Trailering horse about 6 hours, any tips?

In the end of August I’m trailering my horse from MA to VT for college. I have a two horse trailer that’s all checked out and good for highway travel. the drive is usually 4.5 - 5 hours, but with the trailer attached I’m assuming it will be somewhere around 6 hours. We are going to start traveling between 6:00 - 6:30 AM to make it there ideally by 1:00 PM. I feel like I have a good plan with the timing and the route I have planned out (maximum highways vs back roads). However, I have a few concerns that I’d like advice for.

  1. My horse will unfortunately be in the trailer alone. He isn’t terribly attached to other horses, but I know this isn’t ideal. We are planning to balance out the other side of the trailer with heavy stuff like my dorm fridge, tack, etc.

  2. I’ve never hauled a trailer long distance before. Thankfully my father has hauled boats and massive trailers across country before, so he has some experience. He’ll be the driver, and I’ll follow in my car to make sure no one tailgates

  3. It is the summer time, and I’m worried that he will over heat. I’m already going to have as many windows open as possible, and a bucket of water and a sponge to coll him down during breaks. But is this enough?

So if anyone has any further suggestions, I’m all ears! Thanks!

I have lots of hours hauling horses across the country so I have a few tips that may be helpful. I also had the unfortunate experience of being in an accident in which the trailer tipped but we had done a few things right so the injuries were relatively minor. I now always prep my horses and trailers as if there could be an accident. [LIST=1]

  • A single horse will be fine in terms of balancing the load. Do not put other stuff in the trailer because if you get into an accident loose objects in the trailer can become lethal projectiles. Even a well tied down fridge can come loose if a trailer tips. Morse stuff in the trailer will also reduce air-flow.
  • It sounds like you are travelling during a cool time of day so hopefully the heat won’t be a problem but you could try getting the horse on electrolytes a few days before you haul so it’s used to the taste and that will encourage him to drink when you stop. Feeding apples periodically during the trip is an easy way to get some liquids in.
  • Best not to wrap or blanket him if you are concerned about heat. If he loads well, don’t bother with leg wraps. He won’t really need them once he’s in the trailer.
  • If you tie the horse in the trailer, tie him to something that will break (like twine) if he needs his head to balance during a rough ride. If you are tying him using a leather halter, also have a nylon halter on that is not tied to anything. That way if the leather halter breaks, you have the nylon halter to grab him.
  • Write down the phone numbers of a few horse vet clinics along the way so you can call someone local if you run into trouble. [/LIST] Don’t be spooked my experience, my accident occurred during a winter blizzard. I’m sure your summer drive will be a breeze. I also took my horse to college and it was such a great time. Enjoy the adventure!
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    If you are concerned about overheating, you can put bags of ice in the bedding to create coolness.

    6 hours is not bad at all, the horse will settle into the ride. When you do gas stops, always offer water.

    Do you plan on wrapping or shipping boots?

    We’ve hauled quite a few for 12-24 hours, just checking on them and offering water is key. They actually stay quite happy and just roll with the ride and are content. If they are not an easily settled horse, it won’t take long for them to realize it’s a long ride to their next destination. Have fun!

    I’ve made that trip - on July 3rd from MA to NH. It was WICKED hot and the traffic through the lakes region toll stop was brutal. He was fine, I stopped once and offered him water, he drank a little then we set off, its all fine, he was tired at the end of the trip, and hot but nothing to worry about.

    Thank you! my trailer has a partition in it, hence why I was going to balance out the trailer as he won’t be standing in the center. The partition is removable, but not easily (it’s rather rusted). Do you think I should go ahead to put in the effort and remove it? Or will he be fine standing on just one side? I’m at least glad that the heat wave (s) in new england are starting to cool down, but I will take the suggestion to bring ice, just in case! I’m also getting some electrolyte paste to administer as well.

    Besides that, I’ve also read that you should have papers on hand in case you are pulled over. My horse isn’t registered, but we have a bill of sale and coggins. Is that good enough? Or is this something I probably won’t have to worry about?

    Thanks!

    Each state has different laws about what is required. Usually a health certificate in addition to coggins, but some do brand inspections and more. Just call the barn you’re going to in VT and ask. They’ll probably know.

    There are plenty of trailers going up and down the highway with only one horse on the driver side so I wouldn’t worry about that at all. If it is a full length partition that kind of sucks, but it’s been sucking all along, so I wouldn’t change things up now. Also if you remove it, unless you have a full length butt bar, you will be relying on the ramp to act as a butt bar/ramp, and that is not something I would be excited about with an older trailer.

    What you should invest in is some gastrogard, starting about 48 to 72 hours before you haul (the tube is a 4 day dose) and you may want to see if something like horse quencher will get him to drink. Most horses I have hauled are uninterested in drinking on the road and I have learned to not worry about it. If they drink when they get there, it’s all good. But I like to get some water in them before they load up, so a wet alfalfa cube slop, if they will eat it or a bucket of water with horse quencher is my typical plan. If he is out on pasture that has a lot of dew/water all night, don’t worry as much if he doesn’t drink before, because watery grass all night long is great for a day of hauling

    Looks like VT requires a health certificate. https://agriculture.vermont.gov/sites/agriculture/files/documents/Animal_Health/FAQ%20for%20horses%20moving%20into%20and%20within%20Vermont%20April%202018.pdf

    Put the ice in deep sawdust or shavings, so he is not standing on the slippery ice cubes. Probably 2 of the 20# bags, under his front and hind leg areas while standing, is enough. One bag in front, one from flanks on back to the rear end. Clean out that wet bedding as soon as possible after arriving, it is amazing how fast it will mold!! We have hauled in blazing sunshine, over 100* with horses on iced bedding. They are comfortable, arrive in good shape, despite heat, travel delays, traffic slowdowns.

    I am not in the string-tie group. All of ours “tie hard and fast” so they are always where I leave them. A loose horse can be a disaster in a trailer. Tie horse long enough that he can raise his head for balance if needed, not break loose. Use a quick release knot so it can be untied easily.

    I would plan on 2 hours of travel, then a rest stop. Offer drinks, an apple in pieces, see if he will pee while trailer is stopped. Stop should be at least 15-20 minutes so he can settle a bit. Horse is working to keep his balance all the time trailer is moving. They can get real leg weary. Think how you would manage a 6 hour trip on a bus or train, standing the entire time! With rest breaks, you may want to leave earlier, because they will add to travel time. We don’t see as many cars on the roads at 5AM! With horse not used to long trips, it will be easier on him with a couple rest breaks.

    Question: Does his divider go all the way to the floor? Half divider is better, allowing him to spread his legs wider for balance. Highway travel may have wind from trucks hitting the trailer unexpectedly, knocking horse around if he can’t spread out his legs. Perhaps you could have a full divider shortened before you go at a local welding shop, if your Dad doesn’t want to do it. My husband has shortened dividers in trailers we bought. Check edges for rough spots after, then cover with duct tape or file smooth to protect the horse. I bet the shop can loosen the rust holding those divider pins in place at the same time! Ha ha

    Take some “home hay” to transition to new hay at the new barn. Couple bales should be plenty. Those can probably be inside the trailer, tied in place. Cover them if pee can splash on them at rest stops. We haul water in some large bottles, easy to give drinks at the trailer. Practice loading, him standing in the trailer ahead of time. Drinking from a pan or small bucket while in trailer. Go out early to practice load him in the dark too. You don’t want a delayed start time because he is surprised or does not understand all these changes!

    Go over the trailer, check tires and spare for air pressure, cracked sidewalls. Have a lug wrench that fits the nuts, a jack or trailer-aid to lift the trailer for tire changes. Grease the ball hitch for working lights, then make sure bulbs are good. Get the wheels greased, brakes working, so they don’t cause problems. Has trailer floor been checked for rot? Lift any mats, back door floor edges, corners and edges of floors are the usual bad spots for rot. Not sure how often or recently trailer has been in use, or if servicing is done regularly. As a friend, i am telling you to check everything because you can’t believe folks you borrow from! Their idea of care was sure different than ours was! Breaking down on the road is a miserable place to be with a horse.

    You may be an experienced hauler, horse too, but practice like you will be doing things, never hurts. Same with the trailer. Perhaps it is perfect, but checking things over (or having a professional do it) gives you peace-of-mind enroute.

    Last advice is to let him stand in the trailer after arriving for a little while. You can get buckets and hay in his stall. Perhaps unload your tack and put it in the barn. He is benefitting from not moving, might pee for you and learning that arriving does NOT mean instant unloading! Always nice to have a patient horse waiting in the trailer until you can get back to him!

    You will need a current Coggins test result and a health certificate from your Vet showing where he came from and new destination. Coggins might take time, I would have it done immediately if you don’t have a six month one. States vary, some are OK with a 12 month, others require a test within 6 months.

    Best of luck on your trip.

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    Thank you thank you thank you everyone! I’ve got my current coggins (done last month), I’ll bring a copy of the bill of sale just in case. I’m definitely bringing a bale from home with me, and my horse is not prone to stomach issues (thank goodness). The hay cubes are a good idea. He’s a bit chubby but a day of them won’t make him any fatter.
    Unfortunately, the trailer has a divider going all the way to the floor, so he can’t really spread his legs out very much. But the trailer is a straight load, and with the partition and the wall, he’s got support on both sides of him.
    My main issue now is figuring out whether to keep his head loose, tie it loosely, or tie it tightly. I’m leaning more towards fully loose because he likes to be able to move his head, and it should help him keep his balance even more. But he tends to nibble a little bit when bored, and I don’t really want the cushion on the other chest bar to be ruined by the end. So what do you think? Tie or no tie?

    In certain parts of the country, 6hr hauls are practically the norm. Your horse will be fine!

    I don’t think you need to balance the load; having objects in the other stall might end up being more hazardous than helpful if they aren’t fully secured. I have never had a problem with a single horse in the left side of a straight load.

    As for tying, I like to tie lose enough that they can reach hay (or water) and lower their head a bit, but not so loose they can get tangled or get a leg through the rope.

    I like to stop every 3-4 hrs and give the horse a break, usually at the same time as I’m getting gas. That means after filling up the tank, I pull the trailer somewhere I can park and shut the engine off for about 15-20 minutes. Offer (or refill) water, refill hay if needed, pick up manure if you can safely do so. I don’t unload- way too risky in my opinion. But I will untie their head if possible so they can stretch their neck and clear their airway.

    As for keeping cool, I’ve never tried the ice trick, but have considered it. I just worry about the floor getting slippery. Battery powered fans have come a long way and it’s quite possible to purchase one affordably that can move air for 6 hours.

    Good luck!

    I recently hauled six hours. Start as early as you can to avoid the heat and traffic. It always takes me longer than expected. Always. I like to hose my horse off to help keep him cool in extreme heat. A vet recently told me that most injuries occur near the coronet, so he recommended bell boots at the very least.

    I would never haul a horse untied in a straight/ slant load type trailer. They can turn their heads pretty far and things can go very wrong. If he likes to move his head just don’t tie him too short. I would not haul other items in the trailer with him as the jostling and bouncing can dislodge them.

    Can you move the divider over to give him more room? My first trailer was a 2 horse straight load with a divider that went to the floor. I had it modified so it was a partial divider that I could move and my horse could spread out when hauled alone.

    Okay thank you everyone! I think that settles it, he will be tied, but loosely. Thank you for all your help!

    Sounds as if you are well organised.
    If you can get the partition out then your guy can spread out or stand on an angle. I have a stock trailer and most horses stand at an angle, resting their but against the far wall. Our pony can actually fit sideways and that is how he stands.

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    Perhaps you can remove the rear pins of divider, swing the back end to one side to allow horse leg room for spreading out. Then tie divider end in place at the side. Or even totally remove the divider, to allow horse enough leg room.

    The issue with no leg room, is that horse is top-heavy. Think of a folded step-ladder. It won’t stand alone while folded, without leaning on something. Yet once the legs are fully open, the ladder stands fine! Same with the horse, only he is unwilling to trust the wall or divider to hold him up. Without a wider base of support under his body, he can feel like he will fall over the divider. Leaning into the wall can throw the trailer balance off because that weight is so high. This imbalance can lead horse to kicking and fighting to try spreading his legs. With high weight, driver has to be more careful on turns, ramps, to not throw horse around. It is a lot different than pulling dead weight, low weight. Wind slaps from trucks passing add to the issue by suprising horse. His high weight can throw horse around, when jerked or bounced on bad roads, without room to spread his legs out.

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    I’ll offer a different opinion:

    While I agree a divider that goes to the floor can be problematic for balance, changing up a familiar trailer before a longer than usual haul is equally problematic.

    If the horse is used to the divider, just leave it be. It will likely be more stressful for your horse to have to learn how to rebalance himself. While many horses do better tied in an open box, other horses really like the security of dividers. A road trip is not the time to experiment with what your horse prefers.

    Six hours on the highway is not that long. Growing up on the east coast I would have thought it was long… but then I moved places where people drive that far one way for a single lesson or schooling show.

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    I agree with leaving the divider in. And depending what the temps are forecasted at, I might leave earlier.
    Also, has your dad hauled horses before? You drive differently then when you are pulling non-living objects. Generally you drive even more defensively to give the horse the best ride (like watching for people to pull in front of you and watching lights ahead to see if they are going to change) and braking and turning more carefully.

    Regarding ulcergard, it’s less about a horse who is ulcer prone and more about recent research on the the stress of hauling. Turns out it’s really really stressful and physically exhausting, much more so than we ever thought. And stress plays a huge part in ulcer development. So your happy horse can step on a trailer just fine and step off 6 hours later with the beginnings of ulcers. If you add to that scenario, moving to a new place, a new herd… Well, $38 for a tube seems like pretty cheap insurance.

    In my own experience, I have an extremely level headed, laid back Fjord who travels a lot and in pretty comfy digs. He still lost a lot of weight every time we traveled. I put that down to our sport, which is physically demanding. And yet when I wised up and added the ulcergard protocol, he stopped dropping weight. Hmmm, some lessons come late, but better late than never!

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    Around here, 6 hours is about how long I go before I need to stop for fuel. I just finished a 3, 17 hours hauls.

    Generally, I haul my horse loose in a box stall. I don’t wrap or use shipping boots. I bed with big flake shaving to keep the dust down. Every window and vet open on hot days. Drop downs have bars and screens. Vents opened to pull air from the windows up and out with the most forward vet open to push air down and in.

    In both of the recent hauls, slant load trailers, hay hung and water offered at fuel stops. That is it.

    As Texarkana said, I am one of those who will run 2-6 hours to school or lesson.