Tractors- New vs Used

[dani0303]

My SO and I are finally in a position to start looking for a tractor. We have a budget around $10k for a used machine or we could finance a new one.

We’re looking for something in the 30-40 HP range that can move 3x3 bales, run a brush hog, a back blade, and a loader bucket. We found a great deal on a 2001 JD 4400 but they dealer wouldn’t negotiate at all and I walked away from it. We hadn’t originally considered new but the 0% financing offers and a warranty is tempting.

Any recommendations? Words of wisdom?

[clanter]

to add to your search:

John Deere has some ongoing “Special Offers for 5E (45-75 hp) Utility Tractors”
https://www.deere.com/en_US/buying_and_finance/usa/special_offers/agriculture/5e_5d_series.page

full list of special current specials

https://search.deere.com/DDC/en_US/Special_Offer/?v%3Afile=viv_2jzpID&v:state=root|root-10-10|0

[vineyridge]

Personally, I’d go for used, especially if you live in an area where smaller tractors are common. Remember that new tractors are filled with all sorts of modern improvements that will cost extra money to be fixed and will keep you tied to dealer mechanics because of all their complexity. And if my experience is normal, JD shops cost far more than the shops of other dealers. If you are looking, also look at Case/IH, New Holland/Ford, and Kubota. You will pay a lot more for the JD name.

If I were you, I’d look for a Ford (NH) 3930 with loader or equivalent. It’s about the most basic tractor you can buy, is a true utility tractor, and will outlast you. Well maintained genuine tractors (not mini tractors) will last forever. However, they don’t go down much in price–in fact, they tend to appreciate with inflation.

I quite honestly would not want a new small tractor. If you could come up with 5k more, your options would be vastly improved.

Does your state have an AG classified newsletter? Here, we have the Mississippi Market Bulletin, and there are always used tractors with loaders advertised, and some of them are really, really old.

[NancyM]

If your farming activities are “making money” and you have farm status, then buying new and this sort of financing may be not a bad idea. If you have a hobby farm, are not bonafide “farmers”, and are not making money with the tractor, then buying new is less attractive. Buying a good used tractor, one without computerization (so that you can work on it yourself), the value of the tractor stays about the same, not much depreciation over time. JMHO. We have bought new, once, and still have it 20 years later. We have bought used, and still have that too, 12 years later. We prefer to buy used equipment, and not have to worry about the HUGE depreciation. Good farming equipment, well cared for, tends to last a long time.

[SusanO]

Mine is smaller than what you are looking for but I think I got the best of both worlds - a Mahindra E-max with just 30 hours on it. Saved 3-4K by doing this. It is still under full warranty until 2017 and 3 more years of limited warranty. I just took it in to have it’s first servicing and I have had NO problems with it. I have a hobby farm so no writing off of depreciation and a new tractor did not make financial sense when I found this one.

[Guilherme]

Right now, with the very low interest rates (including 0% in some cases) the argument for new construction is compelling. It generally meas at least a year of warranty and likely more than a couple of relatively trouble free performance. That, too, can be compelling.

I’ve also seen ads for tractors coming “off lease.” Lots of the makers put their products in show venues on short term leases and then sell them off at the end of a show season. They will be generally “basic” units but with low hours and decent maintenance. Often they will have some warranty with them (ranging from a new warranty to the remainder of the factory warranty).

Used can mean “gently used” and “used like a rented mule.” The former is not a bad idea, the latter generally means “have a big budget for repairs.” Know a lot about what you’re looking at or have somebody who does know on “speed dial.”

Like so many things, shopping for a tractor means kissing a lot of frogs before you find your prince.

Good luck in your search.

G.

[gumtree]

IMO there is no easy answer to buying used verses new. It depends on budget, needs and DIY skills.

Before deciding on a tractor make a list of what you will be using it for. IMO a FEL is a necessity not a luxury. But if it is undersized for what it will be used for, needed for you will be throwing away money and or wished you had spent a bit more for the next size up. Remember the tractor is a major part of the equation when it comes to what a FEL can do and can’t do. 1 ton of dirt or gravel does not make for a very big “pile”. Moving a large round bale or medium large square (600-700 lbs) is usually within the lifting capacity of a lot of compact tractors. But there is more involved than just being able to lift it. But also be able to move it around safely and comfortably.

This is where the physics term “potential energy” comes into play. “Since the gravitational potential energy of an object is directly proportional to its height above the zero position, a doubling of the height will result in a doubling of the gravitational potential energy”

So the size of the tractor, weight, wheel base breaking strength etc. is important.

The same when it comes to attachments. The size, weight and breaking ability of the tractor dictates what kind of equipment can be safely used. The power at the PTO is very important also. A tractor can be rated at 50 hp but only have say 25 hp at the PTO. PTO driven attachments will state how much “power” at the PTO is required to run the machine efficiently.

Different types/styles of the same attachments have different hydraulic outlets needs. Some may only need 1 some may need 3-4. Some tractors can have hydraulic outlets added after manufacturing reasonably cheap others can be very expensive.

You want to make sure the tractor is equipped with the desired/needed “gearing”. High and low range and number of forward gears, ground speed. Ground speed comes into play far more than the average operator realizes. Especially when it comes to mowing and the type of mower being used. Avoid buying commercial non farm setup tractors. Their ground speeds can be either to fast or too slow for general farm uses.

IMO 4WD is a must have for the vast majority of operators. Better to have it and not use it much. Then to need it and not have it. Even if it is only the odd occasion.

IMO make a list of what attachments will be used, needed now and in the future. Research what size tractor and hydraulic outlets the various attachments will need and than start your search.

There is value to be had in buying used if you know what you are doing and what to look for and what to avoid. Hours on the machine are obviously a good indicator of how much it has been used. But what was it being used for when operated?

Tractors used by farmers and or for commercial use is going to have a lot more wear and tear regardless of hours than ones used by a horse farm. Tractors, equipment in general that is owner operated are “cared for” better than those operated by employees.

“We prefer to buy used equipment, and not have to worry about the HUGE depreciation”

All tractors are tractors but not all brands of tractors are valued the same in the used market.

I am told and some research will back this up John Deer tractors have the highest resale value. At least their utility and up size tractors. I bought my JD 5525 in 2005 with a few extra features above the base model. It is still worth more than 80% of what I paid for it 11 years ago. It would sell quickly if I put it on the market at top dollar, low hours, horse farm used and has the “right set up”

Unlike car dealers, dealerships where haggling is expected. There is little to no room to haggle with tractor dealerships. Especially JD.

I agree that JD dealer servicing can be expensive. But most are very reliable and require little to no service by the dealer. All of the manufacture’s service requirements are a pretty easy DIY with only basic tools need. My tractor has never been to the dealer for servicing. It has always started even on very cold days. (hope Murphy’s law doesn’t bite me for saying this). It came with a engine block heater anyway. On VERY cold days I just plug it in for say a 1/2 hour and it starts perfectly.

Tractor House forum is generally a good one to ask for advise.

http://www.mytractorforum.com/3-welcome-mytractorforum-com-getting-started/

Their used equipment site give prices from around the country.

http://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/list/?manu=JOHN+DEERE&mdltxt=4400

[Ticker]

We have an older JD 4400 and have recently dealt with fixing the hydraulic system…twice. Great tractor but some of the parts are obsolete now and no replacements have been designated.

I would ask about this before purchasing an older tractor.

[Jim_in_PA]

Tough decision because ultimately, the accurate answer is “it depends”. $10K, while a nice chunk of change, doesn’t necessarily provide a “more recent” model year tractor of the size and capability you want and…it’s used. Probably heavily. You have to balance that risk with the benefits of a new tractor warranty and features that come on current generation machines. And parts availability as someone already mentioned. The 0% financing really is very attractive in that respect and current generation Deere and Kubota (I prefer the latter) tractors are very nice and extremely capable. Local supply also plays into this. Sometimes you stumble upon a great used buy; sometimes there’s nothing out there within reasonable proximity.

BTW, dealers in the tractor market are not really inclined to discount new machines nor dicker much on used machines. The market is strong for both. While some folks to land “a deal”, the opposite is more often the case. If you are a USEF member, Deere does offer financial incentives to members.

[2miniB]

[QUOTE=vineyridge;8921508]
Personally, I’d go for used, especially if you live in an area where smaller tractors are common. Remember that new tractors are filled with all sorts of modern improvements that will cost extra money to be fixed and will keep you tied to dealer mechanics because of all their complexity. And if my experience is normal, JD shops cost far more than the shops of other dealers. If you are looking, also look at Case/IH, New Holland/Ford, and Kubota. You will pay a lot more for the JD name.

If I were you, I’d look for a Ford (NH) 3930 with loader or equivalent. It’s about the most basic tractor you can buy, is a true utility tractor, and will outlast you. Well maintained genuine tractors (not mini tractors) will last forever. However, they don’t go down much in price–in fact, they tend to appreciate with inflation.

I quite honestly would not want a new small tractor. If you could come up with 5k more, your options would be vastly improved.

Does your state have an AG classified newsletter? Here, we have the Mississippi Market Bulletin, and there are always used tractors with loaders advertised, and some of them are really, really old.[/QUOTE]

Seconding a Ford Tractor. We have 2. The smaller one came with our house, and it’s been worth it. We use it for pretty much everything…dragging, pulling stuck equipment, moving material, gardening, etc. The 60hp Ford is a beast. It’ll pull a plow through just about anything, pull a snow thrower up and down the driveway, etc. We got it used from the Midwest, barely used, for a pretty good price.

We also have a new, small Kubota. It’s only good for moving small amounts of manure and mowing. It’s too flimsy for anything else. It protests a bucket load of stone dust…or moving any real weight.

[hosspuller]

20 years ago, I was considering compact tractors for horse keeping on our new farm. A FEL was a requirement, so that made 4x4 a requirement too. Guys at my job convinced me to step up to a full sized AG tractor. The price differential was insignificant.

I bought a used Deere 5200. 45 horsepower but heavily built with hydraulics to match. And CAT 2 three point… (you’ll learn the lingo soon enough, power only determines the speed at which you can get jobs done. Size and weight determine if the tractor can do the job)

It has not seen the inside of any service bay much less Deere’s in 20 years or 2000 hours on the meter. The routine maintenance service has been DIY.

It has been well matched to my small acreage and horse needs. Glad I moved up to a full size AG utility tractor.

[kcmel]

You may be able to finance a used tractor if you get it from a dealer. We financed our used Kubota at a really low interest rate (this was ~10 years ago). We’ve had no issues with it at all. I would definitely go used–more bang for the buck.