Transitioning to barefoot

I got my Haffie gelding in November. When the new farrier came out in December, he said that Trig had great feet and could go barefoot. We pulled back shoes then, and front shoes in early February. I trail ride several times a week and he has no problems with the big rocks, creek crossings, bills — but on gravel, he is super ouchy. He grows a lot of sole so it a little flatfooted, especially in his toe area.

Farrier is coming Monday and I plan to be at the barn to talk to him about the next step. I’ve been trying Durasole on his feet, and I think it’s made him more sore.

How long should it take for a horse to get used to be barefoot? After a few months, is it time to give up?
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Get some hoof boots for the transition period.

How much gravel is in your daily ride?

I would definitely recommend hoof boots for the horses especially if doing a lot of trail riding over uneven, gravely or rocky ground.

durasole is my recommendation. And it won’t make your horse’s feet worse. It should be applied at least every other day. You can also hoof pack your horse’s feet with magic cushion ,

The gravel is along the driveway ---- we go down it to access the trails and when coming back. He has no problems crossing the low water bridges that are concrete. Whether I go out the front or the back, we have to go on some gravel. I do try and ride him on the side in the grass, but can’t always do it.

I have thought about boots — Scoot Boots — I think that’s the name – have been recommended by friends.

I have Durasole and have been using it the last week. The instructions say to put on enough to turn the sole/frog “dark” — does that just means light purplish or dark, deep purple?

I’ll talk with the farrier and see what he says. I really want to keep him barefoot if at all possible. I’ll keep using the Durasole and will check into getting boots if the farrier agrees. I just feel awful when Trig takes obviously painful steps on the gravel.

You will want to get some hoof Xrays, to see what horse has inside his hoof. Good Xray should show sole depth, any possible coffin bone rotation, that could be a source of his being ouchy on gravel.

A thin sole or flat footed horse, may not be able to go barefooted. Not enough protection of his coffin bone. It is unlikely such issues will allow horse to go bare for trail riding, he will end up sore or lame. Like you trying to run barefoot on a gravel road, it just hurts, not enough sole protection for your poor feet.

So having Xrays done could save you time in trying to transition to barefoot. Some horses just are not made to go bare, it is unkind, harmful, to keep trying “if his feet are not built right!”

I am not a boot person, see them laying by the trail after falling off. On all-day rides you would make almost no forward progress if you stopped to pick them up. This is all brand name boots, so I can’t help yout there. My horses are shod, have traction under them for all surfaces, ready to go anyplace, anytime, and they keep their shoes on pretty well.

Gravel is hard on even “great feet.” Put some boots on the boy, and problem solved. In my experience, properly fitting boots rarely come off. You might get more recommendations over on the Endurance/trail riding section.

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Hm. I pulled the front shoes on my gelding last week and he’s surprisingly good on gravel and our rocky driveway. So is friends mare. I can understand some sensitive steps here and there, but after a few months I’d be doing some thinking. X-rays are a possibility, but so are hoof boots. My peeve about hoof boots is that people get one boot in mind because they like that boot or friend’s liked that boot. It doesn’t matter. Get the boot with that fits your horse. I’d love Renegades, but they do not fit my horse’s hoof shape at this time. So a model from Equine Fusion it is. Still suits our purpose (preventing too much wear on our hard trails). If the boot fits, it’ll stay on.

Having good hoof quality is only one aspect of being barefoot. A horse with less concavity in their hoof may have trouble on gravel, no matter how good the hoof quality is.

Xrays are a good option so you know what you’re dealing with. Boots are another option to just keep your horse comfortable. I agree that the best boots are the ones that fit well.

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How high is up? How low is down? :wink:

The horse will tell you if they can do this or not. “Great feet” is a nice compliment what what does it REALLY mean? Nice shape? Good horn quality? Good sole conformation?

The “bottom line” is: how does the horse do in their normal circumstances? I’ve got a couple that do quite nicely retired in a pasture but when they were working needed shoes to be comfortable in most circumstances. Our former stallion had feet like flint and our farrier cussed regularly him for wearing out his rasps! :slight_smile: My current gelding, the production of that stallion and one of those two mares, needs shoes for most work we do or he wears too badly. My wife’s mare can do easy stuff around the farm but does not do well on hard surfaces.

If your horse can’t do what you ask of it then you have to do something to help it out. Maybe boots, but my experience with them is negative. Maybe Durasole, as my experience was positive where your’s was negative. Maybe shoes on only front or back. Or maybe only shoes during some times of the year. Or maybe shoes all round, all the time. Listen to the horse (not the farrier, me, anonymous web posters, authors, videographers, or any of that sort).

Good luck to you as you go forward.

G.

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I transitioned my horse from shoes to barefoot by using hoof wraps (casts) for two trim cycles. Then my trimmer used hoof armor on his hooves after a trim once she stopped putting the wraps on. I think we did that twice. By doing this, it allowed for his walls grow stronger. This way he was just on the sole of his foot. It’s been a full year of barefoot now. Oh, he’s an OTTB 😉

He May need shoes again at some point but I just wanted to give his feet a break and a chance to grow since he was 4 when I got him last year.

Thanks for the ideas and suggestions!

Trig is only ouchy on his front feet. He is flat footed, although since he’s been barefoot there is more concavity towards his heels. His walls are thick, and while the farrier does check him each time he comes, he hasn’t had to touch them — they wear perfectly.

The pastures are dirt studded with fist sized rocks. Lots of pasture — right now he’s with 2 other geldings 24/7 on 20 acres. Trails (a lovely 200+ acres of private trails) range from dirt to rock and everything inbetween. Soil is mostly clay, some sand. Outdoor arena which we occasionally use is sand.

All of his problems are on the gravel driveway which we just can’t do anything about.

I think I will try Scoot Boots, which have recommended by friends. They drain water, which is important because we do a lot of creek crossings and boots that held water would never work. I’ll keep using the Durasole to see if it makes a difference. But I do hope to talk to my farrier tomorrow if I can be there at the right time.

I agree with getting x-rays. Your horse could have had mild laminitic episodes which have set him back. X-rays are also very useful for the farrier to check and correct angles. In my experience, shoes can easily mask milder laminitis symptoms. I’d also potentially check and/or keep an eye out for IR, if laminiitis has occurred. Any laminitis episodes during the transitioning period will set your horse back, as it essentially flattens the sole.

A balanced nutrition is a huge part of transitioning a horse to barefoot, especially on horses that don’t genetically have much concavity to begin with. My horse, who also has wide and flat hooves (size 5 cavellos), went barefoot after a series of bad shoeing jobs. The first few years were a struggle, as he also had a few mild laminitic episodes that basically set us back another year (time it takes for a new hoof to grow out) in terms of gaining concavity, so we needed to sort out IR. But even on a good record, he was more sensitive to gravel. We only noticed a big change after properly evaluating and altering his diet. This horse now walks on gravel, cement etc with no problems, but this did take time.

I started learning more about nutrition and eventually had our hay tested and factored in high/low nutrients in our area. One thing I’ve learned is that Iron is relatively high in our area and although this doesn’t always appear in hay analysis, horses can get plenty elsewhere, plus every grain in my area has way too much iron in it without enough copper to balance it. Iron deficiency, on average, is rarely caused by nutrition and is more or less an indicator of a health issue. Iron has also been linked to issues with IR. I removed Iron and upped copper and Zinc (1 Cu:4 Zn - ratio), plus altered the other nutrients according to hay analysis and my farrier and I started noticing big differences in my horses hooves around the 6 month period. Additionally, after a year, my horse actually had concavity and his hooves were not wearing down as fast as they normally had. White line connection has been tight since then and we’ve had no issues since (3 years ago). If you don’t know much about nutrition, I always advocate for reading about it in sections, but I think the easiest/ fastest way you can balance your horse’s nutrition is through hay analysis and either having a equine nutritionist unaffiliated with feed companies to evaluate the diet or send the hay analysis to a company such as Horsetech or Mad Barn to formulate a custom supplement for you. It may be expensive at first, but you can look at the ingredients and amounts of vitamin/ minerals and find cheaper and similar alternatives down the road. The latter route does involve calculations on your part, but it is very rewarding to be able to have that knowledge in the long-run.

Also, do take into consideration the surfaces/ level of work your horse is doing. If he is riding on hard or very rocky surfaces for longer periods of time, then he will need something to help protect his soles, whether that be shoes or hoof boots. I’ve used the cavello simple hoof boots for my horse, although I know there are certainly more trail friendly designs out there. Personally, I was a bit limited as cavello was one of the only, if not few boots that would fit my horse’s hoof properly. I do know someone who uses scoot boots though and they would probably be my choice if not for the limitations. I see durasole has already been mentioned and that is also great to try. Another one that I had frequently used and built up for some sole protection is Venice turpentine. My farrier had also used this: https://hoofarmor.com/hoof-armor-order/

My gelding has been barefoot for about ten years and he still steps carefully on the gravel. I agree with the suggestion for x-rays but I also think that if he is fine, except for the short stretch of gravel, as long as there is nothing concerning in the x-rays, just let him take it easy over the gravel and don’t worry about shoes or boots. That’s what I do and everything’s fine. To toughen up the sole, my vet recommends painting iodine on the sole. I found that worked well.

The problem with boots is if you get studded ones, they’re slippery on hard surfaces and if you get ones without studs, they’re slippery on wet surfaces. If you are going to get boots, I highly recommend the Renegade boots. I used them for several years without any problems. The only time one came off was when I walked the horse through a sticky swamp to test the boots - one did get sucked off. I don’t use them often anymore because I don’t do much road work these days.

Since he has been barefoot, the farrier has not had to trim him at all? It would be the extremely rare horse that wears his feet so perfectly that the farrier doesn’t need to balance anything. In this case, I might wonder if the farrier can’t safely take any more off the foot because the horse is wearing his hoof more than he is growing.

It might appear that they are wearing “perfectly” except that the horse is “super ouchy”. I might reconsider shoes, but I would definitely at least put boots on him for a while and see how he does.

Also, OP, there is the option of you hand-walking him down the driveway, and putting a mounting block (or using a rock or whatever) to mount up after the gravel stretch is over (and get off before the driveway, on the way home). Though, I would still be in the camp of putting boots on.

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Any horse we get today should have x-rays.
In the total cost of a horse, that is so little and can tell you so much.
Best done when buying a horse, in the PPE, so as not to buy problems and be surprised later.

99% of our horses are barefoot, except if they are in training close to competing, or if they will be working in places they will have hard or gravelly ground we can’t avoid, like in the canyons.
The exception is the Cushing’s horse, that needs front feet protection.
We ride barefoot in the canyons except when working cattle, then you can’t take your time and choose your ground to walk on, have to go thru patches that would be hard on any barefoot horse’s hooves, not fair to the horse. Then we put shoes on them.

I know how you feel.
We had for many years a super nice horse that went barefoot fine every place, as most of ours did.
There was gravel for 20’ in front of the barn where we saddled.
We had to cross that gravel to get out of the barn.
Horses didn’t mind but that one horse, that walked over that like he had a broken leg.
Vet and us could not figure why, but we didn’t ride him across.
We led him trying to help him find the best place to get across.
We didn’t have boots in those days.
We added sand over a path from the barn out over it.
That finally helped him.
It hurts you to see a horse gimping, does it.

First to do when a horse is lame is get a professional’'s opinion, get a vet involved.

Farrier was out Monday, trimmed a little off Trig’s toes, rolled the the edges. He thunderbolt would be the perfect so!ution.

I know, it is odd that he can go three months and keep his feet in great shape, needing no work done. But he is an unusual horse!