Training Mounted Archery Horses?

Does anyone know anything about this?

Full Story:
One of my SO’s employees is very into Rennaissance Faire-ness. (I don’t even know what you call it.) He runs a club that goes to various fairs and re-enactments and gets hired out for events for sword work, etc. We recently visited him and his group at a local fair and I commented and how much I like their satchels. I could just attach it to a belt instead of carrying a purse or (as usual) trying to balance my wallet, phone, keys, and whatever else in my hand!

They said they would make me one! Great! For free! Wonderful! But I would still like to “donate” something to the club for their time/resources. So I tell SO to ask him at work the next week what an appropriate donation would be.

He insists on no donation. Instead, I can sit down and talk to him about how to train his horses for mounted archery. :eek: “But… I don’t do that,” I explained to SO. He said he knows, he explained that, and the reply was that I’m still more knowledgeable than they are. :sigh: Probably true.

To the Point:
Does anyone have any experience teaching horses for mounted archery? Or rather, how to explain to someone else how to do it?

My plan was to help him break down the pieces they need for a successful horse. 1) Must canter in a straight line unassisted, 2) Must accept the bow and arrow/being shot off of, etc. Then discuss how to train for those things through baby steps. I was also going to try to give them some hints/tricks like using different tack (or at least bridle/bit) for “canter in a straight line” training vs. regular riding.

Help!

You can probably find resources from the website of a. Local club or national org http://www.mountedarchery.org/) but I wouldn’t want that responsibility!

Somebody on here has actually done that, had a post in the last year here on OC. She was nervous about taking a clinic in it IIRC.

I have no idea but would imagine it would be basic desensitizing to the rider having upper body twisted to hold and aim holding the bow and staying in tne canter on a straight line. Maybe tolerate seeing the bow when held horizontally for a straight ahead shot and not reacting to the sound of the string release or arrow flight. Easier then teaching a gun hunt or cavalry reenactment horse to tolerate a gunshot.

Mounted archery is gaining ground in this area, with a state group running things. Affiliated groups doing training, clinics, competitions, in nearby states. Do a Facebook search of mounted archery, lots of things turn up to get help from.

I’ve seen it taught and performed in a list (like a jump chute)- takes steering out of the equation.

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Ahhh! The list definitely helps/makes sense. Probably still have to teach the horse to ignore the twist, but at least easier.

Thank you for the resources! Any additional ones would be a ton of help. I’ll search (ugh, our search feature!) for the old post.

My daughter is 11 and did a 1 day mounted archery clinic at her lesson barn. She loved it. The first part of the day was desensitizing the horse to the gear. They also worked on balance while holding things and riding with 1 hand. By the end she hit the target at a walk. More advanced riders could do a 2 day where they trotted and cantered.

I dont ride but am planning to do the next one with her. I dont see why she gets to have all the fun :slight_smile:

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findeight! That would be MMEEEE that did the mounted archery clinic and was so worried that I would be thought foolish due to may advanced age . . .but to OP question --yes --I have bow broke two horses. It’s is basic desensitizing --I think there’s a YouTube video, too. I started shooting at ground targets in my barn while the horses ate in their stalls… At first there was some angst and standing in a corner of the stall and shivering in fear --but food won out. Then I put my first horse into cross ties (actually not tied --if he panicked, he could pull them loose) and shot around him to the target --always mindful of his reaction --if he was laid back, all good. If he got tense, I shot until he was quiet and then stopped for a while and went back to it. When I could shoot over him, under him, beside him --I took the show outside to the round pen. He got to hang out in his tack while I target shot (on the ground.) Then I shot from the mounting block. Again, if he was reactive --I kept doing it until he relaxed, then stopped for a few minutes (relaxed = lip licking, deep breath, eye blinking, or quiet for a minute or two). Finally I got on him and (with my husband watching) shot into the dirt beside him --he was fine. I’d been shooting around him so much, he didn’t care t all. Second horse was a roping horse --from day one, the bow didn’t bother him. Oh, skipped a step --I rode horse with my bow kind of twirling it around and fake-shooting. I also rode with my quiver --feather arrows make a weird noise --but he was fine with everything.

Love the sport! I have no plans to compete, but at least 4-5 days a week, I take my horse out and practice on the range I’ve made for myself.

Maybe video will work:

https://www.dropbox.com/home/3%20videos%20copied%20on%20June%206%2C%202017?preview=IMG_4569.MOV.mov

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Foxglove is a wizard with horses. She could train one to square dance if she wanted to. It’s good to listen to somebody who has BTDT.

Wonders12, I reread your post and wanted to add a bit —while the horse should have a steady canter and maintain the canter, cantering in a straight line without use of reins isn’t exactly necessary as in mounted archer one (usually) shoots from a marked course set out by clear fences --such as plastic tape 8’ inside an arena fence. I personally use(d) ground poles laid end to end until I got to lazy to set them out and found out my horses stay straight anyway for the 330 yards needed to shoot 3-4 targets.

If I were doing it from scratch --first a rider who can ride hands free (canter in a circle on a lunge line while clapping, windmilling, twisting). Second, a horse that will pick up and maintain a gentle canter; then third, add the bow and desensitizing as I explained above.

Happy shooting!

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This is so helpful @Foxglove! Thank you, thank you, thank you!

OOo, this is a great idea, Foxglove!
I started training my Haflinger for mounted last year, but have been taking my time due to his age (he’s 25+) and my lack of time. Frankly, I doubt I needed to take my time with him as he’s never even batted an eye at the bow or the arrows or my shooting over, around, under or between his legs.

We’re currently trotting a bit and shooting. There’s no rush for us because I don’t plan on competing him. I would love to train my Lipizzan for this, as she is far easier to ride hands-free, but she’s too reactive and spooky.

I do target shoot a few times a week, especially now that I have a new bow that I have totally fallen in love with.

Eileen

So I’ve done this (and mounted riflery ) and step one is to make sure the people can shoot from the ground without endangering themselves and others. Seriously, if they can’t put the arrow in the target 9 out of 10 times at 15 yards, do not let them try while on a horse.

I’m going to assume you’ve already got a horse that is controllable from the seat and legs. If they need to touch the mouth to rate the horse, the horse is not far enough along in it’s training for this. I used my 3rd level dressage horse. Most of the other horses were either dressage trained, reiners or working cutting horses.

For the horses themselves, it’s a lot of desensitization. Bows make a noise, some worse than others. Arrows make a noise when they hit. Get the horse used to it on the ground first. I suggest you have the horses just hanging out behind the archers while they shoot. You want to stay at this stage until the horse is barely reacting when the arrow is released. This is very variable … my arab barely acknowledged something was happening but two of the quarter horses lost their minds the first few times they heard the bow.

Get the horse used to the rider twisting and moving all over the place in the saddle, first at the stand still, then walk, trot, canter, all without the rider touching the reins. They should be able to go up & down the gates with their seat & legs. A lot of horses want to speed up in a list … something about having a nice clear path defined. You need to be able to half halt them back to a steady canter without grabbing for the reins.

You should practice “accidentally” knocking the horse with the bow and equipment , again starting at a stand still. The horse should be listening to the legs, not shying sideways if the rider twists suddenly or if the horse gets hit on the shoulder with the bow. The list is often made up of ropes between stakes (think how they mark a course for eventers). It’s not pretty when a horse spooks sideways, goes through the ropes and is now tangled up in the list and being chased by the poles.

Next is mounted, stationary target practice. This is learning how to shoot from both sides of the horse and maneuvering your equipment. This is a lot more awkward than you’ll ever think it is until you try it. From there, you work your way up. Walking while shooting from both sides, trotting, etc. If the horse starts to wig out, step back and make sure it’s comfortable with the previous level.

I highly suggest the archers learn a right side pull. It’s a pita to have to get the arrow up & around the bow while cantering for a standard left side pull. If they’re looking at competition mounted archery down the line, they need to learn a thumb release or such. A mechanical release like what compound bow hunters use is a no go. There are no arrow rests on mounted archery bows, so that’s something they need to relearn if they’re traditional archers. Saluki bows are the gold standard for mounted work and they have a lot of information on their web site and a lot of pretty pretty bows to give you an idea about what’s appropriate.

It looks like the Mounted Archery main web site has some tips on getting your horses ready - http://mountedarchery.net/about-2-2/…ng-your-horse/

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AltersAreUs --your answer was much more thorough than mine --but it sounds like you are working at a much higher level of riding horse than I am --I’m using cow broke QH (2 of them) that have been roped off, shot off, and carried packs, and gone hunting and to rodeos (one horse was a pick up horse for bull riders… With them I kind of skipped a whole lot of steps you mentioned . . . I don’t depend on seat and legs as much as you since the horses respond well enough to voice to slow down or speed up and that way I don’t have to worry about accidentally bumping them with my legs and having them respond --having been roping horses, stuff hitting them accidentally isn’t such a big deal. The horses pick up a slow canter in the list, go down the line, and stop when asked. Thank you for reminding me that every horse doesn’t start out with the same set of training my boys did.

Not really higher, just a different set of skills. A horse that can rate via voice commands is just as good as one who rates off the seat … the key is not needing your hands to slow down.

The working cutting horses had no problem with people flinging themselves every which way in the saddle and the bow bouncing around on them. The trail horses and english horses, though, needed to learn it was okay and their riders weren’t falling off or going crazy.