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Training Collars

I think that’s a big overstatement.

My dogs were never feather conditioned and every one of them will retrieve.

I also don’t think it’s necessary to raise a ‘bird dog’ to only be a bird dog. The non-retriever I described above has more titles than almost any other dog I know. Adding a MH onto the list is pretty impressive.

It’s great if you don’t want to use an e-collar, but I think your bias is showing. If you don’t think they are inhumane, why do you think they are a “quick fix?” Punishment is not the same as negative reinforcement. If the collar will teach the command faster, what is the problem? A lot of people prefer a collar because they can be very specific with training, like using spurs rather than thumping with a boot.

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You bet I’m biased. As I stated above, for every 1 person who knows how to use the collar as a precision training tool, there are 5+ using it to try and cover up poor preparation training/bad handling/inflicting pain on a dog/etc.

NAVDHA and NSTRA are both chock full of guys with the 2-3 ecollar set ups on the dogs. That is not a partner, that is a robot.

Just like with spurs - for every 1 person who has a leg educated to use it, there are 5+ people who should not have them on because they didn’t do their homework. If you’re thumping a horse (or mishandling a dog) you shouldn’t get a precision tool as a “reward” for your crappy training.

So I am 100% in the camp that if you do the right things with the dog, you won’t have a need for an e-collar - ever.

EDIT: And some dogs are feather averse and others don’t seem to have any problem with it. I bet your breeder had those puppies on birds to evaluate them before they ever went home, so they were likely lightly conditioned before you got them. Our dogs are on birds from day 1, even if they aren’t fully retrieving yet. We want them to put them in their mouths and run around with them. The only time the girls will get iffy about retrieving is if a bird is just gutted on the shot - it brings out too much of the “YUCK!” factor in them - but again, they will bring it back, just without the gusto.

Ehh there are many ways to abuse a dog. I think the cruelest thing I ever saw was a handler pick up an adult dog by the skin on her back and move her back when she broke. No collar necessary.

And then my own dog who found the trainer too loud in his correction. So, didn’t even need to touch the dog to over do it.

So…I don’t ever think you can use words like “always” or “never” with kids or animals.

Back to the OP - my concern in using a collar to for impulse control is that it really has to be done with commands and supervision. You need to actually train them to do or not do something. So you’ll have to think about what makes sense for the likely scenarios. I don’t really have high expectations for impulse control when unsupervised. If they need to be under great control, I need to be watching them.

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I’m in big agreement with everything you’ve stated in your previous responses.

No part of me wants to use the training collar as a quick fix and frankly, I don’t think they work that way. I want to implement it into her training program. She’s a puppy and she was very, very shy and timid when I first brought her home. She’ll still barely approach my boyfriend. If you raise your voice ever so slightly, her body language changes. Rather than have to shout her name (I’m a very quiet person, my voice doesn’t travel well) I’d like to utilize the vib, almost like how we use a half halt sometimes.

This sounds like a dog who should NOT wear an e collar. You have timid dog, and you want to use stim (ie, inflict pain).

With that, I’m out. Pain based training has NO place in my repertiore. To each their own, I guess?

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Since when is a vibration painful? And who are you to insinuate I would ever cause any of my animals pain. Good grief.

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Stim is the E portion not the vib portion. Also, the dog is TIMID. Work on building confidence, to where you don’t need to scream her name which shuts her down.

There are huge holes in her training, of which a collar will fix or assist with zero.

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You very obviously don’t understand the concept of using a training/e collar & have no desire to learn correctly.
So probably a good thing you leave the conversation l.

You have no clue on how to use one if you’d put it on a timid dog who is new to the family.

E collar stims hurt. That’s literally how they work - anyone who says they dont can wear one and ill have the remote. You keep turning the value up until you get “a response”. That response is pain based.

OP has not done the homework with this dog - if it were mine, it would go back on a check cord for a good while. The dog is a puppy, is timid, and is a new member of the family/pack.

It’s equivalent to “I haven’t done enough training (or, i dont know how to train) with this young horse - let me get out the draw reins so I can fix the problem.” What?

I will also say that you should use caution with the stim setting on a timid dog. But I disagree that stim collars “hurt”. On low settings they literally feel like the dog is being tapped on the back. When you start using one you are supposed to put it on the lowest possible setting, and turn up only until your dog can feel it.

It’s actually kind of funny to watch this happen. My youngest dog (12 months now) turned around like “huh?” and then turned back to what he was doing, then I "tapped’ him again and exactly the same thing again - he turned around to see what touched him. At this low setting, though, it’s nearly useless on that dog. He can feel it but it’s not even enough to be annoying. But he sounds like the opposite of the OPs dog; I think I could beat him with a 2x4 and he’d bounce right back “thanks, may I have another?”

None of my dogs are sensitive, but my oldest dog is more so; and he finds the vibrate command to be more “scary” if you can use the word scared. He would prefer the stim to the vibrate, I’d say.

The way an e-collar is most often used as a training collar is as negative reinforcement – if you call the dog to recall, and it doesn’t respond, you apply pressure (stim, vibrate, whatever works for that dog) until it choose to respond to the command, and then you take it off when they do (R-). So - for my dogs when off leash, if I call them (usually with a whistle) and they don’t turn to me, I would apply stim. As soon as they do, I stop. So long as they keep coming back to me - I don’t touch it again, and then they are rewarded with positive reinforcement when they get back to me. So it’s a combination of R- and R+.

A perimeter collar is the opposite – if the dog approaches the perimeter it is warned, if it touches the perimeter it receives a shock. It’s P+ Positive Punishment. People who shock a dog for doing the wrong thing are using P+. People think of that as “mean” and a training “shortcut” but it doesn’t mean it doesn’t work - and sometimes can be a fast and effective way to teach them something. E.g. my youngest dog has received a few significant e-smacks for lunging at/antagonizing my horses. Even though there is a fence, this is dangerous behavior and absolutely not tolerated. (And, of course, I tried saying “no” and all of the usual things which were ignored.)

So @Live_Wire - you will have to think about the scenarios that make sense for your dog. What is the collar going to be used for, and how does it help you?

If you want to use it as a communication device – e.g. to call your dog, you could use the beeper or vibrate setting, and reward for attention (eye contact, for example). I’m still not sure how I would suggest using it to reduce prey drive (e.g. killing animals). That’s tricky; it’s a combination of commands and would need excellent timing, but especially because the dog is timid. Mistiming or overcorrecting might create new problems.

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Wow, there are some really strong feelings on e collars! I have put my collar on my wrist and played around with it even before I used it on my dog. The vibrate honestly just feels like my cell phone on vibrate. The Educator has 100 settings, which is why I really liked it, and it was recommended to me by other dog trainers. Any setting under 25 you can barely (and I mean barely) even feel. Its a tickle, like a Dr. Ho machine. I even put it up to 50 and could just feel it. Its not a shock by any means. My very focused dog can feel it on 20, and that’s all thats really needed. Sometimes I need to turn it up to 35, but that is the highest I have ever had to use. I use it to just break her attention and after a week of use, she totally understood it, comes when called (or at least stops in her tracks) and I only need to call her once, if she doesn’t respond, I use the vibrate now, and she comes running right back.

In my case, my dog gets so focused on chasing anything that moves, including birds, which we get a lot of - those killdeer love to annoy my pup when they have chicks and fly around to distract her. I would much rather use the e collar to break that attention before she gets hit by a car on the road chasing said animal, or causing a big accident and injury to someone else. I have tried treats and squeaky toys first, and neither worked as she is not food motivated and she couldn’t be bothered with toys. I looked into invisible fencing as well, but our property is 600ft long and the cost was $3000 for that. I thought I would try the e collar first and it has worked really well for us and her. The only thing is, she must be supervised, unlike an invisible fence and you always have a bulky controller in your pocket.

I agree a dog should be a dog and have fun! I have no problem when she chases (she would never harm anything when/if she gets a hold of it, its just not in the breed) animals in the back of the property. She loves it and I enjoy watching her have fun.

Edited to add: I’m not a great dog trainer nor do I pretend to be one. My dog is far from perfectly trained (she is perfect, I am not) as she is mainly on our farm and not used to leashed walks, seeing other dogs or people and I don’t work on commands nearly as often as I should, but I do try my best! She has also been the most difficult dog I’ve ever owned, I’m learning along the way.

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My only experience with a training collar was to “snake-proof” one of my young American Water Spaniels. It was done by a professional, in my presence, at a state-sponsored Fish & Wildlife expo. The live, de-fanged snake used to elicit a response from the dog was huge!

My dog responded to the lowest setting, and frankly I was relieved - rattlesnakes, copperheads, and even coral snakes are a hazard here - to have put him through the training. When the rattlesnake vaccine came on the market, I had another dog receive that, have a bad reaction with long-lasting negative effects, and I was sorry that I hadn’t had him snake-proofed instead.

I’d rather my dog have one memorable experience with an e-collar and a de-fanged snake, then blunder into a life-threatening encounter with the real thing.

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I don’t have hunting dogs, so I can’t speak to the e-collar use for hunting.

I do have herding dogs, and I would never, ever use an e-collar with a herding dog…although some people do.

I much prefer Kim Brophey’s approach with herding breeds: she approaches them with the Mr. Rodgers mindset: explain what you want in a neutral tone (as if you were talking to a little kid). And explain to the dog why you need the dog to stop or change a certain behavior.

At first I thought this is kind of crazy, but I tried it, and I was shocked at how well it worked…yes you may have to repeat the Mr. Rogers approach a few times especially with an ingrained habit (and Aussies can be incredibly stubborn) but speaking to them as intelligent small beings really works.

Herding dogs like Aussies and BC’s really respond to the “why” they need to do this or that.

I don’t care how anyone chooses to train, but there is no reason you can’t use an e-collar to do this same thing. People have an aversion to using them for some reason but I don’t understand it. And especially horse people, who use negative reinforcement as the primary way to communicate with their horses.

I didn’t do a great job training with an e-collar because I used it almost exclusively for off leash recall. So my dogs have layered the command/response with recall – if I use the stim, they take it to mean “come back to mom.”

But I have a friend who does a lot of other things with her dogs, and she uses the collar to mean “no not that behavior”. When paired with a clicker for “yes, that behavior” (and/or paired with a voice command) - it is an incredible tool for shaping behavior very quickly, whether 1 foot away or 30 feet away (or more).

My guess with the “explain in neutral tone” is not really about the words coming out of your mouth, but the neutral tone not adding extraneous actions that might be perceived as a command. I have another friend who went from Shelties to a BC for agility and she was stunned. She thought her Shelties were smart, but her BCs made her realize that if she gave an incorrect command, even once, she might have to untrain a learned behavior. She could almost just think the command, because they read her body language so well that she had to be very careful not to mix signals.

I suppose in that case, an e-collar might be too difficult to get the timing 100% right, and a mistake would just mean retraining.

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