I’ve seen people talking about how some saddles have a curvy tree and some have a flatter tree and that the type you need depends on your horses back. But is this something that is learned through trying on saddles, or is it possible to look at a saddle and visualize what the tree inside looks like?
I understand the curvature of the trees…but when looking at the whole, finished saddle it’s hard for me to guess the shape. How do you guys do it (if you can?)
The shape of the tree inside is reflected by the shape of the panel outside.
My saddle fitter does back tracings cut out as pieces of cardboard. We can turn a saddle upside down and place these tracings against the panel and decide if the saddle could be a good fit for the horse.
Flat VS curved is always relative to a given horse or another saddle. You can look at two saddles from the bottom and decide if one is flatter or curvier or they are about the same.
Too flat causes bridging meaning a gap under the rider. Slight bridging can be fixed by reflocking. Too curved makes the saddle rock and cannot be fixed.
Having tracings is the best way to judge how well the saddle might fit in the absence of the actual horse.
After a while you will get used to the proportions that fit your horse and be able to say “that saddle will never fit him.”
Honestly it is really hard. Even today, I can not always predict what the shape of the tree is with the panels on it. There are clue, but visuals on saddles can be very misleading.
That was what I thought but then when I start looking at wool flocked panels I get confused…how do you know if the curve is just the wool being fluffy or if it’s the shape?
This is what sparked the question: https://trumbullmtn.com/2011/10/more-than-width-part-two-tree-shape/
The first saddle they show that they say is curvier appears to have a more curved seat (and same with the jumping saddle), but isn’t the seat shape rider preference too?
You are confusing the seat shape and the panel shape.
The shape of the seat does not correlate to the shape of the underside of the panels. You can have a saddle that has a high pommel and cantle, as currently fashionable in dressage. Or you can have a more open more minimal seat like on older saddles. And either saddle can be curvier or flatter underneath.
So don’t look at the seat. You need to turn the saddle upside down and look at the panels. You need to look at the curve from front to back.
Yes, the panels are flocked and can be stuffed up more or flattened and old. But in general the panel follows the shape of the tree. The panel cannot compensate very much for the tree being wrong for the horse.
You obviously can’t tell anything from looking at a sales photo of a saddle and the seat shape is no guide to the tree shape on the underside. You need to see the saddle from underneath.
Are you able to describe how the back tracings are done w cardboard? I’m trying to visualize that (sounds like a fabulous idea!) and I just can’t. Thank you.
I don’t know about how Scribbler’s were done, but when I’ve done them, I used a tool (or just an old wire) to conform to the shape of the horse where the tree points would need to fit, then traced it onto lightweight posterboard, and cut it out.
Yes, my saddle fitter uses chalk to mark off two inch increments along the back. Then she has a flexible drafting curve that she uses to take the measurements. She then lays these on a special grid printed light card stock and traces the line and then cuts it out. I end up with both pieces of card, so I have one that I can pop into the bottom of the saddle to check the panel shape, and another that I can pop onto the horses back to make sure she hasn’t outgrown her last fitting.
My fitter does vertical tracings back from the wither at 2 inch intervals. Then she does a horizontal tracing of the back under the panel on each side. Then she does one horizontally for the actual backbone.
This sounds like something anyone could do but actually I lack the patience and dexterity to do this with her accuracy.
I then have the tracings to go saddle shopping and can even send copies or photos to vendors. The fitter will take the tracings home with her when she reflocks my saddles.
It has really demystified saddle fit for me and lets me cooperate with her usefully. Also I’ve gotten better at rigging up shims if needed.
Thank you-that is really cool. I’ve never seen a saddle fitter do anything like that.
How do you buy saddles online if you can’t judge the curve from a sale photo?
Couldn’t you estimate the general shape of it by knowing that the stirrup bar is attached to the point+the area of the tree above it and then looking that point compared to the edge of the tree behind the saddle flap?
I know that dressage saddles sometimes have built up seats and that jump saddles can be low profile, but I’ve looked at brands that are known to be curvy and I’ve looked at saddles made for flat-backed horses and in every one, the curvy saddles seem to have a more built up pommel than the ones made for flat horses.
You can’t tell the underside of the saddle by the seat. Even my excellent saddle fitter cannot do this.
How to buy online? Ask to see photos of the underside of the tree. Send copies of back tracings and ask to see a photo of your tracing against the panel. Become familiar with which brands tend to fit your horse. Deal with a knowledgable consignment shop that can give you accurate advice on rge saddles. Do a lot of trials and returns. Some mix of all this.
The same brand and model of saddle is often available Semi custom with a deep or shallow seat. The surface that touches the horse remains the same.
Are there consignment shops that will work with the tracing if you send them?
By pictures of the panels, do you mean with the saddle flipped over completely or do you mean a picture where you’re looking down the spine of it? I looked at some pictures of saddles that are flipped but its hard to determine the curvature from them.
Also, do most brands build all their saddles on the same tree or does each saddle model they make have a different tree?
In my experience most saddle brands use the same tree for all their models unless they specify differently. Some brands say they have a cob, a draft, and a TB tree for instance. That’s why one brand usually cannot be made to fit all horses.
It is indeed hard to judge anything from photos. I would think a quality consignment shop would work with your tracings. Some actually have instructions to do tracings.
After a while you learn what brands are a good bet for your horse. For instance, I took back tracings for my big Paint to a good travelling consignment shop that specialized in high end French foam jump saddles. It became obvious she was just not going to fit in any of them, so that let me rule out a lot of brands. The seller knew her saddles and obviously was motivated to make a sale, so I tended to believe her. On the other hand, Passier and County fit her well.
You will learn as you go. Getting useful feedback from knowledgeable people is important.
Remember too that the front to back horizontal curve is important but so is the vertical drape. Everyone pays attention to this at the withers but it matters all the way back. Panels can be too steep or too flared for proper contact all along the back.
By submitting your email, you agree to our Terms of Service and Privacy Policy. You may also receive promotional emails from The Chronicle of the Horse. You can opt out at any time.
For Customers
Company
Terms of Use
