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Trailer GVWR vs truck tow capacity.. someone smarter than me please help!

Hello! I’m trying to buy a new (to me) trailer.

My truck has a tow capacity of 12,000lbs, combined rating of 22,000, payload 3300-3600 (info varies), and GVWR of 9,200 (Chevy diesel 2500 HD).

The trailer I’m looking at is a 2H GN with a GVWR of 10,400/empty weight 5,200. Can someone explain how the GVWR of the trailer ties into the tow capacity of the truck? I am assuming I don’t want a trailer’s GVWR to potentially be more than my truck but also 1) how then would I haul 12,000lbs (not saying I would) and 2) I don’t think I even have 5,000 pounds of stuff to max out the trailer. At the very most I would carry: 2 horses: 960lb and 1300lb, a week of hay 350lb, 39 gallons of water 325lb, tack etc. might make it around 8,500? Usually I’m hauling one horse on day trips so significantly less weight. I’m in Washington state so I don’t think the 10,000 GVWR on trailers applies since I am not commercial but that did also cross my mind.

My current GN trailer is so old it doesn’t have any of this info so I wasn’t really aware that trailers had a GVWR as well :see_no_evil: Is this an unwise situation? Is there a reason to have the GW of the trailer be less than that of the towing vehicle? I’m hear to learn and understand these numbers. Thank you so much!!

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So your trailer can carry 10,400lb INCLUDING the empty trailer and everything - so 5200lb of cargo (horses, hay, water, gear, AC units, spare tires, awnings, etc).

Your truck can carry a COMBINED truck weight, truck payload, and tongue weight of 9200lbs, and can tow up to 12,000lbs (is this traditional/BP or gooseneck? Those numbers will be different). Your towing capacity and GVWR added together come to 22,000lbs aka your combined capacity.

On paper, assuming your numbers are correct, this is a well matched rig. The part where people get into the weeds is when they forget that EVERY. SINGLE. ADDITIONAL. POUND. counts. The awning and interior redo of the tack room and extra spare tire and extra dog or kid in the truck add up! That, plus water and the fact that most people severely underestimate the weight of their horses can put people over the limit if they are riding the line on capacity.

To answer part of your question, it’s always better to be under capacity - so having a lower GVWR trailer than your truck makes sense. It means as long as you don’t over load your trailer (and keep your tongue weight correct), you won’t overload your truck.

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Thank you for going over each of those things. I rechecked and the 5th wheel/gooseneck max is 15300 which makes sense for the combined load (2295 hitch weight which would come out of the vehicles GVWR if I understand the explanation), so 9200 (including hitch weight) + 13005 (remaining trailer weight) = 22005. So the trailer being at 10,000 GVWR (if I stuffed everything I owned in there) is quite a bit less than the max amount.

So technically I’m fine with a GVWR on the trailer being more than the truck, but it’s wise to have one that’s less? If yes, when shopping for a trailer with my tow vehicle’s GVWR at 9200, is there any recommended trailer GVWR number I’m looking for? Equal to or less than the truck? Some percentage? Is this due to the live load (horses) vs dead load (cement), or max capacity at perfect conditions (flat, no wind, no maneuvering) vs all conditions?

Appreciate you taking the time to help!

I mean, it doesn’t really matter. What matters is the actual weight you ask your rig to carry! GVWR is important info, but it’s really not a number to focus on as heavily as I think you are.

Take the weight of your horses, gear, hay, etc, and add a good buffer for safety (I round way up and slap an extra 500lb on there just to be safe). This becomes your base load weight for your trailer. Add this Base Weight to the dry weight of any trailer you’re looking at, and make sure that number is WELL under your towing capacity. Under 75% is fabulous, maxing out your capacity is not.

Make sure your payload + tongue or hitch weight come in under that payload capacity and you should be just fine. You can pull a trailer with a higher GVWR as long as you stay under your towing and payload! It’s just that a higher GVWR usually means more space for more horses, and that can be VERY tempting :laughing:

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Your trailer has wheels, and your truck is not supporting the entire weight of the trailer. Your gvwr is the dry weight of the truck, plus passengers and a payload - in the case of a trailer, this is your tongue or pin weight.

The trailer weight, dry or loaded, has really no bearing on your gvwr - a heavy trailer can end up having less pin weight than a lighter one if the axles and load are placed differently.

Put your trailer on and go over some scales if you’re nervous.

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In general, a Chevy diesel 2500 should be plenty of truck to tow a 2h gooseneck trailer loaded with 2 horses plus their tack and supplies in a very safe and stable fashion. In addition to calculating the weight factors, the longer wheelbase of a truck affords additional towing stability.

I commend you for being meticulous in considering your vehicle’s towing ability, and congrats on your new rig!

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I know the truck isn’t supporting the full weight of the trailer. I had heard a few times that it isn’t wise to haul a horse trailer with a GVWR higher than the towing vehicle’s GVWR, which is why I was confused and wanted to understand why people would say that when my tow capacity is higher than the weight of the vehicle.

I don’t think I need to weigh the truck and trailer - I’m not concerned about going over the combined weight.

I’ve never heard that before, honestly. You are more than capable of hauling your trailer with the truck you’ve got. Set your brakes to pull the truck to a stop from an idle roll and you’re golden.

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Yeah I don’t know, maybe I have overly cautious friends or something :laughing:

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Thank you so much for the clarifications!

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