they will have it. Customer service is great, shipping is quick and reasonable (and free over a certain amount, IIRC)…

If you have a factory-installed towing package, hopefully this will be a non-issue for you, but if by chance it’s an after-market brake controller that the dealer installed prior to sale, make sure it’s a proportional controller, NOT a time-delay controller. Time-delay controllers are horrid and why they even still make them is beyond me. (Probably because they’re cheaper, I guess.)

[gumtree]

[QUOTE=Jim_in_PA;8821232]
I do not recommend a multi-ball setup…they are typically on a straight ball mount and that very likely will not provide you the proper ball height for your trailer when you get it. You’ll most likely need a 4-6" drop, give or take, to have the trailer tongue at the correct height. If you want to get something to use in the mean time, pick a ball mount with a drop that gives you between 18" and 20" off the ground to the top of the ball when it’s mounted in the receiver on the back of your truck. A 2" ball is typical for most “utility trailers” you’ll buy or rent.

The only place that I’ve found a multi-ball to be helpful is in the hitch receiver attachment I have for my Kubota tractor, which I can vary in height at the push of a lever.[/QUOTE]

“multi-ball setup…they are typically on a straight ball mount and that very likely will not provide you the proper ball height for your trailer”

Jim, you really should take the time to read and digest what others write.

I wrote;

MO seeing that you are going to be trailer shopping I would just get a multi-ball hitch to start with. What ever trailer you buy this will have a ball to fit. It may not ride level when you bring it home but no big deal. The object is to get it home and figure out what the hitch it needs after. Most people who have a tow vehicle end up getting other trailers of some sort. This type of hitch is handy to have around.

So I think I acknowledged the good possibility what ever trailer the OP gets will need a drop hitch. And explained how to go about figuring out what size drop hitch. Pretty darn simple to figure out for anybody with a tape measure and a bit of common sense.

I suggested to get a multi ball so when the OP finds a trailer they can get it home without having to go back and with the proper size drop hitch for it. Myself and many others I know like having it because a lot of us have or will get a utility trailer of some sort and or may have access to friends who have one to borrow. I lend the 2 I have all the time. Both require a different size ball so I lend the hitch also.

I didn’t pay the $$$ for the name brand I linked to bought mine at Harbor Freight for a lot less, around $25 on sale.

“A 2” ball is typical for most “utility trailers” you’ll buy or rent"

While this is true, my smaller utility trailer uses a 1 7/8 my larger one 2. Both of my 2 horse BP are 2 inch. A larger one I borrow is 2 5/16. So there are exceptions to your “rule”.

[hosspuller]

Be aware of the danger a multiball hitch poses. It has the next size “DOWN” ball available. If your trailer requires say… a 2 5/16" ball and you set it to the 2" ball… The trailer will fit on it. But it will bump off… and ruin your day and perhaps kill someone.

[gumtree]

[QUOTE=DHCarrotfeeder;8821002]
I removed the ball from a hitch once. It took a vise and the largest impact wrench in our shop at work. It was not a “hand tool” experience that time.

I agree it’s simple in concept, but personally I’d rather spend the extra few bucks and change the ball and drawbar together.

David[/QUOTE]

Lol, fair enough and it does depend on what one considers basic hand tools. The nut is larger then what most people would have in their socket set. Requires a bigger crescent wench than most would have. And a breaker bar if it is really stuck, though Blaster penetrating oil does an excellent job of losing things.

I leave the hitch on my truck lock the ball with vice-grips and have a very large crescent wrench I bought on sale at H-B for something like $10. Don’t use it that often but for $10-20 it is god sent the few times I do.

Love Harbor Freight for these kind of cheap “odd use” tools. Bought a set of large long handle combination wrenches 1-2 1/2" for something like $30 on sale. Don’t use them much but when needed they are a life/stress/frustration saver. These make taking a stuck ball off even easier.

[enjoytheride]

I think the issue with the multi ball options is that they typically come out straight and I’ve never seen a horse trailer configured that way. I believe mine is a 4 inch drop for my 4 X 4 truck.

My 1982 trailer takes a 2 5/16 ball which is pretty standard and you should be able to tell when you eyeball it. It’s not very common to have a 2 inch ball and usually they “look funny” and have a different type of closure than normal.

I actually take my ball off my truck every time I’m done with it. People steal them, people hit them, they rust, and you run into them yourself. I take it off, put it in my truck, and put a receiver cap to protect from rust. Takes no time at all to pull the pin.

I would rather have a drop hitch for a trailer with the proper sized ball and purchase a different one if I plan on towing anything else.

[pheasantknoll]

After you find your trailer, get the info and go to NAPA auto parts! These guys are serious and can help you. Don’t balk at the prices, you want quality when pulling your best friends in a metal box?

[murphyluv]

Great input! Thanks everyone!

[airhorse]

https://www.amazon.com/Trimax-TRZ8ALRP-Aluminum-Adjustable-Adjustment/dp/B00J0ABNHU/ref=pd_lpo_263_bs_t_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WMR05QSNW89FYDB198KP

[WNT]

Ditto taking the ball off when you are done. I had a locking hitch pin, and left it mounted for a very, very long time. Long story short, the lock froze up. I took it to my (wonderful) local trailer guys to cut the lock off; no biggie. However the pin had also rusted frozen into the ball mount. The receiver was ok, but it took an awful lot of effort to remove enough of the pin to get the mount out of the receiver.

Went home with a new mount and ball and the admonition to take it out of the receiver when I was done hauling! I’m sure neighborhood shins will appreciate it, too.