Training horse to stand better for farrier

My 12 year old has always been barefoot until about 12 weeks ago when he was diagnosed by xray with thin soles and vet recommended front shoes. He’s sound now with the shoes.

He’s never been great at standing quietly for his trims, but we got by and my farrier could trim him quickly. He tends to “sit back” and pull his front feet away. Shoeing him is very difficult because of this and I think I have lost my long term farrier because he is annoying to shoe.

I have been working with him to improve over the past 12 weeks but I do not feel that good progress is being made.

I’ve tried:

Making him leg yield around me in a few circles the second he pulls his foot away.

Rewarding him for holding his foot up by offering him a treat after he’s held his foot up for a bit and not pulled away. Try to gradually extend how long he holds his feet up.

Poking him in the stomach with the dull handle of the hoof pick when I feel him start to sit back.

Would really appreciate any training advice you may have. I’ll also ask the vet if there could be a pain reason for this behavior. I have tried putting him in a soft ride boot on the opposite leg to see if it helped, but no difference observed.

Ask your vet about sedation. Try it for 3/4 cycles & see if you can push past this. It sounds like an unsafe situation & there’s no harm in better living through chemistry, imo.

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My mare was difficult for the farrier for the first ~2 years I had her. While she’d pick up her feet, she didn’t like to hold them and would try to snatch them back. If she couldn’t snatch it, she’d either sit back or rush forward, through and over anything in her way.

Her behavior improved with more consistent farrier work (I was lucky to see the previous one every 5 months :upside_down_face:) and the use of dormosedan gel. Before any of that though, I made sure she was fine with me picking up her feet since she was most comfortable with me. She’d let me pick up, hold, and stretch all four. I practiced pounding on her sole with a hoofpick and putting her hoof between my legs.

But the dorm really helped! It made her drowsy enough she didn’t fight the entire process. Within two trims I was able to lower the dosage and she was off it entirely within several months. In less than 8 months she went from trying to climb a fence to quietly standing in the cross-ties. She was shod for the first time last spring and the dorm had to make a minor reappearance because she wasn’t a fan. She was then gradually weaned off that again, and is once again easy for the farrier.

Depending on why your boy is acting up (discomfort in holding his legs, not used to holding up his legs for other people, feelings of insecurity, boredom, etc.) having him sedated for the farrier work might allow your boy to improve over time. If he has a pleasant (though drugged) experience, he is less likely to fight the next time, and it keeps compounding. If his behavior is due to pain, then he might also need Bute or something to address that before/after his appointment.

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Seconding (thirding) the better living through chemistry comments.

My horse was not a fan of standing still to be shod for the first ~year that I had him because he was three years old and just didn’t like standing still in general, and I couldn’t be there every time he was shod to bribe him to stay still like I did with the mounting block. We solved that problem by giving him a half-dose of dorm gel every time he had his feet done.

We stopped giving it to him after about a year and he was perfectly fine standing without any pharmaceutical assistance after that. He’s seven now and usually takes a nap in the crossties while he gets his pedicure.

A friend’s horse also got dorm for shoeing for a very long time due to what we can only assume was trauma from her previous living situation. She would sit back, kick out, whatever you can think of (one time she got loose, reared up, and smacked her head on the door frame of the barn aisle). The dorm a) allowed her to be shod safely and b) allowed her to learn that she could trust the people around her in that situation. They also spent time working on holding her feet up and pounding on them, etc., in between farrier visits. She still needs patience and a steady demeanor from the farrier because she’s a generally nervous horse, but she doesn’t need the dorm anymore to have her feet done.

Better a bit of dorm and properly done feet than a panicked horse and/or injured human(s), imo.

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The dorm gel works GREAT on horses like this, I almost lost a farrier because of a mare that sounds exactly like your horse. She had a full dose once, a half dose the second time, and never needed it again.

However, if you have reservations, I’ve also had success with bute the morning of or the night before with some horses that I thought were painful and had a hard time standing three legged.

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I had one pony that was great to trim but did not like shoes being nailed on.

As others mentioned, we used Dorm gel and it worked wonders for him. But one thing that my farrier read in a magazine was using Vaseline on the nails before they were hammered in. LIFE CHANGER! This worked wonders for my guy and he never pulled back ever again while shoeing. We struggled for a couple of years with Dorm gel and twitching, but it was such an easy and simple fix for my guy. He was super sensitive to the nails for some reason (my farrier even tried different types of nails and nothing else worked besides the Vaseline).

Just a thought!

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She does it with you, too, or just the farrier?

If you aren’t spry enough to hop along with her, I’d one legged hobble her in an open area and let her work it out that once it’s in your “possession”, she can NOT have it back. Lots of treats and good girls, lots of breaks.

Bonus of hobble training is that if she gets caught up in something, she’s more likely to think it through than panic and seriously injure herself.

If she still is pulling back after attempting to train it out, I’m all for better living through chemistry - just to keep the farrier safe. But I do think people squeal at the thought of hobbling, when really it’s one of the most valuable things you can teach a horse. Particularly a one legged hobble - there’s not much that can go wrong (in comparison to “actual” standard hobbles or a side line hobble), as long as you’re in an open area where they can have their little snit fit, hop around for 4 steps, and give up.

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It’s usually a pain issue. Somewhere. Good luck.

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THIS

My shoer carries dormosedan & has permission from clients to sedate if needed.
I’d rather a drowsy horse than a damaged shoer.
The job has enough inherent danger without adding fractious horses!

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This is a good shout.

First, I would consider pain, and a “Bute trial” of sorts is worth a try, IMO.

Otherwise, I’d do like many suggested (if it’s not pain related) and use dorm gel. Decrease the dosage over time and see what happens.

I know this isn’t your issue, OP, but my young horse was a bit difficult for the farrier and would pull away his hooves or lean. He was always fine with me holding them, picking them, rasping them, or whatever else so it was hard for me to duplicate the problem. I switched farriers, and the problems went away. The old farrier wasn’t terrible. I wasn’t a huge fan, but he was far from the worst, but for some reason my horse was just not into him. Maybe he sensed it from me, I don’t know. I’m happy with my switch though, for a variety of reasons.

Horses :woman_shrugging:t3:

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This would be my first thought as well, with a thin-soled horse. Cheaper and safer, too, IMO.

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Agreed. My guy with bad stifles had a tough time having his front feet shod and putting all weight on his hind. I tend to think pain or physical issue before behavioral and rule that out first.

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I’m working on this with my 6 year old WB right now - he’s not been great for his hind feet with a new farrier the last year or so. I pulled his hind shoes for the winter but won’t have them put back on until we solve this issue.

We did dorm but it made him a little weird and he’d always urinate during the appointment, which made him wiggle around a lot. I now do a small IM injection of dorm and ?? (torb maybe) from the vet.

My horse is very “snatchy” with the left hind but can also be a bit quick with the right hind when he’s tense. I bought a cheap hoof jack and rasp to use during the training. I tried clicker training to pick up the foot and then extended the time to hold it up, but he just got faster and faster with the lift and stayed tense. What’s been working and is leading to incremental improvements is asking him to lift the heel but keep the toe grounded and relaxed. Then I’ll lift the hoof and if he jerks it up, let go and start over with the hoof grounded. We can now get it up and into the hoof jack and I’ll practice rasping, etc. Every time he lifts or gets tense, I just stop and wait for him to relax, but he doesn’t get to put the hoof down until I say OK. Then he gets a treat. I start with really small progress and duration and gradually add on. I realized last week he was anticipating me shifting my leg before I let go of the hoof (I use my thigh to hold the leg back and on the hoof jack), so I’ve started adding a little bit of wiggle of my body and then rewarding when he stays relaxed.

If the horse is hopping backwards, I have found putting them in a corner or up against a wall can help.

Another vote for dorm. My mare was an absolute nightmare to shoe she’d sit back and try to walk around. We fought with her for several months but when she had to get hinds put on in the spring we started using dorm. We pulled her hinds for the winter 2 months ago and therefore stopped using dorm and she is now a statue for shoeing on fronts and trims in the back. She also pulled a shoe twice and stood perfectly for those getting put back on.

Does your horse stand quietly when you are grooming and tacking up? When you have a hoof in your hand does the horse grab it from you and put it down on the floor? Have you evaluated your horse for pain when you pick a hoof up? If your horse does something that you don’t like, do you use negative feedback, e.g. popping them on the belly with a hoof pick, hitting them, or yanking on the lead rope and yelling? Do you use sedative drugs? Does your farrier rush through the shoeing in hopes of avoiding problematic behavior?

I would not sedate a horse. They need to balance on 3 legs. You have not trained them to stand quietly with a hoof off the ground. A farrier who rushes through a shoeing can create real problems such as incorrect breakover, misshapen hoofs, and imbalance. They should be able to give you some advice or assistance.

If you want your horse to stand quietly you need to train them to do that. You want to substitute a desirable behavior for an undesirable behavior. Horses do not have a concept of right and wrong. They have a 3-second attention span and live in the moment. They get confused and overwhelmed if you work too fast. They respond to your cue – the question – with an answer. They give you what they think you want. It could be a guess if you are working on a new skill. Repeating the same cue will get a different guess until he figures out what works. Pick a hoof up. Put it back down before the horse grabs it from your hand and slams it down, or tries to kick. Reward what you want – “good boy,” stroking, a treat. Repetitions are important. Always stop at a good point. Do things exactly the same way every time you are with them. If you get a string of desirable responses, quit while you are ahead. Don’t try to extend the time the hoof is off the floor. It will come as you work each day. And don’t spend a half-hour working on this. A few minutes is enough. Then move on to something you know they can do without a problem.

I watched a retired senior citizen take up shoeing in order to prevent or cure lameness. The BO pestered me into trying him, and I was pissed off that I did. He charged $55 to replace the first shoe that fell off after 2 weeks. I apologized to my regular farrier, and she came a few days later to reshoe. The first problem this guy had was that he only used one method of shoeing on every horse. He used 2 hoof stands for everything, could not hold a hoof while he rasped, trimmed, or nailed a shoe. He couldn’t get close enough to the horse, so he pulled the leg too far away from the body which was uncomfortable. No wonder a horse grabbed his leg back and slammed it on the ground. Months later I was grooming and tacking up my horse in a stall every time this guy showed up. He recognized the truck when it came down the driveway. He was afraid of him. Maybe he felt sorry for his friends.

When you are working with horses you need to reward what you want and ignore what you don’t want, unless it is dangerous – biting and kicking. Remember the 3 second rule. I worked with a teenager and her new young mustang mare who wouldn’t stand quietly in crossties. She kept asking the mare to move her butt one way or the other, stand straight, move forward or back. We spent about 15-20 minutes with her rewarding what she wanted – the horse standing quietly – and ignoring what she didn’t want while slowing down the pace. That weekend I saw a different horse standing quietly in the cross ties. That continued over a month to standing quietly in the arena, including when she walked away. When she heard I had to put my horse down I had a nice note from her about how much that helped.

Horses figure things out, but you have to be consistent in your behavior. Fractious horses are usually a product of inappropriate training. Mark Rashid’s mostrecent book Does your horse stand quietly when you are grooming and tacking up? When you have a hoof in your hand does the horse grab it from you and put it down on the floor? Have you evaluated your horse for pain when you pick a hoof up? If your horse does something that you don’t like, do you use negative feedback, e.g. popping them on the belly with a hoof pick, hitting them, or yanking on the lead rope and yelling? Do you use sedative drugs? Does your farrier rush through the shoeing in hopes of avoiding problematic behavior?

I would not sedate a horse. They need to balance on 3 legs. You have not trained them to stand quietly with a hoof off the ground. A farrier who rushes through a shoeing can create real problems such as incorrect breakover, misshapen hoofs, and imbalance. They should be able to give you some advice or assistance.

If you want your horse to stand quietly you need to train them to do that. You want to substitute a desirable behavior for an undesirable behavior. Horses do not have a concept of right and wrong. They have a 3-second attention span and live in the moment. They get confused and overwhelmed if you work too fast. They respond to your cue – the question – with an answer. They give you what they think you want. It could be a guess if you are working on a new skill. Repeating the same cue will get a different guess until he figures out what works. Pick a hoof up. Put it back down before the horse grabs it from your hand and slams it down, or tries to kick. Reward what you want – “good boy,” stroking, a treat. Repetitions are important. Always stop at a good point. Do things exactly the same way every time you are with them. If you get a string of desirable responses, quit while you are ahead. Don’t try to extend the time the hoof is off the floor. It will come as you work each day. And don’t spend a half-hour working on this. A few minutes is enough. Then move on to something you know they can do without a problem.

I watched a retired senior citizen take up shoeing in order to prevent or cure lameness. The BO pestered me into trying him, and I was pissed off that I did. He charged $55 to replace the first shoe that fell off after 2 weeks. I apologized to my regular farrier, and she came a few days later to reshoe. The first problem this guy had was that he only used one method of shoeing on every horse. He used 2 hoof stands for everything, could not hold a hoof while he rasped, trimmed, or nailed a shoe. He couldn’t get close enough to the horse, so he pulled the leg too far away from the body which was uncomfortable. No wonder a horse grabbed his leg back and slammed it on the ground. Months later I was grooming and tacking up my horse in a stall every time this guy showed up. He recognized the truck when it came down the driveway. He was afraid of him. Maybe he felt sorry for his friends.

When you are working with horses you need to reward what you want and ignore what you don’t want, unless it is dangerous – biting and kicking. Remember the 3 second rule. I worked with a teenager and her new young mustang mare who wouldn’t stand quietly in crossties. She kept asking the mare to move her butt one way or the other, stand straight, move forward or back. We spent about 15-20 minutes with her rewarding what she wanted – the horse standing quietly – and ignoring what she didn’t want while slowing down the pace. That weekend I saw a different horse standing quietly in the cross ties. That continued over a month to standing quietly in the arena, including when she walked away. When she heard I had to put my horse down I had a nice note from her about how much that helped.

Horses figure things out, but you have to be consistent in your behavior. Does your horse stand quietly when you are grooming and tacking up? When you have a hoof in your hand does the horse grab it from you and put it down on the floor? Have you evaluated your horse for pain when you pick a hoof up? If your horse does something that you don’t like, do you use negative feedback, e.g. popping them on the belly with a hoof pick, hitting them, or yanking on the lead rope and yelling?

I would not sedate a horse. They need to balance on 3 legs. You have not trained them to stand quietly with a hoof off the ground. A farrier who rushes through a shoeing can create real problems such as incorrect breakover, misshapen hoofs, and imbalance. They should be able to give you some advice or assistance.

If you want your horse to stand quietly you need to train them to do that. You want to substitute a desirable behavior for an undesirable behavior. Horses do not have a concept of right and wrong. They have a 3-second attention span and live in the moment. They get confused and overwhelmed if you work too fast. They respond to your cue – the question – with an answer. They give you what they think you want. It could be a guess if you are working on a new skill. Repeating the same cue will get a different guess until he figures out what works. Pick a hoof up. Put it back down before the horse grabs it from your hand and slams it down, or tries to kick. Reward what you want – “good boy,” stroking, a treat. Repetitions are important. Always stop at a good point. Do things exactly the same way every time you are with them. If you get a string of desirable responses, quit while you are ahead. Don’t try to extend the time the hoof is off the floor. It will come as you work each day. And don’t spend a half-hour working on this. A few minutes is enough. Then move on to something you know they can do without a problem.

I watched a retired senior citizen take up shoeing in order to prevent or cure lameness. The BO pestered me into trying him, and I was pissed off that I did. He charged $55 to replace the first shoe that fell off after 2 weeks. I apologized to my regular farrier, and she came a few days later to reshoe. The first problem this guy had was that he only used one method of shoeing on every horse. He used 2 hoof stands for everything, could not hold a hoof while he rasped, trimmed, or nailed a shoe. He couldn’t get close enough to the horse, so he pulled the leg too far away from the body which was uncomfortable. No wonder a horse grabbed his leg back and slammed it on the ground. Months later I was grooming and tacking up my horse in a stall every time this guy showed up. He recognized the truck when it came down the driveway. He was afraid of him. Maybe he felt sorry for his friends.

When you are working with horses you need to reward what you want and ignore what you don’t want, unless it is dangerous – biting and kicking. Remember the 3 second rule. I worked with a teenager and her new young mustang mare who wouldn’t stand quietly in crossties. She kept asking the mare to move her butt one way or the other, stand straight, move forward or back. We spent about 15-20 minutes with her rewarding what she wanted – the horse standing quietly – and ignoring what she didn’t want while slowing down the pace. That weekend I saw a different horse standing quietly in the cross ties. That continued over a month to standing quietly in the arena, including when she walked away. When she heard I had to put my horse down I had a nice note from her about how much that helped.

Horses figure things out, but you have to be consistent in your behavior. Mark Rashid’s latest book is terrific. A lot to think about.

Mark Rashid - For the Love of the Horse

I would start with trying to determine if this is caused by pain or fear (which likely was caused by pain at some point).

Having a farrier that is willing to work with a difficult horse makes this process easier. Be willing to pay more for someone willing to help you. Being under an uncooperative horse is dangerous.

I think both techniques (bute and better living thru chemistry) are worth trying.

Have you tried simple distraction with food? That works for some too. It is what my farrier wanted to try first with my young difficult horse and me sanding there with a tub of feed that she munched happily truly did the trick. Now she stands like an old pro (well, that was lots of years ago so she is an old pro now).

Talk with your farrier and discuss what they are comfortable with you trying, what they would suggest you trying.

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It sounds like this horse has probably been struggling with thin soles for a while, and it possibly is painful to hold a foot up for long enough to trim, much less shoe.
They vet only recommended front shoes - were the hind soles not thin as well?
Does he pull only his front feet out? Does he pull all four out after a certain amount of time?

I too would try better living through chemistry. Bute for farrier visit, plus a mild sedative if the farrier is okay with it (some will not work on them sedated).
But I would also consider shoeing the hinds. Or at least putting hoof boots on the hinds while the farrier is shoeing the fronts.

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Thin soles requiring shoes = inflammation. The vibration from pounding nails into the hoof wall is painful. This is an appropriate use of medicine as an aid to manners. Right now the farrier = pain. Give him some relief for a few cycles and he should get better.

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I haven’t read all of the above posts thoroughly, but in general I agree that some sedative and pain meds will help with the process. They will take the edge off and hopefully over time you can stop using them.

Personally, I would start with Ace rather than Dorm. I’ve used both and Dorm is great if you have a horse that really has difficulty behaving in a safe manner. But if you think you can get away with something lighter, Ace is the way to go.

I have a senior mare who has a lot of hock arthritis so she won’t pick up her hind feet without spasming/kicking - even for me, even when it’s obvious she’s trying to be good. So for farrier days, I give her a pain med the night before, a pain med an hour or so before the farrier arrives, and Ace (2 cc’s for a 900 lb mare) about 45 minutes before her turn. This allows her to relax enough that the farrier can safely do her hinds. I’m also very lucky that my farrier is very gentle and slow with her and holds her hind feet as low as possible to rasp - she doesn’t insist on my mare putting her foot on the stand.

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He became lame on both fronts in October. Not lame behind. Vet said front hooves felt like he’d been standing in water for a long time and he felt the wetness had caused the soles to compress/become thin. I was surprised because it had not been rained at all. But he had just been moved to a new turn out and I noticed he preferred to stand near his water trough where the ground was wet from the trough getting cleaned. His fronts were getting wet and hinds were dry.

We’ve made lots of changes to keep his soles drier (moving trough so there isnt a wet place for him to stand, keratex, limiting turn out when super wet from rain, soft ride boots immediately following diagnosis) plus added front shoes. He also is moving around a lot more in turn out and not standing in one spot. He’s totally sound again.

But, he has always been difficult to work with his feet since I got him 5 years ago. He was ok enough that I can pick his hooves and the Farrier could get him trimmed without too much of a hassle. But, he needs to be able to hold up longer for shoes.

He holds his hind feet up longer than the fronts, and doesn’t seem as determined to pull them away as he does the fronts.