Tree size

[Eventer_94]

Hello!
Im stumped as to how you determine what tree size you should “start” with when purchasing a saddle. I say “start” with, since obviously all brands will vary in exact fit. I’ve only ever bought saddles with adjustable gullets, so this whole tree thing is new to me.

I just got a new horse, an OTTB that is very, very green. I can tell that he has ALOT of bulking up to do, and already know his shape is going to change quite a lot with training.

my trainer has an ovation Palermo saddle that I put on him, and we decided that he will definitely need a MW gullet plate with it. I was going to purchase the same saddle, except in my own seat size, but I really would prefer a “traditional” saddle with quality leather. The ovation is really nice but I would much rather have leather that I know will last a long time.

would this mean I should look at saddles with medium wide trees? He is about 16.2 hh, and was roughly 1098 lbs when I taped his barrel. He is Not a “cat like” TB, and is very big boned, more like a WB. He doesn’t have much of a top line atm, so he will bulk up a lot in that area. A lady at the barn was selling a prestige jump saddle that was medium, and it fit tightly in his shoulder, towards the middle/lower part of the saddle.

so is there a way to know if they will be “x” tree size (or should be), or do you just keep buying saddle and hoping you can get them on trial or are able to resell them until you find one that works?

[Eventer_94]

I should note that I’m a nursing student, and therefor don’t have thousands laying around to get a custom fit brand new saddle, and am at the very max able to spend $1500-1800, and that’s really pushing it. Would really prefer $1200 or less. But not willing to get a cheappppp saddle if that makes sense. I want something that I can eventually resell without much issue, and that will last for a long time.

[preppyeq]

Each brand is different and even within a brand the sizing maybe different. The M. Toulouse I had in a medium was too wide for my horse but the MW Albion that I have fits perfectly. I looked at mediums, medium wides, and wides and found that some wides were too narrow and mediums were too wide even though they were all Albions. You will just have to test out saddles to see what fits best for you and your horse. I would suggest Albions based on your budget. They are comfy and they tend to fit a wide range of horses.

[mmeqcenter]

If you’ve always bought adjustable gullet saddles, why are you wanting a non-adjustable one now?

Yes, theoretically you would look for a MW tree, though you will find they all vary.
However, as he’s not muscled and you know he will bulk up, I’d perhaps get a wide tree, and pad it up for the time being. Or get another adjustable one…

[no.stirrups]

What you start with is a tracing. What measurements you take off the tracing will vary for different saddle makers, and sometimes even for saddles made by the same maker on different trees. Those measurements are just a start, but they will help you rule out saddles that definitely won’t fit. You still have to try it on to know for sure. It’s frustrating, but there are so many aspects to saddle fit that it isn’t possible for it to be more simple.

As far as accommodating growth, if there is a great deal of change anticipated you may be better off sticking with groundwork for a couple of months while the horse gains weight and condition before spending a lot of money. Keep in mind that any saddle on a spring steel tree is adjustable by a saddle fitter with a tree press so you don’t necessarily have to go back to square one if he bulks up after you get a saddle.

[jaybird660]

I also agree that a tracing is a good place to start. Fit goes beyond just tree size but also should include shape of the tree and panel and billet configuration. Enlist a fitter or consult or read online to find out more about that. We have some good articles on our site that explain fitting needs. Most TB’s will be a medium or medium wide but usually need more depth in the front third of the panel to clear the withers and have the saddle not collapse on the wither. Many size too narrow to accomplish this. If the horse is uphill or downhill also should be considered.

[SonnysMom]

Working with a good independent saddle fitter can be worth the money. Trust me it will save you money in the long run. They can let you know what shape tree he need- flat or curvy. A good one knows which brands/models are flat/curved and which ones run wide or narrow. My saddle fitter will work within my budget. We also have Rick’s Heritage Saddle nearby and she will look at their website for used selections and suggest a few for me to try. She also carries a range on her truck.
For Carson I had 3 on hand from Rick’s when she came plus I tried a few of hers. I bought a new Thornhill Germania from her and returned the other 3 to Rick’s. It may not be the saddle I use forever on Carson but it should last me awhile. He is an OTTB and needed weight and topline. The Germania is wool flocked so that gained me some flexibility when he puts on topline. She can also widen the saddle if necessary. It was around $1,500. Decent leather but not CWD by any stretch of the imagination. It is nice enough it should last a while.

Places like Rick’s Heritage, Trumball Mountain, Middleburg Tack Exchange all allow trials. But if you don’t have an idea of which saddles would likely be a good fit you could potentially waste a lot of money shipping saddles back and forth. Maybe a local independent fitter can help you with what is available locally or on her truck and if nothing works will look through inventory at one of the used places I listed with suggestions on what to try.
I already had a relationship with my independent saddle fitter so I sent her Carson pictures ahead of time and she made suggestions based on pictures. She then came out when I had a few in hand for a final selection and fitting.