I really, really appreciate all the tips, especially on working with older drafts. For those who want to know about ‘all hell’ read on
It is long!!
In all honesty, I don’t think he is safe to drive. Or more accurately, he is only safe when he is driven on a daily basis by an experienced, confident driver. Which was the plan when I acquired him a year ago, but isn’t possible due to life changes.
What is ‘all hell’? I actually don’t know, I haven’t let it happen under harness but it is always sitting there. He does Not rear. He kicks. If you know the signals that he gives, it can be nipped in the bud. The sequence is usually: relaxed, attentive ears and a soft eye when being harnessed, stands and steps off willingly, then a moment of ‘oh yeah, actually make me’ and then fine as long as things are varied. If they aren’t varied, i.e. terrain or obstacles or load, you can expect more moments of ‘make me’. The ‘make me’ moments are pinned ears, a threat to kick, and then a kick, and based on the behavior on the ground and on the lunge, that would probably escalate to a double barreled kick.
He drives by voice command, whips are a bad idea with him. They result in an attempt at a kick under harness and on the lunge line result in a snaking neck with pinned ears, and two memorable attempts at a charge (which is where the ‘all hell’ comment came from). He was very head shy when I got him, but with a fair bit of work that has been fixed.
On the plus side! He has an awesome halt and back, a ground eating walk, parade quality trot, and at liberty a balanced canter. He is responsive to the bit with a light and soft mouth, especially for a draft. He enjoys obstacle work but thinks circles to be stupid. He is a gorgeous, gorgeous physical example of the breed, but very hitchy in temperament, not a farm type at all.
On the ground, he wants to be dominant. I’ve taught him to respect my space, since I knew when I got him that he wasn’t safe on the ground. Treats are an absolute no because he immediately gets pushy. When I first got him an attempt to get him to move over would be meet with a kick. I seem to have cured that, but I’m always on watch for it. With other people he will be good for a day or two and then it starts to slide. Oddly, he is perfect for the farrier.
I tracked his breeder down, she said he was an orphan and bottle raised. Had I known that, I probably would have passed on him since that may be the foundation of his issues. I suspect a very late gelding.
The reason to think of working him under saddle is based on the fact that when he is in consistent work he is more polite with everyone, including the other horses. However, time constraints mean that I don’t always have someone to drive with. Though I do have someone to watch out for me if I am riding him. (my elderly dad is physically capable of that, but not of helping with a driving problem) It also seems to me that the kicking issue might be more ‘safely’ ha! solved under saddle.
I’m not willing to sell him. One, my partner adores him, secondly I can keep him as a pasture puff, third: this is what would have to be disclosed: kicker, needs experienced handler, whip shy, not broke/green broke to ride, prone to choke, with a healed severe tear to the right hind DDF tendon… I wouldn’t buy that! (the physical issues occurred after I ended up with him, I did not know about the kicking habit just that it was clear he had no sense of personal space and was pushy, buyer beware!) If he is a pasture puff for his days, that is OK, but it seems a bit of a shame since every time one goes out he is there hoping that you will give him attention.