Using hoof dressing to prevent cracks?

[Harley_s_mom]

My daughter’s show jumper developed a crack in a front hoof last summer. It was very superficial, and has since grown out, but it caused us some concern at the time. He is barefoot and we’d like to keep it that way. We got him a pair of Easy Boots this year, in the hopes that they will protect his hooves from the impact of jumping and general riding. But I think (and my trimmer agrees) that it was probably caused by quickly changing environmental conditions. Spring here is very snowy and wet, until one day, when everything dries up very fast. He is on a dirt/sand paddock at the moment until the pastures have grown up enough for him to get out, and we’ve had 10 days of rain, followed by several days of sun and high wind so I can see things drying up very fast again. In a few days, we go from significant mud to desert-dry ground.

My question is about hoof dressing. I have a couple of kinds I can use, and was thinking of applying them in the hopes that his hooves wouldn’t dry up quite as fast. Overall, he has great hooves, and is on a very good diet (I have my hay analyzed and then have an equine nutritionist advise me on what I need to add, I also have him on Elite Performance hemp oil). My trimmer, who is trained in barefoot trimming, does not like the topical hoof dressings since she feels they block pores. But I feel it’s like putting skin cream on my dry face after being out in the wind all day. It just feels good. What are your thoughts? If you do use hoof dressing, what are some brands you might recommend?

[Guilherme]

Hoof tissue is keratanized hair. It’s like a bundle of hollow, plastic straws. The only way you can put moisture into a straw like that is from the top or the bottom. Good nutrition puts in moisture from the top. A hoof dressing will protect the “glue” that holds the bundle of straws together. In that sense using one is a Good Thing. Of course you want a quality product suited to the needs of your horse.

If your problem is excessive moisture (a common problem in the East) they you will have a different need that insufficient moisture (a common problem in the West). And in either area you can have wet/dry seasons that might mean you need two different products.

I do not believe your “trimmer’s” concerns are valid. Yes, the hoof dressing WILL block moisture. That’s what it’s designed to do. Either block it outbound or inbound. Or both.

Ask your vet, do some Googling, get a second opinion from a farrier, etc. Then make a choice and give it a try.

Good luck in your project.

G.

[Scribbler]

In general I think cracks are going to result from poor trims or poor diet. You want to make sure he is getting enough protein, biotin, and copper and zinc, and not too much iron. I don’t know if hay plus hemp will do it.

Perhaps you could post photos of his feet.

Also what do you mean by a crack? A vertical crack starting at the coronet band? A vertical crack starting at the ground? Or just chipping of the edge of his hoof?

A hoof dressing can’t hurt but won’t fix underlying issues.

You might want to look up Pete Rameys website and FB group on barefoot hoof health and trimming

[Dr_Doolittle]

Alas, hoof dressings are ineffective - at best! If you want to strengthen the hoof, Keratex or Venice Turpentine applied to the SOLE (not frog) and around the edges of the wall. Some people swear by putting a counter-irritant on the coronary band to stimulate growth - but there isn’t hard and fast proof that this works.

Here’s a good article that should clarify things:

https://ker.com/equinews/hoof-dressi…armful-humbug/

Good nutrition, regular exercise and skilled farriery are the ways to grow a good hoof AND maintain it. Cracks need to grow out, obviously; if he has good hoof quality to begin with, focus on a balanced trim and let nature take its course. (Sometimes cracks result from flares that aren’t addressed, the white line will stretch and cause a weakness or defect, causing the crack. Something to be aware of.)

And to the nutrition thing, what @Scribbler said above. Copper, zinc, and biotin are key - especially if there is iron in the feed or forage.

[JB]

@Harley's mom

My daughter’s show jumper developed a crack in a front hoof last summer. It was very superficial, and has since grown out, but it caused us some concern at the time. He is barefoot and we’d like to keep it that way. We got him a pair of Easy Boots this year, in the hopes that they will protect his hooves from the impact of jumping and general riding. But I think (and my trimmer agrees) that it was probably caused by quickly changing environmental conditions. Spring here is very snowy and wet, until one day, when everything dries up very fast.

wet wet wet DRY is really hard on feet. The feet get water-logged and soft, and then suddenly the are on “concrete”. Things tend to chip and crack a lot more easily. Sometimes you can preempt the cracks and chips by refreshing the roll very frequently, but that would be on you, as opposed to the trimmer coming out weekly (well, unless you wanted to pay for that LOL)

He is on a dirt/sand paddock at the moment until the pastures have grown up enough for him to get out, and we’ve had 10 days of rain, followed by several days of sun and high wind so I can see things drying up very fast again. In a few days, we go from significant mud to desert-dry ground.

Does he have a stall available? If you can get his feet drying out for a few hours, then coating with something like Keratex Hoof Hardener or Tuff Stuff might help the transition. You’d want to apply every couple days at least.

I honestly would just make sure a good fresh trim is done and have the trimmer show you how to refresh the roll every few days if necessary.

[firefoot]

Yes, diet and environment are the biggest factors with feet, along with conformation. If the horse is going well, has a balanced diet, has a good balance and trim on the foot, and is cared for in a way that addresses environmental issues, then you’re doing well!

If you think the feet are too soft from the rain, I would recommend venice turpentine over Keratex. Turpentine is sticky and messy but really nice for toughening up feet.

If you think the feet are too hard from dry ground, a good moisturizer will help, not really your typical hoof dressing but something really moisturizing.

If you are in the middle of these two extremes, which is likely depending on location, I have had great luck with Effol hoof ointments. The one in the green bottle is a really nice basic ointment. I paint it on with a paintbrush. You can do the outside of the hoof wall and the sole. Dover has this. For the summer or when it’s very dry, Effol summer hoof gel is really amazing. I’ve never seen it in the store, I order it online. It is a lovely mix of emollient products that helps keep moisture in the foot without water logging it. I noticed a difference overnight the first time I used it. This product is made with avocado and other oils so it gets liquid pretty quickly – I kept it in the barn and on hot days it was liquid. I just smear it on with my hand. Effol also makes something called Hoof Soft Cream which is a little heavier than the summer hoof gel and more moisturizing than the green ointment. I like this a lot, my horse doesn’t need it but I would recommend it.

I don’t think most general hoof oils or dressings are going to do what you want. They are typically just to make the feet shiny. Try something more emollient and moisturizing. Also, if the horse can come into a stall and dry out for a few hours a day, then have hoof stuff applied, that’d be ideal. Also, paint the feet before bathing, even if it’s just baby oil, it will help keep the feet from taking on excess water.

[SecondInCommand]

I have a horse whose feet I have to be very careful with in wet weather. Keratex Hoof Gel has been a gem for helping keep his feet more impervious to moisture.

https://www.smartpakequine.com/pt/keratex-hoof-gel-8310

If I’m understanding your issue correctly, the transition from a water logged hoof to a very dry environment is what’s causing your issue? If I were in your shoes, I’d be trying to manage it by not letting the hoof get so water logged in the first place, rather than by trying to extend the moist period. Hard, dry hooves are a good thing, so long as they’re not brittle.

[2DogsFarm]

Assuming the crack is vertical & begins at the ground, my farrier taught me to use a rasp horizontally across the top of the crack to make a very shallow groove that prevents the crack from going farther.

[Harley_s_mom]

Thanks for all the great replies all!

So, regarding nutrition, he gets much more than hay and hemp oil. As I said, he has a customized diet of supplements and minerals done to complete the nutritional value found in his hay after a complete hay analysis. Specifically, he gets biotin, zinc, copper, vitamin A, vitamin E and selenium (our soil is selenium deficient, but iron rich so he gets no additional iron in anything). I add slippery elm bark (for digestive issues and to help with runny stool in the winter) and hemp oil (for his joints, skin, etc.). And of course salt. These are fed twice a day with beet pulp (molasses free) and a few hay cubes (timothy only) for palatability. His hay and grass are a mix, but predominantly timothy. He is 20, and his metabolic profile suggested he is at risk for becoming IR (though he is not there yet), so I am avoiding anything with sugar or high NSC. He wears a grazing muzzle in the spring and on and off as required in the summer since he is an easy keeper.

I do have stalls, but my horses are mostly on full-time turnout year round. He has had respiratory issues in the past, so good air quality is a high priority. I can stall him, I just choose not to. He has access to his stall, however, and does tend to stay in there a lot when it’s muddy out. My pedding is wood pellets which absorb a lot of the excess moisture. While there is mud for a few weeks in the spring, I wouldn’t say that my paddock is anywhere near the worst I’ve seen. There are always dry areas where they can stand and since he is the dominant horse of the herd (and a bit of a wimp in bad weather), that’s usually where he is.

He is trimmed regularly, but yes, I am learning to rasp between trims so you’re right on the ball with this suggestion. His hoof growth accelerates tremendously this time of year, and he requires much more frequent trimming (last summer we got to the point where I was having the trimmer come very 2-3 weeks). This may contribute to his soreness, however, so it’s a delicate balance. I was timid about rasping between trims at first, but my trimmer has been guiding me, and I am doing a trimming workshop in early June so I will feel more confident about it. Currently, I try to rasp his toes once a week just to stay on top of it. I never take a lot off (no nippers), but I figure this will help keep things more consistently balanced.

Also, I took some time to research it, and was a bit discouraged by the fact that a lot of these products include things like alcohol and acetone as ingredients. I can’t see that doing anything but weakening the hoof. Others contain vaseline, which is also not recommended since it blocks pores.

The crack started at the toe and made its way up about 1/3 of the way. My trimmer did notch it, and it didn’t open up further. It has since completely grown out of course. I was just hoping to avoid a re-occurrence. It sounds like I’m doing all I can and that hoof ointments won’t help much. Maybe just keep a close eye on his hooves, and if I see a crack beginning, nip it in the bud. Any other suggestions?

[JB]

@Harley's mom

His hoof growth accelerates tremendously this time of year, and he requires much more frequent trimming (last summer we got to the point where I was having the trimmer come very 2-3 weeks). This may contribute to his soreness, however, so it’s a delicate balance.

If there is enough growth to warrant more frequent trimming, he should not be sore. If he’s sore, it suggests the trims are too aggressive, either because there is not enough to actually trim, or the trim itself is taking too much off. This is a warning flag. Every 2 weeks even for faster Spring growth should rarely warrant more than some touchups, so “trimming” but not TRIMMING, if that makes sense

I was timid about rasping between trims at first, but my trimmer has been guiding me, and I am doing a trimming workshop in early June so I will feel more confident about it. Currently, I try to rasp his toes once a week just to stay on top of it. I never take a lot off (no nippers), but I figure this will help keep things more consistently balanced.

Where are you rasping - from the bottom, or the top/front?

Also, I took some time to research it, and was a bit discouraged by the fact that a lot of these products include things like alcohol and acetone as ingredients. I can’t see that doing anything but weakening the hoof. Others contain vaseline, which is also not recommended since it blocks pores.

Petroleum-based things don’t really “block pores”. but over time they do start degrading the protective outer layer and weaken feet. The alcohol and acetone are for drying things out, though they don’t harden like formaldehyde and turpentine

The crack started at the toe and made its way up about 1/3 of the way. My trimmer did notch it, and it didn’t open up further. It has since completely grown out of course. I was just hoping to avoid a re-occurrence. It sounds like I’m doing all I can and that hoof ointments won’t help much. Maybe just keep a close eye on his hooves, and if I see a crack beginning, nip it in the bud. Any other suggestions?

Keep the outer walls rolled. And make very sure the base trim is actually correct. Toes that are even a little long after a trim, just get longer and the foot wants to try to work on self-trimming, which does not always benefit the hoof.

[MzCarol]

@Harley's mom

Thanks for all the great replies all!

So, regarding nutrition, he gets much more than hay and hemp oil. As I said, he has a customized diet of supplements and minerals done to complete the nutritional value found in his hay after a complete hay analysis. Specifically, he gets biotin, zinc, copper, vitamin A, vitamin E and selenium (our soil is selenium deficient, but iron rich so he gets no additional iron in anything). I add slippery elm bark (for digestive issues and to help with runny stool in the winter) and hemp oil (for his joints, skin, etc.). And of course salt. These are fed twice a day with beet pulp (molasses free) and a few hay cubes (timothy only) for palatability. His hay and grass are a mix, but predominantly timothy. He is 20, and his metabolic profile suggested he is at risk for becoming IR (though he is not there yet), so I am avoiding anything with sugar or high NSC. He wears a grazing muzzle in the spring and on and off as required in the summer since he is an easy keeper.

I do have stalls, but my horses are mostly on full-time turnout year round. He has had respiratory issues in the past, so good air quality is a high priority. I can stall him, I just choose not to. He has access to his stall, however, and does tend to stay in there a lot when it’s muddy out. My pedding is wood pellets which absorb a lot of the excess moisture. While there is mud for a few weeks in the spring, I wouldn’t say that my paddock is anywhere near the worst I’ve seen. There are always dry areas where they can stand and since he is the dominant horse of the herd (and a bit of a wimp in bad weather), that’s usually where he is.

He is trimmed regularly, but yes, I am learning to rasp between trims so you’re right on the ball with this suggestion. His hoof growth accelerates tremendously this time of year, and he requires much more frequent trimming (last summer we got to the point where I was having the trimmer come very 2-3 weeks). This may contribute to his soreness, however, so it’s a delicate balance. I was timid about rasping between trims at first, but my trimmer has been guiding me, and I am doing a trimming workshop in early June so I will feel more confident about it. Currently, I try to rasp his toes once a week just to stay on top of it. I never take a lot off (no nippers), but I figure this will help keep things more consistently balanced.

Also, I took some time to research it, and was a bit discouraged by the fact that a lot of these products include things like alcohol and acetone as ingredients. I can’t see that doing anything but weakening the hoof. Others contain vaseline, which is also not recommended since it blocks pores.

The crack started at the toe and made its way up about 1/3 of the way. My trimmer did notch it, and it didn’t open up further. It has since completely grown out of course. I was just hoping to avoid a re-occurrence. It sounds like I’m doing all I can and that hoof ointments won’t help much. Maybe just keep a close eye on his hooves, and if I see a crack beginning, nip it in the bud. Any other suggestions?

The crack started at the toe - that right there - that simple statement - tells you everything you need to know. The answer is…drumroll…the toes are too long and the horse is self-trimming which is causing the crack to progress up the hoof.

Here is a super way to find out for sure. Find the true apex of the frog (top of the triangle towards the toe). If the apex is pointy that tells you the frog is stretched - the apex is authentically rounded. The pointy part can be knifed back to find the line that indicates the true apex. Once that is found, go forward of that line about 3/4 - 1in. Draw a line perpendicular to the frog from pilar to pilar. That line is the breakover line - where that particular horse should break over when it moves. Whatever is forward of that line is DEAD tissue and should be rasped/nipped away.

Your farrier sounds very old school because notching is very old style footwork and doesn’t work in the long term. What works is to keep the toes the length they are supposed to be and to keep the horse breaking over at the proper spot.

I, too, have barefoot horses - 4 of them - one of them a jumper. My horses, too, are outside mostly 24/7. My horses have never taken a lame step (knock on wood) or cracked a hoof. During the rapid growth season I trim every two weeks to keep balance.

A really great supplement we used to grow out a horrid crack that a horse we bought came with was Focus HF - fabulous stuff. We grew out an entire hoof in 4 months and he’s been great ever since.

During the wet season we put venice turpentine on the hoof bottoms only after a good picking and then put sawdust over top of the turpentine. It helps protect from all that moisture and keeps the feet nice and hard (you want nice and hard horse feet).

[JB]

The true apex of the frog is where it joins the sole. The frog itself can be overgrown, and be pointy or rounded in either situation. But yes, the tip of the frog may need to be trimmed back in small bits to uncover where the frog joins the sole - that’s the true apex.

Be careful about saying everything in front of that line is dead and should go. That’s not really the case, and just removing everything in front of that can be disastrous. The breakover, and the leading edge of the toe, are not the same thing.

To help clarify that, here’s a picture of a mapped foot (using the ELPO mapping)

You see the horizontal line from pillar to pillar, which is the breakover. BUT, important but, the materai in front of that line is NOT dead and should not be trimmed/rasped away. There may need to be a rocker put on, maybe some of the toe is long enough to need to be nipped/rasped back some, but as some point you cannot and should not remove more material in the backwards direction or you will be in live tissue. This image shows a balanced foot. The material in front of the breakover line is live structure.

This page has the ELPO info
http://www.lamenessprevention.org/site_page.cfm?pk_association_webpage_menu=6600&pk_association_webpage=13307

And here’s the entire mapping protocol
https://s3.amazonaws.com/amo_hub_content/Association1287/files/ProtocolStudyGuidePack.pdf

[Harley_s_mom]

@JB I am rasping in both directions (with the softer side of the rasp so I don’t do any damage – yes, I am timid because I am just learning and would rather not take too much off when I’m not 100% certain). In other words, I rasp from the bottom and a little bit from the top to get a bevel edge. But I may be doing it wrong because again, I am only doing the trimming workshop in June.

I agree that his toes are long. And I agree that the frequent trims may have caused some soreness. But we’re between a rock and a hard place because without frequent trims, he quickly gets overgrown.

I did a hoof dissection clinic and chopped up a dead hoof. The first thing I did was slice the toe off to look at the tissue. am well aware of the importance of the blood vessels and live tissue, which is why I hesitate to take too much off… but hopefully as I do it more and more frequently, I will develop an eye for what works. Right now, we are trying to find the sweet spot between too much and not enough.

I do have complete faith in my trimmer. And honestly, where I live, there are no other options (only farriers who all say the same - put shoes on him). But I am trying to educate myself so I can do some of it myself between trims.

Also, it’s the first time he’s ever had a crack to my knowledge. But I know quite well that prevention is key in these things. Once a crack has formed, it just has to grow out. I am trying to get ahead of the game by exploring other options that might help prevent future cracks, and thought that I might be able to help with the transition from wet to dry, but it doesn’t sound like there are any topicals that will help with that. I’ve already addressed the nutritional aspects, and have already explained how he has accelerated growth this time of year, and how I’m learning to rasp a bit between trims myself. There’s a learning curve, but I will do everything I can to help him stay fit and healthy for many years. Besides, I like learning.

Another thing that concerns me is that he has uneven front hooves. One is wider than the other. We correct it a little at trims, but my trimmer assures me it’s normal, like people who have different sized feet. Is this normal? Or is it a sign that he is carrying his weight differently from side to side (which again, we all do to some extent I suppose)?

[JB]

@Harley's mom

@JB

I agree that his toes are long. And I agree that the frequent trims may have caused some soreness. But we’re between a rock and a hard place because without frequent trims, he quickly gets overgrown.

But still, no. If there’s enough foot to warrant trimming, then a proper trim shouldn’t make him sore. If there’s not enough foot to trim without making him sore, then there shouldn’t be any trimming. Frequency of trimming should not affect soreness. Trim when there is enough foot to trim. No trim should make a horse foot-sore

[quoteI do have complete faith in my trimmer.
[/quote]

Except…you say the toes are too long, and the trimmings are making him sore.

Another thing that concerns me is that he has uneven front hooves. One is wider than the other. We correct it a little at trims, but my trimmer assures me it’s normal, like people who have different sized feet. Is this normal? Or is it a sign that he is carrying his weight differently from side to side (which again, we all do to some extent I suppose)?

It depends. Yes, many horses have uneven feet, one is lower and wider, one is more upright and narrower.

Can you get some pictures? Use these guidelines:
Good Hoof Photos - How to take Good Hoof Photos

[Harley_s_mom]

@JB

But still, no. If there’s enough foot to warrant trimming, then a proper trim shouldn’t make him sore. If there’s not enough foot to trim without making him sore, then there shouldn’t be any trimming. Frequency of trimming should not affect soreness. Trim when there is enough foot to trim. No trim should make a horse foot-sore

[quoteI do have complete faith in my trimmer.

Except…you say the toes are too long, and the trimmings are making him sore.

It depends. Yes, many horses have uneven feet, one is lower and wider, one is more upright and narrower.

Can you get some pictures? Use these guidelines:
Good Hoof Photos - How to take Good Hoof Photos

[/QUOTE]

Yes, I will get pics today! A couple of other details I haven’t yet mentioned: it is entirely possible that what I interpreted as “soreness” was not in the hoof at all, but in the shoulder. I had a vet and my trimmer look at his slight limp (most said it was barely perceptible, and some people couldn’t even see it, but my daughter and I see it clear as day), and no one could say for sure where it was coming from. So I am having an equine chiropractor work on him as well, because at 20, he is definitely going to be somewhat crooked. I’ve also purchased hoof boots (Easyboot gloves) in case it really is soreness from hard ground. And finally, I would add that he never gets chips on his toes so I don’t think he is “self-trimming”.

Will try to get pics today, but he is due for a trim. I think we’re at about 5 weeks, and this time of year, that’s a bit long.

Thanks for taking the time to help!

[S1969]

@Harley's mom

[USER=“101277”]I agree that his toes are long. And I agree that the frequent trims may have caused some soreness. But we’re between a rock and a hard place because without frequent trims, he quickly gets overgrown.

Agree with JB that these statements don’t go together. If the trim is correct, the toes aren’t long. If the horse needs trimming, a correct trim won’t make it sore. If it doesn’t need trimming, the toes wouldn’t be long…or, at least, not every 3 weeks…obviously almost all horses will tend to have imbalance issues the longer they are not trimmed to correct them.

Something is not right here.

[Guilherme]

@S1969

Agree with JB that these statements don’t go together. If the trim is correct, the toes aren’t long. If the horse needs trimming, a correct trim won’t make it sore. If it doesn’t need trimming, the toes wouldn’t be long…or, at least, not every 3 weeks…obviously almost all horses will tend to have imbalance issues the longer they are not trimmed to correct them.

Something is not right here.

BINGO!

G.

[cosmo_momo]

Keratex, keratex, keratex! And keep the toes beveled if barefoot. I don’t use any kind of hoof dressings anymore except for olive oil on show days. I plan on posting a personal experience story about cracks on my own horse once they have fully grown out. I pulled his shoes about 9 months ago, the cracks went all the way up to the coronary band and right at a year I think they will have grown out completely. Keratex, pulling shoes, and keeping his hooves beveled are 3 of the 4 things I’ve done to solve the issue.

[EmilyM]

I’ve had great luck with perfect products’ Regen-X (i think ) hoof dressing for shelly and cracking feet. REgen-X has anti bacterial and antifungal properties. It is like a cream. This is assuming the horse is properly trimmed and fed. i had a heck of a time last summer due to the wet conditions. this stuff really helped.